Can I put the tile on a wooden floor?

In this article we will consider the question of how to put tiles on wooden floors.

Floor tiles - very comfortable and durable material.

Problems with laying tiles on the floor in an apartment does not usually arise.

With few exceptions, in multi-storey houses the floor is a concrete screed.

It is easy to tile. Glued mixtures were used to replace cement mortars that were difficult to handle.

With their help, tile flooring can be laid without even having the skills. Problems arise in private houses, where the wooden floor is most often equipped.

And if in the rooms you can still do with linoleum or carpet, then in the bathroom and in the kitchen without tiles it is very difficult to manage.

The use of tiles as flooring in a private house( especially in the kitchen and bathroom) is justified by the fact that under it you can get a water or electric floor heating, which will significantly reduce the cost of heating the house.

The tile has a number of other advantages:

• Wear resistance - the service life of the tiled floor is several times higher than that of linoleum;
  fire resistance - tiles do not burn, and in case of a spark, will not allow the fire to flare up. The quality of the coating is especially important where people will often move - in the corridor, in the kitchen near the stove and in the bathroom;
• Resistance to loads - the physical loads that can be applied to a tile without the risk of damage are enormous and can not be realized in a private home. The requirements for sustainability in living conditions in people's rooms are much lower. So, the furniture on the tile can be moved without fear of damaging its coating. A heavy cabinet will not squeeze the tile, like, for example, linoleum, which would have to install a gasket under the legs of the furniture. In the bathroom you can place a shower on the tile;
• Ease of cleaning - unlike laminate flooring, tile floor tiles can be washed without fear of leakage. In the bathroom, where there is a risk of accidental spilling of water, the tile reliably protects the floor.

Let's study, whether it is possible to put a tile on a wooden floor, how to not admit a situation when it is necessary to alter all work.

To put it bluntly, the wooden floor is not suitable for floor tiles. The tree has the property of "playing", drying up, or, conversely, rotting from moisture.

What will happen with tiles? It's not difficult to guess.

Laying of tiles on a wooden floor is possible only after providing a solid waterproofing layer, which is not affected either from below or from above.

What this layer should consist of and how to put it correctly depends on the condition of the wooden floor.

Since we will have to perform partial dismantling, we will consider the components of the wooden floor.

The top layer is a linoleum, carpet or laminate, under which the substrate is located. As a backing layer can be used "marshmallow" - a soft warming substrate and fiberboard.

The essence of this layer is to neutralize the roughness of the rough floor, which consists of boards laid on the logs.

Preparatory work

Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to check and prepare the base. Let's consider three ways of carrying out preparatory work.

Method 1 - wooden floor in very good condition

Applying this method, you must choose - whether to dismantle the finishing floor, and on the rough put the chipboard, or put the slab immediately on the finish floor.

In many respects it depends on the height of the ceiling( the dismantling of the floor will allow to increase the height of the canopy, but on the other hand, it will deepen the floor) and the desire of the owner of the house to disassemble the floor.

Video:

Both options are acceptable. We lay the chipboard plates so that they are in the same level. A difference of 3-4 mm is not critical if you plan to lay a large tile.

The gap between the wall and the plate must be insulated with any sealant( foam can be used) level with the level of the plate.

Next, treat the surface of the drying oil twice or any finished impregnation, applying it according to the instructions. Our goal is to achieve a waterproofing film on the surface of the plate.

Warm up the varnish, be extremely careful - this is a very fire hazard.

Now on the chipboard you need to apply a thick enough layer of latex on which to spread the paint net.

Immediately after the latex has hardened, fix the mesh to the slab using a construction stapler or wood screws. On the surface of the slab we apply a solution of liquid glass.

It can be used according to instructions or take water, liquid glass and coarse sand in a 1: 2: 2 ratio. Dry dried glass will be the basis for laying tiles.

This method without dismantling the wooden floor can only be used if there is confidence in the quality of the rough floor.

Method 2 - wooden in poor condition - we make a screed

This method is suitable for a situation where the floorboards somewhere else creak, and somewhere already sagged. To make the tiling correctly, without dismantling here is indispensable.

We remove the floor covering more accurately, we replace the rough bars, where necessary. Level them in one level, cover with impregnation and prepare for screed.

Since direct contact of cement and wood leads to decay of the latter and is unacceptable, it is necessary to provide a waterproof screed base.

Video:

On top of the leveled roughing floor, put any insulation( this can be both dense polyethylene and expanded polystyrene plates), on top of which we lay the building mesh for reinforcement.

Now we produce high-quality waterproofing slots in any convenient way and cover with a screed.

You can use cement mortar or self-leveling flooring for the screed, depending on your preference.

Only after the solution has dried completely( according to the instructions for the self-leveling floor and 8-10 days for the concrete screed), it is possible to put ceramic tiles.

Method 3 - wooden floor in unsatisfactory condition - do without screed

To properly prepare the floor in this case, it is necessary to dismantle the top cover, the substrate and the rough floor.

Since there will not be a breathable layer of glue and tiles on top, it is necessary to insulate the logs from the arrival of moisture.

The joint of the wall and the floor below the log is closed with a thick layer of insulation, and when it dries, fall asleep completely dry with expanded clay.

Across the lag we fix the boards of the preliminary rough floor on which the substrate will be mounted.

Video:

Allowed to leave small gaps between the boards of the rough floor. As a substrate, it is possible to use gypsum fiber sheets or cement-chipboards, not more than 2 cm thick.

A primer is applied twice to the plates, after which the tiling can be laid.

Preparatory work can be done in any of three ways. All of them will allow to become a layer, which is on a level below the tile, smooth and firm.

Based on the situation and financial possibilities, it is possible to think over and implement your own version of the insulation of the tree used for the lower floor and the organization of a dense, non-cracking pre-installation layer.

The following principles should be adhered to:

• cement should not contact the wood;
• all surfaces are leveled;
• provides qualitative isolation of cracks;
• layer, on which the tiles are laid, must be firm and not allow subsidence.

The technology of working with wooden floor before laying ceramic tiles is presented in video.

Selection, calculation and laying of tiles

For bathroom it is important to choose a non-slip ceramic tile with corrugated coating. In a small bathroom or kitchen, large tiles on the floor visually reduce the area.

For the bathroom floor tiles must be selected in tone wall tiles. Calculate the required number of tiles.

For this, we measure the area of ​​the room and determine whether we will stack it orderly or diagonally.

Video:

Orderly laying - the most economical, to calculate the number of tiles add to the area of ​​the room 10-15%.

When stacking diagonally, there will be more cuttings, this method is more complicated and requires certain skills.

As the opposite walls of the room may not be clearly parallel to each other( even a one-degree deviation will significantly affect the laying of tiles), we will deduce the middle angle.

To do this, note on each wall the middle and drop the perpendicular to the opposite side.

Ideally, if the midpoint of the wall coincides with the end of the perpendicular. We'll start laying the masonry from the middle to the corners, focusing on the lines applied.

In this case, all the irregularities and cut-off edges will either be hidden under the furniture near the wall, or they will be covered with a skirting board.

Typically, the manufacturer of tiles recommends in the instructions, which glue to use for masonry. We recommend the use of cement glue in all three cases when laying tiles.

It is necessary to leave a certain distance between neighboring tiles. For this, when laying near the corners of the tile, we insert "crosses".

After complete drying of the adhesive solution, they can be removed and the slits filled with a layer of plaster, using a spatula. After the plaster has dried, it is peeled to smooth any possible protrusions.

If a colored, color-matching plaster is used, then a thin coat can be applied at the seams using a fine brush.

If white plaster has been used and this is disharmonious with the color of the ceramic floor, then it is necessary to apply a color grout, after which it will pass the finish coat at the seams.

A step-by-step instruction for laying the tile on a wooden floor is shown in the video.

As we saw in the video, laying tiles on the wooden floor is possible when carrying out preliminary work with the backing layer.

The technology considered makes it easy to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden base.