Sliding doors with their hands: single-leaf interior doors, and other types of video and photo

Sliding doors with their hands - 3 options for independent production

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Table of contents

  • 1 Classification of sliding doors
    • 1.1 Design for interior doors
  • 2 mount technology
    • 2.1 The choice of tools and materials
    • 2.2 Preparation of the opening and the door leaf
    • 2.3 Option 1: Installation of suspended doors
    • 2.4 Option 2: installation of sliding doors
    • 2.5 Option 3: Set the sliding door in niche
  • 3 conclusion
Sliding doors do not take up space and fit harmoniously into the interior design.

Sliding doors do not take up space and fit harmoniously into the interior design.

You want to purchase and then install the sliding door with his own hands? I'll tell you what are the types of sliding doors, and describe their advantages and disadvantages. In addition, three variants of manufacturing these doors, which you can easily implement on their own.

Classification of sliding doors

In modern construction and furniture industry uses several types of sliding doors:

  • Single- or double-leaf interior doors - one or two flaps are arranged in one plane and moved along a common guide;
  • cascading design - several flaps are moved one after the other for a variety of guides in several planes;
  • radius doors - are made up of one or two rounded wings, which move on the guide radius;
  • sliding doors compartment - two flaps are moved parallel to each other on different guides in different planes;
  • sliding Folding - each flap consists of several articulated vertical fragments. When opening they form an angle relative to each other.
Of all the types of sliding doors, the first and second options are best suited to independent production.

Of all the types of sliding doors, the first and second options are best suited to independent production.

Design for interior doors

Depending on the method of assembly and location of the fixing points, interior doors, sliding doors are divided into three types:

  1. Suspension design - each movable flap is attached to the wall only at the top of Multi-roller suspensions:
  • Suspensions are moved by a common horizontal rail, which is mounted above the doorway;
  • The floor mounted the lower guide box, which is inserted into a longitudinal groove in the lower end of the door;
  • It positions the two flaps on the same plane, and keeps them from swaying sideways.

Benefits:

  • A simple and lightweight construction;
  • Quick installation;
  • Low cost accessories.

Disadvantages:

  • Gapping door to the opening leads to the formation of drafts and deterioration of thermal and acoustic insulation properties;
  • When opening the possible misalignment or falling off with a door guide;
  • Not suitable for the installation of bulky and heavy sashes.
The upper guide takes all the weight load of the suspension leaves.

The upper guide takes all the weight load of the suspension leaves.

  1. Sliding design - differs from the previous embodiment by multiple support rollers and the lower guide:
  • It is fastened to the floor or to the bottom end of the door;
  • Support rollers are installed at the bottom of each door, and roll on the floor or on the lower guide rails;
  • Thus, the main load of the weight of the door panels have to lower the roller mechanism and the upper hangers serve only to retain the flaps in a vertical position.

Benefits:

  • The absence of backlash and stable position in the open doors closed;
  • Snug fit wings to the doorway provides better heat and sound insulation;
  • More uniform stress distribution reduces the wear of moving parts;
  • This design can be used to install large and heavy doors.

Disadvantages:

  • More complex device and the high price of the sliding system;
  • For mounting the lower guide part is required to alter the flooring;
  • Over time, the guide rails can become clogged debris and sand.
Sliding doors are more reliable, since the load of the weight of the valves is transmitted to the floor.

Sliding doors are more reliable, since the load of the weight of the valves is transmitted to the floor.

  1. penile construction - sliding system of this type is mounted in a recess (pencil box), so that the door in the open position are hidden inside the wall:
  • Pencil made of plasterboard and is installed inside or behind a door opening;
  • By carrying frame guides fastened to the canister and outboard support rollers;
  • The rest of this design repeats previous versions.

Benefits:

  • Good heat and sound insulation properties;
  • Open the door wing are hiding from the eyes and does not spoil the appearance of the interior;
  • For opening the door does not require additional space;
  • The closed construction of the sliding mechanism protects it from dirt, sand and dust.

Disadvantages:

  • Production of the canister will require more time and additional costs;
  • In some cases, installation of the canister reduces the size of an existing doorway.
The penile design load of the weight of the door is evenly distributed over the base plate.

The penile design load of the weight of the door is evenly distributed over the base plate.

Everything for penile construction of sliding doors can be used as pendant and sliding roller mechanisms.

mount technology

The choice of tools and materials

Self-installation of the sliding door - a simple matter. For this you need a common set of tools in the home workshop:

Illustration Set of tools
table_pic_att14954903710 Power:
  1. Electric drill with drill bits;
  2. Bulgarian discs on metal and wood;
  3. Rotary hammer with a set of drills 6-12 mm in diameter;
  4. Hand router with a set of cutters on wood;
  5. Cordless Screwdriver with a set of replaceable nozzles;
  6. Cut machine for wood (parketka).
Hand tools:
  1. Hammer average weight of 200-300 grams;
  2. Screwdriver flat and shaped slot;
  3. Pliers or plier;
  4. Cutting pliers or cutters;
  5. Hacksaw with replaceable blades;
  6. Set of wrenches size 8-22 mm;
  7. Broad and narrow chisel;
  8. Rubber or wooden mallet.
table_pic_att14954903771 Measuring tools:
  1. Tape length 3 m;
  2. Metal ruler;
  3. Building level;
  4. Metallic or wooden square;
  5. Rope plummet;
  6. Drawing pencil.
table_pic_att14954903782 fasteners:
  1. Set of plastic dowels and screws with a diameter of 6-10 mm;
  2. Screws wood head with a diameter of 3.5-6 mm p'o-t'ai;
  3. Screws for gypsum boards;
  4. Finishing nails with a fine hat.

Fastening of the roller mechanisms must be sold complete with sliding system.

For finishing the doorway and decorative facing sliding system will need to purchase a few bars and a set of wooden or plastic casings.

Preparation of the opening and the door leaf

you can buy a new door panel for the installation of retractable design, but you can use the existing swing doors, which you had previously installed:

Illustration Description of work
table_pic_att14954903793 door Preparation:
  1. If you are using an old swing doors, then it is necessary to remove the mounted hinges, door handles, locks and all available accessories;
  2. The opening of the old hardware paste insertion of plywood or wooden planks;
  3. After that, the old door need to putty and then paint or paste over self-adhesive film;
  4. The front end of the sash to install new hardware for sliding doors (recessed handles, lock, etc.).

Accessories are not sold complete with sliding system, so it will have to buy separately.

table_pic_att14954903794 Preparation of the opening:
  1. Unit side sliding door, the wall is necessary to remove the casings;
  2. The internal height dimension and the width of the opening must be 60 mm smaller than the door leaf;
  3. If this is not the case, the entrance portal of the opening should be reduced;
  4. To do this, the inside of the slopes have to fix the frame of the boards or wooden bars.
table_pic_att14954903825 Geometrical dimensions:
  1. The upper slope should be strictly horizontal;
  2. The side slopes should be strictly vertical and parallel to each other;
  3. The deviation from the vertical and horizontal level should be less than 2 mm;
table_pic_att14954903856 plinth:
  • Its thickness should be not more than 23 mm;
  • If the bathroom has a wider plinth, they have to be replaced.
table_pic_att14954903897 Adjoining walls:
  • The wall around the opening must be strictly vertical with a maximum deviation of less than 5 mm;
  • The opening area of ​​the door, the width of the flap must be no foreign objects (furniture, lamps, paintings, switches, etc.).

Option 1: Installation of suspended doors

Shown below is an illustrated step by step instructions describing the technology of installation of single-hanging door:

Illustration Description of work
table_pic_att14954903928 Set for single door:
  1. Movable carriage with rollers - 2 pcs .;
  2. Mounting platform for attaching carriages - 2 pcs .;
  3. Suspension adjusting bolt with a locking nut - 2 ps .;
  4. Bottom guide box - 1 pcs .;
  5. Side stops with the stopper - 2 pcs .;
  6. Horizontal rail made of aluminum profile (photo not shown).
table_pic_att14954903979 Preparation of the door leaf:
  1. At the lower end of the door leaf to select a groove width of 7 mm and 20 mm deep;
  2. It must be held strictly end along the axial line;
  3. For the sample which is to use a hand router with a cutter diameter of 7 mm;
  4. If you do not have the router, it can be done parketkoy grinder or with a disk on a tree.
table_pic_att149549040110 Fastening assembly platforms:
  1. To the upper end of the door to fix two mounting platform;
  2. They should be spaced 45 mm from each edge;
  3. Cutout on each platform should be turned to the wall.
table_pic_att149549040511 Preparation guide.
  1. Upper guide fasten the wooden bar section 40x40 mm;
  2. To have to use screws 4x25 mm;
  3. The distance between the screws should be not more than 150 mm.
table_pic_att149549040912 Installation guide:
  1. Wooden beam, together with the guide to fix to the wall above the access opening;
  2. For fixing use plastic dowels and screws 6x100 mm;
  3. The guide should be fastened horizontally on a level;
  4. The upper part of the timber should be at the level of the floor: Door height + 90 mm.
table_pic_att149549041213 Facing the opening:
  1. The front part of the door opening and slopes oblitsevat trims;
  2. To mount is best to use finishing nails;
  3. The upper horizontal casing until you need to install;
  4. By the side door platbands from sticking brush seal self-adhesive base.
table_pic_att149549041514 The guide box:
  1. It needs to be fixed to the floor using two self-tapping screws;
  2. The transverse center line flag must pass through the inner edge of the casing;
  3. The distance from the front plane of the casing to the longitudinal center line should be 32 mm.
table_pic_att149549041915 Installation of sliding systems:
  1. Each roller carriage to insert one suspension bolt;
  2. Inside the guide to have a front stopper;
  3. Next, make two roller carriage nuts down;
  4. At the end of the insert into the back stop with the stopper.
table_pic_att149549042216 Hanging cloth:
  1. At first it is necessary to have a guide box into the slot in the end of the door;
  2. Then start the suspension bolts roller carriages in the slot at the installation site;
  3. After that, by means of two keys on a 13 slightly tighten the nuts on the suspension bolts.
table_pic_att149549042717 Adjusting the door:
  1. When the door is hanging in place to adjust its position with the nuts on the suspension bolts;
  2. Front and rear stops put into position and lock with a hex wrench;
  3. Then finally tighten the nuts of the suspension bolts;
  4. In conclusion, it is necessary to nail the top casing and mounted on the side slope of the reciprocal of the castle.

Installation sliding double doors is performed in the same way. In this case, over the inlet opening is mounted a common horizontal rail of greater length.

Option 2: installation of sliding doors

Below I'll show you how to make a sliding door, in which the lower support rollers can ride directly on the hard floor covering (parquet, laminate). In this case, the lower guide is not used, which eliminates many problems at once.

Illustration Description of work
Technical features:
  1. Homemade doors for installation will not work, so you should use a cloth factory manufacturing;
  2. At the lower end it has two deep sampling, among which are milled longitudinal groove;
  3. At the top on the inside there is another sampling to set the guide profile.

Options on one flap:

  1. Plastic insert with supporting rollers - 2 pcs .;
  2. The upper guide of the aluminum profile - 1 MP .;
  3. The upper roller assembly to the mounting platform - 1 pc .;
  1. U-shaped profile for guiding flag - 1 MP .;
  2. Plastic guide box - 1 pcs .;
  3. Set of accessories (decorative covers, Mortise handles detents and so on.).
table_pic_att149549043018 Installing the support rollers:
  1. Inside each sample by the edges of the door to insert the plastic plugs and secure the two screws.
  2. The stub roll set previously placing it on the spring plate;
  3. Each roller fixed in a plastic insert two screws.
table_pic_att149549043319 Flag guide:
  1. Measure the distance between plastic inserts and saw off from the U-shaped profile section of this length;
  2. Insert profile all the way into the longitudinal groove on the bottom web;
  3. Several screws to fix it in p'o-t'ai 3,5h19 mm.
table_pic_att149549043620 The upper guide:
  1. The upper aluminum profiles enclose the sample in the door, and noted its length;
  2. It should be 6 mm shorter than the width of the sash;
  3. Profile saw off to the desired length and attach to the top of the door with screws countersunk.
table_pic_att149549044121 Finish the opening:
  1. Measure the height of the door and add to the resulting size of 5 mm;
  2. Put it away from the floor and put a mark on the wall above the door opening;
  3. This label will need to install a roller assembly;
  4. Assemble the door frame and set it in the opening so that the upper edge of the casing did not reach 3 mm to set the mark;
  5. Before installing trims the space between the slopes and fill the box with foam.
table_pic_att149549044622 The upper roller assembly:
  1. Upper platform with rollers fixed in the left corner of the wall above the door opening with three screws;
  2. Its lower edge must be at a level set by tags;
  3. Between the intermediate casing and the platform must remain 3 mm gap.
table_pic_att149549044823 Installation of door closers:
  1. The top guide on both sides set with plastic stoppers closers;
  2. Along the edges closed decorative caps and secure with a hex wrench;
  3. Hang the door leaf on top of the guide roller assembly.
table_pic_att149549045324 The guide box:
  1. At floor level to measure distance from the wall to the center line of the door;
  2. At this distance the floor to fix a plastic box;
  3. Its transverse center line must pass through the center of the left casing.
table_pic_att149549045725 door installation:
  1. At the end it is necessary to simultaneously hang the fabric on the upper rollers and the lower profile to impose on the plastic box;
  2. Roller door is held by its own weight, thus further strengthen its not necessary.
table_pic_att149549046026 Single-wing sliding doors after installation.

When you open the web is a bit skewed, it can be corrected by adjusting the screws on the upper pulley.

Vertically sliding door with their hands mounted in the same way, only the roller assembly and guide the box to the right valve must be installed in mirror image.

Option 3: Set the sliding door in niche

In this section, I will discuss how to make the sliding doors in the pencil case. This option is well suited for interior partitions built-in wardrobe or a plasterboard wall:

Illustration Description of work
table_pic_att149549046127 Interior walls:
  1. Suspension frame for partitions penile doors should have a thickness of not less than 100 mm;
  2. To do this, use a floor and ceiling rails profiles 100 mm wide;
  3. Rack profiles on the contrary we must take the narrow, width 28 mm;
  4. In the place where the case for the door supporting frame walls must be double-layered;
  5. The distance between the body inside the frame profiles must be at least 40 mm.
table_pic_att149549046628 The upper guide:
  1. Bearing beam to guide it must be made of double profiles 40 mm wide;
  2. To enhance the paste inside the wooden beams of the same section;
  3. To secure the bottom of the beam guide screws in increments of no more than 200 mm;
  4. Its length must be equal to the width of the opening plus the width of each of the sliding sash.
table_pic_att149549046929 Installation guide:
  1. Beam with the guide profile to fix with screws to each rack inside the vertical frame;
  2. Bottom rail should be located at: Door height plus 30 mm from the finished floor.
table_pic_att149549047430 Preparing the door panels:
  • To the upper end of each flap to fix two mounting platform;
  • To attach the lower end of the aluminum profile with a brush seal and the groove for a guide flag;
  • A guide box itself anchored to the floor along the axial line inside the door supporting frame.
table_pic_att149549047831 Door installation:
  1. Inside the guide the two sides to have the front abutment with the stopper, then the two roller carriage and back stop with the stopper;
  2. The slot mounting plates make the suspension bolts and hang each leaf to the roller carriages;
  3. Adjust the height of the door and tighten the suspension bolts;
  4. Set in the right position the front and rear stoppers, and fix them with an Allen key;
  5. Partition sew on both sides of plasterboard, and perform final finishing of the walls.

On top of the door opening, I advise you to leave a narrow strip of removable drywall. It will provide access to the caster mechanism for maintenance and repair.

conclusion

Now you know what to install sliding doors with their hands can master any home without practical skills and special tools. I recommend to watch the video in this article, and all your requests and questions in the comments, I'm waiting.