What is the use of the caulking log, how to do it yourself and what materials to use

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Houses made of wood have always been attractive to a private builder. Corresponding materials - round logs, bars of various processing - are increasingly used in individual construction, largely due to not only the availability, but also a large range of products on sale. Wooden houses are distinguished by a mass of advantages, of which a lot has been written.

At the same time, they have some drawbacks, one of which is the formation of gaps between the "details".Partly this is due to the fact that in practice it is impossible to provide an absolutely flat workpiece surface, and sometimes there are deviations of the parameter values ​​(cross-section, width) along the entire length. Although this is less true for materials that have undergone special processing( for example, a calibrated log).

But the main reason for the "depressurization" of surfaces constructed from wooden parts is material shrinkage. Even blanks that have been heat treated contain a certain percentage of moisture. Depending on the technology, it can be in the range of 8 to 20%( with a higher rate in construction is not recommended).

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Naturally, wood, "freed" from water, changes its volume, therefore, the geometry of blanks is also changing. Therefore, avoiding the appearance of cracks is impossible - it's just a matter of time.

Understanding what processes take place inside the material, the goal pursued by the owners becomes clear, producing the caulking log - fix the formed cracks( gaps) between the elements of the structure.

This task should be handled responsibly. It requires accuracy, scrupulousness, strict observance of all rules. Not for nothing in the recent past such professionals were valued in weight of gold.

Caulking is recommended to be carried out in time:

  • immediately after erection of the log;
  • after 6 months;
  • in a year and a half after the completion of construction( depends on the degree of humidity of the wood used);
  • further - as needed.

Tools

  • the kitten( rubber);
  • hammer;
  • spatula for caulking. They have a different shape and thickness of the working part, since the cracks in the walls differ in their dimensions: a broken one, a "road worker", a curve, a set one;
  • chisel.




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Natural Materials

  • Moss;
  • hemp;
  • felt;
  • tow;
  • linen( thin strips of fabric).

All of them are ecologically friendly, but they have common drawbacks - a short shelf life, the ability to absorb moisture. In addition, they are for some reason loved by insects, which can settle in entire colonies.

Recently, the demand for jute fiber, on the basis of which the insulation is made. Even in damp conditions, the material absorbs no more than 1/5 of the moisture. In addition, it differs enviable strength, hence, and serves a long time.

Not to be confused with jute felt! He is very "fond of" a mole, and besides, he is prone to putrefaction.

Another not less attractive material - lnovatin( compressed dust, waste products of flax fabrics) can be noted.

Artificial materials

  • materials based on polyethylene foam and mineral wool;
  • grouts, which have different compositions.

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Ways of caulking

"In a set"

In fact, this is a caulking of large gaps with strands of insulation material. They are rolled up in a ball and with the help of a caulk( tool) or chisel( the "ball" is gradually unwound) all the voids formed between the blanks are tightly sealed.

"In tension"

The difference is that the filling of the cavity is done in rows, with separate twists of the insulation. Then a tourniquet is twisted from it, which is clogged from above, along the entire length of the slit.

In Scandinavian countries use this technique. The slots are sealed with mineral wool, and fix it at the place of packing with a cord made of polyethylene foam. However, this technology requires careful adjustment of the logs, since the seams should be as possible already.

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With the help of special formulations

Some can be prepared by yourself. As ingredients, clay, sand, cement are used. Water does not absorb these grouts, but they do not differ in elasticity. Therefore, in the process of shrinkage of wood will be destroyed, and the caulk will have to be done more often.

Special sealants are also sold for sealing gaps, usually on a polymer base. They are more convenient because they are somewhat more elastic than "cement" materials.

1 kg of sealant( for wood) will cost approximately 275 - 350 rubles.

It should be noted that not all "welcome" caulk with the use of similar compounds. The main argument is that they do not allow the wood to "breathe".With this, you can argue, as it is just about sealing the slots, and not about processing the entire surface of the wall.

When choosing a material, you should be guided by its estimated flow rate, which depends on the type of joints, the density of the adjacent logs( timber).Naturally, using a pack is a cheaper option, but it is not always convenient to hold a caulk.

Conclusion - you need to take into account the structural features and quality of installation work.

The question of the advisability of self-holding caulk is largely dependent on the availability of time and experience. If it is decided to attract specialists, then it is necessary to provide additional expenses.

What is the value of the work:

  • total area of ​​the machined surfaces;
  • type of blanks used for the erection of the house, as well as the degree of their primary processing( surface, thermal);
  • number of crowns and methods of corner joints of elements.

Several averaged data:

  • excavation of the old insulation from the cracks - from 23 rubles / m;
  • caulk( without the cost of material) on one side of the logs: flax - from 48 rubles / mp;lnnovatinom - from 70 rubles / mp;timber - from 60 rubles per meter;
  • surface impregnation of joints - from 12 rub / m.p.

Practical advice

  1. frame In order to avoid skewing the structure, you do not need to process all of its walls in turn. The caulk is rounded, along the whole perimeter, from the bottom upwards.
  1. Qualitatively executed work increases the overall height of the house by about 10 - 15 cm. This should be taken into account even at the design stage( in particular, when determining the options for laying utilities).
  1. When laying a frame insulation is stacked between rows. It is necessary to provide for the subsequent caulking. Therefore, the material must be laid with the expectation that before the cut of the wall there should be free space( 30-40 mm).This will allow you to lay the material in a qualitative way when closing the slots.

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