Gable roof system

click fraud protection

A gable roof is the kind of roof that meets most often. This is due to several reasons. Firstly, it is easy to build - even non-professionals will cope with it. Secondly, its device is very reliable. Thirdly, it perfectly "adapts" to any weather conditions.

There are three different types of gable roofs. The first: a symmetrical roof - it is the simplest in construction. The second one: broken line - is beneficial for those who want to use the loft as much as possible or protect from the vagaries of nature. Third: asymmetrical, when the skate of the roof is not carried out in the center of the house - beautiful and peculiar, but limits the use of the attic.

Elements of a gable roof

Elements of the gable roof

The angle of its slope is very important in the construction of a gable roof, which can be steep( if the house is built in a place with heavy rainfall) or flat( if the house is erected in a windy area).But most often the angle of inclination varies from 35 to 45 degrees - in this case there is a saving of building materials, and the load on the house is distributed more evenly.

The base for the roof is a Mauerlat - bar or log, fixed around the perimeter on top of the outer wall of the house. It is he who is responsible for the distribution of the roof load on the building.

Mounting of the Mauerlat - circuit

Mounting of the Mauerlat - Scheme

A rafter system is attached to the Mauerlat, which consists of vertical racks, rafter legs, crossbars, struts, inclined struts and ridge bars, combined into one.

Крепление стропил - методом "салазки"

Fastening of rafters - "skid"

All these components can be made both from wooden materials, and from iron or ferro-concrete.

Kinds of rafters

Varieties of rafters of gable roofs depend on what support bases for rafters are used.

Roof rafters

Roof rafters are possible if the house has a bearing wall per cent. If it is not, use poles as an intermediate support. At the edges of the rafters rest against the outer walls, in the center - on the supports.

Overhead rafters - photo

Hanging rafters

In the case of installation of such rafters, the gap between supports varies from six to six and a half meters. The edges of the rafters are attached to the outer walls.

It is also possible to install a mixed rafters system when both rafters are used.

Hanging rafters

Hanging rafters

This type of installation rafters helps to save on materials and makes the entire structure of the roof stronger.

By the way, about the materials. If a tree is used for the roof structure, then, without exception, beams and bars should not have knots or cracks!

Calculations

The reliability of the rafter system directly depends on the accuracy of the compiled calculations of the load on it of natural phenomena and its own weight. It is best to entrust this matter to specialists.

But if you need the most common double-skinned roof, you can try to calculate the load yourself. Only do this carefully and check it out more than once.

  1. We need to decide what will be the degree of the angle of the roof - the more steep it is, the more materials will be required for the construction of the roof.
  2. It is necessary to calculate the load force from snow and wind.
  3. It is necessary to calculate the total weight of the roof structure, including the crate, roofing and insulation.
  4. It is necessary to determine how many materials will be required and to develop roofing rules.

Dimensions

  1. Rafting leg. At a six-meter beam, the height should be 50 mm, and the width - 150 mm. If the length of the beam is larger, then its width should increase to 180 mm. Otherwise, the bar may break from its own weight.
  2. Mauerlat. The beam is 150 to 100 or 150 to 150.
  3. Ridge bar. A beam of 100 × 150 or a board of 50 × 150.

The progress of the

installation is 1 step. Securing the Mauerlat.

Before starting the fastening of the Mauerlat, it is necessary to ensure the waterproofing of the wall, especially if the house is wooden. This can be done with the help of special waterproofing materials, mastics or ordinary roofing material. Stepping back from the outer and inner edges of the wall, but closer to the inner wall is laid a bar - the future Mauerlat. On the outside for the Mauerlat, you need to make a barrier - for example, from bricks. If the house is wooden, it happens that the uppermost log is used instead of the Mauerlat.

Mauerlat spreads along the entire wall strictly in level and observing equal intervals between the bars. Fastening it to the wall can be done with anchor bolts, which are fastened during the installation of the reinforced belt. Bolts are pre-drilled in the uneven bars. Given that everything needs to be done according to the level, this is a very difficult task.

In order not to mess with anchor bolts, you can do it differently. Through drill the Mauerlat drill by 12, put it directly into the reinforced belt to a depth of 2 cm. In the resulting holes, you must cut the reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm at least 2 cm deep, and bend the remaining ends. You can do this with a sledgehammer.

If the Mauerlatt is fixed to the brickwork, then having receded two or three rows of bricks, a wooden bar is placed in them, to which the Mauerlat is fastened with the staples.

Step 2. Installation of rafters.

Parts of the truss system that will be in contact with the brickwork or blocks must be treated with special means to prevent decay.

The rafters are fixed to the Mauerlat and fixed by twisting from a 6 mm wire. First installed in place of rafters, which will be located at the edges of the roof. It is important not to forget to check their parallelism with a cord. Then you need to pull the same cord over the ridge and install the intermediate rafters, making sure they are flat. Near the chimney you need to keep the right distance, because the wooden beams of the rafters should be located not less than 13 cm from it on both sides.

Step 3. Installing the ridge.

The ends of the ridge are fixed on the gables of the house in the holes, the horizontality of which is carefully checked using the level. Its ends must be provided with waterproofing. Laying the ridge bar, you need to check its horizontality again - if there are deviations, put under its ends gaskets. Then we need to check the correspondence of the parallel between the ridge and the cut of the wall.

Fastening of the ridge is made with the help of metal brackets, corners or bolts.

Video - gable roof with your own hands

instagram viewer