How to make a door of boards with your own hands

Despite the fact that today the doors are made of a variety of modern materials, wood products are still the most in demand. Wooden doors are installed between the rooms, at the entrance to the house or outbuildings, and also they are mounted on all the functional rooms of the bath. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its ecological purity, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textured drawings.

To understand how to make a door of boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to the most elite, are made of boards, but the material can have different quality and processing. There are also significant differences and for wood species.

In addition, door panels are divided into types according to their design, and in order to determine which one is more suitable for a specific case, you need to find out what they are.

Door types according to

Wooden doors can have a smallOnly the types of structures are paneled and massive, shield( hollow and solid) and frame.

Massive doors

Massive doors are produced from thick, grooved or planed boards that are joined together in one plane and thus form a flat surface. The resulting shield should have horizontal or oblique bridges, which will make the design more rigid.

For massive doors, wood of different breeds and qualities is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if an entrance massive door is made, then for it you need to choose the dried, dense wood of high quality of expensive breeds, such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble textured pattern and a dense structure. When properly processed, this door will last for a long time without deformations and damage to wood-harmful insects.

The massive door can have a different design - as simple as it is suitable for installation in, say, a steam bath, as well as a complex one with a relief design suitable for entering a house or apartment.

For doors of the bath can be used less expensive wood, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing that needs to be considered when manufacturing a door structure for wet rooms is careful treatment with antiseptic and water-repellent agents.

Massive doors can have their own design features, but one thing remains unchanged - a canvas that must always be made of natural wood.

The paneled door

The paneled wooden doors are also made of boards or beams, but more often it is glued, which is made from individual wooden parts - lamellas. They are glued together, creating thick boards or uneven bars.

Further, the beam is glued with natural veneer of one of the wood species and acquires an aesthetic appearance. A qualitatively made panel door is visually difficult to distinguish from a massive structure.

The glued beam serves as a rigid frame for the fabric - vertical and transverse elements are made of it, as well as middles. Individual elements were clamped together using spikes, today nagels are often used for this. Making the door, you need to take into account the fact that, the more crossbars will be provided in the canvas, the stronger it will be. From the beam formed a kind of frame, which are installed panels, panels made of thinner boards, MDF, covered with natural veneer, or plastic, imitating an invoice pattern of wood. The panel usually has a thickness that is ⅓ of the thickness of the glued beam. Panels are fixed in frames with the help of veneered or natural glazing bead, which gives the appearance of the panel door aesthetic, smoothing the sharp edges of the frame.

The paneled doors can have a very diverse design and will be the decoration of any apartment. As can be seen from the design, the main part of the door leaf has a small thickness, so they are most often installed in the spaces between the rooms.

The paneled construction is made of strong materials that are not inferior in their durability to the wooden massif. Sometimes this type of door has an even higher cost than a canvas from the array. The pricing is based on what kind of wood the boards and beams are made from, and what veneer is covered with the material for the panel door.

It should be noted that the panels are often made of wood and completely made of natural wood, only manufactured in a similar constructive scheme.

Panel doors

Panel doors can be called a budget option, since their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made of cheaper material - wood of low quality and fiberboard, veneered with laminates or veneer. Qualitatively made panel structures have a completely aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is still lined with natural veneer, then sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.

Panel doors are solid, hollow and shallow. They differ in that in some the internal space is completely filled with an unedged timber, fastened together, the second consists only of the strapping and the outer skin, and the third have partial filling.

Typical hollow panel door consists of two transverse - upper and lower, as well as side rails, which are lined with fiberboard, lining or other materials. Sometimes horizontal and vertical cross-pieces are installed inside the structure, as they give the structure additional rigidity. This door can already be called a skeleton.

Small-voids designs of door leaves have different filling of internal space, and for filling various materials can be used - it can be plywood, MDF boards, cardboard, shavings or polystyrene.

Solid panel doors are those whose filling is a kind of shield made of non-edged or trimmed beam, tightly fastened together.

Diagrams of panel constructions of different occupancy are presented in the figures:

A - solid construction;

B - shallow filling;

In - void filling with veneer;

G and D - shallow filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;

E - chip filling;

F - filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs;

H is a shield partially filled with solid bars with a designated place for installing glass or plywood sheet.

AND - filling part of the blade with veneer;

To and L - filling with plywood or wood-fiber elements;

M - filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs.

The frame of the panel door is faced with various materials on both sides - plastic( laminate, melamine), wood-fiber boards, plywood or veneer.

When veneering panels with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally decorated with profiled pads.

• To obtain a high-quality panel door, the lining of the structure is carried out with glued plywood made of linden or alder, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2 ÷ 3 mm. The material made of alder and linden, does not give deformations, which creates a reliable basis for decorative finishing.

On top of the glued layer is a finishing plywood made of precious wood. The direction of the fibers of the decorative layer of plywood must be perpendicular to the material glued.

Often on a glued layer, instead of plywood, natural veneer from expensive types of wood is fixed. Its layers, and they can be 3 or 5, are also laid perpendicular to each other.

• Sometimes a solid board from a glued beam is immediately made out with veneer, it is applied in 5 ÷ 10 layers to create a common facing words of 2 ÷ 4 mm.

The end faces of the shield must be neat and solid, so if the door is made without a frame, then they use smooth, well-treated bars, which in color and texture will match the finishing of the remaining planes.

The end bars are fastened to the shield by nails and glue.

This type of door, depending on the finish can be installed at the entrance to the apartment, bathroom or utility rooms, and also as interroom. However, it should be noted that the panel doors have absolutely no protection, so for the role of the input they are not suitable. Most often they are used for this only as a temporary option.

Now that the designs of all types of doors are known, you can decide which one is right for the particular case, and then go on to the preparatory work and manufacturing.

Tools for making doors

In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a stable large workbench on which all elements will be assembled into a single web.

It is necessary to prepare tools from the tools:

• Manual milling - this device will help to make the door leaf smooth, cut out any holes and grooves, compare the right angles of the structure, handle the glazing bead and much more. If the goal is to make a door that looks professional, then you can not do without this tool.

• Planer for leveling the end faces of the door.
• Clamps for tightening glued webs.
• Hacksaw. Lumber saw and hand saw.
• Chisels of different sizes.
• Rubber and conventional hammer.
• Construction level.
• Ruler, measuring tape, folding meter and pencil.
• Sandpaper and grinder.
• Screwdriver.

Required Materials

The following materials are required for the manufacture of doors:

• Wood is its grade, the number and dimensions are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
• Joiner's glue.
• Self-tapping screws of different lengths.

In addition, for each type of door will need to prepare specific materials that will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door leaves.

	For the manufacture of the shield, groovy boards are used, having a "spike-groove" attachment or non-punched boards. Thickness of boards should be not less than 25 mm, and if a door is made to enter the apartment or house, then the board is taken even with a thickness of 40 ÷ 60 mm. Doors for hozpostroek or baths are most often made from a non-punctured board using one of the above shown straps. For doors installed in living areas, a groovy quality thick board is taken.
	Next, the prepared boards are marked and sawn to the required lengths.
	The next step from the board is going to the shield. Thus it is necessary to stack them so that the drawing of annual rings was directed to one side. If grooved boards are used for production, then the tenon is carefully cut off from the outer element of the shield, and the butt is carefully processed. When assembling the board, the grooved boards are assembled using both the "groove-spike" locking connection and the joinery glue. Non-punched - just stick together.
	Work should be carried out on a large workbench - a workbench where it is possible to place the door leaf completely, and lay it perfectly flat.
	The assembled and glued shield of the cloth is pressed in several places by clamps and left to dry.
	A ready dried board is machined by a milling cutter, to an ideally smooth state. In this case, the joints between the boards become almost invisible.
	It should be noted that, if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is glued perpendicular to the previous one, and the entire resulting structure is clamped into the clamps. As a result, a fairly heavy, powerful shield is obtained, having a thickness suitable for installation at the entrance to the house or apartment. Especially often this is how a door is made, on which a relief pattern will later be milled or cut out.
	Next, it is necessary to fasten the shield with one of the types of straps. The simplest of them are two or three cross-members installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, the parts are prepared, the length of which is equal to the width of the shield manufactured. Their possible shape and dimensions are shown in the figure on the left. Such a configuration must be observed for the easy insertion of the cross member into the groove, which will be cut out for it in the door leaf.
	Then on the door leaf the marking of the places where the grooves for the cross-pieces will be cut out is done. To them is applied the finished transverse elements and are delineated by a simple pencil. In addition, immediately you need to determine and note the depth at which the boards of the shield will select the groove. The recess can be ⅓ or ½ the thickness of the board.
	On the made marks on a board the mill cut out cross grooves of the necessary form and the size. The milling cutter is able to make their surfaces perfectly smooth, so the cross-members will fit into their "nests" quite easily, but very tightly. In addition, the groove is coated with joinery glue. You can cut the groove and manually - first make the cuts at the desired angle, and then the wood is selected by the chisel.
	When grooves are prepared, the crossmembers are inserted into them from one side, and then gradually slid inward using a rubber mallet or kiyanku.
	When assembled, the canvas, reinforced with cross bars, will look like this.
	If you plan to decorate the finished shield with any relief pattern, then its contour should first be applied to the surface with a pencil using a template. Afterwards, the milling cutter of the desired configuration is alternately set on the manual router, and the selected pattern is cut without haste.
	The finished fabric should be treated with antiseptic. If the door is planned to be installed at the entrance of the house and, therefore, will be exposed to external factors, then besides the antiseptic it is necessary to use water repellent compounds. When making a door to enter the apartment, it is recommended that the wood be covered with flame retardants.
	If you want to change the color of the canvas, make the door more "noble" or artificially "make it" older, then for this you can use the technology of drilling. Mordant coat the wood in one or more layers, achieving the desired darkening of the texture. After drying the composition of the door can be covered in several layers of varnish.
	On the finished canvas and door frame, marking is done to install the selected model of hinged loops. The hinges are then mounted in the marked locations.
	The next stage on the canvas and on the door frame marks the place of installation of the lock, after which it is cut into the construction and the handle is installed. The last step is to hang the door in the doorway and carry out an exact finish fit, if necessary.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

Selection of sawn timber

It is necessary to know how to choose the right blanks for the fabric, otherwise the finished door can be deformed, and this defect can not be fixed any more.

The main criteria for choosing wood are:

• The wood species is selected at will and financial possibilities.
• For doors is acquired, so-called, business wood, since it has a small number of knots, and if they do exist, it is of a small size and light color.
• In order for the tree to "behave" well during processing and the period of operation of the doors, the material must have a residual moisture content of 12-15% when purchased. It is recommended to choose the material dried in a special drying chamber. The wood processed in this way is not deformed and will not dry out, as the chamber creates the optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
• When buying boards, they must be checked for smoothness. To do this, they should be laid on a flat surface and try to connect with each other using locks "groove-spike".The boards should not be bent or wired.
• Thickness of boards for a door can be 25 ÷ 50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - at the entrance or between rooms.
• Before starting work, it is recommended to walk on all surfaces of boards with a grinding machine with fine-grained sandpaper. If this device is not available, then it is possible to make the grinding device on its own from the usual wooden bar, fixing the sandpaper onto it.

Manufacturing of a massive door

Whatever model of a door from a massive board has been chosen, the basis for it will be a board board, which must be properly assembled. Otherwise, wood can "lead", and such a construction will not be possible to operate.

Solid wood door is made for a bath, for installation between rooms or for installation at the entrance to the apartment, house and outbuildings. Naturally, the appearance of the product in different situations will differ.

• For a bath, the simplest design is used, in which a board assembled from boards is fastened with cross and diagonal elements.

In this figure, you can see different types of fasteners-fasteners:

General view of the door;

I - door with a Z-shaped strap;

II - X-shaped strapping;

III - double Z-shaped strapping;

IV - double X-shaped strapping;

V - triple strapping.

To enter the house or for installation in residential areas, the doors should have a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, the assembled shield is processed in a special way to achieve its ideal smoothness and smoothness. Next, the marking of the chosen relief pattern is applied to the canvas, and then a relief is cut along it with the help of the router.

Manufacture of the panel door

It is not difficult to manufacture the panel door yourself. The main thing is to have at hand all the materials, a good tool, to withstand all the dimensions, to keep the edges even and the straightness of the corners. The amount of work will depend on the design of the chosen door option. For example, for a solid panel door, as well as for one made of a massive board, it is necessary to make a board, only it can consist of low quality wood and processing. If it is planned to make a small-filled canvas, then the same bars are used, but they are not fastened to a solid surface, but with gaps.

Based on the design description, it can be produced in three ways:

• The first is that a frame frame( bundle) of the right size is first assembled, and then its interior space is filled completely or partially, that is, a solid or small-filled shield is created inside the frame.
• The shield can be made separately, and then it must be fixed in the frame, after which it is finished with a finishing material.
• The third variant is executed in the reverse order, that is, the shield is first produced, and then it is enclosed by a frame and lining.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	So, first we make a frame( strapping) of the structure that will determine the size of the fabric. For it, you need to prepare a bar, section, approximately 30 × 120 mm, which is cut to the size of the future fabric( length and width).
	Having prepared the beam, you must select the connection that will be used at the corners. There are several types of connections, but the simplest one can be called what is called "half a tree".The grooves are first marked at the edges of the prepared bar, which must be done very accurately, and then easily selected using a conventional manual hacksaw and a chisel. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the bar. The grooves are greased with glue and join at the corners, and they need to be checked with the help of a building corner, since the bars should be perfectly perpendicular. When connecting the beam, the frame must rest on a hard, level surface, and after connecting the corners, it is left to dry on the same table without moving.
	After the glue has dried on joints, they must be fastened with nagels, for which through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled. Then they carefully hammered glued nagels.
	One side of the frame needs to be glazed with one of the selected materials immediately after the frame is fastened and dried - this can be plywood, as described above, but more often, for economic reasons, a fiberboard is chosen. The sheet of material cut out on the necessary size is laid on a flat table, then the frame is laid on it and the marking of its location is made on the facing material. After that, the frame is removed, and the marked strips are densely applied with joinery adhesive. Then the frame returns to its place and firmly presses against the facing material. In this position, under the press, the entire structure should dry well. It should be noted that very often for the rigidity of the structure of the frame between its side rails one or two cross-pieces are mounted
	Further, the inner space of the frame is filled with one of the selected filler materials - this can be a beam, MDF pieces or other mentioned woodworking waste products,quality. So, in principle, all shield structures are made, and they differ only in the form of filling. All filling elements are glued together, as well as glued to the bottom sheet of the facing material and the beams of the frame. Before covering the entire structure with a facing, it is necessary to allow the glue to dry thoroughly.
	This diagram shows a skeleton-panel structure, and it clearly shows inserts, which are usually installed in hollow and shallow-hollow variants. These elements are designed for tight locking of the lock or door handle.
	While the glue will dry, it is necessary to prepare the material for facing the outside. For this purpose, the perimeter of the frame is measured and one or two finishes are cut by these dimensions. If you plan to glue two sheets, then first glued a conventional fiberboard, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or veneered plywood. It is advisable to send the door leaf under the press, which can be built independently, for example by closing the sheet with a polyethylene film, then lay the gypsum boards on top of it.
	If desired, instead of a laminated sheet for plating, you can use rails made of natural wood, but they will have to be screwed to the frame, drill holes "under the pot" to drown the screws of the screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and joinery glue. When it dries, the surface should be treated with sandpaper.
	Then, all corner parts and ends of the door leaf need to be processed with a milling cutter - only then the door will look quality and neat. In the finished door leaf, the lock or handle-latch crashes, and the hinges are fastened. Finally, the door is suspended in the door frame.

	The first thing to do when deciding to make a panel door is to draw a drawing of the future design and to place on it the dimensions of each of the parts. This drawing shows a door with four panels: a) general view of the door; b) Studded joints of upper, middle and lower cross members: 1- struts;2- Upper cross member;3-locking cross member;4- lower cross member;5- upper middle;6 - lower middle;7- upper panel;8 - the bottom panel;9 - key;10 - groove.
	To produce the frame you need a bar - it can be made from a massive board or from glued beams. With the latter it will be somewhat more difficult to work, because due to the presence of glue in its structure, it has great rigidity. The beam is needed for vertical elements, cross bars and middles. The beam must be machined with a router, making grooves on one side of it. And sometimes at once do and figured sections, which will replace the glazing bead. If it is planned to use a glazing bead, then the surfaces around the groove should be left even.
	Next, you need to work on the cross bars, cutting out the connecting spikes on both sides and treating all edges with a milling cutter. At the ends of the crossbars there are grooves for installing the panels and middens in them. The front side of the upper and lower cross bars, which will exit the end of the door, remains flat and solid.
	The size of the studs on the cross bars, in the vertical bars do notched slots for the assembly of the door. Before you make them, the beams are carefully marked.
	For the production of panels, which will be installed in the grooves of the cross bars and beams, you need a plywood, board or chipboard. It should be noted that all the panel parts or several of them can be replaced with glass. If you choose the glass, it will require more and staples, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become for them a relief frame.
	The panels can have absolutely flat plane, and after mounting into the cut grooves, they are framed with a figuratively carved staple. In another case, the panels are machined around the perimeter with a milling cutter, with which you can achieve the desired relief configuration. If the second option is chosen, then for their manufacture plywood or boards having a thickness greater than for flat panels are purchased - it can be 20 ÷ 25 mm. The edges of the panels are milled so that their thickness is 1 ÷ 2 mm less than the grooves cut in the transverse and vertical beams, since it is free to enter them.
	All prepared door elements are treated with antiseptic compounds and dried.
	Before assembly, you need to test all the elements and, if necessary, additional markup. Assembly of all parts in a single cloth is carried out on the table, in a horizontal position. All spikes, before installation in grooves, are greased with carpentry glue.
	Assembly of the fabric is carried out in the following sequence: - In the grooves of one of the vertical bars, according to the marking, all the details - cross-pieces and panels - are pasted. - Next, saddles are installed, the spikes of which are also glued with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are installed in the cross members and middens. - After that, the remaining vertical bar is pasted.
	- The last ones are glued to the frames. If necessary, a rubber hammer or a wooden kitten is used to install the studs into the grooves. After that, the canvas gently picks up from all sides, and its corners are checked by a building corner. Then, before drying it is compressed with clamps.
	On the finished door leaf markings are made for the installation of fittings - hinges and a lock or just a door handle. After that, the parts are installed for fitting on the canvas, but do not fix it - they are mounted only after the final surface finish.
	The door can be finished with acrylic lacquers or water based paints. If necessary, the surface of the door can be made darker, and emphasize the beauty of the texture of the wood. For this, a stain is used, which can be applied to one or more layers. Top of the wood can be covered with clear varnish or hot wax. When the coating dries, the fittings are installed.
Illustration	Brief description of the operation

Each of the ways has its pluses and minuses, and which one to choose - the master chooses independently. Below, for an example, the first variant of door manufacturing will be considered.

It should be noted that in the same way, the frame doors are also manufactured - their inner space is additionally reinforced with a frame made of timber or planks. But, before making a skeleton door, you need to make accurate calculations and draw a drawing.

The production of the panel door

The paneled doors have the most complex structure, and without special joinery tools and stable skills of working with them, it is indispensable in its manufacture, since the elements require special processing.

The paneled doors consist of several parts, which can be made from massive boards or glued beams and plywood. Naturally, they are significantly different in price. On sale you can find many different models, but for self-production in the absence of significant experience in carpentry, it is best to choose the most simple option.

The position of the hinges is approximately as shown in this diagram. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps, which should be observed when installing the cloth in the door frame.

opening These parameters, in principle, are identical for mounting any types of canvas in the door frame.

In conclusion, it must be said that it is quite difficult to manufacture a wooden door yourself without having experience in carpentry. Moreover, it is practically impossible to do without special tools that are not in everyone's home arsenal. Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, then it's best to order it to a professional master or buy a ready-made version.

Video: a master class for the production of a paneled door from a wooden file

But if it's still decided to experiment or there is an insistent desire to learn how to make always demanded carpentry, then you must buy a quality tool, both manual and electric( including,- a router with a set of cutters) and learn how to work with it. Only after everything starts to work out successfully, it is possible to try to make separate details. In any case, if there is a desire to do this kind of work, then you need to try your hand at it.