Warm floor under the linoleum on the wooden floor

The trend towards the use of modern heating systems is gaining momentum. More and more owners of houses or apartments in the course of repairs or upgrades prefer not to dwell on the classical scheme with radiators, but to install more efficient, inconspicuous, non-violating interior style, economical systems. One of the options for such an innovative campaign is the heating of the floor surface - the convenience and comfort of this heating principle has already been proven by the practice of operation.

If the floor surface is evenly heated, the distribution of warm air throughout the whole volume is much faster and more rational, and thus - there are not so unpleasant, "scraping through the legs," its horizontal convection movements. Yes, and movement on a warm surface in home shoes or even barefoot is much nicer and safer from the point of view of the probability of earning a cold. And this is especially important if the children grow up in the family.

In a word, the advantages of "warm floors" are increasingly outweighed by the quite understandable fear of the owners to get involved in large-scale construction work. Interested homeowners begin to search for the most appropriate options with "minimal losses", so as to avoid complete dismantling of the old coating, and at the same time to achieve a high-quality heating of the surface and, at the same time, making the desired changes in the interior design. So, for sure, many of them are wondering whether it is possible to mount a warm floor under the linoleum on a wooden floor.

It turns out that this is quite feasible, moreover - even in several ways.

Useful information about the types of "warm floors"

Modern construction technologies offer several effective schemes for heating the floor surface using the heat energy of the coolant circulating in the circuits of an autonomous or, more rarely,central heating system, or with the use of AC power as an energy source. Different heating systems assume both the characteristic features of the installation of each of them, as well as the recommended finish of the floor for specific conditions. For convenience of information perception, it is presented below in a table form:

Underfloor heating	Illustration	Mounting technology	Applicable type of floor covering
Optimal variant	Permitted version
Direct heat exchange systems.
"Warm floor" water.		"On Wet", in a cement-sand screed.	Ceramic tiles;porcelain tiles;a natural stone;laminate;board floor.	Linoleum, carpet.
	"Dry", using special shaped metal plates or other special heat exchange elements	Laminate, parquet, wooden floor.	Carpet, linoleum - with pre-plywood flooring.
The heating cable is resistive.		"On wet", in cement-sand screed	Ceramic tiles;porcelain tiles;a natural stone.	Laminate;plank floor;linoleum;carpet.
The heating cable is self-regulating.		"On wet", in a cement-sand screed.	Ceramic tiles;porcelain tiles;a natural stone;board floor.	Linoleum;laminate, carpet.
Resistive heating mats.		"Wet", in a thin cement-sand screed or in a layer of tile adhesive	Ceramic tiles;porcelain tiles;a natural stone.	Laminate;plank floor;linoleum;carpet.
Infrared heating transmission systems.
Core mats of the "UNIMAT" type.		"On wet", in a thin screed or layer of tile adhesive.	Ceramic tiles;porcelain tiles;a natural stone;laminate;carpet;linoleum.
Film systems with carbon heating elements.		«On dry».	Laminate, parquet, whiteboard.	Linoleum carpet.

Please note that the vast majority of "warm floor" systems for efficient operation means closing the cable or pipe loop with a cement-sand screed - it not only becomes the basis for the flooring of the finish coat, but also plays the most important role of the thermal energy accumulator. In the case of ceramic tiles, it itself becomes a capacious heat storage, and in this case, you can resort to pouring a thin layer of self-leveling mortar or even tile adhesive.

But with a linoleum such a simplified approach is hardly possible. But a full-fledged screed on the wooden floor - this is a whole problem. No, of course, there are similar technologies - after appropriate preparation, the screed is poured and on a wooden base, but often it becomes impossible, difficult to implement or absolutely not rational:

• Any screed( and it is required not less than 50 mm thickness) will significantly raise the floor level, and this is without taking into account the future finish coat. Not in any room you can go for it, especially - in conditions of not too high ceilings of standard city apartments.
• Screed - this is always an additional, very considerable load on the overlap. There are situations when it can not be used to fill it up simply because of the disparity of the planned loads with the possibilities of building structures. If to understand, even a 50 mm layer of concrete will give an additional force of about 300 kg per square meter. Fill such a screed when creating a system of a warm floor, say, on a balcony - is very risky.
• Sometimes considerations of impossibility of delivery of a solution to a place of carrying out of works and the great complexity of its preparation on a place come to the fore. It is necessary to take into account and transport-unloading costs - lead and raise to the high floor heavy construction materials, too, pours into a costly exercise. In addition, not everyone wants to plant in his apartment, the inevitable in the performance of cement works dirt.
• It may also be that the owners simply do not want to part with a quality, reliable and warm wooden floor. In their plans - only to make their artificial heating and change the "scenery".Naturally, they will not go to the filling of the screed.

It is for such cases that the technologies of "dry" installation of the "warm floor" system are suitable. And there is even the possibility to choose between water and electric heating. The publication will tell you about the technology of laying both the water and infrared "warm floor", so that the interested reader can make an informed choice that is most suited to him.

Preparing a wooden floor for

No matter which type of floor heating is selected, the base wood base requires some preparation. This is especially important in the case if the work will be carried out on a fairly old, already served a lot of wooden floor.

First of all, a thorough revision of the entire surface, including under load, should be carried out in order to identify possible places of base instability. If the boards "play" on some parts of the floor, they will have to be dismantled to get to the cause of such unstable behavior. Most likely, it is covered in deterioration - rotting, cracking, subsidence lag. All suspicious elements require unconditional repair or even replacement.

. It will not be superfluous to treat the lag with antiseptic impregnation in order to exclude damage caused by rot, mold or insects.

It is possible that among the floorboards there are defective parts that require replacement.

You should definitely get rid of cracks and gaps between the floorboards - you may need their "bulkhead" and reinstallation. Narrow gaps can be sealed with special filler for wood.

. In the old floor, there may be differences in level between adjacent floorboards or due to repeated staining and subsequent uneven peeling of the paint. This should also be taken care of by aligning with a plane, or even better - by completely looping the entire surface. This is especially important if you plan to install an infrared film system - even minor level changes are unacceptable here.

You can solve the problem and otherwise - to cover the entire surface with plywood or OSB sheets, tightly fitting them to each other and then sealing the cracks with putty.

In any case, complete the work on the preparation of the wooden foundation should be a careful surface treatment impregnated with antiseptic action. Very often such treatment simultaneously increases the resistance of wood to fire.

For further work, only after complete soaking and drying of the primer composition.

Neglect preparatory work should not be - the "warm floor" system is planned by good owners with the hope of long-term use, and it will be very costly to dismantle it because of the defect in the wooden base.

Water "warm floor" on the wooden base

First of all, you need to make an important observation. The system of water "warm floor" is efficient and economical, although it is somewhat difficult to install. However, it is more suitable for autonomous heating systems( with the exception of systems with solid fuel boilers - here it does not justify economically).But before the owners of those apartments that are heated by central heating, there can be a number of problems, both purely technological and administrative. Do not act rashly - you must weigh all the "pro" and "contra" in advance.

Is it possible to connect a "warm floor" to a central heating system?

Yes, it can be implemented subject to certain technological requirements and the necessary administrative approvals. More details about the features of connecting the "warm floor" to the heating system - in the special publication of our portal.

"Classic" scheme "warm floor" implies a layer of insulation, so that thermal energy does not go unnoticed by unnecessary heating of the ceiling, and a powerful layer of heat that transmits heat from the pipe contour of the floor surface and a layer of screed.

In the case of a wooden base with thermal insulation, there is no special problem - a layer of insulation, if it is necessary, it is easy to place between the lags under the floor surface. But with the heat exchange the question is more acute. If you place the pipes simply open under the finish surface, then the air layer will play the role of an insulator, and the heating will be extremely inefficient. Simply laying the pipes in the grooves is also not an option, since the heat capacity and thermal conductivity of the wood are low, and the surface also will not receive full heating. To ensure an acceptable level of heat transfer, special heat exchange( or else heat-distributing) plates are used, the profile of which is designed for dense placement of the tube in it, with a maximum contact area for transferring heat to the metal surface, and already from it - the finish coat.

. Thus, these plates perform a dual function - they help to stabilize the pipe contour and ensure efficient heat transfer. They are made of galvanized steel, aluminum, copper is rarely found.

These heat distribution plates can stack in different ways.

• Between boards of a wooden rough covering the gaps necessary for stacking of plates in advance can be left in advance.

1 - lag.

2 - boardwalk with left lumens.

3 - heat distribution plates.

4 - pipes of "warm floor".

5 - layer of waterproofing substrate.

5 - finishing coat or layer of plywood.

• Another option - in the wooden( chipboard) base, slots of the correct size and "trajectory" are milled in advance with a certain pitch.

7 - milled grooves for installation of heat exchanger plates can be milled to install the plates.

• If possible, use special profile insulating mats for the "warm floor".Between their bosses the heat distribution plates are reliably and very tightly placed, into which the pipe circuit is already laid.

8 - expanded polystyrene profile mat with bosses.

• If it is intended to install a water circuit on a flat floor surface and there is no possibility to resort to milling, it is possible to simply fix the rails of a suitable section to the wooden base( for example, for a 16 mm pipe - 20 mm thick).An example of such an approach is shown in the table below.

Laying the contour of the warm floor using rails and heat exchanger plates

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	You will need to use rails( for example, as in this case, 20 × 40 mm), screws, screwdriver. The required number of pipes, heat exchanger plates, damper tape is prepared, corresponding to the length of the perimeter of the room.
	At the joint of the floor and the wall, along the entire perimeter of the room, it is recommended to lay a damper elastic band. It compensates for possible thermal expansion of the coating, it will block the "noise channel". In addition, it is much more convenient to cover the plywood with linoleum - the necessary clearance will be created immediately.
	Heat distribution plates are ready for operation.
	To the wooden surface of the floor I fix the first rail with self-tapping screws - along the wall.
	This rack will press against the wall and damper tape.
	Then, using a heat exchange plate, the exact location of the second river is measured. It must be strictly parallel to the first and be away from it at such a distance that the protrusion of the plate is securely fixed between them. At the same time, neither the deformation of the figured protrusion nor its backlash should be tolerated.
	The second rack is placed in the correct position and is attached to the floor by screws. After fixing these rails, the first row of heat exchanger plates can be installed immediately. If necessary, they are easily cut with metal scissors, and some have a perforation that allows them to be broken off at the right place by hand.
	Go to the installation of the second row. To accurately "calibrate" the distance and direction, you can temporarily lay a rail that will set the direction of the second row.
	Everything is repeated - first one rack is attached, then the second is used on the plate, and so on.
	As a result, such a structure is gradually formed.
	The work continues until the entire floor area on which the pipe circuit is mounted is completely closed.
	You can proceed to laying the pipe. Pipe made of PE-RT polyethylene is used, which are quite flexible and strong. It is easy to place them in the grooves of the plates, pressing lightly until they are fixed with the foot, which is shod in shoes with soft soles.
	Special care is required when cornering. Inadvertent laying sometimes leads to a break in the pipe, so you can resort to heating the turn with the help of a hair dryer - so will increase the elasticity.
	So gradually, the selected contour pattern is stacked. In this case it is a "snake".
	After laying the contour, you can finish the finish. As we are interested in just linoleum, it will be necessary for it to first lay plywood( or OSB) with a thickness of at least 10 mm. It is recommended to lay a thin polyethylene foam under the plywood - this will become an additional waterproofing from external leaks, and compensates for minor unevenness of the floor and metal plates. When attaching the plywood, you should take special care and prudence so as not to damage the screws of the pipe.

It should be understood that this example is only for understanding the principle of laying technology. Actually, here you can see a lot of mistakes that should be avoided:

1 - a large gap is left between the heat exchange platinum. This will inevitably lead to the "zebra effect", that is, the floor heating will be with obvious warm and cold stripes. To avoid this, it is necessary to properly select the plates to fit - their range allows you to find the required, under the selected step of laying the pipe, so that the gaps between them are minimal.

2 - the remaining "empty" area in general "drops out" of participation in surface heating. The pipe will simply heat the air, not transferring heat to the surface.

3 - the bend of the pipe is not enclosed at all in any groove. This is a real threat of fracture when stacking. In addition, it is not known how a non-fixed pipe will behave in the event of temperature changes.

To avoid such errors, the plates are tried to pick up and stack so that the gaps between them are minimal.

Also, it is necessary to achieve the most reliable fixation of the pipes during bends. This can be done by using a jig saw on the panels of the fiberboard, as shown in the picture:

Creation of a heated floor contour using special "Thermotech" foil elements.

It is even more preferable to use ready-made elements for a water-heated floor, which combine thermal insulation properties, preventing thermal losses downwards, and act as an extremely convenient template for laying pipes. Example - special foil elements produced by the company "Thermotech".

They are made of extruded polystyrene foam with high mechanical resistance to compression( 300 kPa), low coefficient of thermal conductivity( on the order of only 0.032 W / m × ° C).With a size of 600 × 400 × 30 mm, this panel weighs only 320 grams. The geometrical dimensions and simplicity of the material cutting simplify the process of laying on the floor surface.

The entire top side of these elements is covered with an aluminum foil 150 μm thick. This ensures efficient heat transfer from the pipes of the "warm floor" contour to the above-mentioned finish surface. On each of the elements there are two parallel channels for laying the pipe( PEH, PE-RT or metal-plastic) with an external diameter of 16 to 18 mm. In addition, curved U-shaped channels hidden by the foil are provided, which allow laying the turns of the pipe, and in these areas the heat transfer is preserved in full.

The laying process is extremely simple and intuitive:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	A stack of practically weightless panels is ready for operation.
	To work, you need a minimum set of tools: a metal meter ruler, a sharp construction or clerical knife, a tube with glue "liquid nails" and a syringe for it, gloves. A pre-compiled layout of the contour must be available.
	To begin with, the wooden base is thoroughly cleaned from dust and primed. The usual composition is used, preferably with antiseptic properties. Primer will improve the adhesion of the adhesive composition to the substrate.
	It is desirable to immediately lay out the elements "in rough", in order to observe the selected pattern of laying the contour. Panels, thanks to strict geometric shapes, perfectly adjacent to each other, with virtually no gaps.
	The correct placement will ensure an ideal match for the pipes to be laid on adjacent elements.
	If the panel requires cutting, then it is easy to carry out the usual clerical knife. The cut is made from the side of the foil coating.
	After the "rough laying", you can sequentially fix the panels on the adhesive. It is applied point-wise - there will be a small amount in the corners and in the center.
	The smeared panel is installed on the floor plane, pressed, and moved lightly to the left and right to the exact location - this helps to distribute the glue evenly.
	those sections of the floor where the contour outline is not supposed to be filled with fragments of ordinary polystyrene foam 30 mm thick. They are also "planted" on the
	glue. If through this area a pipe passes to the collector, then it will be easy to cut out a channel for it using an acute knife.
	The density of the panels allows them to move freely around them when laying the pipe circuit. The pipe is securely fixed in the channels with a light foot pressure.
	At the turning point, the pipe is smoothly bent and pressed against the arc-shaped channel covered with foil. Thanks to the perforation, the coating should break through the line, and the pipe will fall into place. If the foil coating "resists", you can make a light cut with a knife, only very carefully, so as not to damage the pipe.
	As a rule, the pipe fits perfectly into this arc-shaped channel and is securely fixed in it. If it aspires on this site to rise and leave the channel, then it is possible to glue a piece of double-sided scotch to its bottom. Another option is to put the load on top. Both of these are temporary measures, since a pipe made of cross-linked polyethylene( PEX or PE-RT) is sufficient for two or three hours to take the desired shape and reliably fall into a curved channel.
	The work continues in the same way until the circuit is completely laid out and its ends are terminated to the points of connection to the heating system( to the collector cabinet).

After the installation of the pipe circuit, its hydraulic testing is carried out. If everything is fine - you can move to the flooring of plywood, OSB or gypsum fiber sheets, which will become a reliable basis for the subsequent flooring of linoleum.

When laying pipes, note that the length of the contour can not be arbitrary. There are certain limits, if exceeded, the appearance of the "locking" effect is possible, that is, the hydraulic resistance of the laid pipes exceeds the value of the coolant pressure, and the circulation in such a circuit will cease.

On a wooden base under the linoleum enough laying the pipe diameter of 16 mm. And this means that the total length of the contour should not be above 70, in extreme cases - 80 meters. If it is decided to use a pipe of 20 mm, then the limit of the contour length becomes 100 meters.

And how correctly to calculate, how many pipes will leave on a lining of a circuit? For this, there is a special formula:

L = k × S / H

L - quantity of pipe required for laying the contour;

k - coefficient that takes into account the pipe consumption during the contour turns;Depending on the diameter of the pipe, it varies from 1.1 to 1.3.

S - total floor area on which the contour layout is planned;

H - the step of laying pipes( as we saw, for example, in special panel elements it is strictly maintained - 200 mm).

Too small step - this is the difficulty in laying, a high probability of a broken pipe, excessive heating. Exceeding the stacking step( more than 300 mm) will necessarily lead to the already mentioned "zebra effect".So a step of 200 mm seems optimal in our case.

In order not to complicate the task, the following is a convenient calculator that allows you to quickly and accurately conduct a similar calculation:

Calculator for calculating the length of the contour of the pipes of the water "warm floor"

In this publication, only the features of installation of the water "warm floor" contours on the wooden base for linoleum are considered. The very same process of creating such a system, its connection to the source of heat, verification and debugging - is much more difficult.

The nuances of creating a system of water "underfloor heating"

In this issue, everything is important - and the selection of components, and the competent drawing up of styling schemes, and the installation itself, and verification with a subsequent test run. Special attention is paid to the quality of pipes for the "under-floor" circuits. A self-assembly of floor heating - the task of an increased level of complexity. All these issues are reflected in the pages of our portal.

To complete this section of the publication, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video story in which the amateur master made an attempt to dispense with the "dry" laying of the water "warm floor" without plates and special elements. The aluminum foil is used as a heat exchange and reflective layer.

Very interesting approach. It's a pity, it was not possible to find reliable feedback on the effectiveness of this scheme from people who tried it in practice. But on idea - should work!

Video: an example of creating a water-warm floor on a wooden base without a screed

Laying an electric under-floor heating film under a linoleum

In terms of the scale of the forthcoming works and the complexity of their implementation, the infrared heating of the floor is much preferable. Yes, and the total cost of purchasing the required kit will be much lower. Many people are stopped by the high cost of electricity, however, the infrared heating system is famous for its economy, and with proper operation it should justify itself.

What is necessary for the operation of the

The basic mounting kit usually includes:

• The required amount of film heating tape on the roll. Usually, the infrared film is realized by the meter. Acquire it in such a way as to close about 60 ÷ 70% of the area of ​​the premises. Under stationary furniture items, it is not available - it will not participate in the general process of heating the room. In addition, the risk of overheating of radiating elements or their clamping with heavy objects is great.
• The set always includes the required number of patch wires of two colors - so as not to get confused when connecting the cloths.
• To ensure contact with the conductive busbars of film heaters, the kit includes terminals - in the form of crimps with two jaws or the type of rivets.
• To isolate the places of the contact connection and the places where the tires are cut, there must be cut pieces of special insulating material on the bitumen base.

• As a rule, any kit is accompanied by instructions on how to install the system.

In addition, you will need to separately purchase a control unit with an adjustable thermostat. Usually it is made in the standard size of a standard switch, and is designed for installation in the sub-socket. A temperature sensor with a signal cable must be attached to the thermostat block.

temperature sensor. In addition, it is necessary to prepare in advance:

• Foil insulation on the foam polyethylene foam, with a thickness of about 4 ÷ 5 mm. It is necessary to create a thermally insulating reflective substrate, and in addition, the thickness of the material will hide the wires, terminals, sensor. Such a cover is purchased for the entire room, regardless of the area on which the heating films will be laid out.
• Stable tape, and best of all, except for the usual, stock up and still foil.-.
• Polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns - for the entire area of ​​the room.
• Well, of course, you will need plywood or other sheet material, which will then be covered with linoleum.

Tools required a little:

• Acute construction or clerical knife, scissors.
• Pliers for crimping terminal blocks.
• Screwdrivers for switching wires in the thermostat block.
• Measuring instrument, pencil or marker - for marking.

Determine the location of the thermostat unit in advance. Usually it is placed on the wall at a height of not less than 500 mm from the floor, in a place accessible for visual inspection and adjustments. To lead wires to it, you can cut the shtrobu, but often limited to a neat decorative cable channel fixed to the wall surface. To the place of connection of the system it is necessary to lead the power line in advance. For security reasons, it is best to allocate a separate wiring, which will be connected through an individual machine. It is recommended not to neglect and install a protective device RCD.

The location of the thermostatic unit must ensure the connection of the temperature sensor with its placement in the center of the width of the IR film, at a distance of at least 500 mm from its edge. The best option is to install a temperature sensor in the coldest place in the room. However, this does not always work, as the length of the regular signal cable may not be sufficient, and its length can not be increased independently.

The scheme of connection of heating film elements is simple - they are switched in parallel by two wires. The wiring can be done from one side, or from opposite sides, as shown in the figures below.

cables When connecting from both sides, special care is required to avoid accidentally "planting" two different wires on one current-carrying busbar of the heating sheet.

The process of installing the infra-red floor

	As already mentioned, the base wood surface for a film warm floor should ideally be leveled. Begin the work with covering the entire area of ​​the room with a heat-reflecting substrate with a foil layer up. Not bad, if there is an opportunity to make allowance for walls on 50 ÷ 100 mm. This is useful for plywood flooring - the necessary damper layer will be created immediately. Surplus is then easily cut off with a knife.
	The material strips are laid close to back. The docking points are immediately fixed with foil tape over the entire length.
	Pass to the layout of infrared film strips. They are stacked so that the coppered side of the conductive bus is looking down. Cloths must in no case be crossed. There must be at least 50 mm between the busbars of adjacent strips.
	If necessary, the film can be cut with scissors, but only in special places designated by the manufacturer. Typically, the cutting lines are arranged in steps of 250 or 300 mm.
	The next step is to immediately isolate those places of the tire section that will not be involved in switching the general scheme. The protective cover is removed from the insulation piece included in the kit, and then the two sides are wrapped around the cut and tightly crimped so as to achieve a reliable seal.
	You can proceed to the installation of the electrical circuit of the "warm floor". The included terminal clamps are being prepared.
	In the pass band of the busbar in the film element, there is a stratification. In this slot, the terminal tab is wound, so that the second one remains below.
	Then the terminal is properly crimped with pliers to make a secure contact. The same operation is carried out at all points of wire connection, according to the scheme.
	Go to the connection of the cable part. The ends of the prepared and laid out in the right order, according to the scheme, the wires are stripped from the insulation by about 10 mm. The stripped conductor is introduced into the cylindrical part of the terminal up to the insulation, and then tightly compressed with pliers to ensure a reliable contact.
	In some cases, it is necessary to crimp two wires in one terminal to ensure the parallel connection of the strips of the
	film. After all the wires are connected, it is necessary to ensure a reliable insulation of the contacts. For this, two fragments of regular bitumen insulation are prepared for each connection point. First one fragment is glued from below. ..
	. .. then the same one - "meet" him, from above. After careful crimping, you will get a fully sealed capsule. This operation is carried out on all terminals.
	Next, you need to place a temperature sensor. It is glued in the selected location in the center of the black strip - the same insulating material.
	The film coating should be absolutely flat. And in order to ensure that the sensor and the terminals do not lift the film above the overall level, "foils" are cut out for them in the foil-coated substrate, so that the insulating "capsules" are completely immersed in them.
	Similarly, the "channels" for laying the wires are cut out - they too should not protrude above the general level.
	After laying the wires, you can finally fix the infrared film, pasting adjacent sheets with each other, and the extreme ones - to the base with the help of adhesive tape.
	"Channels" with padded wires are also sealed with tape.
	In exact accordance with the attached instruction, the power wires of 220 V, the cables going to the heating elements and the sensor, are switched to the terminal connectors of the thermostat block. After commutation and thorough testing, a test run must be carried out to ensure the system is operational. If everything is OK, the thermostat works, and on the film elements we feel heat, then the system is de-energized again to safely perform the subsequent operations.
	For linoleum flooring, a rigid base is required. In addition, there is the possibility of damage to the electrical part of the warm floor through a rather fragile linoleum coating. Usually resort to the flooring of plywood or OSB sheets. Under them it is necessary first to lay a layer of polyethylene film, with the gluing of overlapping cloths( not less than 100 ÷ 150 mm) with scotch tape. When plywood is used, special care must be taken to ensure that the fasteners fall into the free areas and do not damage either the film elements or the cabling.
	And, finally, you can go directly to the flooring of linoleum. No work features are foreseen here.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

As mentioned above, the kit must contain instructions for installing a specific model of the infrared "warm floor" - it must be followed strictly. But in order for the reader to assess the scale and complexity of the forthcoming operations, to weigh their potential for independent installation, a brief description of the main operations will be given below.

How correctly to lay linoleum?

The reader does not need to spend time searching for information - all this can be found on the pages of our portal. In particular, one of the publications gives advice on the optimal choice of linoleum , and in the other - instructions on for the linoleum liner according to all the rules are given.

And, in conclusion, the author hopes that this publication gave a fairly complete idea of ​​the feasibility and ways of implementing the project of the "warm floor" system on a wooden base for later covering it with linoleum.