Bath of cinder blocks by own hands

Even the owners of those private houses "with all conveniences", then have in which has and hot water supply and equipped bathroom, all and in its most always think about their own bath. No bath or shower will give such relaxation, relaxation, the notion of mood and a burst of vitality. And if you take into account the and the fact that the bath is often assumed as a place of comfortable rest in a good company, then the desire to have such a construction on the site is quite understandable.

It's just not always possible to erect the traditional real log cabin by the strength of - they may not allow the excessively high costs for such construction, and good carpentry skills for self-erecting quickly can not be obtained. Therefore, many site owners are looking for alternative construction options that the would have inexpensive, and which could accomplish most, with the help of relatives or friends. For example, as one of the options can be a bath of cinder blocks with their own hands.

Read the brief instruction on the peculiarities of the construction of a bath from cinder blocks - , is probably the one that will be the most accessible for independent execution.

A few words about slag blocks

First you need to take a closer look at this building material - slag blocks. It is not entirely customary, therefore, when building a bath it will be necessary to take into account some of its specific features.

As it is clear from the very name, these blocks were made from the waste of the steel industry at the dawn of their appearance. So at the same time solved to a certain extent the problem of utilization of huge waste of slag and construction materials.

Slag is crushed, sorted by fractions, initially prepared and moistened, and then mixed with with cement in the proportion of 10 : 1. This mass is delivered to the site of molding, whereVibro-stands it is filled with special forms, which allow obtaining both monolithic and hollow blocks. After that, the products are delivered to the autoclave drying or steaming section, where the strength necessary for storage and final "ripening" is rapidly gained.

There are many types of slag blocks of various linear dimensions( as a rule - quite impressive, much more than a standard brick), and with varying degrees of voidness .For example, the table shows several types of blocks of industrial production.

Monolithic wall slag block	Slag block with a hollowess of 28%	Slag block with a cavity of 30%, two cylindrical cavities
Slag block with a 30% cavity, three cylindrical cavities	Slag block with a cavity of 30%, four rectangular cavities	Slag block with a cavity of 40%

Slagblock production is engaged inmany enterprises and private firms that have access to a cheap or even free source of raw materials. Often owners of houses also practice the independent manufacture of such a building material - the molds are easy to make, and the vibrating table too. A process with ears can be carried out and in "atmospheric" conditions, placing your production site under a canopy to protect the molded blocks from rain and direct sunlight.

By the way, the concept of "cinder blocks" now can hide blocks made with the use of other loose materials, industrial waste or construction waste - broken brick, crushed crushed stone or expanded clay and , .

What advantages are inherent in slagblocks:

• Simplicity and cheapness of production - cement is required very little, and the filler is more often than in general costs nothing. You can also manufacture the slagblocks and yourself.
• Industry-produced slag blocks usually have very precise geometric dimensions, which simplifies the process of erecting the walls of the .
• It is not difficult to work with slag blocks, and their large dimensions allow to raise walls very quickly.
• Material absolutely is fireproof .

Unfortunately, there are a lot of shortcomings and "weaknesses" in cinderblocks. Some need to take into account the with the acquiring a batch of material, with the other will have to "fight" during the construction:

• Slag blocks can not be attributed to completely environmentally friendly materials. The hitch is in the original raw , since blast furnace slags can often give a radioactive background or contain chemical constituents that are not harmful to humans. Therefore, when buying, do not rush too cheap goods that do not have a certificate of compliance - unfortunately, not all manufacturers differ in decency in this matter.

• Blocks are not characterized by high frost resistance. Usually this indicator lies in them within F15 ÷ F30( cycles of deep freezing and thawing).This means that the walls themselves require good thermal insulation.
• Slag-concrete is a very heat-conducting material, that is, the building them it will not have good protection neither from winter cold, nor from summer heat. In the defined by , this is solved using hollow blocks, however cold bridges all will be equally significant. It is still one argument to the fact that the bath of their cinderblocks will require reliable double-sided thermal insulation.
• The material of the blocks is hygroscopic, absorbs moisture well and tends to gradually degrade under with its effect. This makes special demands on hydro and steam insulation. Since the speech comes about the bath, this protection will need to be equipped with on both sides of the walls.
• The material has very modest sound-absorbing qualities, that is, it quite freely passes noises from the street. However, for a bath this parameter is not so important.
• Slag-concrete has a high hardness , which makes it difficult to handle( cutting, drilling, hose ), but at the same time fragile enough - the fallen block can easily crack. This means that special care is taken when transporting, and when carrying out work.
• The large size of the blocks is convenient for fast wall masonry, but this will require considerable physical effort, since the weight of the in the blocks, especially the wall monolithic ones, is considerable.
• On the wall of cinder block the plaster is very poorly maintained. However, if external insulation of walls is carried out, then the paneling of the facade with panel materials is more often used.
• It must be prepared for the fact that in the cinder block, even a monolithic, is unreliable fixed dowels. Depending on the type of blocks, it will be necessary to select special fasteners for unstable, loose bases or for hollow walls.

All this is described in detail in order for the land owner planning to build a bath of cinder blocks, firmly realized that the cheapness of the material and the high speed of the walls are poured into a whole heap of other additional problems that the will have soor else to decide. If this circumstance does not frighten, then it is possible to purchase( make) blocks and start work.

Video: Characteristics, main advantages and disadvantages of cinder blocks

Bath project

Starting the work of without drawing up an project, even if not executed in all architectural canons - is impossible. Taking for independent construction, the host must clearly in advance to know which part of the territory is allocated for the construction of the bath, what is its area.

It is very useful to have information about the state of the soil in the chosen place - this determines the type and depth of the foundation, the sewage system or the drainage pit. It should immediately provide for what kind of necessary communications will be supplied( water, electricity, possibly - the gas main) and how they will be introduced into the building of the bath( under earth or by air).

As a rule, a sauna is not too big on a typical countryside site, especially if the is talking about a building from slag blocks. Quite enough will be buildings up to 6, widths up to 4 and walls height up to 2.5 ÷ 3 meters. Such a compact structure will not be difficult to warm up with good thermal insulation. Even with such dimensions, it is possible to divide the inner area by 3 ÷ 4 rooms, which are necessary in the bath-hall( vestibule), rest room, washing room( shower) and the steam room itself.

Actually, the project is easy to compile and independently, if there is an at least initial skills in this area. For these purposes, many applications have been developed, with a Russian interface, simple enough and intuitive.

The convenience of their is also the and the fact that such applications allow not only to draw a plan with observing all the necessary sizes by "locating" windows and doors. It is possible to go into 3D viewing mode and even virtually "walk" around the building and through its premises.

In addition, the programs will help to determine the required number of materials - they have the function of such calculation .

With the design of the bath, the entire series of specific requirements must be taken into account - this is described in detail in the relevant article of our portal.

If the propensity for independent design is not - does not matter. On the Internet and freely available, and for the certain card, you can find( or order) the necessary project that will have to like to the owners of and will correspond to the size of allocated for .

Having before the eyes of the project, it will be easy to calculate the required number of blocks for building the walls of the bath. For example, refer to our drawing and to the blocks shown in the table above:

• Assume that blocks with are empty with of 40%.The size of one on the front side of the is 390 × 188 mm .For 10 m m m You can safely give the thickness of the seam. Thus, with the permissible accuracy of approximation, it is possible to take the 400 × 200 mm .So, the useful area of ​​one block is 0,08 m²
• The height of the walls of the future bath in the project is 2400 mm .It is easy to calculate that it will be necessary to lay out the 12 series.
• Define the perimeter as and create the total height of the wall:

( 6.2 × 2 + 3.7 × 2) × 2.4 = 47.52 m²

• Divide the total area of ​​the by area of ​​ of one unit. So, for the construction of solid walls you will need:

47,52 : 0,08 = 594 of the

• block. On the walls we have: one door 0 , 88 × 2, size 0 m , two windows 0.9× 1, 2 m and one ventilation window 0,2 × 0,8 .Here the masonry will not be carried out, so this area can be subtracted:

0,88 × 2,0 + 2 × 0,9 × 1,2 + 0,8 × 0,2 = 4,08 m²

• Divide by the areablock:

4,08 : 0,08 = 51 block

• Subtract them from the total:

594 - 51 = 543 of the block.

• Probably, it makes sense to have at least a small stock. Add more 7 pieces for the flat account - 550 blocks.

The calculation of for other materials required for construction and finishing is carried out by other methods, but their consideration is beyond the scope of our publication - all this can easily be found on the pages of our portal.

After drawing up the project and carrying out calculations, the can go directly to the construction of the bath.

Fundament nt for i baths from cinder blocks

The work begins with the marking of the site, fixing the position of the future structure in accordance with the plan of the site territory. If the requires an , the site is planned( leveled), removed from the stones, stumps and other dimensional obstacles for the construction.

Further work will depend on what type of foundation will be chosen for the bath. There are no big loads here - the structure is small, but without reliable support, nevertheless - can not do. And the choice of the foundation basically depends on the characteristics of the soils on the site of construction.

On a stable, dense, stony or sandy ground it will be quite possible to dispense a columnar foundation, raising it to a height of 300 ÷ 500 mm from the ground level. The pillars-supports will need to be connected with each other by reinforced concrete belt - grillage, which will become basis for further masonry. This method allows you to significantly save on the consumption of cement.

If the soil is unstable, clayey, prone to swelling, the will have to fill the strip foundation with .The main condition - the tape should rise above the ground level by 400 ÷ 500 mm. This is due to the fact that, as already mentioned, cinder blocks do not "like" water, so you need to warn capillary its ascent on the base, and hit the spigot and rain, and the kt blat shackle with snowdrifts. If it is not possible to fill the concrete strip with such a height, then the will have to lay the base to the desired height from waterproof silicate brick or other blocks.

After foundation pouring, it must be opened up to the base and must be waterproofed with walls( posts) with special bituminous mastic or roll materials on bitumen basis to a minimum of 200 ÷ 300 mm from the ground, or better to the very top.

Whatever foundation is built , after full readiness, its horizontal plane is subject to mandatory waterproofing of 2 ÷ 3 layers ruberoid, best of all - hot-laid on molten mastic. The block laying will begin with from this insulation coating - this will completely eliminate the threat of capillary penetration of moisture from the ground onto the walls.

When installing the foundation, one should not forget about leaving the channels in the tape for the passage of communications or for providing the with ventilation of the underground space.

If the soil on the site is very complex, marshy, is deeply freezing , with a close location of the vane, then you can use modern technology for installing steel screw piles. After screwing, they are connected at a selected height with a steel grill( channel), from which will go further erection of the bath.

There are still one small, but important nuance. If a massive brick oven is planned to be installed in the bathhouse, then the is also pre-made with a foundation. At the same time, the foundation for of stove construction should not be connected with the general one - the loads here are completely different, and the shrinkage can be uneven.

More information on the technology of erecting the foundation for the construction of the bath can be found by reading the corresponding article of of our portal.

Wall masonry from cinder blocks

In fact, this is one of the main features of the construction of a bath of cinder blocks.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Beginning, of course, with the preparation of mortar for masonry:

• It must be homogeneous, without solid large inclusions, that is, sand for it must necessarily be sieved. Minor clay inclusions of the "weather" will not spoil - they will only improve the plasticity of the solution.
• The optimal proportion is the ratio of 1 part of cement grade M400 and 4 parts of sand. Water with mixing should be added very carefully to prevent the from its overabundance - too liquid solution seriously will make work more difficult.
• The consistency of the solution must be such that the mass is plastic, easily distributed along the planes - horizontal and vertical, and at the same time - itself did not spread .For a long time, lime additives have been actively used for this. Currently, a considerable selection of special plasticizers is presented in construction shops - they are used in accordance with the attached instructions for use. However, the experienced masters suggest still one interesting, inexpensive and very effective way.
• Speech comes about the use of ordinary kitchen washing tool - any, for dishes or for washing floors, only without the chlorine component. Adding it to the solution makes the mass extremely plastic and very convenient for the mason's work.

The consumption is very small - you can add 10 ml of concentrate, diluted in water when kneading the solution on a bag( 50 kg) of cement. Such an additive not gives absolutely no negative effect on the strength of the masonry - the adhesion of the composition to the blocks from this only the wins.

When the solution is ready, go directly to the masonry. Its technology may differ slightly - depending on the type of units. Below are step by step the basic techniques of for laying monolithic and hollow cinderblocks.

Masonry of monolithic cinder blocks

Miniature	Description of the process
	We proceed from the fact that the foundation is already ready and covered with a layer of waterproofing. The figure is taken as an example, but we remember that the height of the socle should be approximately 500 mm.
	They always start from the corners. Lay out in each of them two docking blocks of the first row, overlap "in the dressing" with one block of the second row. Comprehensive control of the horizontality of the starting masonry is necessary - from it in many respects the evenness of all the rows will depend.
	A similar operation is performed at all angles. It is mandatory to specify the length and width of the future building, very careful measurements of these parameters are made, plus, to monitor and compare the diagonals - this will allow to check the correctness of the specified rectangle. The laid out corner blocks must be at the same height. After all is exposed and completely checked, the cord is stretched, which will be the reference point for laying the row.
	For laying the block on a horizontal plane, a solution is applied and distributed( first - on the surface of the foundation tape, and then, as you go up - the previous stacked row).The thickness of the applied layer should be about 20 ÷ 25 mm - so that after the installation of the block the width of the resulting weld should be 10 ÷ 15 mm.
	The same layer is applied to the vertical face of the previous block. If the solution is mixed according to all the rules, then it will perfectly stay on the surface.
	The cinder block is laid. He should fit his weight well into the solution. To stack it is necessary so that the block at once has occupied a correct position which then it will be simple to correct. A guideline will serve as a stretched cord, which determines both the height of the block and its location along the front.
	To correct the position and complete subsidence in the solution, the unit is taped with a trowel handle or, if it is more convenient for the master, to use a rubber hammer. If there is little experience in the clutch, and the eye is not sharpened like a real professional, then it's better not to be lazy, but to check the evenness of the masonry with the help of a building level.
	The solution that comes out at the seams is immediately selected by the trowel. They immediately fill the remaining voids at the seams, if they are left, or small defects of the blocks themselves. If not, then the selected solution will go to the next unit.
	The cycle is repeated - again applying the solution to the surface, etc.

Masonry of hollow core slag blocks

When laying hollow cinderblocks, the technology changes somewhat. The point is, to prevent the from allowing to overspend the masonry solution, which the can fall into the cavity, and leave them empty to allow the to retain the air layer effect.

Miniature	Description of the process
The first, the lowest row is laid on a continuous layer of masonry mortar deposited on a waterproofed foundation tape. The only difference is the docking of neighboring blocks - this will be shown below.
	In the future, the solution is laid out only on the outer edges of the already installed blocks, on both sides, in the form of a small, 20 ÷ 25 mm parapet.
	It is convenient to do this by dialing the solution on the trowel in small portions and touching the block plane with longitudinal movements forming such a longitudinal slope. The solution is not applied to the transverse edges of the hollow block.
	It is advisable to perform two residual long parapet at once, as a reserve for masonry - the work in the future should go quickly. Pay attention to the snapshot - on the already installed in this row the block also has two bands of a solution of the same thickness along its vertical angles.
	The next block is taken.
	On the vertical face, which it will dock with already laid, all the same mortuary mortars are applied - first on one side. ..
	. .. and then on the second one.
	The unit is installed in its place and initially pressed with effort manually. The thickness of the seam should be the same - from 10 to 15 mm.
	For adjustment, the unit is taped with a trowel or rubber hammer. Naturally, the horizontality of the series and the smoothness of the facade along the front are controlled.
	The solution is immediately selected by the trowel. It is impossible to admit that at the seams there are cracks - they are immediately closed up, and the solution is leveled flush with the outer and inner surface of the wall.
	The trowel selected by the trowel is immediately used to form the rollers on the end part of only one hundred of the stacked block. All the same, first from one side. ..
	. .. and then with the opposite
	Next, the next block is taken - and so the work is repeated cyclically. With a "stuffed hand" the process passes quickly and with a very economical use of the masonry solution.

• Probably, it will be superfluous to say that the masonry is carried by the " in the dressing" with a displacement of half the length of the block. Immediately leave the planned window and the faithful openings . For sure , during the operation of will have to cut the blocks. So, for example, the vertical surfaces of openings of , when laying the wall of their hollow blocks, should be lined with only with the whole end face. Unlike the foam concrete, the usual cutting tool t t and the hacksaw will not be a good helper here. Slag-concrete is a very dense structure with pronounced abrasive qualities, and the usual tool will be its crumb, itself very quickly while is blunting .So, you need to prepare angle-grinding machine - "bulgarku" with a special circle for cutting stone.
• Another one important point about the which some novice builders, alas, forget is the reinforcement of the masonry from the blocks. When using monolithic blocks, this is the recommended procedure, but if hollow ones are used, reinforcement is simply necessary.

The drawing shows an exemplary schematic of the arrangement of the reinforcing elements in the masonry:

How can execute its ?

Some slag blocks produced by the industry already have a special groove( one or two) in which you can lay the reinforcing bar.

If there is no such groove, then it is up to to do it - it is quite problematic, because of the hardness of and the fragility of cinderblock. In this case it is better to use special reinforcing metal nets of the necessary width - they are sold by rolls of several meters in each. Such a grid spreads over the stacked row in the right place, and the laying of the next blocks is carried out on the by the .

• Next question - jumpers over window and door openings . It is possible for to build a formwork over each of them and fill the reinforced concrete belt. But in this case of will have wait until the concrete in the jumper does not dial at least 70% of the strength. Another option is the installation of metal jumpers , for example, from a channel or two corners connected by crossbars. With this option, the masonry can be continued along the bridge, taking into account, of course, the reinforcement requirements specified above on the scheme.
• And, finally, the question of the uppermost row, if the masonry is made from hollow blocks. One of the - variants is to use monolithic blocks for this purpose. Can do otherwise. Before the last series, all needs to be reinforced( see diagram), and the mesh laid there will help us. Blocks of blocks about to the middle are filled with large fragments of construction waste( the grid will not allow them to fail), and the remaining space is filled with concrete mortar, which is then leveled along the upper edge of the blocks.
• Some hosts prefer to do additional piping of the entire masonry on top of the with reinforced concrete belt, about 100 ÷ 150 mm in height. If there is a desire and material, then this is completely justified - such strengthening will contribute to the strength of the entire structure.

Video: the technique of laying monolithic cinder blocks

Roof

For a small bath it does not make sense to start some complicated roof - it will be quite ordinary gable. You can also make a one-track , but then it will have to be taken into account immediately in order to bring the laying of walls to different heights. However, two-edged all is better from the point of view of the operation of the bath - it is more warm for account of the air interlayer of the attic space, and in the attic itself you can, for example, arrange storage and dryer for sauna brooms.

The roof for the bath of cinder block practically does not differ from other buildings. A lot of useful information can be obtained by visiting a special section of our portal dedicated specifically to the roof and roof .However, one thing about the is .

The fact is that in connection with the peculiarities of cinderblock, which was mentioned above, reliably fixed to it massive mauerlat - the task is not easy. It will be simpler to do without it, using only cross beams overlap.

Under them in the built walls it will be possible to cut the grooves, or in general in advance to embed the beams still when laying the blocks. Rafting legs will rest on them, at the same time, by the way, forming the necessary eaves.

And on the beams then it will be easy to sew the ceiling, hold between them the thermal insulation of the attic floor and lay the attic floor.

Thermal insulation of the walls of a cinder bath

Perhaps the last, than a bath of cinder blocks, differs significantly from buildings made of other materials - this is the obligatory finishing of walls with two-sided thermal and waterproofing. This is connected, again, to the with the specific features of the wall material.

Already mentioned and "rabies" cinder, and its very low thermal insulation properties, and the bath by definition should be warm room, and the humidity level there is always increased.

• Inside the insulation is understandable - just by the logic of things inside should be warm wall. But at the same time before installing the insulation on the walls themselves, a layer of waterproof film, for example, regular polyethylene, with a thickness of at least 200 micrometers, must be laid. Overlaps of adjacent sheets should be at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm wide and glued with a waterproof tape - the road should be completely covered with wet evaporation from the inside.

Then the guide rails are fastened to the walls, between which the heater will be laid. It also needs to be protected from excess moisture by the same with the film.

Here, when installing the crate of the , it is already possible to meet with surprises that the fastening elements refuse to be held in the wall. Hence, will have to experiment with in order to find the most acceptable output. For example, it is possible to install dowels in the holes for "liquid nails", for gypsum or cement mortar, or to use special spacer or two-way anchorages( they have already been mentioned) or special dowels for loose and porous substrates. It is recommended to drill holes with a diameter of approximately 1 m m m and it is necessary to remove all dust from them, for example, with a vacuum cleaner, before installing the dowel or anchor.

. If the walls are made of hollow blocks, special dowels or butterfly anchors may come to the rescue, in with , when the central bolt is screwed in, the metal "skirt" crumples, thus creating a belt- it must reliably to hold fasteners in the wall.

" will be optimal. Under normal conditions, thermal insulation boards are conveniently fastened with special dowels - " fungi, and on cinder blocks it can and it does not work out - they just pop up from nests.The output is simple: as as indoor baths. Mineral basalt wool is usually used( EPS is highly undesirable, is so is not dangerous at high temperatures and is not safe from the fire point of view), then the blocks from it can be fixed between the guides the zigzagging of the strained capron cord .

Otherwise, the interior decoration with insulation is not much different from what is done in other baths. In the therma with the help of an additional foamed insulation is arranged a "thermos" with subsequent sewing with natural wood. In the wash it is advisable to fix the waterproof gypsum board on crate , on which it will be very convenient to lay ceramic tiles. Well, in dresser trim you can hold on its discretion, for example, lining it with a lining.

Now go on the rough walls. If with other materials, often , can be limited to internal insulation, then with cinder block this number is not will pass .The dew point is now located inside the wall, closer to the of its inner surface, which means that the walls will begin to die, and for a long time this sauna will not last. It is necessary to bring this point outward, into the insulation layer, while organizing a ventilated facade system, so that the condensed moisture has a free outlet into the atmosphere.

The technology for warming the ventilated facade is very detailed in one of their publications on our portal - it makes sense to look at the link. And the features in our case are the same: poor retention of fasteners in the walls. How to get out of the situation - it was already said. If foamed polystyrene panels are used for insulation, can be attached to surface of walls between rails using building adhesives for exterior work.

Of course, a wooden bath always looks on the plot advantageously. However, for cladding it is possible to use both natural wood and metal or plastic "block house" - no one will ever understand that the walls are lined with inexpensive cinder blocks.

. For all the remaining stages, the construction of the bath from cinder blocks is no different from the construction of similar structures from other materials. All this is very detailed in the pages of the portal.

And in conclusion - a clear example of the construction of a small bath from cinder blocks.

Video: erection of a bath from cinder blocks