Frame for siding - it all depends on the correct attachment!

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Siding frame - general provisions for mounting

All wooden elements are treated with special antiseptic solutions before installation, which will provide reliable protection against moisture and various insect pests. The cross-section of wooden rails depends on the thickness of the insulating material and in most cases is 5x5 cm.

Double-width materials are used for the corners of the frame. The only disadvantage of installing a wooden flooring is the difficulty with its installation on an uneven surface. Some manufacturers recommend the frame for siding mount from moisture-proof plywood or OSB with a thickness of up to 2 cm. Also, metal profiles can be used for this.

The beginning of installation is preceded by careful preparation of the walls. In the course of the preparatory works, the old, dilapidated planking is removed, the areas with fallen plaster are restored, lighting devices, old shutters, gutters and other details of the old facade are dismantled.

Wood frame for wood siding -

work stages The siding frame starts with marking and stamping of walls in the upper corners in which holes are drilled to block reinforcing bars of about 30 cm in length. A plumb line is lowered from their edge, and holes for lower reinforcement are made below. At the end, cords, serving as beacons, are pulled.

Mounting of frame under siding is carried out on absolutely flat, prepared surface, as plastic panels are rather thin and unable to withstand a serious load. How to make a frame under the siding, so that the inside of the skin is well ventilated?

It's very simple. To do this, leave a small gap between the moisture barrier and the surface of the panels. Further on, the carrier frame is mounted one more crate. They are stitched together by special nails with an anti-corrosion coating, in some cases bolts or staples are used.

Assembly of the frame for siding - metal base

Now let's look at how to make the frame for the metal siding. The metal frame is naturally more expensive than the wooden frame, but its reliability and durability are much higher. In addition, the installation of metal structures is much easier.

The only drawback of such a crate is its susceptibility to corrosion processes. But today you can cope with this by buying a more expensive material with a reliable coating.

At present, the industry produces frame structures from a galvanized profile up to 1 mm thick. Their reliability is beyond doubt, but here the price is higher than that of wood materials. Therefore, most often for the installation of the frame used profiled metal, used when working with plasterboard. This design perfectly withstands the total weight of the siding with a heater.

Profile racks are mounted vertically up to a distance of 50 cm from each other. Double corners and twisted profiles are used at the corners and under the joint bar. Some specialists corners are lined with horizontal shorts.

U-shaped canopies are installed strictly vertically at a distance of 0.5 m from each other. To concrete surfaces they are fastened by means of dowels, and to wooden walls - self-tapping screws. Sometimes, to compensate for unevenness or to lay a heater, consoles are used instead of suspensions, which can be made independently from waste profiles.

The frame under the socle siding is usually assembled from metal. Installation is carried out strictly horizontally, the distance between the parts of the crate should be about 46 cm, which corresponds to the height of the panels. The lining for the socle siding is assembled on vertical bridges, which consist of guides, which prevents the deflection of the profiles under the weight of the skin. When laying the insulation does not require the use of suspensions, fastening is carried out exclusively on the profiles.

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