Warming of the floor on the balcony

If the apartment has a balcony, then, probably, it is unreasonable not to take advantage of the opportunity to expand the useful area of ​​housing. With the right approach to the matter, it is possible to equip a small workshop, partially take out a kitchen in this room, or even convert a balcony into a small study or a resting place. Warming of the floor on the balcony - is one of the most important stages of transforming it into a living room.

This is even more important because the process of insulation and the associated conversion of the - is not so complicated, so it can be done on its own. However, it will be useless without any preparatory measures. And the first thing that the needs to do before starts warming the - is to strengthen or re-fold the outer wall and install the frames.

Preparatory work

• You need to start with a balcony floor audit - you may need certain actions to enhance it.

In many respects this depends, of course, on the very design of the balcony. If it does not have a lower support, then perhaps it makes sense to strengthen the plate with bracket-supports. However, this process is not always possible - will have to coordinate with neighbors living in an apartment located at the bottom. And some additional designs on their own territory will be of little help.

Sometimes an additional metal frame is placed on top of the concrete slab, which the reliably secures to the wall of the house. In this case, a significant part of the load is removed from the concrete slab of the floor.

If the slab of the balcony overlaps on both sides on concrete supports( walls), then there should be no further problems.

• An important point is the material from which the outer wall of the balcony is made. If it is just a metal grille covered with some thin sheet material, then most likely the will have to lay a wall of light foam. We must not forget that this becomes possible only if the floor plate rests on concrete vertical walls on both sides. In any case, such work of be carried out by without coordination with architectural services should not - the safety margin of the balcony may simply not be enough.

If the external partition is concrete, then you do not need to strengthen with its .

• Any further work on the insulation of the balcony will be meaningless if this room is not glazed. So, the next step should be the installation of a balcony ramp. As they will be - ordinary wooden, or modern metal-plastic with double-glazed windows - to solve the owner of the apartment , proceeding from own preferences and financial possibilities.
• With the installation of balcony frames, it is possible to embed slots and cracks - this process is necessary to protect the balcony from moisture penetration. It's no secret that even at the junctions of the capital boards there are sometimes quite large gaps - and this is a direct way to penetration of dampness, soaking up insulation materials, mold, and further erosion of building materials.

sealing rollers If the gaps between the plates are wide enough, long round cylinders of various diameters made of expanded polyethylene can be used to seal them. They are tightly pushed into the gaps, and then the seam from above is sealed with a sealant.

Such thermal rollers are also used to save installation foam. For embedding in this way, a small amount of foam is applied to the gap, and then the foamed polyethylene roller is immediately laid. With the expansion, the mounting foam tightly "seals" all small cracks and at the same time the fits well with sealing material.

If there are small slots in the , fill them with a regular sealant.

In addition to sealing the slots at the joints of the balcony, it is necessary to get rid of all the cracks and potholes that can be found on the floor and at the bottom of the wall.

floor surface. These flaws must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, small solid fragments, must primer coat for better grip. Then, they are filled with a sealant or a special cement-adhesive solution. If the slits are narrow, then they need to be expanded using a drill with a perforator or grinder with a stone circle - this is necessary for deeper penetration of the repair composition into the slot of the slab or wall.

After the repair compounds dry, proceed to priming the entire surface of the slab and the lower part of the walls( to a height of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) if the walls are all concrete. If the outer wall is composed of foam blocks, its should be primed completely, to the full height.

Waterproofing works

In any case, the next step is to arrange the with a reliable waterproofing on the entire floor area of ​​the balcony and on the lower part of the walls. Some hosts , probably in order to save money or time, prefer to do without this preparatory stage. It is necessary to warn them - abandoning the waterproofing measures, they significantly increase the risk of sk a pr moisture penetration under the heater. This will lead the to a sharp loss of thermal insulation qualities - the balcony will become cold. And besides is a probable appearance of fungus and mold that can spread to walls and floor covering. It is better not to risk - waterproofing does not take much time and money!

Waterproofing can be carried out in several ways. There are many options, and below are the most accessible and simple ones.

Molded waterproofing

Such waterproofing is carried out with the help of various - compositions. This can be a "water glass", foam epoxy , bitumen bitumen and many others. All these formulations are spilled over the surface and distributed using a rake or roller. Methods for applying a cast waterproofing may differ slightly - some formulations are applied in hot, and others - in a cold state.

Cast waterproofing is usually applied to several layers of , and the thickness of of its can reach up to 2 ÷ 3 mm. The next layer is applied only after the previous one has dried completely.

Before installing this waterproofing, the floor is well dried, 200-150 mm high beads are installed on the walls from a special thin waterproofing material or from a conventional polyethylene film .

If such a waterproofing is arranged in a "hot" way, then the composition is heated to the desired temperature, carefully puddles on the floor surface and quickly enough to equalize the rakley. Between the layers can be laid reinforcing mesh or fiberglass, then the waterproofing will be stronger.

When cold formulations are applied, the cc product is carried out in exactly the same way, but the composition is not preheated beforehand. In this case, drying out each of the layers will take much longer than with the hot method.

Soaking waterproofing

The coating or painting waterproofing can be carried out with bitumen mastics, polymer varnishes, "liquid rubber" and other compounds specially designed for this. Such a process is simple enough, but such insulation perfectly protects concrete surfaces from dampness.

Compositions are applied to the necessarily defatted and primed surface with a brush or brush .After full hardening, they form a film on the concrete slab .

This type of waterproofing can also be applied hot and cold:

- cold applied "liquid rubber", made on the basis of synthetic rubber , as well as waterproofing on epoxy basis;

- polymer-bitumen and bituminous compositions are applied hot.

The surface is always coated with these compounds in at least two layers.

gives good results. Such waterproofing completely corresponds to the characteristics necessary for floor protection. It is important to note that the coating of pure bitumen will last only five to seven years, as it does not tolerate low temperatures and is necessarily cracked. Therefore, for balconies it is better to choose waterproofing on rubber or polymer-bitumen base - these compounds are quite elastic and will last much longer.

Film waterproofing

This method is the easiest, because the plastic film is affordable and easy to install. Choose a dense material and cover the whole fabric on the floor surface, lifting it to the walls above the height of the future floor by 50 ÷ 100 mm. Secure film on the wall with the help of paint tape.

However, has one "but" - this material can be used only if the heater or lath under it will not be attached right through film , that is film must never be damaged in any way.

When laying on the corners its needs to be very neatly rolled - cut film can not.

Oak( roll) waterproofing

Materials pasting waterproof is produced in rolls or sheets. They are pasted on the floor surface and on the walls at height in 150 ÷ ​​200 cm. Such insulation can be on bitumen or polymer-bitumen basis. It is not difficult to lay this option, however needs heating the adhesive layer with a gas burner or the building hair dryer

The bituminous mastic is pre-applied with a bituminous paste in a layer of 1.5 - 2 mm, which is then heated, and a hot waterproofing compoundmaterial.

If there is a need, then several layers of the material are laid, which are smeared with mastic. In this case, the webs of the second layer are recommended to be located perpendicular to the first.

After laying the upper, last layer, the edges of the waterproofing material are treated with with polymer-based filler.

Another variant of waterproofing - is a roll material made using modern technologies and having a special adhesive strip.

When laying the overlaps the strips of this roll material, the protective film is previously removed from the back of the sheets. The canvas is applied by adhesive layer on the surface and well pressed.

When the base is ready, you can proceed to heating works.

The choice of insulation

Very important - from the modern wide variety of materials for insulation choose the correct the most optimal .

One of the main operational parameters of any thermal insulator is the coefficient of the thermal conductivity - the lower this value, the better the material in terms of room heat preservation:

Insulation material	Thermal conductivity coefficient,( W / m × K °)
Mineral wool	0,045-0,08
Ecowool( cellulose insulation)	0,038-0,046
Glass wool	0,033-0,06
Polyfoam( expanded polystyrene)	0,031-0,040
Expanded claydite	0.16
Ceramic concrete	0.31
Foam(expanded foam)	0,032-0,037

Expanded claydite

Ceramsite is used for insulation in of three in different versions:

• Large-fraction variant - for filling between logs before covering the floors with boards or plywood.

• Medium-frangible ceramsite - for the preparation of claydite-concrete , which also can fit between lags, on which will later be fastened to boards or plywood sheets. In addition, keramzitobeton can after pouring and just align with the beacons - in this case will approach as the basis for laying ceramic tiles.

• Fine-grained expanded clay is used most often for loose flooring, which is covered with with gypsum-fiber plates( GVL).

Penoflex

Penoflex - is a roll foamed polyethylene. It is produced both with a foil surface, and without it .Usually, when the balcony is insulated, this material is used as an auxiliary, fixing it on the walls and the floor over the waterproofing. First, it is attached to a double-sided adhesive tape, and then lath is laid on top of it.

The foil surface of the heater does not allow heat to escape into the walls - it is reflected back towards the room.

canvas is fastened together with foil tape, which makes the coating a single web.

Over this reflective material between log any - can be laid. This can be foam, mineral wool, eco-wool or dry claydite.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool - most common and often used insulation, as it has all the necessary qualities for use in the balcony - low thermal conductivity, lightness by weight, easy installation, and most importantly - ecological puritymaterial.

Mineral wool mats, straightening out when laying, cover all the gaps, so they do not need to be additionally sealed with foam.

To the general definition of "mineral wool" refers to: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool. All of them have excellent insulating and soundproof qualities. Са = my convenient in work is, probably, basalt stone wool - it is harmless to the skin of hands.

If desired, this insulation can be used in conjunction with other materials, which will give an enhanced effect t t insulation.

Styrofoam

It looks like a styrofoam( expanded polystyrene), everyone probably knows, as it is often used for insulation of buildings from the outside and from the inside.

A heat insulation material is produced with different density and thickness indicators. The lower the density, the higher the warming effect, but the more brittle and crumbling the material becomes - , it needs to be remembered, choosing it to insulate the balcony.

Foam is very easy by weight and quite convenient to install. It is easily cut with an ordinary clerical knife, which makes it easier to fit the plates to the desired size. Another one advantage of this heater is its low price.

When installing the material between the logs of the log, gaps can be formed, which must necessarily be fixed with a mounting foam, otherwise the warming effect will be significantly reduced.

Foam plastic t t You can also apply in combination with any of the existing insulation.

Steam insulation

If the insulation was made with mineral wool, it is recommended above it to lay the vapor barrier on the top , which will not allow moisture penetration into the insulation, but it will contribute to its evaporation from the inside, that is, it will allow the material to "breathe".

The film is stretched and fastened to the logs using staples stapled by the stapler. On the shown film of vapor barrier is shown under No. 5.

Carrying out the floor insulation on the balcony

To date, there are quite a number of insulation methods for turning a cold balcony into a small but cozy room.

Floor insulation with crate

The thermal insulation process using various insulators can follow the same principle. For example, when using expanded clay, polystyrene or mineral wool, it is recommended to perform crate from brusks or boards with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 mm.

To get started, you need to figure out how to install correctly, how to fix and how to raise the elements of the crate to the desired height.

• The first step determines the height at which the floor will be raised, minus the thickness of the flooring( floorboards or plywood).Usually, the floor is raised to the height of the door threshold of the opening.
• Next, you need to decide how the floor will be raised to the desired height:

- for the account width of the boards;

- for account installation of bars in two layers;

- the bars will be raised to the threshold level using special metal or plastic stand holders, or wooden pads.

• Having chosen one of the installation methods, it is necessary to prepare all the elements of the crate by marking and sawing boards or bars.
• Then, the parts must necessarily be treated with an antiseptic compound that will protect the wood from biodegradation and moisture effects.
• After the tree has been prepared and dried, you can proceed to the installation of a lath on the floor.

Variant No. 1

Special U-shaped elements made of a bent metal strip are used as racks. In the interval between the two shelves, the bar is fixed, raised to the desired height - holes for the screws are provided for this purpose.

These racks are installed at a distance from each other of 500 ÷ 600 mm, first along the walls, and then another one or two rows, depending on the width of the balcony - in the center. Holders are attached to the concrete floor using anchors.

Then, in the insulation mats( if mineral wool is used), cuts are made at the same distance as the shelf of the holder, and then "put on" on the metal element and pressed to the floor. When the heater is worn on all racks, the remaining floor between the rows is also densely filled with insulation material.

If necessary, the second layer is laid in the same way.

Next, in the holders set the bars, and then from two sides, through the holes are screwed with screws. It is very important to set the bars exactly on the level so that the raised floor is perfectly horizontal.

Option No. 2

Another option for lifting the crate to the desired height are the studs. They are screwed into the inserts installed in the concrete floors. Convenience of this method of fastening is that the projecting top has a thread with which the logs can be adjusted and set to the desired height. They are also exposed on the building level. The extra part of the stud, which remains from above, is cut with the of the grinder.

In this version, the insulation can easily be laid to the upper level of the log and after the studs are installed.

Instead of metal studs, PVC supports are often used, which are screwed into holes in the lags. However, in order to use such stands, it is necessary to use sufficiently wide bars for making logs, since plastic racks have a considerably larger diameter than the studs.

On the tubes of these supports, on the outside, there is a thread, with which they are screwed and adjusted in the bars.

Option No. 3

If you are not willing or able to bother with the above-described stands, you can use a design made independently of the bars. However, in order for the floor raised with this to be smooth, it is necessary to have an ideally horizontal surface of the concrete slab, since it will not be possible to adjust the individual its elements. The fastening of the bars in this construction is carried out with the help of metal corners. In addition, the bars running along the walls are fixed to them by anchor fasteners.

If the floor is not very even, you can align the floor of the on the top of the crate .To do this, you need to repel an ideally flat line on the wall and fix the side bars along it. If one of the legs on which the lath rests , rises above the surface of the floor plate, then under it it is necessary to lay a piece of plywood or a thin board.

Variant No. 4

If the floor is not planned to be lifted too high, the will fit the crate from two layers of bars laid perpendicular to each other. The first row of is fixed to the prepared surface, and the second one is attached to the blocks of the first row of .

First-row logs are often glued to the surface of a concrete slab using a mounting foam. The second row is recommended to be fixed to the first one only after laying the heater between the ,

guides. Option No. 5

The simplest way to arrange the crate for raising the floor on the balcony is the option using wide flat and thick boards that are fastened to the balcony plate, and also among themselves, with the help of a metal corner. The main - find the suitable dried material and put the finished crate in level.

When installing the structure, the boards are installed on the edge with an indent from the walls 50 ÷ 70 mm. In these clearances, the - is required to create the warm interlayer between the walls and the crate of the floor.

Between the guide rails , in any method of its arrangement, the insulation material is poured or deposited. In the case of the use of expanded polystyrene, the remaining cracks or embedded reinforcement foam, or densely zakopachivayutsya mineral wool.

After the insulation between the lags is completely laid, it is recommended to lay the layer of the film on top - it does not allow the to penetrate from below into the dust room or small pieces of thermal insulation material. After this, you can proceed to the flooring of the rough floor or immediately - "clean" floorboards.

Floor insulation without of the

crate. floor is referred to as loose floor , which is made using the "dry screed" technology. Recently, this approach is increasingly used to insulate the floors in private homes and apartments. Completely will approach it and for the conditions of the balcony.

When deciding to arrange a bulk floor, waterproofing layer of polyethylene will be mandatory. It can be used in addition to other types of waterproofing.

The film is fixed to the wall with a double-sided adhesive tape around the perimeter of the balcony, and then a damper tape is attached, which compensates for all variations in the floor covering with temperature differences when the material can expand.

In addition, you need to establish on the walls beacons, by which the rule will equal the bulk material.

After the basis for "dry screed" will be arranged, you can pour parts of the clay slightly above the level of installed beacons.

Then, the poured mass is leveled, and from is laid on top of with special panels from gypsum fiber , on which there are special locking parts for interconnection.

For fixation between each other, the joints of the boards are glued with "liquid nails" or other polymer adhesive compounds.

On top of this insulated floor, you can put almost any finish coat that will be appropriate on the balcony.

Finish flooring

The floor covering laid on the insulated floor of the balcony , will become yet with one layer that will help maintain a comfortable room temperature.

Cover insulated floor can be chosen for the taste of the owner of the apartment, but it is better to use a material that can create a comfortable feeling when walking on it even without shoes.

Wooden flooring will be especially effective, as wood has natural heat due to the multilayered structure. Therefore, such coverage is most often found on insulated balconies.

Well is suitable for and plywood, which after laying is covered with carpet, laminate or with warm linoleum.

Video: work on the insulation of the floor on the balcony or loggia

Work on the insulation of the floor on the balcony can be done independently. Slowly, carrying out step-by-step guidance within the framework of the chosen option, you can even in the absence of experience to cope with this work for 3 ÷ 5 days.