How to build a sauna with your own hands

Projectauny are available, found in the public domain or do you make your own.

First of all, determine how many people will attend a sauna at the same time. The calculation is extremely simple: one person should have a minimum of 5 m2 of the total area of ​​the sauna. That is, if you are building a building for 6 visitors, its total area should be at least 30 m2.

Determine the optimum output of the sauna oven for the selected area.

Plan the arrangement of the sauna shelves - they should be located at a distance of at least 100 cm from the stove. Optimum distance between the levels of installation of the shelves is 450-500 mm.

Consider the organization of water supply and drainage, lighting and arrangement of additional premises( shower room, rest rooms, etc.).

Make sketches and drawings in accordance with the plan.

Construction of frame sauna

Start building a sauna. Start by arranging the foundation.

Foundation

The optimal variant of the base for the frame sauna is the strip foundation, buried at 80-100 cm. The suitable depth of the tape is determined individually, taking into account the characteristics of the soil in the construction site.

The recommended width of the concrete strip is 250-300 mm. The above-ground part of the base must have a height of at least 200 mm.

Perform the layout of the site in accordance with the recommended parameters and layout of the building. For marking, use the pins and cord.

Dig the trenches in the markup. Fill the bottom of the depressions with a sand-gravel mixture, lay the reinforcing mesh, install the formwork and pour in the concrete.

Allow concrete to dry completely. Strength is required for about 4-5 weeks. The dried concrete is covered with a double layer of roofing material.

In the base of the base, install small ventilation openings. This can be done even before the concrete is poured, having laid the required cross-section in the required places. Do holes in the frozen concrete is not recommended, tk.this can lead to a reduction in the strength of the structure.

Frame made of timber

Lay out the first round of the bar. Use material with a cross-section of 15x15 cm or 20x20 cm.

It is better that the bottom rail is not in contact with the foundation. To exclude such contact, place strong wooden rails on the foundation approximately every 300 mm. There will be enough rails 15 mm thick. Formed voids are filled with heat-insulating material, and even better - with mounting foam.

Bars of the bottom strapping fasten in a convenient way. The main thing is that the connection is as reliable as possible. From the use of metal fasteners it is better to abstain. Optimal connection with the use of grooves.

Lay out the required number of rows of timber according to the planned height of the structure. Rows connect using wooden nagels. Between the rows, lay the jute seal.

Cover the erected frame with solid boards and roofing paper. Leave the sauna in this condition for six months. During this time, the wood will shrink, and you can continue to equip the sauna.

After the completion of the shrinkage processes, cut through the walls the openings for double-glazed windows and doors and mount the elements mentioned.

If the construction is carried out with the use of a quality timber that has undergone a full chamber drying, it is not necessary to make such a long break.

Single-pitched roof

Start the construction of the roof structure. For a private sauna, a single-pitched roof is a good option - it's a simple and budget option.

If the distance between the opposite walls of the building does not exceed 450 cm, the installation of the rafters can be carried out without the use of additional supports. In the case if the distance exceeds the mentioned value, the installation of the Mauerlatt is mandatory.

Mauerlatt is a support beam, fixed along the top edge of the building walls. In wooden buildings, the function of the Mauerlat can take on the last laid-out crown of the beam.

For the installation of rafters in the Mauerlate grooves of the appropriate size are created. Traditionally, the rafters are fixed with a meter pitch.

Rafter legs should extend approximately 50 cm outwards. Due to this, the possibility of moisture from the roof on the walls of the building will be excluded.

The roof slope must have a certain slope( determined individually, according to the features of the selected finish material).To create a slope, the front wall of the building must be raised to the appropriate height.

The roof is then installed as standard: the crate is installed, the insulation layers( moisture protection, insulation, vapor barrier) are installed and the finishing material is fixed.

All wooden building elements must be treated with antiseptic. It is also recommended to perform fire retardant treatment. Impregnation can be used both before the installation of the elements, and after their arrangement - decide for yourself.

Interior installation of sauna

Begin the interior of the building. Start with walls and ceiling.

Walls and ceilings

For the ceiling and sauna walls, wood panels are best suited, for example, lining from cedar or spruce.

Wood, if possible, should not have tar and knots.

Before fixing the surface finish necessarily insulated. To do this, first the frame is fixed, the vapor barrier is fixed to the bars of the frame, mineral wool is laid in the base cells, then the insulation is covered with a layer of vapor-insulating material and the lining is immediately packed.

Floor

For floor finishing, use a material that is able to withstand the temperature and humidity conditions typical for a sauna. For example, ceramic tiles and other similar materials are well suited.

The tiles are mounted in accordance with the standard scheme: the base is pre-leveled and tiles are fixed on it using a binder specially designed for this job.

Wooden boards are also perfect for the finish of the sauna floor. They are attached to pre-mounted lags. The optimal thickness of the boards is 5 cm. It is recommended to leave small gaps between the elements of the finish to remove moisture. Instead of slots, you can equip one hatch and close it with a perforated grate.

A system is usually constructed in accordance with which moisture is diverted into a tray placed under the floor, and from there it leaves the structure and is discharged into a pit, container or other suitable place.

Furnace

After the flooring, the furnace is installed. First, the foundation is arranged. The type and dimensions of the foundation are selected individually in accordance with the characteristics of the furnace unit.

For a sauna, a metal stove with a 60-80 liter capacity for water is perfect.

The heater is best filled with river cobblestones. This available material keeps the temperature well and does not crack at high temperature.

Ventilation

Ensure good ventilation in all areas of the sauna.

To do this, it is enough to make the exhaust hole closer to the ceiling and create an air channel near the floor.

Lighting

Fixtures in the sauna are equipped with special protective frames. To ensure maximum protection of the luminaire against moisture, it is closed with a sealed hood.

When choosing luminaires and any electrical appliances, pay attention to their resistance class. It is important that the parameters of the products allow them to normally transfer environmental conditions.

The distance between the ceiling and the luminaire must be at least 300 mm. Also, lighting fixtures can be mounted under the shelves. Directly above the oven fixtures are not installed.

Shelves

Prepare the support frame from the wooden beam. Make 5 racks. For each level of shelves.

For fastening the frame to the surfaces of the room, use the appropriate fasteners for your convenience. From the use of metal fasteners, if possible, abstain.

Traditionally, the shelves are placed against the wall opposite the stove.

Fasten the beams using transverse pieces of the same wooden bar. For fastening the beams to the racks, use self-tapping screws.

Attach another vertical support bar to the long crossbar. He will assume the functions of support for the lower shelf.

Connect the upper ends of all five racks using the board. For fastening elements, use self-tapping screws.

Sheathed shelves with boards. Fasten the cladding elements with a 20 mm gap. For the fastening of boards it is best to use wooden pins. If metal fasteners are used, heat them into the wood.

Blank the space between the top and bottom shelf with boards. From the bottom, it is better to leave the space open - this will ensure more efficient drying of moisture, improve ventilation and facilitate cleaning.

In addition to the shelves, buy or make footrests and head restraints yourself.

Install the water supply in accordance with the preliminary prepared project documentation. Finishing and arrangement of additional rooms of the sauna is at your discretion.

The sauna is ready for this. You can complement it with additional accessories of your choice and enjoy the warmth of your own built and equipped sauna.

Successful work!

Video - How to build a sauna by yourself