How to properly plaster the slopes of windows

Slopes for window openings are initially defined during construction. They can be made at right angles, at dawn( diverging at a certain angle), external and internal and by the geometry of the window - rectangular, arched or any other shape along the contour of the window. The most difficult part of the plaster of the slopes of the windows is the correctly drawn corners.

Correctly plastered slopes of windows create a general picture of the front or inner part of the wall. It does not matter if you have plastic windows or wooden ones. The principle of plaster for all window openings is one.

Preparatory works for plastering of slopes

1. Plastering works on slopes, it is necessary to start after all the plastering works on walls and ceiling are done.
2. You will need a set of tools in any case. A level that does not exceed the width of the window opening.
3. Two - three spatulas made of stainless steel. Narrow about 5 cm, medium within 10 -12 cm and wide up to 25 cm.
4. Trowel( trowel) for a solution cap, malk, grater, kirochka or hammer.
5. Screwdriver with a set of bits, screws,( if the finish is plasterboard).
6. Reinforced fiberglass mesh.
7. Aluminum or plastic corner. For arched openings there is a special perforated flexible corner.
8. Dry plaster mix and putty for finishing works.
9. It is advisable to install the window sill in advance before starting the work with the slopes. Remove with a knife for gypsum board, the remnants of the mounting foam around the perimeter of the window frame.

The order of the work on the plastering of the slopes

1. First of all, trim the window opening with a kerch, cut down all the ledges, remove the dust and treat the slopes with a primer. Allow it to dry and coat the surface with gypsum. Large depressions can be sealed with gypsum or alabaster. With alabaster work very quickly, as it seizes within 5 minutes.
2. Sometimes, to reinforce a very thick plaster layer, reinforced metal mesh is attached. It prevents slipping or collapse of the wet plaster, and after drying the cracking of the slope surface. Ideal option - reinforced galvanized wire mesh. Strengthen it with dowels made of stainless steel. Rust has an unpleasant feature to show through the plaster and putty.
3. Spreading of plaster is made by the trowel in small portions with layer-by-level smoothing of the surface. To create the desired angle of the slope, use a semiter and a grater. Withdrawing corners, check with the level.
4. The most difficult part is the upper horizontal plane. Most often the surface is plastered using reinforced mesh. For ease of processing, it can be sewn with gypsum board.
5. After complete drying of the plaster, it is treated with a combing primer and antiseptics preventing fungus and mildew.
6. A fiberglass reinforced mesh glued to the perimeter of the slope with a slight overlap on the walls. For slopes with straight angles, you can use a plastic profile corner. If the plastered corner is less than straight - you can adjust the size of the aluminum or galvanized corner.
7. The surface is covered with a thin layer of coarse-grained filler, which is not thick in 2 - 3 mm. After drying, a second layer of finishing finely dispersed putty is applied.
8. Dry the dried surface with fine sandpaper or a special trowel with a replaceable mesh. Primed with a liquid for painting and painted with water-based paint.
9. To give the desired color, there is a palette of water-soluble pigments of different colors. Apply paint with a brush or roller, preferably in several layers.
10. Finishing the external slopes of windows is no different from works inside the room. The work should be carried out at a temperature not lower than + 5 ° C. More detailed instructions on how to independently trim the slopes of windows are on the video at the end of the article.

Finishing and plastering of slopes in arched window openings

1. Side slopes are made in the traditional way.
2. For the upper semicircular part is cut to the size of the opening of the veneer from the plywood and attached from the inside to the wall. The reinforced mesh is fixed to the masonry surface, and a surface is plastered with a special polutor.
3. Another option with the use of a ceiling gypsum board. Radially, with a pitch of 15 - 20 cm, mortgages are fixed. You can use a bar or U-shaped galvanized profile for gypsum board. Free space between them is plastered or filled with filler. To do this, you can use polystyrene foam, mineral wool or mounting foam.
4. An arched ceiling gypsum board is attached to the bricks. Then the arched plane is treated with priming impregnations, shpaklyuetsya and painted, as described above.
5. Sometimes, instead of a ceiling gypsum board, use a conventional fiberboard. Screw the fiberboard smooth side up. The rough side is treated with a primer and shpaklyuetsya.

Dry method for finishing window openings

1. Mortgage bonds are attached to the processed and leveled masonry surface of the window opening. They can be made from a wooden bar or use a profile fixing rail for gypsum board.
2. You can use any finishing material to finish the slopes of windows. Plastic, plasterboard, wood panels and stuff. The space between the mortgages is filled with filler.
3. You can use a heater for this purpose. Mineral cotton, foam, foam or any other suitable filler.