Siding is a siding for dry types of exterior finishes and is suitable for most types of residential and household buildings, especially from foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not have a significant load on the foundation, so this cladding is used on old wooden houses.
The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by low price, but also by durability, because it does not fall as plaster, with time, simple maintenance, excellent protective properties and a rich selection of shades and textures. The undoubted plus of the siding is that it is possible to give a modern look to an old house even with your own hands, saving considerably on the services of builders.
Tools and materials
Before sewing a house with siding, you should check for the presence of the following tools:
- bulgarian or saw with small teeth, metal scissors,
- screwdriver and screwdriver,
- hammer,
- tape measure, gon and level( laser tape measure will greatly simplifywork),
- stepladder, the height of which will be enough to get to the roof of the house.
Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for the skin of the house, even a complex configuration. Typically, the buyer should specify the area of the walls of the house and their size, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts, the schematic outline of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.
Knowing some of the points will help you check or check the calculation. So, the components for installing the siding include the following elements.
- Outside corner of - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is single-storey, it is worth using whole elements for each outside corner of the house;if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum the length of all external angles in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a stock for the stock at docking. Angles are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must necessarily be closed.
- Internal corners of are calculated on the same principle. If the roof cornice is finished with siding, internal corners are also used at its connection with the wall. In cases where the finish of the cornice was carried out earlier or will not be made at all, use the finishing strip.
- For finishing the eaves use elements such as soffits and wind board.
- The required length of the starting plate is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and pediments.
- The J-profile is used in connection sections for extensions, elevations and roofs at different levels.
- The perimeter of the windows is covered by the with the window plate, it needs to be taken in reserve so that the docking points can not be seen. Also, for framing of windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
- On the perimeter of the plinth is installed the drain plate or the outflows of the , if its width is 40 cm is not enough.
- If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of the siding panels - the connection is made using the of the H profile .It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are preserved.
- The number of siding panels themselves is calculated approximately by the formula: «((the area of all the walls of the house is the area of windows and doors) / panel area) * 1.10» .A stock of 10% is necessary for the expense of trimming and marriage.
- For mounting, it is preferable to use zinc-plated self-tapping screws with a length of 25-35 mm, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended clearance of 1mm. On 1 sq.m.consumes about 2 screws, they should also be taken with a margin. If there is a possibility, then it is worth choosing self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which exactly there will be no rusty stains in a few years.
Preparatory work for
Before the siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. At first, all protruding details are dismantled: doors, platbands, grilles, etc. Seal with cement mortar or mounting foam all the cracks in the walls, around the windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, splinter plaster and paint, mold and rotten plots. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, walls of foam concrete can be treated with a primer of deep penetration.
Mounting the crate
The first thing to do is to install a crate from a metal profile or wooden rails, since fastening the panels directly to the wall is strictly forbidden. The galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD-profile for gypsum board. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use 60 * 40 mm slats with a residual humidity of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.
Use a tape measure and a level to mark out straight lines on the walls of the house so as to get a closed loop. Carefully measuring the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the socle, find the minimum, and, putting it down, spend another circuit. Later on this line the starting bar is set, and if it deviates from the level, the facing panels will skew.
Then, using the U-mounts, vertical guides are mounted, starting at the corners. It is necessary to achieve their close fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where additional loading is necessary for siding, for example street lamps, as well as near corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical guides should not be connected in any way, so that there are no obstacles for ventilation, since the absence of air current will lead to the appearance of mold.
Waterproofing and insulation
For wooden, aerated concrete walls, the waterproofing installation is mandatory, and the insulation layer is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-impervious membrane. If the insulation is not made, then the film is fixed directly to the wall of the house to keep the distance necessary for siding ventilation. When installing a heating layer, the waterproofing is laid over it, and then the crate is re-constructed to provide a clearance for ventilation.
Mounting of
guiding elements Installation is started by installing a spillway onto the plinth, placing its upper edge along the previously planned line. This is a rigid design, and to fix it even easier than a flexible starting bar. Then the turn of the angular profiles. They must be rigidly fixed with screws at the top of the first hole. The subsequent screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.
Window frames or J-profiles are fastened around the windows so that the outer lower edge is a few centimeters below the inner edge. Door apertures are edged with J-profiles. The angles of these elements can be cut at 45 degrees, and you can overlap by laying the top strips on the side.
With vertical installation of H-profiles in pre-designated locations, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and the plinth, so that the slats do not bend when expanding. Under the roof or where the area covered by the siding is finished, the finishing strip is mounted.
Installing
panels When all guide elements are installed, you can go directly to mounting the panels. The first row is fixed to the starting plate until the lock snaps in from below, at the top the panel is fixed with screws to the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are mounted on the same principle, row after row rising to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and tighten it, it should walk slightly to the sides. The upper row of siding ends with a finishing strip.
What should I take into account?
Rule number 1. In no case should rigidly fix the siding panel. The material from which they are made, is compressed in the cold and expands with heating, the length oscillations can reach 1%.This is the cause of the elongated shape of the fastening holes. Fasteners can not be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, with the screw screwed not to the stop, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the cap. If this rule is violated, the siding can simply burst with strong heating.
Rule number 2. There should be a gap of 10 mm between the slats and the guides,( less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not bend when expanding. When plating the house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.
Rule number 3. The siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack during cutting, so you should be careful and use the grinder.
With the help of siding, in compliance with the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from weathering for 30-40 years, this is the life expectancy of manufacturers.
