Brick barbecue with own hands

A barbecue oven in the country house is an irreplaceable structure that will allow you to quickly and comfortably prepare a variety of delicious dishes for a friendly get-together. Such a barbecue oven can be folded out of bricks with your own hands. Such a stove is universal, safe and serves as a real decoration of the site.

Brick barbecue with own hands

BBQ oven made of brick by own hands

It's not so difficult to run a brick barbecue with your own hands, it's important to stock up on the necessary materials and carefully follow the technology.

Stages of execution of works

To build a reliable and beautiful brick barbecue oven with your own hands, it is necessary to follow the technology accurately at each stage of the work. It is especially important to follow all the recommendations, if your experience in brickwork is small - this will help in the future to avoid rework.

  1. Drawing and specification of the required number of materials. According to the drawing, the exact dimensions of all structural elements are determined, while the amount of waste can be significantly reduced.
  2. Execution of formwork and foundation pouring. The foundation for a barbecue oven should be strong enough to withstand its weight. The expediency of deepening the basement below the depth of freezing, especially on heavily hardened soils, is doubtful - it is enough to make a plate-like reinforced foundation with a thickness of at least 30 cm. On the pitted and wet soils, the foundation is laid on a sand and gravel cushion with waterproofing - this will help to avoid deformation of the stove and its foundation in frosts.
  3. Masonry of the furnace. It is carried out after a complete hardening of the foundation, that is, 3-4 weeks after pouring. Lay the brick on a cement-sand mortar of medium density with the seams opening - so the stove will look much more elegant without facing. It is not necessary to use a heat-resistant brick for the entire oven, you can lay out only the walls of the brazier from it.

Installation of a pallet for a corner, a lattice, a table-top and shelves. Finishing the floor under the stove with tiles and laying roofing iron on the pipe.

Drawing and material calculation

Drawing of a barbecue oven made of bricks is shown in the figure. The proposed oven is made on the basis of concrete, has two compartments - a brazier and a working cutting table. In the table, if desired, you can cut a sink. The stove finishes with a vault and a pipe, which helps to avoid smoke from the created thrust.

Drawing furnace

Drawing furnace

The subsequent masonry technology is designed specifically for such an oven, but you can, if desired, make adjustments to the drawing and change its dimensions somewhat. It is necessary to start from the standard dimensions of a brick 25x12x6 cm.

For the stove shown in the picture you need:

  • Brick - about 350 pieces;
  • Cement and sand for mortar;
  • Concrete M200 for foundation pouring - approximately 0,7 cube;
  • Fittings for foundation: corrugated rod D12 - approximately 25 meters;
  • Angle of 45 mm - two pieces of 1030 mm;
  • Iron sheet for making a coal tray with a thickness of 4 mm;
  • Grill for grilling;
  • Table top made of MDF;
  • Moisture-proof plywood for shelf performance;
  • Porcelain tiles or floor tiles for finishing the foundation;
  • Adhesive for tiles or porcelain tiles;

Corrugated board or roofing iron for pipe.

Foundation pouring

Foundation under the stove

Structural foundation

  1. To fill the foundation you need to proceed only after the preparation of the site. First of all, remove the fertile layer of soil and mark the overall dimensions of the basement - for convenience they should be 10 cm more on each side than the dimensions of the stove. If there is a gazebo with a wooden floor around the stove, then for a fire safety it is better to make a pad about 60 cm wide from the front.
  2. The marking is done using a tape measure and a gon. In the corners of the future foundation, pegs are driven in and pulls the string between them. To verify the correctness of the marking and perpendicularity of the corners, check the equality of the diagonals. On the marking they perform a trench 0.3 meters deep.
  3. For the device of the waterproofing pillow, the bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of crushed stone, and then with a layer of coarse sand. The thickness of each layer is 10-15 cm. The pillow is layered layer by layer and carefully compacted.
  4. Do the formwork above the level of the soil from the plank board, fastened with self-tapping screws. The height of the formwork is 10 cm above ground level. On free-flowing soils, the formwork must be made for the entire depth of the trench.
  5. The reinforcement is carried out. The rod D12 is cut into lengths equal to the length and width of the form and laid in the form of a lattice in 20 cm increments. At the intersections, the bar is tied with a soft wire using a hook for the reinforcement. It is necessary to perform two rows of reinforcement, one to lay on the bottom of the formwork, the second to raise to a level 5 cm below its top.
  6. Buy ready-mixed concrete grade M200 or prepare concrete independently according to the calculation. Fill the foundation and punch concrete using a deep vibrator. Level the surface of concrete with the rule.

The hardening of concrete lasts several weeks. It must be ensured that the top layer does not dry out, for which the foundation is covered with a film. Formwork can be removed in a week.

Masonry Furnace

  1. The cladding is started after hardening of concrete and removal of the formwork. Before the beginning of the masonry mark the dimensions of the furnace on the basement. Masonry is started by marking according to the scheme, checking the level horizontality in all directions. For masonry use a cement-sand mortar, mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 or 1: 4.
  2. The first four rows are laid with a spoon bandage according to the scheme, after the fourth row is laid on the front part of the oven, a 45x45 mm corner is placed - it will serve as a support for the fifth row. The fifth row is placed on the side walls by a jumper banding so that the supports for the shelf and pallet are formed.
    Laying the first rows of the furnace

    Laying the first rows of the

  3. furnace. The sixth, seventh and eighth rows are again laid with a spoon bandage, and the ninth row is performed similarly to the fifth binder perevyazkoy, forming the supports for the grate and countertop.
    6,7,8 rows are laid with a spoon dressing

    6,7,8 rows are laid with a spoonful dressing

  4. The construction of the table on this is completed, and further laying is performed only from the side of the barbecue oven. Rows from the 10th to the 14th are again laid with a spoon bandage according to the scheme, after laying the 14-burn from the front side, put a 45x45 mm corner, which will serve as a support for the arch of the furnace. Perform the 15th row.
    Stacking of 10-15 rows

    Laying of 10-15 rows of

  5. Then the laying of the roof of the furnace begins, which gradually narrows. Perform this narrowing by alternating the spoon and bunching rows and displacing the masonry to the center. The 16th row is put with a tying bandage from the front side, and the 17th row is placed on both sides, the 18th row is again with the front band, but with a shift in the row. In this case, three protrusions are formed, which can be used as shelves.
    Stacking furnace from 16 to 18 row

    Laying the furnace from 16 to 18

  6. row The 19th row is laid with a spoon laying, thus one more shelf is formed. The 20-th and 21-rd rows are laid with a spoon bandage according to the scheme.
    From 19 to 21 the row is laid with a horn

    From 19 to 21 the row is laid with the locating clutch

  7. Beginning with the 22nd row, pipe laying is carried out. The narrowing of the tube in the 23rd row forms another shelf, after which the masonry continues to the desired height without constriction. It should be remembered that the height of the pipe directly affects the traction force, and the higher it is, the better it will be to remove the smoke.
    A sample of a tube laying for an oven

    Sample pipe masonry for the

  8. furnace The penultimate row forms smoke windows, after which the pipe is laid from above. On this the brickwork of the furnace is considered finished. Drying solution lasts about a week, after which you can start finishing work.
    Masonry of smoke windows

    Masonry of smoke windows

Finishing works of

At this stage, it is necessary to install a charcoal pan and grate, countertop and shelves on the oven. The pallet is made of sheet iron in the form of a rectangular sheet with an upwardly curved front edge. The height of the rim is not less than 5 cm. The grate can be purchased ready-made, chrome-plated, or use a suitable size grate from the oven. Shelves and countertops are made of moisture-resistant MDF, fix them in the masonry with the help of furniture dowels in accordance with the drawing.

A roof of profiled roofing iron is installed on top of the pipe, while the length of the ramps must be such that the oblique rain does not enter the smoke windows. The foundation for giving it water-repellent properties from the top can be finished with ceramic granite or tiles, laying them on tile glue.

The barbecue oven is ready

The barbecue oven is ready

Such a barbecue oven made of bricks, made by hand, can become the backbone of the arbor to relax in the fresh air. The functionality of the furnace can be expanded and turned into a smokehouse, if you weld a smoke chamber made of iron in the size of a grid for grilling.

Video - we make barbecue bricks from a brick