Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside and the algorithm for complete heat protection of the steam room

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Each bath wall has its own insulated "jacket"

. In the bathhouse there are three different in the "nature" of the room: a fiery steam room, moderately hot washing and a cool room for rest. Each of these rooms requires an individual approach to thermal insulation, and the protection measures directly depend on the type of material from which the building box is built:

  1. Bar. Thermal insulation of walls from this natural raw material is reduced to careful blocking of the inter-woven joints of the frame. Moreover, this procedure will have to be repeated several times. It is best for these purposes to use an insulator made of a mixture of felt, flax and jute that does not stain, does not lend itself to attack by birds and insects, and retains its unique insulating characteristics for a long time.
  2. Brick. In view of saving this expensive material, the bath is traditionally built with walls of 1.5-2 bricks thick. But this box is not capable to provide good insulation characteristics to the building, therefore all external surfaces are additionally insulated with polystyrene sheets 5-10 cm thick. Facade works using hard mats of basalt mineral wool will cost 30-35% more.
  3. Slagblock. Some varieties of this material are strong enough in terms of insulation characteristics, but they are not enough to adequately protect a particular building such as a bath. Therefore, the steam room is also worn in an outer "coat" made from foam or mineral wool.

All described measures are optimal for standard baths, but the steam room, in view of its extreme climate, needs additional powerful "armor" of its walls. Regardless of the material of the building, it is necessary to make the internal insulation of this building. The warming of the walls of the bath from the inside is most often performed with the help of fire-resistant basalt mineral wool.

The protective "cake" consists of the following layers:

Wooden lining - vapor barrier - mineral wool - waterproofing

The difference consists only in the fact that the thickness of the insulator for wood can be minimal( for insulation from the walls of the log house, thin effective materials with foil are used)but for bricks and cinder blocks it is desirable to provide a standard ball of minvat in 5 cm.

. How better to make the insulation of the floor in the bath?

The floor is a real "hole" in the insulation of a building. Through it, up to 30% of all precious heat is lost, so it is so important to cover this huge gap in its thermal protection.

Thermal insulation of a concrete floor in a foam bath is reduced to the arrangement of a multi-layer screed, where it necessarily includes a 5( 10) -sentimeter layer of this effective thermal insulator PSB-35. For real comfort in the washroom and rest room, it is better to provide a "warm floor" system.

It is ideal for soft heating in living rooms and showers, because the radiating heat from below is evenly distributed in the room and eliminates the cold "whip" that hits the legs in buildings with a traditional heating system. But in the steam room, such measures will be superfluous, since the floor cover here heats up due to the high temperature of the room, it is enough to protect the feet of the steamers with wooden bars.

Now we turn to the nuances of warming the wooden floor in the bath. For this purpose, a double planking of boards is installed in the room, between which a heat insulator is hidden. Such a system is called "non-leaky":

  • the lower board layer is rough, for its arrangement use second-grade sawn timber which is nailed to the bottom of the log;
  • the upper ball of boards - the front side of the floor, consisting of a wooden lining of the highest grade( the best board for a bath of pine, larch);
  • between the lower and upper wooden decks lay the insulator, traditionally protected from both sides by hydro and vapor insulation.

Warming the floor in a foam bath with a foam is not desirable. Still, this is an external insulator, which inside the building "sin" with the radiation of harmful phenolic vapor. The best option is the already known basalt mineral wool( 5 cm).

Slam "heat": insulation of the ceiling of the sauna

The ceiling is the place where hot air in the steam room rushes, so it is so important to reliably protect this path from a possible heat leak. Consider the most popular option with the installation of wooden floors.

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling of the bath, each of which can be made by hand:

  • Open. A 25 cm claydite layer is poured over the wooden lining, protected by a vapor barrier. Only such a thickness of backfilling "balls" will provide the proper protective characteristics of the bath ceiling. The method is suitable only in the case when a one-storey steam room without an attic is being built.
  • Closed. Differs from the previous version in that the "coat" is covered with waterproofing and boarding flooring. In the middle of the system, instead of expanded clay, mineral wool can be used.

The heating of the ceiling of the bath with your own hands can be done in a cheap, old-fashioned way. The wooden covering is twice lubricated with liquid clay, then after it dries up the surface is covered with a mixture of sawdust and dry oak leaves. A warm "blanket" is covered with dry earth( layer - 5 cm).This ceiling insulation of the bath works no worse than modern trim options.

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