Suspended ceiling from gypsum board with own hands

In most cases, the finish of the ceiling involves a lot of doubt. A wide range of materials and colors, a variety of design solutions - all this does not contribute to making it easy to choose something specific.

Why drywall?

Type of drywall	Scope of application	Sheet color	Marking color
Conventional( GKL)	Walls and ceilings;erection of non-load bearing partitions	Gray	Blue
Moisture-proof( GKLV)	Finishing of walls and ceilings of kitchens, bathrooms of bathrooms;partitioning in rooms with high humidity	Green	Blue
Fireproof( GKLO)	Finishing air ducts and communication shafts;finishing of metal structures in civil buildings	Gray	Red
Moisture-resistant( GKLVO)	Finishing of structures to achieve the required degree of fire resistance in wet rooms( kitchens, bathrooms, baths, saunas, etc.)	Green	Red

Among the variety of finishing materials, specialistsadvised to choose gypsum cardboard. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which thanks to the latest developments has recently acquired such qualities as resistance to moisture and high temperatures. In this regard, drywall can be:

• standard;
• fire resistant;
• waterproof.
  

  Ceilings from plasterboard

The popularity of the material is caused by numerous advantages, among which:

• no need for complex preparatory procedures - material processing is as simple as possible;
• low cost;
• simplicity of processing and installation;
• wide range of applications;
• unpretentiousness in the care( you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp rag every few months).

But there are also disadvantages:

• lack of elasticity( in which the gypsum board loses PVC film);
• susceptibility to moisture( if the material is not moisture-resistant);
• flammability( if not fire resistant, respectively).

Drywall sheet size( sheet area)	Drywall weight, kg with its thickness 6.5 mm	Drywall weight, kg with its thickness of 9.5 mm	Weight of gypsum board, kg with its thickness of 12.5 mm
1200х2000 mm( 2,4 м2)	12	18	23
1200х2500 mm( 3 м2)	15	22	29
1200х3000 mm( 3,6 м2)	18	27	35

Stage 1. Drawing up the project

For work the project is required. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get the already prepared scheme and the necessary volumes of consumables. If you do everything in the old-fashioned way, then you have to spend much more time and effort.

Step 1. Use a special formula to define the perimeter. It looks like this( if the dimensions of the room, for example, 5x4 m):

( 5 + 4) x 2 = 18 m( P)

It turns out that the length of the guide profiles is 18 m. Then the data are displayed on millimeter paper.

Pay attention! If the length of opposite walls is different( this occurs quite often), then a larger indicator is taken for calculations.

Step 2. After this you need to start calculating the frame profile. In the work, profiles 6x2.7 cm will be used - they will be fixed in steps of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of racks, the width of the room( 400 cm) should be divided into a step( 60 cm).As a result of simple calculations, we get: 6.66( the sum is rounded to 7.0).

The first and last slats are fixed at 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all the others - according to the above step.

Please note! A step of 60 cm is not accidental. The fact is that the standard width of plasterboard sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.

The fixing points of the rods are transferred to the project.

Step 3. Next, determine the number of suspensions( they will also be fastened in steps of 60 cm).

400/60 x 7 = 47 pieces.

The first and last suspension is mounted 30 cm from the surface of the walls. The fastening points are indicated in the diagram by crosses. Also note that it is preferable to use spring suspensions, while straight lines are acceptable only in two cases:

• with absolutely flat ceiling surface;
• at a height of more than 12 cm.

Step 4. After this, you need to determine the number of jumpers that will give the stiffness of the structure.

( (400/60) - 1) x 7 = 40 pieces.

Step 5. It remains only to determine the required number of screws and gypsum boards. With a known area of ​​the room( 20 m²) and a sheet( 3 m²), this is quite easy - almost five sheets of material will be required.

With samorezami too, there should be no difficulties:

• "thirtieth" screws will be fixed plasterboard( the length of the step - 25 cm);
• products 60x6 will be used for walls( step length - 30 cm) and ceiling( 60 cm);
• for the accessories will be used screws LN11: for "crabs" and profiles of 4 pcs., For suspensions and profiles - 2 pcs.

Also note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the wiring.

Stage 2. Preparation of equipment and supplies

Of course, every master has a list of the necessary tools, since in this case much depends on skill and ability to use them. But there are those without which it is unlikely to successfully perform the job:

• metal scissors;
• "serpian"( joint tape);
• puncher, drill-drill to it;
• guides;
• screwdriver;
• water level at least 2 m in length;
• laser level( for measuring the entire room);
• dowels;
• protective equipment - respirator, plastic goggles;
• profiles for ceiling;
• fasteners "crabs";
• self-tapping screws;
• anchors for fixing hangers;
• Roulette;
• ceiling suspensions;
• hammer;
• mounting knife;
• drywall.
  

  Tools

Please note! Depending on the features of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, with anchors for joining profiles located at different heights( if there are large stones in the concrete that interfere with normal drilling), etc.

Stage 3. Guide frame

After preparing the wholeyou can start working.

Step 1. First, using the tape measure, the lowest corner of the room is determined. It puts a mark:

• 5 cm from the ceiling, if no installation of built-in lighting devices is planned;
• at 9 cm if planned.

Step 2. The level indicates the same height in the other corners. After this, along each wall is placed several more marks at the height of the first point;All tags are paired together using a stretched cord or long ruler. Although there is another option - to designate these lines pointwise.

Step 3. The guiding profile is attached to the walls. If joints are planned between the corners( and in large rooms without this in any way), then it is necessary to further strengthen the structure in order to avoid "traveling" of the elements under its weight. To do this, any dense material - tin, plastic or plywood - should be applied over each seam and fixed to the wall with durable anchors.

Please note! For this purpose, a special sealing tape( "serpyanka") is more suitable, but it is not sold in all construction shops.

After this, the corner joints of the profile are strengthened.

Step 4. Basic ceiling profile

Step 1. As mentioned above, most sheets of drywall have dimensions of 120 x 250 cm, because of which the ceiling profiles are desirable to fasten in steps of 40 cm - so eachthe sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle.

The ceiling is marked with parallel lines with a forty-centimeter pitch.

Step 2. After every 2.5 meters( that is, at the cross junctions), jumpers from the same profile are attached. Of course, if the dimensions of the sheets are different, then the distance is determined individually. On the joints are established "crabs".

Step 3. Next, you need to determine the location of the hangers. The first one is installed 25 cm from the wall surface, all the following - in 50 cm increments. Anchors are used to fix the suspensions( ordinary dowels do not fit, because they do not have threads, and the structure can be "pulled" from the ceiling by gravity).

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are attached to the suspensions. You need to start from the corners of the room. Everything, a skeleton for a false ceiling is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation

If there is a desire, the suspended ceiling can be insulated with a mineral wool and a special fastening system, which is popularly called "fungus".

Stage 6. Installation of gypsum boards

frame First of all, a number of important nuances should be clarified: drywall is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, and deformations. Therefore, the material should be stored exclusively in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of the work, move it to the room where repairs are carried out, so that it "rest".This will allow to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.

Further actions should be performed according to the instructions.

Step 1. First the material is cut for those places where less than a whole sheet is needed.

Step 2. The chamfer on the edge is removed by means of a mounting knife - this will ensure a deeper penetration of the putty material in the slot.

Step 3. The fixing of the drywall starts at one of the corners, the first screw is placed 10 cm from the edge. The distance between the screws is 20 cm.

Please note! Screws of screws must necessarily be drowned. It is also important that the screws on the "adjacent" sheets are not located opposite each other, but differently.

Step 4. The following sheets are installed. On the perimeter remains a small gap( approximately 2 mm), the sheets are joined with a minimum shift of 1 cell. It is necessary to watch, that each sheet was fastened both in the center, and along the edges.

Video - Installation of the suspended ceiling

Stage 7. Final finishing of the ceiling

Special attention is paid to the seams, because the aesthetics of the future design directly depend on the quality of their sealing.

Step 1. First, the seams are sealed with a primer - this will change the porous structure, it will become denser and, as a consequence, absorb the filler better. After this, you must wait until the primer is completely absorbed and dry.

Step 2. Put the putty on the screws of the screws and the seams between the sheets. To do this, use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and even edges.

Putty should be special, intended for seams( this point needs to be clarified in the building store or in the manufacturer's instructions).

Step 3. When the joints are completely dry, they should be sealed with a suture tape. It is characteristic that the junctions at the same time are sealed with an overlap. The tape is processed by puttying, all the cracks are sealed in parallel.

Step 4. After the puttying layer has dried, the finish coat is applied( eg paint, plaster, etc.).

Step 5. Lighting devices are installed( if they are provided by the previously compiled project).

Video - Installation of spotlights

Please note! Installing suspended ceiling from gypsum cardboard with 's own hands, do not forget about personal protective equipment. Use glasses and a respirator - they will preserve your health.

Rules of operation

1. The quality of the ceiling depends largely on the moisture resistance of the drywall used. The average humidity in the premises is 40-75%, which is why regular airing is desirable.
2. To extend the life of the suspended ceiling, clean the surface in time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth( in the second case, a small amount of cleaning agent should be added to the water).
3. The use of abrasive materials is strictly prohibited!
4. To ensure that the temperature inside the structure does not differ from the room temperature, the panels are removed immediately after installation. Next, a layer of vapor-tight material is laid( even if a heater was previously installed).
5. The stains from the pencil can be removed using a conventional eraser.
6. The internal space of the structure must be ventilated, for this purpose a gap of approximately 2 mm should be left around the perimeter.

As you can see, to install a suspended ceiling is quite simple, but only with the availability of appropriate tools and detailed instructions.