Formwork for tracks - options, possibilities, limitations
We finally managed to acquire a suitable site in all respects outside the city, to begin construction of a house and outbuildings, and also to improve the territory as a whole. It does not matter if there is a place for seasonal arrivals in the whole family or permanent housing here, the main thing is to create a cosiness not only in the house, but also on the site. So, in addition to planting trees and flowers, it is worthwhile to think about where the paths will run and what coverage they will have. But we will be consistent, first of all we must choose a suitable formwork for tracks. In addition, pegs of up to 50 centimeters in length, as well as stripes of plastic to form thermal seams, are necessary for marking up, and subsequently for secure fixation of the track liner stoppers.
Given that the formwork must be strong, capable of withstanding the pressure of the concrete layer embedded in it, it is not recommended to make restrictive shields to form a path of thin plastic. Therefore the most simple variant - usual boards. Select soft wood, not thicker than 25 millimeters, so that you can create smooth bends, hard boards will break rather than bend. In order to slightly bend a thick board, you will need a transversal notch( half the thickness of the board) in several places, with an interval of about 12-15 centimeters. Fixing pegs are best nailed to the wooden formwork to avoid its displacement.
Formwork for paving tiles - marking and everything that follows from it
It is better to abandon natural trails on your site at once, during the rainy season and during the melting of snow, the mud will be impassable, so we stop on such materials as concrete, asphalt, tile, natural or artificial stone and( do not be surprised) tree. Choose any material, regardless of your preferences, the marking of the track is always carried out according to the same principle, whether it is formwork for paving slabs or for ordinary concrete pouring. According to the rules, it is necessary first to draw up a topographic plan for the plot on millimeter paper, drawing on it the contours of future tracks. Then, along the section in the place where it is supposed to lay the tracks, we stretch the two strings, at right angles to each other with the common outgoing point( the peg).This we will have a kind of coordinate scale, from the "zero mark" we begin to count equal intervals on both cords, having drawn the area outlined by them, into squares. Now you can safely transfer from the plan to the plot a picture of the path, marking it on the ground with pegs connected by cords. It is possible and easier, "by eye," but the accuracy with respect to the width of the track will not be the same.
Further it is recommended to remove the vegetative layer on the bounded peg strip, in other words, to cut off the turf, which can later be used to form the landscape. Having freed the earth from the vegetation cover, and having received a shallow trench at the same time, lay geotextiles on its bottom, and we pour sand onto it with a layer of up to half of the depth. We moisten the sand cushion and we ram it with a plate compactor or a hand roller. Pour a thin layer of small gravel, level with sand on the ground and again rammer, regularly wetting the surface of our substrate for the path. We install the formwork using marking pegs and adding new if necessary. Now you can go directly to the pouring of the road surface, for the basis take concrete, as the most easily fabricated material( with asphalt fuss is not an example more).
Work with the formwork until the track
is ready. Even after the space is covered with boards or other shielding panels with concrete, it is still very far from the time when the formwork is removed. Consider all options, and as it happens, the first will be the boards. It does not matter if the path is straight as an arrow or it winds between the hills, which may well abound in the plot, it is necessary to take into account the need for a slope of the cover for draining rainwater or melt water. Ideal will be a difference of 1 centimeter per 1 meter of the width of the track. To ensure that the concrete does not crack, every 1.5 meters is recommended to create deformation seams by a thin plastic separator that is flush with the formwork( siding can be used).
If on the hardening of concrete you expect to remove the separators, then grease them with pre-solidol or something similar. However, you can leave the separator in concrete, without any consequences.
If you are planning to lay a path out of stone, pour a dry concrete mixture into the formwork and lay cobblestones in it, then pour water. The stones will remain clean, and the moistened composition will soon grab, firmly taking the paving stones. Similarly, you can lay the tile. Actually, concrete itself can be turned into an imitation of the paving of the path. Enough in a day, when the mixture has already sufficiently hardens, draw even grooves in the surface of the coating. Over time, the grooves will be clogged by the soil, and the impression is created that individual slabs are laid on the track.
Precisely the same effect can be achieved with a special ready-made form for pouring the track with concrete. This is a sort of finished, non-collapsible formwork with several jumpers that separate the space inside the mold into regular shape cells. Stowed and flooded with concrete mix, this device as it forms a tile directly on the path. Unlike the usual formwork, which is disassembled not earlier than on the fifth day, the mold rises from slightly frozen concrete after 20-30 minutes, after which it is stacked nearby, and the process of pouring is repeated. As you can see, there are a lot of ways to create a track, but in no case can not do without formwork.