The device of a floor in the frame house - features of designing and installation

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The structure of the floor in the frame house is somewhat different from the usual methods of construction. Frame houses belong to prefabricated structures, and the stage of floor construction often follows immediately after the erection of the foundation, and after that the skeleton of walls and roofs is installed and sewn them up. In this sequence of operations, it is necessary to prevent the wetting of the structures by selecting the weather that is most suitable for construction. In regions with frequent and sudden rains, the sequence of operations is better to change, and the device of the floor in the frame house will be slightly different.

The device of a floor in a frame house

Structure of the floor in the frame house

Requirements for the foundation

The foundation before the beginning of the erection of the floor must be checked for equality of the diagonals and the absence of a difference in height more than 1 cm per meter, if necessary, it must be leveled with a cement-sand mixture. On the perimeter of the building in the foundation should be installed anchor bolts for attaching the legs.

Inside the perimeter, concrete supports are used to install support bars, the distance between them should not be more than 2 meters for a bar 100x100 mm and not more than 3 meters for a bar of 150x150 mm.

The foundation must be waterproofed with a coating or overlay method. In addition, in the walls of the foundation should be made pockets for laying the beams of the floor.

Laying down the

is a set of boards laid along the perimeter of the foundation and attached to it with the help of anchor bolts. Anchor bolts are installed in the process of pouring the foundation at a distance of 0.3 meters from the corner of the foundation and in increments of no more than 2 meters. Subsequently, the mortgage board is attached to the ladders, so they must be carefully leveled and secured.

The mortises are made from a board 50 mm thick and a width equal to the width of the foundation. The foundation must be previously waterproofed with a lubricating method, and between the horizontal top plane of the foundation and the beds, it is necessary to additionally lay a roofing felt or other roll waterproofing.

  1. Lay the boards on the foundation, aligning on one side. Surplus is cut with a circular saw or a hacksaw.
  2. Mark the holes for the anchor bolts. To do this, the board is placed over the bolts and hit it with a hammer in place of their location. On the underside of the board there are dents, which are then drilled holes of the required size.
  3. Lay down lay on the foundation and tighten the bolts. Check the leveling with a level, if necessary, loosen bolts and pile stakes, and the formed slots are filled with liquid concrete.
  4. Perform cuts above pockets in the foundation for laying the floor beams.
The process of fastening to the foundation

Fastening process to the foundation

Supports and floor beams

Beams are the main supporting elements, which will later be lagged. Supports are wooden poles mounted on concrete supports, they serve for greater stability of beams and protect them from contact with concrete. Supports and beams are made of coniferous wood impregnated with a biosecurity composition, a 100x100 mm bar is suitable for them.

  1. Perform marking of supports. For convenience, draw a plan for their location, which will indicate their height. On the line of the support, stretch the string, fixing it on the levies at the place where the cuts under the beams are made. Perform measurements of the height of each support using a tape measure and record the results on the layout.
  2. The bar 100x100 mm is cut into the required lengths according to the measurements. In order not to get confused, you can sign their size directly on the newly-peeled supports. The billets are placed in the places intended for them, without forgetting to lay a layer of waterproofing on the concrete or brick foundation. Nails are nailed to wooden liners made in the process of pouring.
  3. The beams are laid one end into the prepared pocket, while the treated wood liners can be used to adjust the height of the beam - it must be flush with the legs. If the length of blanks is longer than the length of the house, then the second end of the beam is applied to the opposite wall in the prepared pocket, mark and cut off the excess. If the beam is shorter, the joists are joined so that the joint hits the support.
  4. The beams are fixed to the legs and intermediate supports with corrugated nails, clogging them at an angle. It is enough to score 2 nails on each side. If the height of the supports is more than 1 meter, they must be further strengthened with the help of cuttings from the board.

Strapping and lagging of the

The strapping board is installed along the perimeter of the building and is aligned along the external plane of the basement. Put the board on the butt so that within the perimeter on the lezhony left the distance to support the lag. The strapping, like the logs, is made from a board of 50 mm, the width of the board depends on the design load and the thickness of the insulation layer, usually using a board with a width of 20-25 cm.

  1. The strapping is done on the sides of the house, parallel to the floor beams. Strapping boards are placed on the butt, aligned on the outer edge of the legs and fastened to them with nails in steps of no more than 20 cm.
  2. Perform marking of the location of the log. To do this, measure off the angle along the stacked planking of the stacking step of the lag, 40 cm. The boards intended for the logs are laid out on the beams in the required amount, placed on the side plane and aligned along the markings. In this case, it is necessary that the marking line be on the same side of the board, otherwise the step may change.
  3. If the length of the board from which the logs are made covers the entire length of the building, then the marking on the opposite side is carried out in a similar manner starting from the same angle. The logs are cut to size and fastened with nails to the harness and legs, and after checking their level position - to the beams at the intersection.
  4. If the length of the building is longer, the logs must be joined. Do it overlap to increase the strength of the floor. In this case, the boards are laid first on one side, then on the other so that the joint is formed on the floor beam. Cut the intermediate logs 30 cm long and knit the joints between each other, setting the trimming as a spacer. After that, fix the lags on the joists.
Tying and lagging

Installation of lashing and lagging

Warming of the floor

In warm regions where the temperature does not fall below zero, warming is not necessary. In the middle zone, the unheated floor will cause large losses for heating the house, so it is necessary to provide for the laying of thermal insulation.

The optimal material for this is mineral wool - it is non-flammable, has extremely low thermal conductivity, is not damaged by rodents and is easy to lay down due to plasticity for compression. The only drawback of this material is the tendency to get wet and the loss of thermal insulation ability. Therefore, the layer of insulation must necessarily be protected with a waterproofing and windproof film. You can use isosphere.

If a heater with insufficient density has been chosen, a rough floor of a unedged board treated with biosecurity must be sewn under the lags.

  1. The vapor barrier film is laid across the log so that it sags and allows the insulation plates to be laid between them. Joints of strips are pasted with adhesive tape, fasten the film with a stapler.
  2. Insulating plates are placed between the lags, trying not to leave any gaps. If the insulation is laid in two layers, it is necessary to shift the second layer to half the plate to cover the joint of the first one.
  3. A waterproofing foil is placed on the top of the heater, which will help to avoid wetting during fluid leakage inside the house. The film is fastened with brackets.
Warming of the floor with mineral wool

Warming of the floor with mineral wool

Flooring

The material for flooring depends on your choice. If a decorative sheet is a sheeted board, it is laid across the log, fastened with nails, while trying not to leave any crevices. Subsequently, such a floor is caked and varnished.

However, more often the floor covering in different rooms of the house differs, so a layer of plywood 16-20 mm is laid on the logs, and the finish is made after finishing the construction of the house.

  1. Mark the sheets of plywood so that the joints of the sheets are on the lag. Lubricate the logs with glue "liquid nails" and lay out sheets of plywood, fasten them with nails or self-tapping screws. The glue eliminates the scratching of the floor and creates an additional fastening.
  2. Between the sheets leave a small gap, no more than 2 mm, so that when the humidity rises the floor does not jar.
  3. In the places of passage of pipes and other communications in the plywood holes are made, for this, it is first marked, and then cut by a circular saw.
  4. The edges of the plywood sheets are aligned on the binding board, mark with a coated thread and cut.
Mounting of plywood on logs

Mounting of plywood on logs

Video - erection of floor in frame house

After the floor has been completed, it is possible to proceed with the further construction - the erection of the frame of walls, roof, to the skin of the house. Finishing coating is laid on the floor of the frame house after the installation of internal partitions.

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