How to make a bulk floor on a wooden floor

In modern repair very often used fill floors for leveling the base and for the finish coat. The main advantages of such floors are their durability, wear resistance, durability and convenience of installation. In addition, one can not but note their environmental and safety. Today, liquid floors have changed qualitatively very much in comparison with those that were introduced to the market a few years ago. An example of this can be 3d floors, which can be called real masterpieces, thanks to a unique design with a three-dimensional image of any object.

The installation of a self-leveling mixture on a concrete base does not cause any difficulty, but how to make a floor on a wooden floor? After all, not everyone likes the prospect of dismantling the old boardwalk. And if this is a private house, where the floor was originally completely wooden? It does not matter. It is possible to lay the floor and the wooden surface under certain conditions. It is important here that the old basement is still sound, and the mixture for the floor is thin-layered, so as not to lower the height of the ceilings.

Preparing the foundation for filling the filler floor

As the self-leveling mixture should be poured on a sufficiently prepared base, this process should be given increased attention. Any reason requires careful preparation. This is particularly true of the old wooden floor. Immediately make a reservation that this old floor should not be rotten, there should not be any creaks from him, not to mention the presence of dangling boards.

First of all, all skirting in the room is dismantled. After this, with the help of a cycle machine, carefully peel off the top colored layer from the boards. Then the grinding machine mash the grounds, revealing the cracks, which are necessarily found on any old wooden coating. These cracks, irregularities and cracks between the boards are covered with a putty. For further work, they wait until it dries well. Then, using coarse-grained abrasive paper, rub the entire surface. This technique will allow better adhesion of the self-leveling mixture to the substrate.

The ground and even ground with a vacuum cleaner is cleaned from dust and degreased. Then the surface must be primed. This ensures excellent adhesion of the polyurethane mixture to the wood. Do this in at least two layers. In the composition of the primer should be added sifted quartz sand. The grains of this substance create roughness of the surface of the base, which increases the area of ​​adhesion and creates its multidirectionality. In sum, this gives a great adhesion of the polymer and wood.

Tool needed to perform the work

For the preparation of the wooden base and pouring the mixture, you will need:

• An ordinary nail, wedges and chisels for the removal of plinths.
• Cycle machine or manual cycle.
• Grinding machine.
• Coarse-grained sandpaper or emery paper.
• Industrial or household vacuum cleaner.
• Medium roller or brush for primer application.
• Flat brush or roller with short pile for uniform distribution of the polymer coating.
• Needle roller for removing air from the polymer coating.
• Raklya and a metal spatula.
• Building mixer or drill with a nozzle for mixing the polymer floor solution.

Do not forget about such mandatory items as safety glasses, work clothes, gloves and respirators. In order to be able to move if necessary on the freshly-laid layer of the filling floor without fear, you need to get shoes equipped with soles with spikes.

Technology of self-leveling polymer floor device

The technology of pouring a self-leveling mixture onto an ordinary board floor is not fundamentally different from a similar procedure, where concrete is used as the basis. Differences are concluded only in the initial preparatory stage, which we discussed above in sufficient detail.

Before filling the polymer floor, you should carefully read the instructions for preparing the solution, which is on the package. The solution must be prepared in strict accordance with it.

Take the dry mixture from the bag and pour it into a convenient mixing tank. A plastic bucket can very well come from water-based paint. In the powder, pour the required amount of water as instructed and begin to mix with a construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle. Stir the mixture until a uniform mass is formed. Then, the finished solution is spread on a prepared wooden base. Do this starting from the furthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards the door.

The poured mass as it moves is leveled with a spatula to obtain a layer no more than 5 mm thick. This is the optimal size for a wooden base. The final alignment and removal of air bubbles is carried out using a rubber needle roller. At the same time you can move around the room using your studded shoes.

The self-leveling polymer mixture for the floor very quickly hardens, so the batch of solution must be prepared quickly. The gaps between their fillings should not be more than 10 minutes. It is advisable to fill this floor with two using two tanks. While one person is preparing the mixture, the second is pouring and leveling the previous batch. Joints between batches of pouring should be more thoroughly rolled with a roller, if you do the floor alone and can not provide a continuous process.

After 15 minutes after full filling of the room, the entire surface should be covered with a film. This is required to prevent dust from settling on the floor, spoiling the quality of the glossy surface. When the floor is completely dry and can be walked on, it becomes possible to apply the finish coat. It can be a polymer for three-dimensional floors, varnish or traditional floor coverings.

Cost of installation

Installation costs in the house of self-leveling floors are strictly individual. They depend on the chosen type of self-leveling mixture, its manufacturer, the cost of decorative design. Floors in 3d format with an exclusive pattern are an order of magnitude higher than the ordinary ones. The technology of installing self-leveling floors on a wooden base is not particularly complicated, so you can do the work yourself. This will provide a significant reduction in the cost of the entire repair.

Here are the approximate prices for the performance of work by professionals in stages:

• Preparation of a wooden base for pouring a polymer bulk floor( average price 5 cu per 1 sq. M.).
• Priming the prepared substrate( the average price is 3 cu for 1 sq. M.).
• Filling a wooden surface with a polymer self-leveling mixture( average price 6 cu per 1 sq. M.).

Thus, for the whole complex of works on pouring the filler floor, for example, in a room of 20 m2, you will have to give 280 cu. Agree that the amount is quite impressive. This is much more than the mixture itself costs. All these rates refer to the ordinary sex, which can be done independently.

The cost of pouring decorative floors is usually calculated individually. If you decide to make a floor at home in the 3d format, then you will definitely need to use the services of a specialist. This will guarantee:

• High quality of decorative coating.
• Warranty for all work performed.
• The product of the whole assembly cycle according to the adopted technologies.
• Use in work too expensive, but necessary in the process of construction tools.

In case of independent work execution, it is not necessary to disregard the practical advice of professionals. This experience will help to avoid costly reworking of the coating afterwards.

Advice from

In any residential area, it is recommended to use self-leveling mixtures only based on polymer resins. In rooms where there is constantly high humidity, it is necessary to use an epoxy type of self-leveling floor covering, while in other parts of the house a polyurethane floor.

It is planned to fill the technology with concrete, but it is also possible to mount it on a wooden surface. At the same time the labor intensity of the work increases, since it is necessary to make a qualitative preparation of the base with a two-layer primer. From this depends the strength of the adhesion of the coating to the wood of the base.