Metal garage with own hands

Within the city limits now have its own garage for a personal car - an incredible success. But the owners of suburban areas do not have reliable shelter for the car - just embarrassing. It is clear that those who visit their country estates from time to time , only on weekends, are often limited to just a parking area, sometimes supplementing with its with a light canopy. Well, those car owners who spend most of the time in the country or permanently reside there just must build a real garage to protect their car from rain, dust and dirt, windswept, bird "marks" and , .Yes, and sleep much calmer, realizing that your car is locked in a hiding place. Of course, nothing on the reliability compares with the capital brick( brick) garage, but the case is - quite expensive, the process of erection is quite long, and the ability to conduct such large-scale construction work is farnot everyone. It's okay - you can do with a simpler option by building a metal garage with your own hands. With high-quality assembly and good

conducted by insulation, it will also become a comfortable "home" for the car. The costs in this case are much lower, but the basic skills of general construction, plumbing and carpentry are probably the overwhelming majority of Russian men.

Which metal garage to choose for construction?

This question is important from the point of view of the fact that the financial possibilities at all are different and the degree is availableof this or that metal garage - too.

A. The most likely, convenient from the standpoint of erection, option - to purchase a ready-made factory kit containing all the parts necessary for assembly. To assemble such a metal garage with our own hands, using two or three people, using only the simplest metalwork tools - wrenches, screwdrivers , pliers, hammer and ., It's easy and will take completelylittle time. Of course, in the event that the kit is really high-quality, manufactured on modern equipment, and all the details are precisely adjusted to each other.

. Similar sets for the erection of a metal garage are necessarily accompanied by detailed assembly instructions; the responsible manufacturer gives the a guarantee on the quality and fit of your product. The convenience of the is still and in that it is possible to "personify" the order, that is, to give the manufacturer the exact dimensions that correspond to the site allocated for construction and the needs of the owner. On sites of some companies that are engaged in the manufacture of such hardware, there are often special built-in calculators - just enter the dimensions - and the optimal design will be offered.

Video: assembly of the finished garage kit " Zhiguli "

It would seem - that's it, the solution! But only if look at current prices, then the desire to purchase such a garage can immediately and the gap. It's a great luck if you can find the version of the for 70 ÷ 80. As a rule, a standard size garage in the base configuration can cost at least a used domestic car, " zashkalivaya " at a price of a hundred thousand. It is clear that not every average owner of a car will afford such an acquisition.

B. You can, of course, go and other by : to search for ads on the sale of metal prefabricated garages b / from - they are found in quite a lot. The price here, of course, is already lower, but it too is considerable, sometimes reaching 40 ÷ 50 thousand rubles. But, in addition, some other "surprises" may be waiting for the buyer:

- Usually there is a wording "metal collapsible garage used without a seat", andthe new owner is most often charged with the and the duty to dismantle and remove all metal structures. But it is not so easy to disassemble - in several decades of operation the fastening elements can very strongly rust, and if you use "power method" or cutting, then the risk of deforming the parts is great.

- The following - metal parts probably already received certain deformation just "from time", because internal stresses and are affected by the so-called "metal fatigue" .Hence, it is already possible to forget about exact adjustment of them among themselves - for certain at assembly there will be a weight of problems. This, of course, will affect the overall strength of the newly assembled structure.

. And finally, statistics show that fraudulent schemes are often used in this market segment when attackers sell an old garage for which they do not have property rights.

Thus, it is necessary to think out all the details very carefully before buying an old collapsible garage.

B. Finally, we approach the option of completely independent manufacture of the garage. Here already, all will depend on the capabilities and capabilities of the host. He is free to choose and purchase at a reasonable price material for the construction of the frame. It is possible that some parts of the can will produce from "old stocks" left after the construction of the house or dacha.

It is possible to vary and with the material for walling and roofing. If the garage will be under almost constant supervision, then it is possible to confine itself to the metal corrugated board. In case when needs more reliable structure, I use rolled metal sheet 2 ÷ 3 mm, which is definitely much more expensive.

It is also important that the owner himself plans to configure the garage, its perimeter dimensions, height, type of roof - all this allows you to accurately "fit" your project for the available financial opportunities. If the factory garage kit kt pr and is purchased at once, then nothing prevents to conduct a gradual accumulation of necessary materials in order to start building. It is possible to independently determine the technology of erection - whether this structure will be assembled with threaded connections, or it will be better to use welding if there are appropriate skills and equipment.

In a word, why not try everything on your own? Yes, this is certainly more complicated, but with due effort should all turn out.

Base for metal garage

Space for a garage, for sure , is already defined, but it requires appropriate preparation.

First, you need to mark up, and means , and determine the exact size of the future building. It all depends on whether the garage is seen as a narrow, tight box, allowing only to drive the car and open the side door, or there will be elements for the "garage interior" - workbench, racks or cabinet for spare parts and tools and .. Most hosts , of course, will choose the second version of , and in this case the optimal size is 6 × 4 meters.

Door height - from 1.8 to 2 m , with considering the of the host's growth to exclude head injury.

The design should be mounting on on the level and durable base. The optimal solution is the erection of a special foundation. Large loads on the part of the garage itself is not expected, that is, there will not be a deep burial.

• Very often the preference is given to the ribbon foundation. The tape will suffice to deepen the into the ground by 200 ÷ 300 mm, the height of the socle and the width of the - foundation are also of the order of 200 mm. This option is convenient because after the erection of the garage inside you can additionally arrange a viewing pit or even a cellar, and then already produce flooring of any type of garage floor.

To consider with all the nuances of filling the tape foundation in this article there is no sense - all this is much more detailed and more clearly stated in the special publication of the portal.

• Another commonly used option is the so-called floating or slab foundation. In this case, the poured monolithic plate becomes not only the base for the garage construction, but also the rough floor, on which, in principle, it is possible to drive the car.

Whatever type of concrete foundation is used by , it must be carefully leveled horizontally - this greatly will make it easier for to further assemble the garage. It is recommended to fill the ribbon or plate one day, for one day, in order to achieve the required monolithic quality.

A very important issue is the advance installation and immersion of embedded parts in concrete. It can be reinforcement pins with a diameter of 16 mm, protruding above the foundation for 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, or use special mortar anchors with a threaded upper part. A lower belt( tie) of the garage frame will be attached to these parts by welding or threaded connection. Thus, they must be installed and very accurately positioned at least in the corners of the structure, and if necessary, and additionally along the wall line.

• Sometimes a metal garage is placed and does not have a foundation, for example, on an existing asphalted or concreted area. In this case, the fastening of the strapping strap can be carried out with punch anchors.

• Another is an option when the garage is not attached to the surface at all. So, some masters establish their design on wide skids, made of a pipe with a diameter of more than 100 mm. On both sides of the runners, bends are made from a short piece of pipe installed and welded at an angle, or from a branch of the corresponding diameter. Such a garage can be placed on any solid platform, for example, on a layer of crushed and compacted gravel .However, inside the optional it is necessary to make the floors of a thick board capable of withstanding the weight of the car. And besides , it will be necessary to think in entrance ramp , as the gates will rise above the ground level.

Garage frame

Materials and tools required

The key to the successful construction of a metal garage is the reliable and a stable frame. The material for its manufacture can be used - use corners, shaped rectangular pipes, and even galvanized profiles, which are usually designed for gypsum board structures.

are used for the frame. However, it is probably optimal to use profile pipes - they have excellent flexural strengths with a relatively small mass, and the design will be reliable .Their convenience is that both welding and threaded joints can be used.

On the structure of the framework. Here it is difficult to give exact recommendations - it all depends on the size of the building, type roof - single-edged or gable, cladding material and other parameters, including material capabilities.

On the Internet it is very easy to find a lot of schemes and drawings that you can take as a whole or as a basis. In the present publication, the process of mounting a light-weight frame made of two types of profile pipes will be considered. It is assumed that the owner does not have welding or he does not know how to use it - the entire assembly will perform on the threaded connections. Thus, the necessary tools are a standard metalwork kit, horn and socket wrenches for 10 and 12, an electric drill with a 6.5 mm drill, grinder with circles for cutting and grinding metal, screwdriver .In a word - all that , as a rule, is in the "home arsenal" of the owner of a country house. Too much physical effort will not be required, so you can perform work alone, but it's better to get an assistant, so ka has to install enough long and bulky parts.

The scheme of the structure of the garage frame is represented by on the drawing:

The red lines show the main load-bearing parts. For them, a pipe profile of 50 × 25 mm is used. Blue color - four frames, reinforcing the roof structure. The material is the same, 50 × 25 mm.

Green color - additional support racks and cross bars. For them, you can buy a pipe 40 × 20 mm. From the same pipes are manufactured and diagonally standing at the corners of the side walls of the tightening - shown in brown lines. This is an optional element of , which can and not be used.

Total for the frame will be required:

Pipe pieces 50 × 25 mm:

- 6 m - 8 pcs.(4 pieces - horizontal cross-bars of side walls);

- 4 m - 7 pcs.(4 pcs - cross-bars of the front and rear walls, 3 pcs - for the foundation of the pediment truss triangles).

- 3 m - 8 pcs.(for the longitudinal sides of the roof frames).

- 2 m - 12 pcs.(4 pcs - corner posts, 8 pcs. - vertical posts and double-leaf gates).

- 2, 1 m - 6 pcs.(rafter feet).

- 1, 9 m - 8 pcs.(for cross-members of roofing frames ).

Pipe pieces 40 × 20 mm:

- 6 m - 2 pcs.(additional jumpers on the side walls ).

- 4 m - 1 pc.(horizontal reinforcing jumper of the rear wall ).

- 2 m - 8 pcs.(reinforcing racks on the walls).

In addition, M6 bolts with a length of 40 and 60 mm with washers, nuts, with and as well as are required.

In the prices of the current, 2015, such a kit on the metal warehouse is quite feasible to buy for 10 ÷ 12 thousand rubles.

If everything is prepared, you can start assembling the frame.

	All trimmed in size are delivered to the site of assembly of the frame.
	You can immediately check the completeness, lay out the pipes on the site in accordance with the assembly drawing. If there are no fears that they can be stolen, then it will be convenient to hide and leave them laid out in places - less time will then go to selecting the right parts.
	Assembly of the side walls begins. The bars( blue arrow) are fastened with crossbeams, upper and lower. Assembling is carried out using bolts 6 × 60.
	The bolt is tightened first, until the frame is completely installed, until one nut is in place. Then, when the frame is assembled and carefully aligned in the corners, you can make a final tightening with the installation of locknuts.
	After fixing on the upright and lower bars, an amplifying jumper is placed in the center between them. There is a nuance - you can not enter the washer and nut inside the pipe, so you have to use a different method. You can go through both profiles right through, and take the bolt more authentic. Another option - to use a roofing screw for metal. It is advisable to make a through hole only in the upper wall of the upper profile. In the bottom wall( shown by the arrow), as well as on the second profile, the hole is made either of smaller diameter, or only is marked( weaken the wall for a good and reliable passage of the screw). In the same way, the central vertical support pillar is installed in the center of the structure.
	When both sidewalls are ready( blue arrow), they are connected by horizontal jumpers( red arrow).This forms the general, already three-dimensional design.
	In general, the shape of the garage frame is attached. Stability is still not enough for him. It is necessary to reconcile right angles on each side. The building level in this issue is not our helper - there is no guarantee that the bottom is strictly horizontal base. The best option is to measure and compare the diagonals - they should be the same in length. You can fix the rectangle by setting the sloped puffs( shown by arrows).
	Tightening more close-up. Their installation, of course, will increase the overall strength of the structure, but it will require additional details too. In the above list of blanks, for example, they do not appear.
	Stiffness can also be applied to the framework rectangles by using a scarf cut from a metal 2 mm thick. They can be inserted into the connection unit, slightly loosening the screw fastening. Then, tightening, aligning the diagonals is done, two holes are drilled in the headscarf on each side, and it is finally fixed to the structure, securely fixing the angle.
	Let's proceed to assembling triangle-trusses, which will create rafter pairs and unique beams overlap. Here the installation of the parts in the overlay is not too convenient, since there will be difficulties in the further plating of the pediments with metal. It is better to make a cutout on one of the rafter legs in the ridge part, and then insert one into the other, fixing it finally with a bolt or a figured metal cover.
	Likewise, they arrive at the junction of the rafter's leg with a horizontal beam. The grinder makes the corresponding incisions( indicated by an arrow), and then the details are driven into the other and fixed with a bolt or a screwdriver.
	After these triangles are assembled, they are installed and bolted to the horizontal jumpers of the front and rear walls. The picture clearly shows the mutual interfacing of the details - the rafter and the joists, which are inserted into each other.
	The same connector in another view is a top view. Then the same design is attached to the center of the longitudinal side walls of the frame. The only difference is that you can mount a triangle and a simplified scheme, in the overlay - in this place it does not matter.
	You can immediately do pre-preparation for the gate device. For this purpose, the hinges are mounted on the side racks of the frame itself on its front side. To the reciprocal of their half is attached a vertical stand of the gate leaf.
	The very design of garage doors can be different. In this case, the simplest scheme is shown - with two symmetrical flaps, which are rectangular frames of the same profile pipe. Then, when facing with a metal sheet or wood and when insulating, they can be reinforced with puffs or crosspieces.
	It remains to complete the construction of the roof. To do this, prepare four frames, which will stand between the rafter feet on both slopes. To ensure that all sides of the frames are in the same plane( this is necessary for a tight fitting of the roof structure), the joints of the parts are made not in the overlay, but "in a quarter", that is, the grooves are first outlined and cut out. ..
	. .. and then the parts are connected and fixed with a bolt.
	The assembled frames( shown by an arrow) are inserted between already standing trusses and bolted to the rafter feet. In total, four similar frames are to be assembled and installed.
	So in the end the connector in the ridge part of the garage gable will look like.
	As a matter of fact, the skeleton assembly is finished. However, it is worthwhile to make one more clarification - the photo shows the assembled structure, which then undergone some minor changes. It is again a matter of inclined puffs. The operation of such a frame showed that too long( 3 meters and even 4 at the rear) horizontal spans is not a very good solution. Therefore, in the final version, additional vertical racks were used, two on each side and on the back side. This is the version shown in the above drawing.
Illustration of	Description of Technological Transaction

Assembly work

If the garage is to be placed on the foundation, the cage with is easy to attach with anchor bolts or pins. In doing so, do not forget that between the concrete foundation and the metal structure must be laid waterproofing - several layers ruberoid. Then it will only be necessary to tighten completely and lock all junctions, treat all parts with anti-corrosion primer - and you can proceed to the wall covering.

Sheathing of walls and roofs

Actually, the most difficult stage of construction is already behind us. If a high-quality frame is ready, then to lay the outer covering of the walls and put the roof - there will be no labor.

Wall mounting can be carried out both for welding( but only when using a rolled metal plate) and for threaded connections. You can use the bolts by drilling through holes in the vertical and horizontal parts, and then twisting the from inside. When the sheathing from the corrugated board is installed, special self-tapping screws are also acceptable for it. However, it should not be forgotten, that is easy to mount such an attachment to an intruder without opening the garage door, so that like nt pr is named with by a certain caution. Often, rivets are used to fix the corrugated sheet.

Cut sheets are poured as tightly together as possible( if sheet metal is 2 mm thick or more), or overlaps with , with the binding including along the overlap line. When using corrugated board, the task is simplified - there the sheets simply overlap by one wave, thereby aligning vertically.

In the variant of the frame that was considered in the article, it is likely that the will need an and the installation on the outside of the vertical racks of wooden boards( boards) - so that all the details come out on the same plane. Reiki can be fixed to profile pipes with self-tapping screws.

The frame construction of the roof allows any type of wood ( solid or with defined by step) to be applied on it for fixing roofing material. You can do and easier - fasten the sheets of corrugated board directly to the metal parts. True, in our case they are far enough far away, and the crate still does not hurt. Especially it will be necessary if, for example, slate flooring or soft roofing is planned.

When installing the roofing, do not forget about the curtain overhang, at least for 150 ÷ ​​200 mm - this in some way protects the walls from direct rain. More is better, if on both sides provide for the installation of gutters. Since in this case the roof is gable, it will be necessary to have a ridge profile that covers the joint of the two halves of the roof.

Practice shows that the entire garage on the metal frame( which was covered in the article), completely covered with inexpensive profiled sheeting, will cost approximately 25,000 rubles. In this cost, of course, do not include holding "zero cycle" and measures for insulation. But after all, and the with the gaining an expensive prefab garage, the buyer also pays only for the metal box.

Thermal insulation of metal garage

In fact, after carrying out the plating of walls and installing the roof, hinges of the gate with the installation of locks, the work on assembling the metal garage can be considered almost completed .If reliable floor is installed in the garage( if there is a special publication on the portal) is equipped and, if necessary, it is possible to drive car

safely into it

However, the diligent host is not too lazy at yet and to take the measures in order to protect their four-wheeled pet as much as possible from the winter cold or from the metal walls, which are heated by the summer in the sun. In short, it is advisable to immediately tackle the issues of thermal insulation of the garage.

Before carrying out the insulation, it is necessary to check the surface of the metal walls from the inside. If is a bare metal , then it must be treated with anti-corrosion primer.

As a heater, the usual foam polystyrene blocks, with a thickness of about 50 mm, are often used. They are stacked between the frame racks, and the foam can be fixed to the adhesive directly to the surface of the walls. To heat the flow, it is possible to make the lightweight "filings" from the uneven bars to the existing transversal beams by adding the its rough surface( top) from the second-rate boards. Between the beams of such a ceiling frame it will also be easy to lay the insulation blocks.

• Styrofoam is definitely of high thermal insulation quality, is cheap and very convenient to use. But he also has such qualities that put under very much in doubt about the expediency of using it in the garage. First, it is not a non-combustible material, and proximity to flammable liquids will in itself represent a particular threat. In case of fire, such insulation will become one of the foci. And the second is the chemical instability of the material to many technical fluids( for example, organic solvents) often used in garages, especially if the is still and is equipped with a mini workshop. And the probability of getting such chemical reagents on the walls, although small, but still there. And the last - with strong heating ( for example, from hot in the sun of metal walls) polystyrene of low quality can emit a rather sharp smell. It will be very unpleasant, if this smell is impregnated and the interior of the car.

• In terms of practicality and safety, an unconditional leader under these conditions will be mineral wool. ITS rolls( mats) are rolled between the frame racks, or for the insulation is specially mounted on the walls inside the wooden crate .The step of the guides and their thickness should ideally correspond to the width and thickness of the roll Minvats .Temporarily fixing the insulation wake = t is easy, pulling between the adjacent rails a zigzag pattern of nylon cord.

• The most reliable solution will be spraying on the inner surface of the garage walls of liquid polyurethane foam. He quickly dials volumetric form and freezes in a solid layer, leaving no "cold bridges".The disadvantage of this approach to insulation is one - alone, without special equipment and work skills, it is impossible to conduct it, and services for thermal insulation are very expensive.

Video:

Thermal Insulation is covered with a surface finish of the walls and the floor. Most often for this use either plywood, or that is much better OSB sheets. After this cladding, you can proceed to the arrangement of garage furniture, installation of lighting fixtures( if any), canopy shelves or lockers and .

Very detailed garage insulation issues are discussed in a separate publication of the portal. It, however, is more devoted to the insulation of the gate, but in the case of the frame metal garage, the technology is absolutely the same.

All, it remains to bring the final gloss, if necessary - paint the garage outside with a weatherproof paint for metal - and you can "celebrate a housewarming"!

Video: simple version of light metal garage or barn