Summer kitchen with own hands

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In the warm season, especially during the conservation period, the presence of a summer kitchen greatly facilitates the cooking process and makes it more pleasant. It is not necessary to hire specialists for construction - all the steps can be performed independently. If you select the right materials, the summer kitchen will not be too expensive, which is very important for the economical owner.

Summer kitchen with own hands

Summer kitchen with own hands

Types of summer kitchens

Contents of the article

  • 1 Types of summer kitchens
    • 1.1 Kitchen of closed type
    • 1.2 Open kitchen
  • 2 Where to build
  • 3 Open kitchen construction
    • 3.1 Step 1. Layout
    • 3.2 Step 2. Filling the foundation
    • 3.3 Step 3. Installing the bearing supports
    • 3.4 Step 4. Installing the canopy
    • 3.5 Step 5. Installing the floor
    • 3.6 Step 6. Kitchen arrangement
  • 4 Building the closed kitchen
    • 4.1 Step 1. Layout
    • 4.2 Step 2. Preparing the foundation
    • 4.3 Step 3. Assembling the bottom piping
    • 4.4 Step 4. Summer kitchen - log house
    • 4.5 Video - Shooping
    • 4.6 Step 5. Assembling the roof
    • 4.7 Step6. Kitchen arrangement
    • 4.8 Video - Summer kitchen with their own hands

Summer kitchens can have a closed and open design. Both species are widely used in country and suburban areas. To determine which species to stop choosing, you should study all the advantages and disadvantages of such buildings.

Closed kitchen

Summer cuisine

Summer kitchen

This kitchen has windows, doors and roof as a full house. There are options combined with a bath or a summer shower, a cellar, a workshop, with a veranda attached for eating and rest. Usually light materials are chosen for construction and the building is not insulated, so the building is not used in winter. At the same time, there are kitchens made of brick and foam blocks, which are more durable and can be insulated if necessary.

Design of a summer kitchen project

Design of the summer kitchen design

Advantages of closed constructions:

  • reliable protection against rain, wind, dust and insects;
  • additional accommodation during the arrival of guests;
  • full preservation of valuable items and products.
    Summer kitchen of closed type

    Summer kitchen of closed type

    Summer kitchen with veranda

    Summer kitchen with veranda

Cons:

  • an enclosed kitchen requires more materials, so it costs more;
  • for the project will require additional calculations;
  • construction process is more time-consuming and time-consuming.

This option is more suitable for country houses, where the owners live permanently. But at the dacha, which is empty in winter, the construction of a closed kitchen is not always justified.

Closed summer kitchen at the cottage

Closed summer kitchen in the country house

Open kitchen

Open-plan kitchen

Open kitchen

Open kitchens are built on the principle of arbors: concrete or tiled base, supporting pillars along the perimeter, roof-shed. Under the canopy set the oven, kitchen table, benches. Sometimes the kitchen is made without a canopy, if you use it exclusively for cooking on holiday on clear days. The building material for an open kitchen is most often wood, brick, natural stone.

Summer kitchen - project with barbecue

Summer kitchen - project with barbecue

Advantages:

  • small construction costs;
  • simple technology and minimum calculations;
  • speed of construction.
    The project of construction, combined with an open kitchen

    Construction project combined with open kitchen

Cons:

  • can not be used during cold periods;
  • no wind and insect protection;
  • weak protection against rain and damp;
  • can not be left behind.
  • all furniture that will be there, it is necessary to hide for the winter in closed dry premises, otherwise it will quickly rot.

Where to build the

Arbor with summer kitchen

Summerhouse with a summer kitchen

The location of the kitchen is very important. Khozdvor, compost and cesspool should be kept as far as possible, but communications, on the contrary, is closer. The kitchen will have to draw water, connect electricity, so it is best if the plot for construction is near the house. You can not choose a place in the lowland, otherwise the floor will dampen. A closed kitchen can be attached to the house, and an open one is best placed in the garden or at the pond, away from the road.

Construction of an open kitchen

Drawing of a summer kitchen from a bar on a columnar foundation

Drawing a summer kitchen from a bar on a columnar foundation

There are many options for building an open kitchen, but the main steps are always the same: marking and preparation of the place, foundation installation, installation of bearing supports, roof installation and interior arrangement of the room.

Appearance of the kitchen

Appearance of the kitchen

For work you will need:

  • level;
  • shovel;
  • pegs and twine;
  • measuring tape, sand and gravel;
  • cement mortar;
  • pieces of fittings;
  • timber 150x150 mm;
  • circular saw;
  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer and nails;
  • metal angles;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • board thickness of 25 mm;
  • primer.

Step 1. Layout

The selected area is cleaned of all unnecessary and remove the turf. Determine one of the corners of the building and drive a peg into the ground, and then from it measure the width and length of the area under the kitchen. In each of the corners put the beacons-pegs and pull the string between them. Check the correctness of the marking on the diagonals - they should be the same length. After that, inside the marking, soil is selected to a depth of 15-20 cm, leveled and compacted.

Step 2. Filling the foundation

Determination of the pit depth

Determining the pit depth

The pit

Trench

Formwork laying

Laying the formwork

Stacking of fittings

Fixing the fittings

Pouring concrete

Filling the concrete

Foundation

Foundation

The bottom of the excavation is covered with an even layer of sand, leveled, well compacted. If necessary, lay the communication pipes along the bottom, crushed stone falls on top. Lay the reinforcing mesh, at the corners of the site insert metal bars with a height of 20 cm, set the perimeter of the formwork of the boards. The formwork height above the ground surface should be about 10 cm;using the level on the inner side of the formwork, mark the filling line of the mortar so that the area is even. Mix concrete and pour it into the formwork, focusing on the markings. Pipes of communication are closed with plugs, otherwise the solution can get inside. The surface is leveled by the rule, after which the foundation is left until it dries completely.

Also the foundation for the kitchen can be made columnar type, using bricks. Marking is carried out in a manner similar to a monolithic foundation, after which a square pit shape is dug up to 50 cm deep. The bottom of the pit is filled with sand and compacted, then a metal rod is inserted around which brickwork is made. The height of the pillars of the foundation is checked by the level. If necessary, the columns are leveled with an additional layer of cement.

Marking for laying foundation pillars

Marking for laying foundation pillars

Base of foundation

Baseplate

The photo shows waterproofing

The photo shows the waterproofing

Stacking the bottom strapping

Laying the lower harness

Lower piping and lags laid

The lower strapping and the ladders

is laid. The lower strapping of the bar will be fastened to the bars of the armature, which is joined by the "paw" method. The beam is laid on the roofing material, previously glued with bitumen to each column. On the lower strapping are mounted logs of the rough floor from the edging board.

Step 3. Installation of bearing supports

Installation of support beams

Installation of supporting beams

Installation of support beams

Installation of supporting beams

Support Rack

Supporting posts

In the lower ends of the beam, drill holes for reinforcing bars protruding from the foundation. Front pillars make 20 cm above the rear, so that it would be more convenient to mount the canopy. Set the bars at the corners of the platform, set the level, and then fix them to the base metal plates on the anchor bolts. On the upper edge of the pillars are connected with a strap from a bar, and at an altitude of 70-80 cm from the floor horizontal jumpers are mounted.

Scheme of roof rafter system

Roof rafters system

Calculating the slope of the roof

Calculation of the roof slope

Scheme of insulation of a saddle roof

Scheme for the insulation of the saddle roof

The photo shows roof rafters and a canopy

The roof rafters and the

Rims

canopy are visible on the photo.

Roof and visor

roofing. The

Roof and visor

roof. The roof and the visor

Table. Slope of the roof depending on the cover

Roof material Mass sq. M.m( without base), kg Approximate durability, years Roof pitch, deg.
Sheet steel, black 3-5 20-25 16-30
Galvanized steel 3,5-6 30-40 16-30
Ruberoid 4-13 13-15 4-27
Roof tiles 40-50 60 and more 30-45
Asbestos cement 14-20 40-45 27-50

Step 4. Assembling the canopy

To the top harness, the primed boards are beaten according to the width of the structure every 50 cm.strengthen with metal angles, so that the canopy does not break off when the wind is strong. Over the boards floor waterproofing material, fill thin slats and lay slate or corrugated sheets.

Canopy

Canopy

Step 5. Floor installation

The most optimal solution will be tiling. It is not afraid of moisture, it is easily cleaned of dirt, easily tolerates temperature changes. The wooden flooring in the open kitchen quickly deteriorates under the influence of atmospheric moisture, shrinks from the sun, is damaged by insects, and therefore requires regular maintenance. So, take a tile, a tile glue, a notched trowel and begin the flooring. Lay the tile off the corner: apply a little solution on the back surface, put it on the floor and level it.

On the photo there is a tile of ceramic granite for the street

On the photo - tiles for porcelain tiles for the street

To make the joints as level as possible, use special plastic crosses that are inserted at the joints. The laying is constantly controlled by the level, otherwise the coating will be uneven. If the kitchen is planned to install a real wood stove or barbecue, the floor beneath them should not be faced. After the work is completed, the seams are cleaned of dust and mortar residues, and then rubbed with a special mixture.

Step 6. Kitchen arrangement

For greater comfort, the space between the floor and horizontal bridges can be trimmed with boards or covered with wooden curtains, leaving the doorway free. Install a stove, benches and a table, supply electricity and water. In conclusion, the wooden surfaces are covered with stain and varnish or painted, protecting the wood from the effects of the environment.

Sorting table for open summer kitchen

Sorting table for the open kitchen of the kitchen

Construction of the closed kitchen

Closed kitchens are also very diverse, but the most convenient and easy to perform is the frame structure of the bar on the columnar foundation. It is recommended to use OSB boards or slabs for cladding.

In the process of work you will need:

  • circular saw;
  • jigsaw;
  • drill and screwdriver;
  • building level;
  • shovel;
  • hammer;
  • measuring tape;
  • dry planed beams 100x100 mm;
  • board thickness of 25 mm;
  • long cord and pegs for beacons;
  • ruberoid;
  • cinder block;
  • cement mortar;
  • construction studs;
  • working off;
  • nails and screws;
  • sand.

Step 1. Layout of the plot

Layout of the plot

Layout of the plot

The selected plot should be prepared: level the elevations, remove the tall grass, stones, garbage. Now we need to determine where the facade line will be located, and put on it 2 beacons. The distance between the pegs is equal to the length of the facade. Perpendicular to this line, the length of the side walls is measured from each beacon and also labeled. Between the beacons pull the cord, and in the formed rectangle make measurements of the diagonals. If they are equal, the markup is executed correctly. In the center of each side of the future kitchen and at the intersection of diagonals, it is also necessary to drive in pegs - these are marks for intermediate pillars.

Step 2. Preparing the foundation

Pit

Pit

The spade digs pits in the marked pegs to a depth of 40 cm;The dimensions of the pit must correspond to two laid down slag blocks. The walls and the bottom of the pits are leveled, a 10 cm layer of sand is poured in and tampered. Two lower slag blocks are laid on the sand, covered with mortar, and the center stud is inserted so that it rises above the soil surface by about 25-30 cm. Then the second row of cinder block is placed on top of the first, again the mortar and the third row. The finished posts must have the same height and be on the same level.

Step 3. Assembling the lower strap

Installation of the lower strapping

Assembling the lower strap

The lower strap consists of two rows of beams, knocked together. All the bars are abundantly missed with used oil, paying special attention to the sections, and then dried. In the beams of the lower row, make holes for the studs, and in the upper cut the grooves under the crossbeams of the floor. The depth of the grooves corresponds to half the thickness of the bar, and the width is equal to the thickness of the crossbar.

On top of the poles lay pieces of roofing felt, putting them directly on the studs. The lower bars are applied to the poles, marking the location of the stud, drill holes of the appropriate diameter. Then lay them on the foundation, pass the studs into the holes and tighten the nuts. The ends of the studs should not protrude above the surface of the beam, on the contrary, it is better when they are slightly drowned in a tree. Check the strapping level along the entire perimeter to avoid distortions. Now you need to lay the upper row of beams, nail them with nails, insert into the grooves of the floor slabs. For greater reliability, the internal joints should be strengthened with metal plates with screws.

8212"> Step 4. Summer kitchen - log house

This summer kitchen has an excellent appearance, it is environmentally friendly and well maintains heat inside the premises. However, it is extremely important to treat the material with flame retardant soak to prevent damage to the wood by insects.

It is worth remembering that the frame will shrink for several years, therefore it is not recommended to additionally wall the summer kitchen with siding.

To make the walls indistinctly flat, each log along the entire length is withered by a plane or a bulgarian. At the ends of the logs, grooves are cut for docking( the "paw" method).This method was not chosen by chance. Firstly, the logs will be used without rest, and secondly, even if the corner connection has a small gap, then this does not affect the functionality and convenience of the summer kitchen.

Compound

Connection

Scheme of cutting a log into a paw

Scheme of cutting the frame into the paw

Scheme of felling in the paw with a tooth

Scheme of cutting in the paw with a tooth

To build a crown, we stack two logs opposite each other. We put two more perpendicularly on them. This square is adjusted to a single plane so that it clearly lies flat on the lower strapping of the future summer kitchen. Further, marking, cutting and laying of the following logs is carried out, between which we lay a heater, for example, moss or felt.

Recommended sizes of angular log connections in the paw

Recommended dimensions of angular log connections in the paw

The openings for the doors and windows of the summer kitchen will be cut down in the future. The same double-glazed windows and an entrance door together with accessories will be installed after the completion of the process of installing the roof. We bring to your attention the photo report of the construction of the summer kitchen 7x3 m.

Summer kitchen 7x3.Project

Summer kitchen 7x3.Project

Video - Felling "paw»

First logs laid

Stacked logs first

The door opening is cut open.

Wieden carved doorway door window aperture

Window hole

Step 5. Mounting the roof

Top harness

cantrail

The roof of the summer kitchen

Roof

Roof

summer kitchen roof gable

The Ridge of the Roof

Rims

Rims

Crate Crate

Gables of the gables

sheathing gable roof

Roof scheme

Driving

Laying of hydro, steam insulation

Laying the hydro, steam insulation

From the boards with a section of 150x50 mm, knock down the roof trusses, strengthen them with spacers and mount to the upper strapping. The ends of the rafters should protrude 10-15 cm from the perimeter of the walls. The distance between the trusses is approximately 1.5 m. The fastening of the roof elements to the harness is carried out using metal plates and bolts. After installing the rafters, along the farms they fill the skate, and then trim the roof frame with planks. The lath is laid profiled, slate or other roofing material.

The roof is covered with metal

roof is covered Ondulin

Window

Window openings

Window Window openings

How to install a window into a frame

How to install a window in the frame

How wrong and properly installed windows

How improperly installed windows

How CORRECTLY the windows are installed

As properly installed window openings

Preparing openings

Preparation

Casing window design

window design with obsadoy

Window installation scheme

scheme setting

The door is installed

windows installed door

Summer kitchen floor. Warming and sheathing with a finishing board

floor summer kitchen. Thermal insulation and plating of the finishing floor board

Scheme of floor insulation with mineral wool

Scheme of floor insulation with mineral wool

Summer kitchen 7x3 m Project
Kitchen height Height from floor to ceiling: 2.15 m.( + -5 cm).Ridge height: 1.5 m.( + -5 cm.)
Foundation Supporting-column blocks( one nightstand measuring 400x400x4000 mm consists of four cement blocks measuring 200x200x400, sandwich-cement mixed together).
Bounding of the base Nestroganic bar section 100х150мм.The string is placed in a row on the edge.
Floor ladders Nesting board 40х150 mm.with a laying pitch of 700 mm.
Log house Profiled bar section 90x140 mm, natural humidity
Assembling log house The log is assembled on metal nagelya( nails 200 mm).
Assembling the corners of the log house Assembling the angle into the "warm corner"
Intermediate insulation Between the wreaths is laid the flax linen
Partitions Bar partition 90х140 of natural humidity.
Floor Floor double: rough floor: edging board 20 mm;Finish floor: 36 mm high sheet pile.(chamber drying).
Insulated with mineral wool "KNAUF" 50 mm., "ONDUTIS" insulation is laid in 2 layers.
Ceiling beams Unstretched beams 40x100 mm.with a laying pitch of 700 mm.
Ceiling The ceiling is hemmed with softwood lining( chamber drying).The ceiling is insulated with mineral wool "KNAUF" 50 mm., Insulation "ONDUTIS" is laid.
Rigid construction Bar 40x100 mm.with a laying pitch of 1000 mm.
Roof cover The lining is made of a 20 mm edged board.(across the board).
Terrace Support pillars are installed with compensating elevators( jacks) for shrinkage. Finishing of the terrace: railing - carved, balusters - chiseled. At the entrance are set the steps.
Roof According to the project kitchen - gable.
Fronts Are sewed by a lining of coniferous breeds( chamber drying).In the kitchen gables are installed ventilation grilles( prevent the formation of condensation).
Hexes and cornices( overhangs) Sewing with softwood lining( chamber drying).The width of the overhang: 350 - 450 mm( 4 lining).
Roofing material Ondulin, color to choose from: red, brown, green.
Windows Wooden with double glazing, installed according to the project. The size of the window blocks is 1x1,2 m. Casing bars are installed in the openings.
Doors Paneled. Casing brusks are installed in the openings.
Decorating the room All corners and joints in the kitchen are sealed with a baseboard;window, doorways are stitched.
Terrace Support pillars are installed with compensating elevators( jacks) for shrinkage. Finishing of the terrace: railing - carved, balusters - chiseled. At the entrance are set the steps.

Step 6. Arrangement of the kitchen

When the main processes have been completed, the interior design of the kitchen should be closely taken up. The walls can be plastered with plastic or plasterboard, because the plywood trimmed skeleton does not look very aesthetic. Then install the oven, wash, connect electricity and water, arrange kitchen furniture. On this, the construction of a closed kitchen can be considered complete.

Video - Summer Kitchen by Yourself

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