So what kind of stove will it be? If there is a line under it, then perhaps it is on it and there is a difavtomat. You either need to check with the developer, maybe a plan ...
p.s.
This is the electrical panel for the house that we developed?
Of course, you are already, so to speak, a regular visitor)
Do I need a separate machine for the backlight? Yes, and separate AV for an electric kettle, a microwave oven? If this is still nothing, then why a hood for a separate machine? She almost does not consume anything, it can be combined.
Is 10A really enough for an oven? Is it less than 2 kilowatts?
If you want everything to be straight forward, for example, for further alteration and implementation of smart home systems, then your shield option good enough, but only if there are reasons for this... But in reality it can be reduced by 2 times without much loss of reliability and facilities. You can't get enough of machines for every point. It's not bad, it just comes out more expensive.
Here is a refrigerator for a separate line - this is not bad, now they do this often, this is the so-called. "Non-disconnectable line".
The hood is a low-power consumer, so it doesn't matter where to power it, I have it on the same block with the microwave in general ...
As for the voltage relay - Novatek is a very interesting device.
RCDs are better than type A, yet there will be a high probability of tripping. Although in your case, there isn't much of a difference. Yes, and you put type A on the washer, and type AC on the refrigerator, then also type A, if you think so. Yes, and perhaps on the microwave too... And then put the speaker on a computer with a TV.
In short, it turns out that it's easier for you to put all type A, if it does not hit you very much.
You do not want to put a common switch for input in the apartment? The switch is better than the machine for input, so as not to guess where the input switch was knocked out (in the entrance or in the apartment), the switch is put into the apartment... But the AV input is also normal,
Have you figured out why you still have 2 automatic machines (differential and automatic) at the input? Maybe in general you have connected like this Automatic 63A - counter - difavtomat 50A. (this happens), and not as I said about a separate line to the electric stove. Only then, from 15 kW of power, 11 kW remains.
"And another question, what section of the cable will I need from the flap in the entrance to the flap in the apartment, I assume 16mm2 -?"
- Yes, you need at least 10 squares. 16 will be ok I think. Just check that the relay voltage (the first according to the diagram), firstly, withstands such a current, 63 amperes input, your relay also claims 63A. If it can't stand it, put the contactor on the input from the relay, provide free space in the switchboard for modernization. And secondly, it was able to clamp 16 mm² of wires in the terminal blocks.
Well, this is all that, purely nitpicking, everything is fine, except that there are a lot of machines) It is worth thinking "is it necessary"
In the figure, you just drew a zero bar on a non-disconnectable line from the RCD to the refrigerator?
I hope I haven't missed anything, just in case, ask leading questions to the places of your concern.
well, maybe that is, i.e. do you want the dif to be like the introductory one? in principle it is possible, everything after the counter is up to you.
You can and put, such RCDs with a high operating current are called fire-prevention. However, its installation is not critical.
I'm sorry, I didn't see your question, they just got lost in the general list of comments. Is the question still relevant?
The right two groups, where the TV and the computer are drawn and the nursery, did not decide to plant a type A RCD? Otherwise, everything is fine ...
