The instruction on manufacturing of an arch from gypsum cardboard the hands

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Quite often in apartments there is such a defect in the ceiling - in adjacent rooms the levels of slabs overlap. For whatever reason, the matter is different, but it does happen. For example, in the corridor and in the living room. Aligning this joint on the ceiling with putty does not always give the expected effect. In such cases, installing the arch is an excellent solution to the problem. And the flaws in the ceiling are not noticeable, and at the same time modern and effective. Accordingly, the doorway widens, which in the dimensions of our apartments is also attractive.

The most economical option - to make an arch of gypsum board. With a serious approach to this business, you can do it yourself.

Types of arches

  • classic( when the arc has the correct radius);
  • arch on the top is straight, and rounded at the corners;
  • the arc in the center has a rise( varying radius);The
  • arc is a twisted ellipse.

Consider the simplest option - the first.

Stages of operation

The appearance of the

is determined First, from what height should the rounding start, secondly - its radius, and thirdly - how much the lower edge of the arch should be spaced from the ceiling. All this is decided on the spot, as you like. It is best to draw a sketch of the future design, to think how the arch will "look" in the end. Who owns special computer programs, such a model can be depicted on the monitor. If not, then there is paper and a pencil.

You should accurately measure all distances and transfer them to paper. With the help of the compass and the stock of school knowledge( including the scale), you can easily determine the radius.

Prepared by the doorway

We are working on puttying and plastering surfaces. As a result, they should all be as level as possible. The arch structure is based on a metal profile. It is clear that he will not lie flat on the wall and ceiling, if they are "wavy".




Marking "on the ground"

is done The first step is to find out whether the opposite walls are parallel, whether there are right angles between the walls and the ceiling. With the help of a building level, this is not difficult to do. In the construction allowed some technological errors, but the arch should be strictly symmetrical on both sides. Otherwise, the discrepancy will immediately strike the eye.

Profiles and workpieces are installed.

. Horizontal profiles are installed on the ceiling( or at the top of the doorway, if the floor joist is above).It is necessary to understand that drywall will be attached to them, and it has a certain thickness. At this distance, you should retreat "inward," otherwise the arch will protrude from the wall. And the distance between the profiles is chosen arbitrarily. It determines the width of the arch span. Also fixed and vertical profiles, starting from the top. Their length is chosen on the basis of the origin of the bend of the arch.

From gipsokartona cut billets( 2 pcs.), Which determine the "bend" of the arch. One of them is temporarily put on the installation site and is slightly fixed. On this "landmark" are prepared pieces of PP-profile( metal), to which later these parts and will be fastened. Naturally, such blanks will have different lengths, so it is necessary to mark where it will be installed. Since we have two blanks on both sides of the arch, the pieces of the PP profile are cut off in duplicate.

The installed "landmark" is removed and the cut-off plates are attached to the horizontal profiles. This is done with self-tapping screws - quickly and reliably.

The overhead profile of the PNP is being prepared. In the section, it looks like the letter "P".Every 5 - 8 cm on both sides( on the legs of the letter) cuts are made, to the base. The result is a kind of "snake".It needs to be folded and unfolded several times to give some flexibility.

"Snakes" are attached to profiles. For the correct installation, you must again put in place a "landmark" of plasterboard. If the previously screwed strips are longer than necessary, they are cut off. As a result, there must be a complete fit of the "snake" under the radius of the future arch. Simultaneously, notes are made on the details, so as not to get bogged down later, when fastening the "snakes".

Naturally, this work is done on both sides, therefore, "benchmarks" are put in turn. At the ends of the "snakes" the segments obtained during the "cutting" are also cut to the desired length. None of the metal parts should protrude beyond the edges of the plasterboard.

Fastening "snakes" and mounting

First remove the blank from gypsum board, and then again with the help of self-tapping screws "snake" screwed to the profile. Here it is necessary to show increased attention. It is desirable that someone help and control the smoothness of the installation of parts.

Installation of gypsum boards on profiles. These figured parts of the sheets are also fastened with screws. The recommended distance between them is 15 - 20 cm.

A strip is being prepared which will be laid from below. The billet should be well moistened and put "on the bend" - how to bend the leaf, I told. The edges must rest on supports, and the necessary cargo is placed in the center. It is necessary to achieve that the strip is bent to the desired radius.

Well bent and a few more wet strip is put in place and fixed with screws. Here the distance between them is selected on the order of 5 cm.

make an arch

Since the gypsum board has a thickness, joints with the wall are formed at the lower ends of the sidewalls of the arch. Therefore, stripes are cut from the same drywall. Length - from the bottom edge of the arch to the floor. After that, they "put" in place. Experts advise to use "Perlfix"( a mixture of mounting).

Board

If you cut a hole in the upper band of the plasterboard, then you can install special arched fixtures. They come in different diameters. As the lamps are economical LED.And you can put it in different ways. Or one above( centered), or one in the center, and two on the sides. The inside of the arch turns out to be hollow, so the supply wire will not be visible. Next to the arch( or in any other place) put a switch. Such lighting in the evening will well replace the top bright light of a chandelier or sconce.

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