Working with gipsokarton own hands the erection of walls and partitions

Working with gypsum board with own hands walls that can be perfectly aligned, or apply it to erect light strong partition - is completely available even for a beginner builder. Gypsum plasterboard is excellent for finishing the concrete walls of apartments of high-rise buildings and leveling curved surfaces in private houses. This material can reduce high earshot from the street and additionally heat insulate the enclosing structures.

A great advantage of drywall in front of other finishing materials is the fact that it can create a whole set of niches and shelves built into the wall, to perform the original arched constructions.

The alignment process using this material is carried out in two ways - by fixing the plasterboard sheets to the skeleton crate or by gluing GKL to the wall using a special gypsum-based installation.

If the process of leveling surfaces using stucco solutions requires high enough skills, and with

on the walls of large differences - even extraordinary skill, then work with gypsum cardboard in such a comparison can easily be called simple. The main in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation steps.

To fix the walls without hitching and difficulties, you need to prepare well for this event, purchase in all the necessary materials and tools , as well as studying the installation instructions for this or that design.

Preparing the surface of the walls before alignment, too, will not be superfluous, especially since it does not take much time and effort, but will bring great benefit.

What will it take to work?

Tools for installing drywall

For the installation of plasterboard structures, cnsocio tools, and , for bonding material need fewer of them than to be fastened to the frame.

In order not to repeat and create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with a little refinement.

• Shurupova rt for i mount the frame and fasten the drywall on to the crate .
• A spatula of medium size for applying putty and glue.
• Toothed spatula for adhesive distribution by sheet tops.
• Laser or conventional building level - for marking and monitoring the smoothness of the wall being mounted.
• Acute construction or clerical knife - for cutting material.
• Electric drill with perforator and drill bits for concrete - for fixing the frame structure to floors, walls, floor.
• Nozzle mixer for kneading glue( if using its gypsum cardboard to be fixed to the wall) and putty compounds.
• Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
• Capacity for adhesive , approximately , for 8 liters.
• Shears for cutting metal - for cutting galvanized profiles.
• Planer for processing edges - removing chamfer.
• Grout for processing embedded joints between sheets.
• Sanding machine - "Bulgarian" and di ck for I cutting thin metal.
• Ascutter - for fastening metal profiles to each other.

• frame. The rule that verifies the smoothness of the surface.
• Measurement and control instrument - tape measure , plumb line, long metal ruler, square, simple pencil or marker.

Materials for working with plasterboard

The materials will need to be purchased:

• Drywall, which must be ordered for 10-15% more than the required quantity.

Drywall is manufactured by four species, and each of them is designed for use in different rooms depending on operating conditions. The sheets have their own recognized color marking system, which can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:

. Gray has a regular drywall( GKL) used in residential areas with normal air humidity.

- Pink or light purple cardboard color indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for walling around fireplaces and stoves. It is defined by the acronym GKLO .

- Green shades are inherent in moisture resistant material that is suitable for wall finishing, for example in the bathroom. It is indicated by the letters of the GKLV .

- Dark gray or blue color is assigned to plasterboard, which combines quality and heat resistance, and moisture resistance. This type is designated with the letters GKLVO , and it is used for finishing the walls of baths or boiler houses.

The dimensions of sheets of different types of drywall vary as follows:

Type of drywall	Thickness in mm	Width in mm	Sheet length in mm
GKL	8,0;9.5;12.5, 14;16	1200	standard - 2000( on request - up to 4000 mm)
18 and more	600
GKLV	10;12.5;14; 16	1200
GKLO	12.5;14;16	600
GKLVO	12,5;14;16	1200

• Metal profile for installation of the wall birch or frame skeleton assembly.

Profile	Appearance	Profile type	Application
Guide		Mon 50/40	Guide profiles of the carcass for facing the walls and creating partitions.
ПН 75/40
ПН 100/40
Rack		ПН 50/50	Racks of a skeleton of partitions and a lath of walls.
Mon 75/50
Mon 100/50
Ceiling		PP 60/27	Frame of walls and false ceilings.
Guide		Mon 28/27
Protective angled profile		PU 20/20	Protects the outer corners of partitions and walls.
Note: in the profile marking, the first number indicates the width, the second height of the element. Profiles are produced with a standard length of 3000 mm.

• Direct suspension - for fixing the racks to the wall, if it is necessary to create a large thickness of insulation or to level the wall with large differences.

• Sealing tape, which is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.

• Dry construction mortar is a mounting adhesive for fixing plasterboard to walls without installing of the .

• Primer for pre-treatment of walls before installation of drywall and for preparation of assembly mounted to further putty .

• Putty on gypsum-based - for sealing joints between sheets and subsequent finishing of the gypsum board wall.
• Reinforcing tape or mesh - for sizing joints with with their plastering .

• Special screws for working with plasterboard.

• Dowels for securing profile racks on a brick or concrete wall, ceiling, semi.

• is best. Thermal insulation material - if it is planned to insulate or to soundproof the wall or partition.

Preparatory measures

Whatever method of mounting drywall on the wall has been chosen, it is absolutely necessary to prepare the surface before installing it. This is necessary to ensure that under the plasterboard did not develop mold or fungus, and when sticking the material - , it snug against the wall. The preparation process is not that difficult, but it will guarantee a long operation of the new wall without carrying out repairs.

The work can be conditionally divided into three stages - is cleaning the walls, sealing up cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.

• The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings, such as old peeling plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is sound and well adheres to the wall, then its can only be primed.
• Cleaning can be carried out with a spatula. If you have to remove the wallpaper, then they are recommended to be thoroughly soaked by applying water to the surface with a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper is soaked, they will move away from the wall more easily if they are picked up with a spatula.
• If the plaster layer is not reliable , unstable, peel off, cover t t with the cracks, then the damaged must be removed. This can be done in two ways:

- The first option is to shoot down the old finish with a perforator, or manually - chisel and hammer.

- The second option is a plentiful wetting of the plaster and a neat detachment of the from its from the wall with a spatula.

• If a brick wall is aligned with the drywall, then with it it is necessary to remove all the protrusions that could remain on it after the masonry was completed. The protuberances will interfere with the good adhesion of the sheets to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down by a conventional hammer or with a perforator.

After this, the brick wall needs to be thoroughly cleaned with iron from residues of sand and cement mortar and dust.

• Further, if the is found on the wall, serious cracks should be expanded, cleaned, primed, and after its drying - is filled with a plaster mixture, sealant or assembly foam. The last variation nt pr names in the event that a crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
• The next stage the wall needs to be treated with an antiseptic primer. It is applied with a roller.

• . All further work is carried out after the surface of the wall has dried completely.

Aligning walls by gluing drywall

Installing drywall with - is much easier than installing it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is possible only if the wall surface does not have significant unevenness and deformation in the form of protrusions and recesses more than 5 mm, and the ceiling level in the room does not exceed 3 meters.

Not will approach this way of installation even when the wall is supposed to to soundproof the or to insulate, as materials for this will require of certain space under drywall sheets.

This method is well suited for leveling not very high-quality walls to an ideal and creating a smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of decorative finishing material.

Adhesive work is carried out as follows:

• The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If there are dents on the wall, they must necessarily be brought to the same level with a common surface, since in these places, after installing the drywall, voids can be formed where condensate will be collected. Especially it is important to do this in cases where the exterior wall is being trimmed.

Bring all grooves and dents to one level with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200 ÷ 300 mm from each other and up to one level with the entire wall. Then, a plaster solution of the desired thickness is applied from above and equaled by the self-tapping screws and the rest of the surface.

self-tapping screws. Before proceeding to the next stage of the work, it is necessary to wait until the solution has hardened, as it will be supported by a gypsum board.

• The next step of the is the application of the with a single primer layer.

Primer will not only protect the wall from various biological effects, but also create reliable adhesion between the wall, the adhesive and the plasterboard, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.

• Next, the mounting adhesive solution is mixed. To do this, pours room temperature water into the , into which a dry powder mixture is poured and mixed with a construction mixer or drill with a nozzle mounted on it. Proportion of the preparation of the solution, its manufacturer must specify in the instructions for manufacturing, which can always be found on the package.

It is very important to remember that glue on the gypsum base very quickly starts to solidify, so it is better to mix it in small portions, otherwise a large amount of solution can be spoiled. If process with starts , it can not be stopped, even adding extra water in an emergency.

• Further, it is required to provide that the drywall sheet does not rest against the floor surface during installation, it should be raised from it by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. Therefore under the mount is installed a rack of this thickness.
• The sheet of plasterboard is laid horizontally on the floor, and glued mass is applied pointwise to it, by slides, at a distance of 180 ÷ 200 mm one from the other. After that, the solution is distributed a little, the sheet rises, is installed in the right place and is pressed against the wall.

• The installed sheet of gypsum board can be adjusted, trim in the range of 7 ÷ 10 mm, for example, tapping it with a building level or rule. If remains an uncovered space on top of the ( and it often happens), then it will be best to lined with fragments of GCR only after the installation of whole, directing sheets of plasterboard is completed.

• wall. Further, the work is done by the in the same order. All sheets are installed to each other butt-end, with the adjoining factory chamfers. Additional fragments cut from sheets, chamfers at the place of cutting, it is clear, do not have. There is no of its and on the end faces of the GKL.So, for such docking its needs to be made independently using a plane or knife.
• After the is finished, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the lined walls are left for about a day.
• After this you can proceed to sealing joints. First they are recommended to be treated with a primer, and then, after drying the soil, the joints of the sheets are glued with a serpentine net that reinforces the joints, and the layer applied does not crack on top.

	Preparatory work is in progress. Wall is cleaned from peeling plaster and treated with a primer. When the wall is plastered with gypsum board, whether it is a structure with or without a heater, it is necessary to cover the base surface with an antiseptic compound. Next, the wall needs to be marked, indicating on it vertical lines, which will serve as a guide for the installation of racks. The distance between the drains is assumed equal to 400 or 600 mm - these values ​​fit well into the standard width of the gypsum board 1200 mm.
	The next stage on the ceiling and floor fixed guide profiles, which will be installed and fixed racks.
	Profiles can be attached to the floor, walls and ceiling with dowels, depending on the surface material - piling or screwed. The profiles can be fixed to wooden bases with
	screws. To improve the quality of noise insulation, to prevent the transfer of vibrations to the frame and to resonate the gypsum board, it is recommended that a special tape is attached to its surface adjacent to the shelf before fixing the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall.
	By fixing the top and bottom guides on the flow and the floor perfectly accurately in one vertical plane( this is necessarily controlled with a plumb bob), you can proceed to the installation of the racks. It should be remembered that how accurately the guides will be exposed, the entire plasterboard wall will be so smooth.
	The frames of the frame are installed inside the guides, they are exposed along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed with the help of a cutter. If there is no such tool, then the fastening can be done using
	self-tapping screws. In this photo, the mounted frame is clearly visible, but it is not yet fixed to the wall with the help of hangers.
	Further, each of the racks must be fixed with several straight suspensions. These brackets are fixed to the wall by dowels at a distance from each other vertically of 500 ÷ 600 mm.
	Then, with the help of self-screws, the posts are fixed to the suspensions( the verticality of the profile must be checked once again). This makes the construction rigid, connected with the capital wall.
	In this photo the racks of the whole frame are fixed to the wall, and the crate is ready for further work.
	The protruding parts of the hangers are bent to the sides. When the crate is ready, all communication wiring can be laid, if, for example, it is planned to mount sockets or switches on this wall.
	If the wall is additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is finished, a thermo-insulating material is laid between the columns - mineral wool. Next, the insulation is always closed with a vapor barrier membrane. On the wooden crate it is fastened with a stapler and staples, and on a metal crate - using a double-sided paint or mounting tape.
	After this, go to the installation of drywall. The lower sheets according to the technology are recommended to be installed with a clearance of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, temporary lining, for example, a wooden rail, can be used during installation. This is necessary to ensure that the sheet from below does not crumble under its own weight. Typically, the height of the sheet is not enough to cover all the space of the wall to the ceiling - there will be a section on top that will be closed later by a separate fragment. It is recommended that the sheets, beginning with the second and further, be laid "in a runaway", so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one from the top - the next from the bottom and the like. An example is shown in the figure.
	Drywall is fixed with special screws, which are screwed into the profiles directly through the sheet, without pre-drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers( if any).In this case, the screw should not be located closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. The self-tapping screw must be "drowned" in the gypsum board approximately 1 mm after screwing in. The distance between the screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If the self-tapping screw "did not go off," after removing it into the same hole, you can not twist the other - you need to retreat to the side no less than 50 mm.
	This photo clearly shows the remaining unfilled plasterboard area, and it must be closed. For this, it is necessary to install a crossbeam from the profile between the posts, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the underside of the missing fragment will be fastened.
	To fix the cross member to the racks, it is possible to fix specially made corner sections from the sections of the profile.
	The ready-made cross-piece is installed between the posts, half retracted under the installed sheet and fastened to the corners using a cutter or self-tapping screws.
	Another option for making a jumper. Measure and cut from the profile a segment equal to the distance between the posts plus the width of the rack profile, since the wide part of the cross member must be on the posts between which it will be fastened. Then, the side rails of the crossbar are cut at a distance equal to half the width of the profile, and bend outward at a right angle. These will become the shelves through which the fastening is carried out with the help of a cutter or
	screws. A piece of gypsum board of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After that, it is attached to the posts and the upper part of the installed cross member. A chamfer is made at the edges of the sheets at the junction with the help of a sharp knife or a planer - this is necessary in order to be able to smoothly splice the line of splicing. This chamfer is made on all edges, where it is not provided by the very construction of the sheet. Fragments are attached with screws according to the usual rules.
	The plasterboard-bound wall should look like this.
	After that, the mesh is patched on all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all shanks must be shpaklyuyutsya, from the screws of the screws so that they later did not show rusty stains through the decorative finish. The final stage of the work is the covering of all the walls covered with gypsum boards with a primer, and after it has dried, putty.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

	The first step determines the location of the partition, its marking is carried out. For this, points on the wall and on the floor using a laser or a conventional level and a roulette are determined, which are then combined in a line by using a painted paint strip.
	Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, using the plumb bob points for marking off the marking and on the ceiling.
	Immediately need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor to install perfectly vertical racks. The fixing of the horizontal rail on the floor is carried out only before and after the measured area allocated for the doorway.
	After accurate marking of all surfaces, the area of ​​fastening of metal profiles will be immediately visible. The first to the walls, ceiling and floor fixed guides, which will then be installed racks.
	These elements are fixed using dowels( wood screws use self-tapping screws). First through holes drilled through holes, and then they are embedded and clogged dowels( screwed screws).
	Next, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install racks that will dent the doorway. In these profiles it is recommended to make tabs from a wooden beam immediately. Racks are installed from floor to ceiling and fixed in the guide screws, which are screwed on both sides.
	It's even better if two racks combined with joists are installed side by side. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable.
	The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway, where the cross member, which completes its formation, will be fixed. For this purpose, the profile is cut at the corners, the lateral parts are bent and fixed to the posts.
	In order to give rigidity to the crossbeam and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to the guide fixed to the ceiling by one or two short posts.
	Further, all other racks are installed in the rails and fixed strictly in the vertical position with the help of a cutter or self-tapping screws. The pitch between the posts is the same as that specified in the previous instruction - 400 or 600 mm.
	After installing the racks, you can proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. They are installed and fixed on the same principle, as in the case of wall paneling. Do not cut the drywall in the area of ​​the doorway. It will be more convenient to fix a solid sheet on the frame, and make incisions on it with a sharp knife.
	The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the side, the longer one, only the cardboard is cut - then it will break exactly according to the nadzire.
	After completing the installation of drywall sheets on one side, it is possible to engage in communication cables for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles, with the expectation that a tube with wires( corrugated or smooth-walled) pass through them. It is forbidden to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a tube sleeve.
	In the selected location, where the layout of the outlets and switches is planned, on the installed sheets of the GCR, holes for the mounting of the sub-wall are drilled. They are cabled.
	If this was planned, the thermal and sound insulation material( mineral wool) will be laid. Insulation panels or mats should be installed between the racks.
	After completing the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are gently driven into the gaps between it and the frame, which will help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame racks. If large gaps remain around it, they need to be filled with mounting foam, wait for it to dry out, and gently cut off the surplus.
	After that the drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. The principle of installation does not change. Drywall on the doorway is fixed and cut out the same way as in the previous case.
	The final stage before the primer and puttying of the entire surface is the sealing of joints between sheets and holes from the screws of self-tapping screws.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

Apply a thin layer of putty with to the mesh-seamed joints with a spatula. Better than all its its immediately to the maximum level, so that after hardening there was less work on smoothing.

If the serpulcan tape does not have its own glue base, then where putty is first applied to the joint, and a serpanka is applied on top of and then the spatula is squeezed into the solution, after which the excess is removed.

• When putty dries, its is wiped with a special tool - grout , on which sandpaper with fine grain or abrasive mesh is installed.

After sealing and drying of seams, the whole surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.

Next, the plasterboard surface must be plastered with .This will improve the quality of any wall finishing.

Quality putty is the guarantee of the aesthetic appearance of the drywall

. Whatever technology is used to install the gypsum board wall, the final stage before the finishing finish is the giving the surface an ideal smoothness and smoothness with the putty .How to properly seal walls for wallpapering or for painting - in a special publication of our portal.

Plasterboard wall alignment using frame structure

Assembly of drywall on skeleton is a more complicated and troublesome option, but it can not be avoided if the wall is conceived to be further insulated and is soundproofed .The frame can be made of metal zinc-plated profiles or from a wooden beam.

Installation of a lightweight gypsum board

Installation of a drywall partition in the is somewhat similar to the with a wall facing in a frame structure. But there are differences here, the frame is fixed to the walls only from the ends, and is covered with plasterboard on both sides.

partition The GKL frame partition has the following principal construction:

• The frame is constructed from a wooden beam or a metal zinc-plated profile. The frames of the frame are mounted at a distance from each other from the calculating the width of the drywall sheet, so that its edges are found at half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the web. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places in the metal profile for rigidity is embedded a wooden beam.
• The frame is plastered on both sides with plasterboard. Sometimes it is practiced to skin one or both sides and two layers of material.
• Sound insulation( insulation) mats are laid between the sheathing sheets - as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.

Installation of the plasterboard partition is carried out in the following way:

It is very important to conduct quality as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and the appearance of the decorative finish will depend on this.

Video: master-class on the construction of a light frame from drywall

Working with gypsum cardboard is a creative process, and if you really feel the mood to hold it yourself, then you can safely get down to business. Prepare the in for all the tools and materials, and also having studied the installation instructions, even t will be able to carry out this event, the owner of an apartment or house that has not previously come across a construction project.