Bath for the bath with your own hands

Traditionally, after high temperatures, the Russian steam room was dipped in cold water, so the baths tried to install on the bank of the river or another of the reservoir .Similar traditions have survived to this day, but today more and more often sauna lovers prefer leaving the steam room to jump into a baptized font, and not run in the frost to the nearest body of water .

Can I build a font for the bath with my own hands? If there is a desire, then, of course, it is quite possible. It can be made of wood, cast from concrete or installed a finished bowl of special plastic, which is then lined with decorative material.

The interesting parallel of - in Japanese culture has its own traditional bath called ofuro .It, in principle, consists of a wooden barrel. The ofuro differs from the usual font in that it is heated with the drum installed next to the or even inside the

of the metal furnace. Building a similar option, you can get another one bath and a font at the same time.

Form and material of production of font

The font is most often made in by four geometric shapes - is square, round, triangular or oval.

• The most popular form of a wooden font is the oval. Such a structure - is the most compact of all, and can be installed even in a small room. In addition, the oval shape has a good rigidity , and this design is easy to assemble.

• Round shape well is suitable for making a wooden Japanese bath, since it needs to make a compartment for installing the furnace.

• A square font made of wood is extremely rare, as it is not very user-friendly, and the of its design does not have sufficient rigidity .In addition, the corners of the square structures dry out longer, and processes unevenly, and this is highly undesirable for wooden structures. Therefore, often the masters simply round the inner corners of the font.

• A triangular font can be made of wood or plastic. It is convenient because it is compactly installed in the corner of the room and does not occupy a large area of ​​the bath. This design looks very neat and respectable enough, and, probably, will suit for any interior of a bath room.

Concrete font , arranged in semi bath , can have the most arbitrary shapes, because rigidity is provided to it by reinforced by by reinforcing the walls and the bottom.

Plastic fonts also have different geometric shapes. These mini-pools are usually installed on the bath floor( on the surface or in a made pit).The shape of the font does not in any way affect the of its performance characteristics, and you can choose any of them for the taste of the owner of the bath.

Wooden font

If you decide to make a wooden font yourself, you first need to choose a material suitable for from it , as not every wood is suitable for the manufacture of containers of , constantly in contact with water.

Wood solid is suitable for such products, which at a minimum absorbs moisture in its structure, and means , it will last as long as possible.

It's been known for a long time that certain trees have favorable health-improving capabilities that give the person extra vitality. Therefore, it is these breeds that are chosen for making not only fonts, but also other accessories that are used in the bath.

The trees that are characterized by such qualities include larch, Siberian cedar, beech and oak.

Larch

Larch wood is an excellent choice for any bath accessories, as it has specific properties that favorably affect human health. So, it is noticed that the aromas and infusions of larch increase the general tone of the body, activate protective reactions, and also purify and rejuvenate the skin.

Larch well withstands extremely high temperatures, and their differences, possessing T verdoy structure, is therefore strong and durable, as it perfectly resists penetration of excessive moisture into the thickness of the tree. Due to its special antiseptic properties, it is not subject to putrefactive processes and the formation of fungus.

Cedar

Cedar wood has an even greater density than larch, and has no worse characteristics for resistance to the external environment. In addition, it is a source of phytoncids, which suppress the growth of bacteria, which excludes the appearance of mold and fungal colonies.

Cedarwood is enriched with essential oils that heals well work even on a cellular level. Cedar has the property to normalize the work of the cardiovascular and nervous system, calms and helps to relax, and besides this - is considered a strong aphrodisiac.

Beech

Beechwood has a dense and strong structure that helps it resist external negative effects and persistently tolerate humidity and temperature changes over a very wide range. Beech has a tart aroma that strengthens human immunity properties. A font made from this tree will last a very long time.

Oak

Oak wood is known for its remarkable properties for more than one hundred years. Oak has always been a symbol of fortress and excellent health, as the tree itself has a dense and solid structure. Having an oak font, it is possible for each hike in a bath to get a charge of vivacity and energy. In addition, this wood helps to heal wounds, improve sleep, normalize metabolism, neutralize inflammation.

has been and remains the most popular among all types of wood. Oak can be called the most popular material for making bath accessories, that's why most sauna lovers choose this kind of wood.

Is there a font of wood and its minuses - is a challenge in operation and maintenance. Do not allow parts to dry out, so after using and rinsing the of the in the , needs to be poured with a small amount of water and topped with a lid to allow it to evaporate more slowly, but constantly maintains the moisture level inside it.

For the installation of wooden barrels, it is necessary to prepare a perfectly flat surface in order to avoid distortion and deformation of the structure. If it is impossible to find such a platform, you can even level the font itself, by laying wooden pads of the required thickness under the desired of its .

Finishing font

In addition to installed on the floor and embedded in it fonts for washing, make and poured fonts. They are usually used in those cases where places in the bath are not enough, and it is impossible to establish a full-fledged mini-pool where a person could get to. Otherwise, fluffy fonts are often installed in Russian baths and in saunas just for lovers to take the instant cold shower.

Video: a variety of bathtub fittings

Mounting of a wooden font

Drawing fonts and materials for its manufactured by

Before buying materials for making a font, it is necessary to make a qualitative assembly drawing this capacity with the exact calculations the dimensions and the number of parts.

It is recommended to perform drawing in several projections - then it will be easier to calculate all the parameters of the necessary components - wall, bottom, ladder parts.

The ladder can have steps, as in the presented drawing, or simply wooden crossbeams. But in the latter case, for security reasons, it is necessary that the ladder to be attached to the edge of the font.

• Boards will be needed for the walls and the bottom of the font, stands under the of its , internal benches and stairs. Usually a 20 × 120 mm material is used, with considering the that the edges of the board will be milled. The length of the board will depend on the chosen height of the font.
• For supports under the font, you need a beam of 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm. Its length will depend on the width and length of the font.
• In addition to the boards will require metal strips and bolts, which will be pulled together the installed boards. Meta lll for I strips need to be flexible enough, but very durable.
• For securing individual parts of the bottom and screwing the legs, self-tapping screws will be necessary. However, it should be taken into account that there should not be any metal parts inside the font.

Manufacture of parts for wooden fonts

Making wooden elements for assembling a font is not as simple as seems, as they will have to create a single solid, and at the same time - sealed construction that will not leak in any place. The boards must densely join each other, creating a solid, gap-free surface on the walls and on the bottom plane. In addition, the walls of the font should be densely joined to the bottom plane.

• The boards are cut to the same lengths( in accordance with the drawing), equal to the height of the walls plus 100 ÷ 120 mm. This is the distance to which the bottom of the font will rise above the floor. The lower part of the boards will close this space from a draft.
• Then each of the boards along the edges is milled. With one a semicircular spike is formed, and on the other a semicircular groove is cut, having the exactly the same radius, as with the spike - , they should ideally match each other.

• The bottom boards must also be milled for joining the spike groove without side chamfers, so that the floor surface is perfectly flat and does not even have small crevices.

• Another option - boards should be smooth, perfectly fitted, without groovy joints.

• Next, on each of the boards intended for the walls of the font, the same distance is measured from the lower edge of them, for example, 100 mm. Above its , the exact thickness of the board from which the bottom will be mounted, for example, 25 or 30 mm, is noted.
• In the marked section, a square groove is carefully milled, with a depth of one third of the thickness of the board, in the this case - 8 ÷ 10 mm.
• Having finished the production of the parts according to the calculated dimensions, they are subjected to t by thorough grinding. So, the boards for the walls should be perfectly smooth on both sides, and the details of the bottom - at least on the side that faces the font.

Assembly steps

The principle of mounting a wooden font is similar to the production of barrels. The difference in this process lies in the shape and thickness of the wooden elements that form the walls of the tank. The - font boards are absolutely flat, and for the barrel they narrow to the bottom and top open part of the of the .

Mounting of the font is carried out in stages, as follows:

• The first stage of the is the mounting of the board from the boards. It will then serve as a blank, from which the bottom of the font will form. The boards are glued together with joinery glue and compressed by clamps to the full readiness of this wooden shield.

It is clear that for an oval font a rectangular shield is assembled, for a round - square.

• After the glue has dried, a necessary figure is drawn and drawn on the wooden surface with the dimensions corresponding to the drawing. Then the bottom detail is cut very carefully. Errors in cutting out this curvilinear figure can not be tolerated - it's better not to rush to prevent a fatal error. The edge of the finished bottom should be carefully processed with sandpaper to get rid of burrs and small irregularities.
• Further, the resulting shield should be additionally reinforced from the bottom of the bottom with 20 × 30 mm blocks. They are screwed with self-tapping screws, which in no case must pass through, otherwise their sharp ends will stick out in the semi-font , which can lead to injuries.

In addition, it is possible to fix the support bars, which will later act as - legs, they are installed along the edges of the bottom plane.

If you buy ready-made fonts, then usually the bottom is divided into three parts. This is done only for convenience of transportation. The parts from the kit are assembled to the whole plane as well as it was mentioned above - with the help of glue, brusks and screws.

• Further, for a comfortable discharge of water from the of the , closer to the edge of the bottom, a hole of the desired diameter is drilled into which a siphon with a hose is installed.

If it is not possible to install a drain pipe due to a lack of sewage, then the water can be pumped out of the font with a pump, but this option, however, will become more complicated and inconvenient.

• hose will be connected later. The next step is to proceed with the assembly of the walls. To do this, the bottom part is raised to the desktop, which has the same height as the walls of the - font so it will be more convenient to mount the boards on the edge of the bottom shield.
• First, the - fitting is applied to the edge of the shield, one of the prepared boards is tightly installed. Her is put on a square groove on the shield and taped to the stop with a rubber mallet.

• Next, on the installed first board make a mark with a pencil, and then along the entire edge of the shield extend the received line. It will become a reference point for installing the remaining boards.

It is very important to correctly set the boards on semi-circular bends, while observing the angle that must have defined in advance and marked in the drawing of the font.

• font The boards are installed as tightly as possible to each other and are also pinched by a rubber hammer.

• The last board starts to be mounted from above, between two already installed elements. She neatly drives into the general row. In this case, adjacent planks can even move slightly from the bottom surface.

It's OK - after the last detail is advanced one level with the other elements of the walls, its and next standing boards are pushed to the side so that they sit tightlygrooves on the bottom plane.

• The next stage, the collected font should be pulled together with metal strips. In them along the edges are made special ears, in which the tightening bolt will be installed. After installing the bolt, a nut is healed on its thread, turning it tightens the metal hoop, thereby pressing the boards as tightly as possible to each other.

Such hoop bands should be, like , a minimum of three. They are located in the lower and middle part of the font, and also at a distance of 100 ÷ 250 mm from the top of the structure.

• After this, the font is turned over and installed on the bottom. From the top all the details are treated with fine-grained sandpaper, and then polished to an ideal smoothness, to completely eliminate the possibility of skin injuries.
• The next step is the manufacture of a ladder. The simplest version consists of two well-processed boards, installed vertically, and horizontal steps-crossbeams. It is advisable to install hooks on the upper part of the stairs or fix wooden supports to the back of the support boards.

• Inside the font, ready-made wooden seats are installed, and if desired, shelf-table can be fixed to the side lateral outer wall.

In addition, a ready font is often installed water supply systems, its filtration, heating or forced circulation to create massage jets - as a jacuzzi. But this is already - tasks of a different level of complexity that are not considered in this article.

• The last stage, after installing the font in the room or on the street on the , its is in place, ng went for , and the water drain is connected to the sewage pipe.

Video: the work of the master for the manufacture of wooden font

The installation of the Japanese bath ofuro is carried out in much the same way. However, there is also a characteristic feature of - in addition to the font there must be still and wooden grating , which should separate a part of the space for a special furnace directly installed in the water.

The oven has a special, absolutely hermetic design, to prevent the from falling into the water tank. Firewood in such a furnace is laid through the upper of its compartment, and the blowing the is carried out through the hole that is output through the walls of the kuku sang outside.

The other version of the furnace is also used - in the immediate vicinity of the font. The is equipped with a water circuit, through which water circulates, heating and returning to the font. This is somewhat different from the Japanese tradition, but nevertheless the effect gives the almost the same.

Bath ofuro is usually installed on the street, preferably - under a canopy. In the event that is installed in the room, the pipe from the furnace is connected to the chimney or is led out through a wall or a roof.

How to make a concrete font

A concrete font, in fact, is an mini-pool , and therefore its is arranged on the same principle.

• The construction of such a font is enough heavy work, because the first thing to do is - dig under for it pit. It should have a depth slightly less than the shaft of the of the average person, that is approximately 1500 ÷ 1600 mm, plus 170 ÷ 200 mm for laying the sand cushion, reinforcing and pouring cement .The width of the font is made at the request of the owner of the bath and according to the real possibility of the available space.

• The pit for length and width in each direction( or radius - if planned a round font) rips more than the selected size by 150 ÷ ​​170 mm, since this is the thickness that concrete walls will have.
• If it is planned to make a drainage drain at the bottom of the pool, it is necessary to dig a trench of the same depth in the wall closer to the sewage pit, and then lay a branch pipe with the required inclination. But usually in such a font is used for pumping water pump.
• After the foundation pit is ready, sand is poured onto its bottom, which is necessarily moistened and well compacted. The thickness of this sand cushion should be 80 ÷ 100 mm.

• Further, the reinforcing grate from the rod with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm is fixed to the bottom and walls. To the its is fixed using brackets made of 5 mm wire. It should be remembered that the grate should be located at a distance of 50 ÷ 70 mm from the primer wall.
• For the filling of smooth walls, a vertical plywood formwork is installed vertically, which is additionally strengthened with blocks and spacer corners.

The formwork is set in accordance with the level, at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​170 mm from the earthen walls. It usually rises to 120 ÷ 150 mm above the - floor surface to create rails that will not allow water to spill over the surface.

sheets In addition, the plywood wall of the formwork is pierced with blocks that will not allow them to bend under the weight of the filled solution.

• A mortar is poured into the formwork, which, as it solidifies, forms reliable concrete walls of the font.

The surface of the sides is well leveled, and the whole structure is left to freeze, for which it will take about 25 ÷ 28 days.

• After the set of concrete with the necessary strength, it is necessary to remove the formwork and make the coupler on the floor of the font. It should have a total thickness of 60 ÷ 80 mm.
• Next, after the floor is ready, you can proceed to leveling the walls with plaster mixtures. The plaster is applied in such a way that the reliably fills all possible sinks from air bubbles and other surface irregularities.

• The next step is to go to waterproofing works. Waterproof need not only the walls and floor of the pool , but also the walls of the room around it, if the font to them adjoins.

For waterproofing, a special deep penetration impregnation is usually used, which is applied to several layers of the using a wide brush or roller. And with each subsequent layer of impregnation penetrates deeper into the wall, and is able to impregnate with its for a thickness of up to 200 mm. This waterproofing compound penetrates all the pores of the plaster and concrete wall, reliably plugging them from the subsequent penetration of moisture.

• Further, after drying of the waterproofing compound, on the walls around the font and on the its bumps should immediately put the decorative tiles.
• After facing the walls of the around the fonts and its protruding rims, you can proceed to applying liquid rubber or laying ceramic tiles on the walls inside the resulting mini pool.

- If ceramic cladding is selected, it is recommended to choose the option in the form of a fine tile, which is laid on the surface on the waterproof tile adhesive. Grout for sealing seams, too, you need to choose only water resistant.

- Liquid rubber is usually applied by spraying, but you can do it with a roller. The main - create a solid surface on the walls and on the floor of the font. This material forms an even and elastic film that is not afraid of mechanical damage and at the same time - will not allow water to come into contact with concrete walls.

• The last one is mounted the ladder leading to the font. Its can be hooked on the side of the pool, and can be put into the floor next to it, depending on the model chosen.

• It is recommended to make a drainage groove near the pool, along which water draining from the person when it leaves the font will be diverted. The stock is closed on top of the by the grating.

Plastic font

To get rid of the excess x x lopot, you can buy a ready-made plastic capacity font, especially since the produces them in a variety of shapes, and you can not only choose the most suitable, but also order the manufacturer your exclusive version with specific dimensions.

Plastic font can deepen in the floor - this process ss pr is conducted in much the same way as the construction of a concrete mini-pool. Difference - instead of laying ceramic decorative coating or spraying with rubber film is installed plastic capacity.

Another version of is its installation - is assembled in a -built form frame and further paneling( for example, wooden ).

• It is very important to prepare the surface under - perfectly smoothly and smoothly. On it is exposed plastic capacity , in which a hole for drain is pre-made. When installing a branch pipe, its connection with a font you need to waterproof well.
• Next, around the font is mounted a frame of wooden bars, which will be fastened to wooden or plastic panels. The panels themselves in the given by the case do not play the with any carrier roles - they only perform the decorative function. All loads must take on the frame of the bar, so it must be done by the with the reliable and rigid .
• For a skeleton it is necessary to prepare the beams with a section of not less than 50 × 50 mm, and for the outer skin - thin boards( maybe even about 10 ÷ 15 mm thick), but necessarily treated with water-repellent compounds. It is quite applicable plastic panels or lining with a pattern that simulates the texture of wood. Installation of the finishing material is carried out depending on its type.

If a wooden or plastic board is selected, the lath under the is made more frequent, and it is fixed to the with its bars using clamps , which can be screwed, nailed or shot with staples.

If wooden panels are chosen, they are screwed to the carcass with screws into the holes drilled "under sweat ", and the top of the cap is covered with a mixture of joiner glue and sawdust composition.

If you need to coat the corners with the cladding, then they can be closed with special fittings corners - them in this case can simply be glued on "liquid nails".

Assembly of a lining font

The principle of making a lining font is the same as for a large wooden "vessel", but for the it , in the extreme case, you can use even the usual rigid plastic bucket , which can be trimmed from above with wooden slats and tightenedtheir metal hoops.

. Installing a bilge font on the wall with the help of wooden brackets. Two axle shafts provide mobility of fastening. To overturn a font with cold water, rope must be attached to it.

Inside fonts can set a special float mechanism that controls the presence of water in the capacity .After the bucket is emptied, it is automatically filled from the water pipe. In principle, the construction is comparable to the drain by design. Such a variant of the font is not very expensive, is easy to manufacture and install , and has proved its effectiveness with the of bath procedures.

Making a font for yourself - is quite a difficult task. But if desired, even this - is possible. Using step-by-step instructions and applying to for your creativity, you can cope with a similar task. If there is no confidence in its successful completion, then, probably, it will be more reasonable to purchase finished products or to invite for construction of a font of qualified masters.