Waterproofing in a wooden house: rules, methods, materials

Designing and constructing private houses made of wood allows you to plan your living space freely. In this type of construction there are no fundamental restrictions on the additional construction of partitions and the laying of communications. Thanks to this approach, the bathroom can easily be placed on any of the floors, simultaneously expanding it at the expense of adjacent rooms or fencing the shower corner in a large room.

The structure of frame houses has its own nuances, and they will have to be taken into account when arranging the bathroom:

1. The tree both absorbs and evaporates moisture( breathes);
2. Wood is an organic material, on its surface and in the thickly the fungus and mold are actively multiplying, which leads to its destruction.
3. In conditions of high humidity, the growth of harmful organisms is intensified, and wood is more likely to become unusable.

In the bathroom and toilet, where steam and condensate are always in excess, you need to fully perform the work on waterproofing .They are carried out not only for the purpose of preservation of walls, a floor and a ceiling from negative influence of a moisture. With their help, you will get rid of unpleasant odors, a sense of dampness and keep hygiene in the plumbing rooms.

The basis for the floor is the sheets of chipboard, fixed on the logs.

If you are considering the option of placing a bathroom on the upper floors, then you should provide additional reinforcement of the foundation floor.

Based on the experience of operation, this effect can be achieved by installing beams of larger cross-section and laying them with smaller spaces. The level of laying beams is recommended to be reduced by 10-12 cm so that, after completion of work, the floor height in all rooms was the same.

The floor level will be compensated by pouring cement, installing a floor heating system and laying the tiles. To prevent flooding in the bathroom and adjacent rooms, the floor height after setting the final coating should be below the centimeter threshold by 2-1.5.

When the floor is floored on the second floor and above the concrete pouring is optional, but in the case of the first floor without it, not to do, because it will be installed in it heating.

For heating there are a number of solutions with their advantages and disadvantages. This can be a heating cable, an electric film or a coil with water.

• Fill logs 30-50 cm apart. Then between them spread a roll of insulation wool level with the height of the lag. Sheets of chipboard are fastened to the logs. Preferably, two layers are overlapped. You can replace the wood with a ten-millimeter magnesite sheet.
• On the created flooring lay vapor-waterproofing, places of its joints pull together with adhesive tape. The substrate is covered with a 20 cm approach to the walls.

• Preparing for grouting. The steel mesh is attached to the floor by self-tapping screws, clamps are fixed on it, through which water heating pipes are stretched. For these purposes, we recommend buying polyethylene pipes. They are inexpensive and very durable. From metalloplastika it is better to refuse - can start to flow on connections with the passage of time. The polyethylene pipe can be laid in one continuous piece, it bends without problems at corners, which avoids undesirable leakage in the heating system.
• Having finished with the laying of the pipe, proceed to pour concrete. To get a reliable base, we recommend you fill the screed with a height of at least 4 centimeters. At this stage, the floor is finished. The ceramic tiles can not be laid before 3 days later.

A set of measures for the waterproofing of the wooden floors of the lower floor and those that are higher correctly performed taking into account the following requirements:

• For laying lags, a well-dried and smooth bar with antiseptic impregnation is necessary;
• The wood elements of the structures must be treated with antiseptic and other protective means before laying, so that all joints and ends are covered by them. When performing in situ pruning of unsuitable parts, immediately cut the cut surface;
• In places where lags are fastened to roof beams, a roofing felt is laid;
• To improve the ventilation of the underground in the foundation, it is necessary to make several holes of 10-12 cm. For the winter, the holes are closed so that the heat is not consumed;
• Between the floor and the walls on the second floor, be sure to leave a gap of a centimeter and a half for ventilation. Subsequently it will be closed with a plinth and will not be visible.

While doing insulation works in living quarters, it would be illogical to overlook the basement. Since the basement is mostly below ground level, there is a chance of rain and snow falling into the interior or flooding the basement with groundwater through the cracks and cracks at the joints of the walls and the floor.

To provide protection against dampness and flooding, a roofing material or other waterproofing layer is glued over the walls of the basement. It is also possible to apply a layer of waterproofing mastic evenly, but not on a bituminous basis, as it is flammable and releases toxic fumes when heated.

This construction has a number of serious advantages in the construction, both in a private house and apartment. The logs form additional stiffeners and efficiently distribute the load of the , applied to the wooden slabs, in case of strong impacts, they effectively extinguish them and amortize the entire frame.

The only disadvantage of the floors on the logs is that in the end, the distance to the ceiling will decrease by an additional 8-10 cm. Such a reduction in height is especially undesirable in the arrangement of the attic.

Standard size logs are represented by bars of 25 * 30, 50 * 40, 50 * 50, 50 * 70 mm and 3 or 2.5 m length. The choice of log is necessary taking into account the thickness of the slabs that will be used for the floor frame. For the bathroom, taking into account the subsequent waterproofing, the formation of a concrete screed and tiling, you will need logs of a height of at least 40 mm and a wood plate of at least 20 mm in thickness.

The logs are laid parallel to the floor at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other and with an indentation from the walls of 20 cm. They will be supported on transverse wooden beams or paved on separate racks, assembled from bricks. Under each masonry, the foundation is poured separately - a square of 40x40 cm.

In both cases, in order to maintain horizontality, the construction level is placed on the boards, and the height of the installation is adjusted to them. In places of height differences, additional pieces of plywood or boards are additionally placed on the support.

The brick supports of the log are pressed with a dowel or an anchor. The length of fasteners is taken above the timber by 50-60 mm. In the transverse beams, it is convenient to mount the log with self-tapping screws, entering the body of the beam by 30-50 mm.

A new trend in construction, which significantly facilitated the life of the builder - is the adjustable lag. In fact, serious unevenness and swings of screeds or slabs is a common disease of multi-storey houses. And if we talk about wooden log houses, then in them the beams of overlapping often leads in one direction or another.

Here it comes to the aid of a regulated lag, and with it and its pluses:

• The time of installation is reduced at times;
• Adjust the height of the sub-floor as you wish;
• Together with the clearance from the boards to the floor, it is possible to increase the layer of insulation to be laid;
• Log with adjustable supports less load bearing beams.

The lifting of each lag is regulated by bolts screwed into thrust bearings. The assembly process is approximately the following:

1. Drill holes for rack bolts in the logs. On the basis of the length of 2 meters of these holes will be 5 pieces;
2. The logs are placed in 50-60 cm increments;
3. In the overlapping holes are nested under the driven dowels. They will be fastened bolt-rack.
4. Driving screws are driven into the dowels until they stop, after which they tighten the nut with the keys, which are clad in the bolt, to bring the lag racks to one level. The parts of the bolt protruding above the lag are cut off.
5. The finished frame is sewn with a wood or magnesite slab.

In the case of waterproofing the floor in the bathroom, its need is dictated by the use of a layer of insulation. Mineral cotton wool, though not corroded by mold and fungus, but absorbs and retains moisture. Being damp, it will not be able to protect the floor from stagnation in the same volume.

Different types of water repellent agents are applied to both the finish surface of the floor and the concrete base. Let's consider the characteristics of each of them in more detail.

Paint application is the easiest and least expensive method. Waterproof the floor with the help of paint under the power of anyone. Bituminous or polymeric compositions are used for work, which are applied in several layers with a brush.

Before painting, the wood surface is polished, cleaned from grease and dirt and thoroughly dried. Then the floor and walls are varnished. Particular care must be taken in the corners and at the joints of the walls.

Represents a more dense variety of liquid insulation. They have high plasticity, due to which they are not damaged by mechanical influence and temperature difference.

For the treatment of wooden substrates, insulating mastics made of pergamine are best suited. There are, of course, mastics and cement, but they are fragile, and such a coating can quickly crack.

Liquid parchment is preferred for a number of reasons:

• Can be applied even on a non-dried surface. Pergamin penetrates deeply into the pores of the rock, along with displacing moisture and blocking access to it in the future;
• You will save time on drying the wood;
• The composition is very flexible and durable.

The form of release of pergaminal insulation - cans or aerosol.

Fill application helps smooth out differences in height and roughness at the joints of wood boards. Upon completion of the priming, we obtain a uniform and strong base for facing operations. Also, the casting shows a high quality of isolation from water and its creation takes little time.

Raw materials for insulating floor pouring are heated bitumen or asphalt concrete. The filling is carried out in several passes. The final thickness of insulation is 2-2.5 centimeters.

Preparation for filling begins with the fact that the plates are sheared and the cracks between them are sealed. Forms are mounted along the walls. As a primer, apply a small layer of hot solution and allow it to freeze.

Next, the following layers are poured, which are best removed from corners and places where water pipes leave the floor. To distribute the solution evenly, a notched trowel is used. Bubbles of air from the thickness of the pouring is conveniently forced out with a needle roller.

Of particular interest is the filling insulation for the floor. It will be convenient for use in private houses and in the country, as it is very simple to manufacture.

This requires special loose components - bentonites. They are diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package and form a waterproof gel. The gel has a low thermal conductivity and at the same time will serve as an additional insulation.

Backfill insulation can be considered as an alternative to insulation wool. It will be much easier to place between the lags, and under the level of the chipboard boards smooth out the rule. The material is not hygroscopic in contrast to cotton wool and how the insulation completely justifies itself.

By the form and composition of the rolls for waterproofing are very diverse. Alloys of polyethylenes, fiberglass and glass fibers can be used as a rigid base. Bitumen is an astringent component, but modern products often contain synthetic substitutes. The lower layers of the roll come with a self-adhesive film or without.

If the sheet is not self-adhesive, it is fixed to the floor with a mastic. Insulation sheets overlap one another. For complete sealing Seams of canvas will be greased with a brush additionally.

Work with roll-up waterproofing is performed in several stages :

1. Sweep the construction debris and dust off the floor. Pass bituminous mastic all the cracks on the joints of plates.
2. There should be no differences in joints and unevenness for proper stacking of rolls. Under the film of waterproofing in such places there will be emptiness, and subsequent layers with their weight will push the film about the projecting edge of the board. Therefore, the horizontality on the knocks should be checked by the building level.
3. The roll extends from the approach to the walls to a height slightly above the future concrete screed. In the corners of the insulation film will have to cut and put the edges overlap. For convenience, we advise the angle slightly rounded with cement, so that there is no gap between the walls and the roll.

After completing the finishing work on the flooring, we should pay attention to the waterproofing of the wood. Often, waterproofing tools also perform the function of protecting the tree from mechanical damage and the appearance of stale spots. A durable layer of lacquer reliably closes the natural wood, and you can safely hold a wet floor cleaning in the bathroom with the use of detergent compositions.

For the protective layer, one component or a combination of several applied in several layers can be used:

• Parquet varnish - protects the boards well against moisture penetration, gives a bright glossy appearance and has different colors. The problem is that the varnish dries for a long time and spreads a sharp smell. They also react negatively to temperatures above 50 degrees( begin to flake).
• Bituminous varnish - profitable in terms of price and uncomplicated in the application material. These varnishes are preliminarily diluted with a universal solvent in the proportions prescribed on the label and applied to a prepared clean surface. After hardening, bituminous resins form a strong and elastic layer, which penetrates very deeply into the structure of the tree and hardens. The coating of bitumen varnish is very resistant to shocks and chips, as well as to high temperatures.
• Primer is a kind of starting layer for the subsequent application of parquet varnish. Primer will improve the adhesion and adhesion of parquet varnish. In this case, it can be used for toning and staining of wood, if the main varnish is colorless.
• Stains - they, in fact, do not perform the functions of waterproofing, but are used to give the wood the right color. But unlike it gives more vivid and diverse colors.

The material for the finish coating in the bathroom in wooden houses is chosen taking into account the requirements for its service life, appearance and, of course, the price. You can stay on the following options:

• Larch .Floor board of this breed is distinguished by high strength, can withstand grinding and other types of processing. In addition, we note its beautiful texture, pattern and affordable price.
• Cork floor .Also a convenient and profitable option. It is relatively inexpensive, warm to the touch. Its original design in combination with different types of colors make it possible to use it for the most daring design decisions.
• Tick. Came to home construction from shipbuilding( teak board has long been used to build decks).Teak has established itself as the most resistant to water and dampness. This property is explained by the high concentration of natural essential oils. At a price, the teak board will not be the most affordable option, but it will retain its original shape and properties for a very long time.

Still it is necessary to note fresh know-how for finishing works at bathroom arrangement - "thermo-tree". It is produced from wood that has been thermally treated with hot steam in an autoclave at a temperature of 220 degrees.

This specific treatment reduces the absorption of moisture fivefold and reduces the likelihood of fungus 10 times. The thermal tree is characterized by a homogeneous color gamut throughout the cross-sectional area, variability of the coloring and can be mounted on the floors, both with heating and without it.

Even such advanced and advanced materials do not give full protection against the harmful effects of the aquatic environment and microorganisms, so it is definitely worthwhile to equip the bathroom with an exhaust ventilation system.