Greenhouse with own hands

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Many owners of private houses dream of having a greenhouse on their plots. This agrotechnical facility will help the owners to provide their family with greens and some types of vegetables already in late spring or early summer. Well, some designs of greenhouses, involving heating and lighting systems, are used to grow the crop year-round.

Greenhouse with own hands

Greenhouse with own hands

The greenhouse with its own hands can be built of wood and bricks in combination with metal elements, have a frame structure, for example, made of lightweight metal-plastic pipes.

When implementing the idea in the first place is determined by the place where the greenhouse will be installed. The size of the future structure directly depends on its area.

Next, you need to decide when this facility will be used - only in the spring or throughout the year. If you choose the "winter" option, you need to know that the construction will cost much more, since it will require more materials, and also lighting, heating, water supply and ventilation will be necessary.

Next, you need to choose the material of construction and the type of construction of the greenhouse. To focus on one of them, we will consider a few of the most frequently used options.

Types of greenhouses

Contents of the article

  • 1 Greenhouse varieties
    • 1.1 Greenhouse material
    • 1.2 Greenhouse constructions
      • 1.2.1 Video: homemade greenhouse on a wooden frame with film coating
    • 1.3 Greenhouse roof form
  • 2 Greenhouse proper location
  • 3 Greenhouse with own hands
    • 3.1 Drawing up a greenhouse project
    • 3.2 Location marking
    • 3.3 Foundation pit and foundation
      • 3.3.1 Strip foundation for kapigreenhouse
      • 3.3.2 Basis for a thermos hothouse
      • 3.3.3 Wooden foundation
    • 3.4 Construction of a greenhouse thermos
  • 4 Creating in the greenhouse optimum conditions for plants
    • 4.1 Thermal insulation of a greenhouse
    • 4.2 Heating system for a greenhouse
      • 4.2.1 Warm "water floor"
      • 4.2.2 Heating using a cast iron boiler or oven
      • 4.2.3 Convector heating of a greenhouse
      • 4.2.4 Infrared heating of a greenhouse
    • 4.3 What is the heating power required?
      • 4.3.1 Calculator for calculating the required power for heating the greenhouse
    • 4.4 Greenhouse lighting

The greenhouse construction is not very difficult in principle, so any owner of the plot can build it independently. To do this, you only need to prepare the material and tools. Greenhouses can be divided into types, starting from different criteria - this is the material of manufacture, the form of the structure, stationary or temporary it will be.

Material for covering the greenhouse

Several different types of materials are used to cover greenhouses. They should be transparent, can have plant-friendly shades. For example, polycarbonate, which has become particularly popular recently, is sometimes chosen not only colorless transparent, but also yellowish or green in color.

Polycarbonate coating of greenish shade

Polycarbonate coating of greenish shade

Miniature 119-290x290 kantrymini 19510_1426255064
Fastening and weight Has a small weight, and in certain designs can be used without additional frame elements, and also without a foundation. Glass has the largest weight in comparison with other coating materials, and when choosing it, it will be necessary to think over a reliable frame installed on the foundation. Polyethylene has a very small mass, but requires special fastening.
If the material is not reinforced, then it is fixed to the frame through special slats and additionally fixed with thin stretched ropes.
Longevity Polycarbonate can be used as a coating for a greenhouse for 18 ÷ 25 years, depending on its quality.
This material is flexible and has sufficient rigidity to be an element of a self-supporting structure.
Fastened to the frame, it does not deform and does not give distortions.
Glass can last a long time, as it is not affected by ultraviolet rays and moisture.
On the other hand, glass is a fragile and inflexible material, so it does not tolerate mechanical influences, large loads and deformation of the frame structure.
Polyethylene has the shortest lifetime compared to other coating materials, as it is susceptible to ultraviolet light, which is gradually destroyed.
In addition, it can not be called stable to temperature extremes.
Noise Isolation Cellular polycarbonate well muffles the noise of wind and rain, thanks to its structure. If the installation of the material is performed poorly, then during a strong wind, gusts of air can penetrate inside, and the glass can make a ringing. The film will not protect the greenhouse from noise, and if the wind is very strong, the material will rustle heavily in the wind.
Appearance Polycarbonate gives the structure aesthetic appearance and is able to make an ordinary greenhouse a real decoration of the territory. Correctly installed glass will give the greenhouse a neat appearance. The film looks neat and remains transparent only the first season of its use, and even then - not always.
Then, under the influence of the sun, temperature changes and wind, it becomes cloudy and loses its aesthetic appearance and light transmitting ability.
Safety Polycarbonate has a high strength, exceeding the same value of glass, approximately 200 times, and also it is about 15 times lighter.
When falling, the material does not break and can not be injured by splinters located inside or near the greenhouse of people.
Poorly installed glass - extremely dangerous for people working inside.
In addition, if the shards fall into the soil of the greenhouse, then you can seriously injure the subsequent processing of the land.
Therefore, if the installation of glass is planned, then its installation is recommended to be entrusted to professional masters.
It is absolutely safe for people, and for greenhouse soil.
Care This material is easy to care for - it is enough to wash it with water, setting a strong head in the hose.
However, it should be noted that the dust on the polycarbonate surface is almost invisible, so the greenhouse does not have to be washed often enough.
There are traces of drops from the rain on the glass, and dust is well retained.
To get rid of dirt on the surface, you need to put a lot of physical effort.
It is especially uncomfortable and dangerous to carry out cleaning activities on a greenhouse roof.
The polyethylene film is not washed, because after wet cleaning, stains remain on it, and it becomes turbid, which makes it difficult to penetrate the interior of the light.
The only output with a heavy soiling is complete replacement of the film.
Created microclimate Polycarbonate can reliably insulate the greenhouse and protect plants from wind.
Vapors that settle on internal surfaces flow down into the soil.
In addition, the material not only perfectly transmits light, but also makes it softer and more diffuse.
The heat emitted by the soil and plants is safely stored indoors, which creates a greenhouse effect.
Glass is not capable of creating a high thermal insulation, unless it is a metal-plastic construction with double-glazed windows.
The material perfectly passes light, but does not scatter it, and sometimes even focuses on a particular bed, which is extremely harmful to plant leaves.
A dense new polyethylene film can create a high thermal insulation, but over a season, under the influence of temperatures, the sun and wind, it becomes thinner and loses its original qualities.
Therefore it is recommended that the film cover be changed every year.
Material evaluation parameters Cellular polycarbonate Glass Film

Often glass is used to cover the walls and roof of the greenhouse. It is in its structural structure and transparency perfectly suited for this room, but for the installation of glazing it is necessary to create an especially reliable solid frame structure, since this material has considerable weight. Capital winter greenhouses are sometimes erected from metal-plastic frames and double-glazed windows, but such a structure will be extremely expensive.

Traditionally, for the creation of transparent walls and a roof, glass is widely used

Traditionally, glass

is widely used to create transparent walls and a roof. Another option that is often used to cover greenhouses is polyethylene film. It can be used for pulling on a frame, erected from any material, since it has a very small mass. Recently, a special reinforced film has appeared on sale, which is more durable, and it is easier to fix it on the crate of the frame.

Greenhouse film with reinforcement

Greenhouse film with reinforcement

To determine the choice of material, you need to carefully study its performance characteristics, which are presented in this table:

Having weighed all the "pros" and "minuses" of materials, and taking into account the design of the conceived structure, you can make a choicetype coating.

Greenhouse constructions

Greenhouses have different designs - it can be a spacious room or just a large box, covered with a glazed frame. Also used are structures that are halfway up their heights to the ground. To stop your choice on one of the varieties will be possible only after the owner has figured out the features of each.

  • The simplest design of a greenhouse, which can be built from improvised materials, consists of a conventional box, the size of, for example, 2000 × 1500 mm, assembled from planks and installed in a favorable area of ​​the house territory. For such a greenhouse as a roof, old glazed frames are often used.
One of their simplest designs using wooden frames

One of their simplest designs using wooden frames

Such greenhouses are usually used for growing seedlings or greens from early spring to late autumn.

  • Another option is simple and affordable in the construction of a greenhouse is a simple frame structure made of metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes, reinforcement, and sometimes even a thick steel wire, covered with polyethylene film.
Lightweight tubular frame covered with polyethylene film

Lightweight tubular frame covered with plastic film

If plastic pipes are chosen for the greenhouse, even women's hands can make a frame, as this material bends easily enough and holds the mold well.

A similar version of the greenhouse can be used throughout the spring-summer season, from spring to late autumn. Convenience of the design is that planting seeds under the film, for example, tomatoes, after germination and strengthening, seedlings can not be transplanted. It is simply thinned out, and when the temperature is stable and comfortable for plants on the street, the film is removed from the structure, opening the free flow of air and sunlight. In very hot weather, a special grid can be quickly created on the framed frame, creating a half-shadow, but allowing light in the necessary to penetrate to the plants.

  • More complex construction, which is assembled from a wooden beam and covered with a film, can also be used throughout the spring-summer season. The size of such a greenhouse can be different - they vary from the amount of seedlings planned to be planted, and taking into account the convenience of the gardener.
Also a fairly simple design, with pivotally mounted, opened as necessary skates

Also quite simple design, with hinged, opened as required skates

In this design, it is mandatory to provide a hinged roof lift for access to plants of sunlight and air. This is also a seasonal variant of the structure, and it is desirable to use it only for growing seedlings, since in stable summer temperatures, vegetables and greens are recommended to grow still in the open ground.

Video: a self-made greenhouse on a wooden frame with a film coating
  • If you want to grow a small amount of greenery or seedlings, you can make a greenhouse from a metal barrel, in which the slots are made in the form of windows. As a roof in this design is used polyethylene transparent film - it can be removed at any time, opening access to air, and if necessary to close, so that the coolness of the off-season does not cause damage to plants.
The simplest compact greenhouse can be made from an unnecessary metal barrel

The simplest compact greenhouse can be made from an unnecessary metal barrel

  • A more complex greenhouse design in which it is already possible to install moderate heating and start using it already in the earliest spring. It consists of a wooden or metal-plastic frame. This is already a full-fledged building, and in it not only plants, but also the gardener will be protected from wind and low temperatures. Such a greenhouse can be covered with a very dense polyethylene film or honeycomb polycarbonate. Creating a construction of pipes, it must be remembered that it will be quite light, and a strong wind can move it from its place, damaging the shoots, so to fix it to the place it is necessary to drive into the ground metal corners or reinforcement.
An interesting solution - the frame of the greenhouse is welded from very inexpensive polypropylene pipes and components to them.

An interesting solution - the frame of the greenhouse is welded from very inexpensive polypropylene pipes and components to them.

  • The greenhouse structure, equipped with heating and watering, can be used throughout the year. To make such a hotbed work effectively, it is usually made of metal-plastic or aluminum structures and double-glazed windows, which are installed on the foundation.
This greenhouse is already a real capital structure

This greenhouse is already a real capital structure of

. To simplify the heating and delivery of water to the premises of the greenhouse, such structures are often attached to the southern wall of the house. In this case, the structure will serve as a kind of winter garden, which at any time of the year will delight owners not only with fresh vegetables and greens, but also with the color of ornamental plants.

Иногда теплицы пристраивают к южной стороне дома, и они становятся настоящими "зимними садами"

Sometimes greenhouses are attached to the south side of the house, and they become real "winter gardens"

  • Another version of the winter greenhouse, the design of which helps to save on heating - this is a room that spends half of its height in the ground. This structure, due to its high energy-saving qualities, is often called "greenhouse-thermos".To achieve the desired effect, a pit is digging for this greenhouse, going deep into the earth at 1600 ÷ 2000 mm. In addition, 500 to 700 mm high walls are erected above the ground surface, and then the whole structure is covered with a frame made of a bar or a metal corner.
Recessed greenhouse thermos

Deepened greenhouse thermos

The construction work is rather laborious and time-consuming, but in the process of its operation it will be possible to save enough on its heating system. One of the important moments in the construction of the thermos hothouse is the arrangement of not only the heating system, but also efficient ventilation.

Shape of the greenhouse roof

The next criterion by which greenhouses are divided is the shape of the roof. This largely depends on insolation, that is, high-quality lighting of the room, and hence, the creation of optimal conditions for growing plants.

  • Gable roof

Greenhouses with a gable roof can often be found in suburban areas, since it is this form that helps to efficiently illuminate the room from the top. Given the correct location of the greenhouse, the sun will be a whole day from sunrise to sunset "work", promoting the growth of plants.

"Классический" вариант - двускатная крыша

"Classic" version - gable roof

Therefore, this design is often used to create winter versions of greenhouses, because at this time of year, plants are experiencing a deficit of sunlight.

  • Arched construction

Arched constructions are made of metal-plastic pipes or metal elements. The former are usually covered with a polyethylene film, and the second variant is usually coated with polycarbonate. Metal structures can be purchased ready-made, and they will only be collected on the site. Well, the frame made of metal-plastic pipes is easy enough to manufacture by yourself.

Special properties of polycarbonate allow the creation of arch structures

Special properties of polycarbonate allow the creation of arch structures

The convenience of such a greenhouse is not only in its maximum illumination, but also because the snow mass and water do not accumulate on the arc-shaped roof, which means that the coating will not be deformed due to the largeload. Again, it will not be necessary to climb to a height that will remove snow from its surface.

  • Single-pitched roof

Single-deck construction is most often installed on a thermos hothouse or a structure adjacent to one of the walls of the house or a high fence.

One slope made in an arcuate configuration

One slope made in arcuate configuration

Single-edged can be arched or straight structures, and depending on their shape, the coating material is selected. For example, straight roofs can be covered with any of the above-described transparent materials, and polycarbonate panels are usually used for semi-arched roofs.

The level of slope of a saddle roof should ensure free descent of atmospheric precipitation

The level of slope of a saddle roof should ensure free precipitation of precipitation

If a single-decked greenhouse with a flat roof is under construction, it is very important to choose the right angle of slope of its plane, otherwise snow will remain on the surface, giving the construction a high load.

The correct location of the greenhouse

To keep the sun shining throughout the whole day, it is necessary to find the right place for it, as the yield of plants depends directly on the amount of sunlight they receive. Therefore, this structure is usually installed in an open space. If a greenhouse with a saddle roof is installed, it should be turned with the transparent side to the south.

The correct location of the greenhouse relative to the trajectory of the diurnal movement of the sun

The correct location of the greenhouse relative to the trajectory of the daily movement of the sun

This takes into account the course of the sun, which passes its "day trip" from east to west with a maximum point above the horizon in the south.

In addition, you need to install a greenhouse in such a way that it is not in the shade of the trees.

The figure below shows the three options that can occur when installing greenhouses. Here you can see what needs to be considered, in addition to the direction of the sun.

Different, correct and erroneous greenhouse locations

Various, correct and erroneous locations for the greenhouse

  • The first installation option is the most successful, since the greenhouse is open for illumination from all directions, and on the windward side( arrow "A") is protected by a lively green hedge that will close the structure from blowing in windy weather.
  • The second variant of the arrangement is unsuccessful first of all because the greenhouse stands in the way of the air flow, which will be formed in the presence of a strong wind in a kind of "wind tunnel" between the two houses or between the building and the hedge( arrow "B").Secondly, it is undesirable to establish the structure end-to-end to other plants growing on the plot, since it will be very uncomfortable to take care of them.
  • The third option can also be called unsuccessful, as the greenhouse is installed under a tree that will create a shadow, which will reduce the sunlight on plants in the greenhouse. In addition, in strong winds, a branch falling from a tree can seriously damage the coating or even the frame of a greenhouse.

Greenhouse with our own hands

Drawing up a greenhouse project

If the greenhouse is built on its own, then after choosing its model, and determining the optimal location for the installation, you can proceed to drawing up the building drawing. It is necessary in order to not miss any of the necessary parts when buying a material and immediately determine the required dimensions.

The most important task is to properly design the design of your greenhouse

The most important task is to properly design the design of your greenhouse

Drawing will help not only with the purchase of material, but also during the manufacture of blanks, and their assembly in a general design. The project is best done with linking the greenhouse to the place on the site where it is planned to install it, then it will be possible to evaluate all the factors that could negatively affect its operation and provide for possible their elimination.

It is not necessary to do the workflow strictly with observance of all drafting rules, it is enough to draw a greenhouse by hand, to calculate its dimensions and to put them on the drawing.

Marking on the terrain

The marking of the plot is mandatory for the greenhouse's capital structure, since under it it will be necessary to erect a foundation. Especially this process will need to be carried out if a thermos hothouse is chosen for the installation. Marking is carried out with pegs and rope. First, the point from which marking will be conducted is determined, a peg is driven into it.

Layout of the plot under the greenhouse

Layout of the site for a greenhouse

Next, using a building corner or a geodetic tool, determine the direction of the two sides of the greenhouse, which must form a right angle. With respect to the angle made, the remaining points of the greenhouse location are determined.

Foundation pit and foundation erection

The type of excavation will depend on which greenhouse is chosen for installation.

Tape foundation for the capital greenhouse

When choosing a capital greenhouse, it is most often installed with a strip foundation.

Один из распространенных вариантов для "серьезной" теплицы - ленточный фундамент

One of the most common options for a "serious" greenhouse is the strip foundation

  • . Under it, a pit trench is digging, which has a depth and width of 300 mm.
  • Since the walls of the greenhouse are not as heavy as those of residential buildings, the depth of the foundation is 300 mm is enough to withstand relatively small loads.
  • Above the ground, the base can be raised to a height of 200 to 500 mm, depending on whether the foundation will perform the function of the walls or they will be laid out of bricks.
  • A sand cushion of thickness 50 ÷ 70 mm is laid and tamped into the finished trench, the gravel is covered with a layer of the same thickness, the gravel is distributed.
  • Along the trench, formwork is fixed from the boards and timber, into which the roofing material is laid, which will become an excellent waterproofing for the foundation.
  • The next step is to fill the formwork with concrete, distribute it, and then pierce it with a bayonet shovel and gently tap on the formwork to remove air from the solution.
  • If the frame is made of a metal corner or it will be needed to fix wooden blocks, sometimes the support posts or corner pieces can be directly embedded in the foundation.
Basis for a thermos hothouse

For a greenhouse thermos, it is necessary to dig a deep enough pit, and if it is planned to arrange an agrotechnical structure of a large area, you will have to use specialized equipment, since such a manual operation will take quite a long time.

The thermos hothouse will require very large-scale earthworks

The greenhouse -thermos will require very large-scale excavation

  • After marking the platform, it is recommended to remove the top layer of fertile soil from it. After removal, the soil is piled up, because it is perfect for laying greenhouses in a garden.
  • When digging a pit, among the layers you can stumble upon clay, which also should not be mixed with the rest of the soil, as it can be useful for waterproofing walls or making adobe blocks for warming the greenhouse.
  • The pit is deepened so that the horticulturist working in the greenhouse felt free, and there was enough free space above it. In order to keep the necessary temperature in the greenhouse, and the ground did not freeze, it is recommended to deepen the foundation pit by approximately 2000 mm.

If the pit is not deep enough, you will have to raise the side walls, as it will be ideal when the total height of the excavation corresponds to the growth of the gardener.

The depth should be such that even at the points of the lowest position of the roof slopes, the gardener would not be constrained in movements

The depth should be such that even at the points of the lowest position of the roof slopes the gardener would not be constrained in the movements of the

  • The width of the greenhouse is usually between two and five meters. If the room is made wider, it will quickly become damp, and lighting and heating will require a large amount of electricity. In addition, the design of the transparent dome will be too complicated.
  • When digging a pit, on one side of it a ramp is built, where together with the erection of the walls a staircase in several steps and an entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed.
  • To begin work on the improvement of the walls, under them make a foundation. To do this, a trench is digging around the perimeter of the trench. After that, the formwork is arranged in it and in the same way as in the case already considered, a strip foundation is poured.
  • After the foundation is ready, you can proceed to the bricking of walls or foam blocks. When masonry is made in the opposite wall from the entrance door, one or two vent pipes are immediately installed, at a height of 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor.
Laying of buried walls. Two ventilation tubes are clearly visible

Laying in recessed walls. Two vented ventilation pipes of

are clearly visible. The ventilation pipe is led out and raised above the ground by 1000 ÷ 1500 mm.

  • Separately it is necessary to tell about a laying, as in this case, it is made in a special way.

- To save on the insulation, instead of bricks or foam blocks that are expensive, you can use the clay extracted from the excavation, which is mixed with chopped straw and molded from this mixture adobe bricks.

- If there is no desire to waste time, and there is an opportunity to purchase foam blocks, which are called permanent moldings, then you can immediately get "bricks with insulation".Blocks are hollow, and they are filled as they are installed one upon another with a concrete solution. Choosing the latter option, it will be necessary to separate the foam wall from the soil surface of the excavation by ruberoid or polyethylene film.

After the solution has solidified in the blocks, a film or roofing material is engaged on it, and the gap between the waterproofing material and the ground wall of the excavation is filled with clay or a mixture of clay and soil, and periodically filled up by filling and filling.

- If a brick is chosen for the finishing of walls, then it is insulated from the outside with the help of a foam plastic, which is mounted between a brick and a soil wall. The thermal insulation material must also be protected with a waterproofing film or roofing material. The resulting gap, just like in the first case, is filled with soil.

  • If the walls rise above the ground by 400 ÷ 600 mm, they also need to be insulated and waterproofed. If desired, the wall protruding above the ground can be decorated with a decorative coating - it can be clinker tiles or plastic lining for street use.
  • If the walls are low, then after the waterproofing they can be sprinkled with a layer of expanded clay, which is covered from above with a corrugated sheet, fastened to the top of the wall. Profiled sheeting will ensure the outflow of water, which will drain off the greenhouse, and keep the walls dry.
Wooden foundation

Another material for the foundation can be wood, or more precisely, a wooden beam, having a size in the section of 100 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm. Such a foundation is suitable for a greenhouse, which is used seasonally - from spring to autumn.

For light seasonal greenhouses, often a wooden base

For light seasonal greenhouses, there is often enough wooden foundation

To ensure that such a foundation has served a long time, the wood needs to be treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds and installed on a sandy, well-packed pillow. Another option is to lift it above the ground with concrete slabs.

Wooden foundation can be raised slightly above the ground level.

The wooden foundation can be raised slightly above the ground level.

Construction of greenhouse-thermos

All greenhouses are installed in different ways, depending on the type of construction and period of use of the structure, since the "winter" variants require a more thorough approach and additional functions. Probably, it is worth considering this, the most difficult option.

Approximate scheme of the upper wooden structure of the recessed greenhouse-thermos.

Approximate scheme of the upper wooden structure of the recessed greenhouse-thermos.

  • After the walls are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the frame under the cover of the greenhouse.
  • Frame is assembled from a metal profile or wooden beam.
For frame construction, you can use a metal profile or a wooden beam

For the frame structure, you can use a metal profile or a wooden beam

  • The first step on the walls of the greenhouse is fastening the strap from a 100 × 150 mm bar. Fixation is carried out by anchoring fasteners or using embedded embedding elements.
  • The rafter system must be assembled from a bar of the same cross-section as the harness. For the installation of rafter legs on the harness, marking is carried out, since the rafters should be distributed at the same distance from each other.
  • The rafters are fastened to the strapping with metal corners, and in the upper part they are joined together by means of metal plates or using a ridge board.
  • Wooden rails of the crate are fastened to the rafters, but with a sufficiently large step. They should be no more than two or three on each ramp, so that they do not block the sunlight.
  • The laths are covered with polycarbonate sheets, which are fixed to it with special fasteners with bushings and rubber gaskets to prevent the possibility of leakage.
The skate planes are covered with polycarbonate sheets

The skate planes are covered with polycarbonate sheets

  • After completing the fastening of the coating material to the ramps, it is similarly mounted on the gable roof parts.
  • After this, the door frame and the door are installed. It is desirable that the door leaf is also equipped with a transparent insert.

Creating the optimal conditions for plants in a greenhouse

Thermal insulation of a greenhouse

Exemplary scheme of thermal insulation of the greenhouse-thermos

Exemplary thermal insulation scheme for a greenhouse-thermos

In a greenhouse with a gable roof to the south, one of its rays must necessarily exit. The second side inside the greenhouse is recommended to be finished with heat-insulating material with a foil surface. Such a system will help not only to keep the heat, but even to increase the illumination inside the structure, since the sun, falling on the insulation foil, will be reflected in the room.

Foil insulation on the northern roof slope and on all walls of the greenhouse

Foil insulation on the northern roof slope and on all walls of the

greenhouse. The heater is fixed to the rafters with self-tapping screws, then it is bent to the wall and glued to its surface with liquid nails. In the same way all the walls of the greenhouse are insulated, only the transparent southern slope is left unheated, and you can leave the western end transparent side of the structure.

It should be noted that foamed polyethylene foam is an excellent vapor barrier membrane and can not only enhance the lighting of the greenhouse, but also keep water vapor and carbon dioxide inside it, which are the main nutrient medium for photosynthesis, which determines the growth and development of plants.

To ensure that the heat does not leave the greenhouse, it is necessary to create a reliable tightness of the space of the greenhouse. For this, it is necessary to install doors or latches on the ventilation holes, where it is possible to expose the necessary gap as necessary or to completely cover them.

Heating system for the greenhouse

The heating of the greenhouse is done differently - it can be installed electric convectors, the system of which promotes the circulation of warm air, infrared heaters, long-burning stove with a water circuit, electric or water system of the "warm floor".Some land owners conduct heating directly from the house, from a common boiler room.

Warm "water floor"

The "warm floor" system is the best option for a sufficiently large room of the greenhouse, since during its operation the heat is stored longer in the room.

Схема отопления по принципу водяного "теплого пола"

Heating scheme according to the principle of water "underfloor heating"

To ensure that thermal energy does not escape into the ground, the bottom of the hotbed must be thermally insulated. The pipe system, through which hot water will pass, is usually laid directly under the beds, but some gardeners prefer to insulate the entire floor of the greenhouse completely. The beds are formed along the walls. Borders for them can serve as boards treated with hydrophobic and antiseptic composition, or walls made of bricks with a height of 400 ÷ 450 mm. In the space made for the beds, and all subsequent layers are laid.

Pipes placed on the bed bottom

Pipes placed on the bottom of beds

Preparation of the base and installation of the warm floor itself is done in this way:

  • The soil at the bottom of the beds is leveled, if necessary, this is done with sand piling.
  • After that, the whole bottom is covered with thermal insulation material, foil side up. Strips of material( foamfoil) must be fixed together with waterproof tape, thus creating a sealed coating.
  • The next step on the insulation material is sand laid with a layer of 50 ÷ 70 mm. It also needs to be evenly distributed over the surface and compacted.
An approximate scheme of the arrangement of layers for soil heating in beds

Approximate arrangement of layers for soil heating on beds

  • For reinforcement, which is necessary for the installation of metal-plastic pipes, reinforcing mesh made of wire with a diameter of 5 ÷ 7 mm, with cells of 30 × 30 or 40 × 40 mm, is placed on the sand.
  • On the top of the grid, the pipes of the "warm floor" contour or a special heating cable are fixed, if it is decided to install electric heating.
  • The contour is then topped up with another layer of sand, the thickness of which should be 50 mm above the pipes or cable.
  • Another layer of protective metal mesh is laid on the sand. It is necessary to create a distinction, so that when loosening the soil, the "warm floor" system will not be damaged.
  • 350 ÷ 400 mm of fertile soil is laid on the mesh. For it, if necessary, use the upper layer of the earth, taken from the site on which the excavation was excavated;

If a water heating option is used, the water for it can be heated in various ways - it can flow through a paved main from the house, or the system connects to its own source( furnace or boiler).

Heating using a cast iron boiler or

furnace Another way to heat a greenhouse can be a long-burning cast iron boiler with a water circuit that can create a comfortable temperature for plants for one full hour, for about 12 hours.

For heating, with certain precautions, solid-fuel stoves or boilers can be used

For heating with certain precautions, solid fuel stoves or boilers

can be used. If the greenhouse has a large area, two boilers are installed in opposite ends of the room, and steel pipes along the beds are laid from them at a height of 500-700 mm. It is very important to correctly calculate the slope of the pipes, since the water must circulate freely through them.

Sometimes radiators are installed in the system, which will create a large heating surface, which gives heat to the room more intensively.

The chimney from the stove is taken to the street and raised to a height of 1500 mm from the roof of the greenhouse.

In the place where the pipe passes through the roof of the greenhouse, it is isolated from combustible materials. In addition, outside the pipe around the slope is mounted waterproofing.

It should be noted that the installation of such a heating system is rather laborious and requires correct calculations.

Convector heating of greenhouses

Heating convectors are often used for heating greenhouses.

These devices are well suited for heating premises, as they, when heating the air, do not dry it and make it constantly circulate.

Effective heating is provided by compact, easy-to-install electric convectors on walls or in passageways

Efficient heating is provided by compact, easy-to-install electric convectors on the walls or in the aisles

Convectors are very easy to install - they are hung on wall brackets mounted in a wall and plugged into a wall outlet. Then the desired room heating temperature is set on the thermostat, at which point the device automatically switches off. Timers can also be used, which will change the temperature according to the given parameters, depending on the time of day.

A very wide range of convectors is available, so if you want, you can choose compact appliances that do not take up much space, completely cope with the heating task and will still give the room a modern aesthetic appearance.

Depending on the size of the greenhouse, the power of the instruments and their number are selected.

Infrared heating of a greenhouse

This type of heating can be called not only economical, but also useful for cultivating a healthy rich crop. Infrared emitters simulate solar energy and function in the same way, that is, they create and maintain the required thermal regime in the plant growing zone.

Infrared rays not only heat the room, but also have a beneficial effect on plants

Infrared rays not only heat the room, but also have a beneficial effect on

  • plants. Such heaters act directly on the plants and the surfaces surrounding them, accumulating heat and transferring it to the environment by means of infrared waves.
  • Infrared waves have the property of preventing the emergence of various bacteria and viruses that adversely affect plant growth.
  • Such instruments, without drying the air, create an optimal microclimate that has a beneficial effect on the development and yield of plants.
  • Infrared heaters have a long service life, they are very reliable and easy to operate.
Variants of the use of film infrared heaters

Options for using infrared heating heaters

You can enhance the effect of this type of heating by installing not only infrared lamps, but also laying infrared film under the soil of the beds, which will both heat up and disinfect the soil.

It is assembled in the following way:

- a layer of sand is piled onto the ground and compacted to 5 ÷ 7 mm;

- on top of it is laid foil insulation, foil up;

- the infrared film is laid on it and the infrared film is connected to the power supply, in accordance with the instruction for its installation;

- then it tightly packed tight polyethylene;

- another three-millimeter layer of sand is poured onto the polyethylene;

- the next layer is a protective metal mesh;

- the last one is a fertile layer of soil - its thickness should be 300 ÷ 400 mm.

What is the power required?

The calculation of the total heating power required relative to the greenhouse size is carried out according to the following formula:

Qset = × Kinf ×( t1 -t2 ) × wtp

Qum is the total power of infrared or convector heaters installed in an electrical heating system;

Sost - the glazing area of ​​the greenhouse;

Kinf - coefficient of infiltration;

( t1 - t2 ) - the difference between the external and the required internal temperature;

wtp - heat transfer coefficient of coating material( W / m² × ° C)

As can be seen from the presented formula, the calculation of power is affected by several factors that should be taken into account.

1. The total glazing area of ​​the greenhouse surfaces is calculated in relation to a specific design.

Snapshot How to correctly determine the area of ​​different shapes?

Those who forget the rules of geometry, it is recommended to follow the link, which directly leads to the publication of our portal, entirely devoted to calculations of the areas of premises .

2. The coefficient of infiltration depends on the difference in external and internal temperatures in the greenhouse. You can use the following table:

Air temperature inside the greenhouse Average outside temperature of the greenhouse
0 ° C - 10 ° C - 20 ° C - 30 ° C - 40 ° C
+ 18 ° C 1.08 1.13 1.18 1.24 1.30
+ 25 ° C 1.11 1.16 1.21 1.27 1.33

3. The temperature inside the greenhouse( in the formula is denoted t1 ), is usually set to:

  • For growing seedlings - + 25 ° C;
  • For normal development of vegetable beds - + 18 ° С.

If any exotic plants are grown, appropriate values ​​are taken.

4. The outside temperature( t2 ) is taken based on the results of the meteorological observations in a particular region - the minimum temperature during the coldest week during the planned season of use of the greenhouse.

5. Thermal conductivity( wtp ), that is, the amount of thermal energy that is transmitted to the outside by a 1 m 2 coverage with a temperature difference of 1 ° C depends on the type of material and its thickness. The table below shows the values ​​for the most commonly used materials for the coating of stationary greenhouses:

Material Thermal conductivity( W / m² × ° C)
Glass:
- thickness 4 mm; 5.82
- thickness 6 mm; 5.77
- thickness 8 mm; 5.71
Polycarbonate sheet monolithic:
- thickness 4 mm; 5.33
- thickness 6 mm; 5.09
- thickness 8 mm; 4.84
Polycarbonate sheet honeycomb:
- thickness 4 mm; 3.6
- thickness of 6 mm; 3.5
- thickness of 8 mm; 3.3
- thickness of 10 mm; 3.0
- thickness of 16 mm; 2.4

Having all the necessary data, it will be easy to calculate the required power of electric heating of the greenhouse. Even easier is to use the online calculator below.

Calculator for calculating the required power for heating the greenhouse
Enter or specify the requested values ​​and click the "Get result" button
Calculate separately and specify the total area of ​​the greenhouse glazing( m²) on the slider
Find in the table and specify the infiltration ratio
Indicate the required average temperature level in the greenhouse
+ 15 ° С + 18° С + 20 ° С + 25 ° С + 30 ° С
The frost level( - ° С) in the coldest period of operation of the greenhouse, for a particular region
Specify the glazing material of the greenhouse
- 4 mm glass - 6 mm glass - 8 mm glass- polycarbonate monolith4 mm - polycarbonate monolith 6 mm - polycarbonate monolith 8 mm - polycarbonate honeycomb 4 mm - polycarbonate honeycomb 6 mm - polycarbonate honeycomb 8 mm - polycarbonate honeycomb 10 mm - polycarbonate honeycomb 16 mm

To maintain the required temperature parameters, it is necessary to have several greenhousesthermometers, measuring the temperature of both air and soil. And the thermostatic blocks of electric heaters will allow to react sensitively to changes in conditions in automatic mode.

In addition, it is necessary to create the optimal moisture level for plants, which should be about 50-60% for the air, and 65-80% for the soil, taking into account the specific needs of the crops grown. To measure the humidity level, special instruments are used - hygrometers.

Lighting of the greenhouse

As the thermos is used all year round, it is impossible to do without artificial lighting.

A capital all-season greenhouse will require a well thought out lighting system

The capital all-season greenhouse will require a well-thought-out lighting system

Optical lighting devices for a room with a large enough area will be LED lights. They are not only able to create an almost daytime light intensity, but also help save a large amount, since they have minimal energy consumption. This type of instrument is durable, safe to operate and has a very reasonable cost, which quickly pays off.

Such luminaires are produced in different designs, but in order to achieve the maximum result of lighting, they are recommended to be fixed in the highest point of the ceiling of the greenhouse. In this case, each of the instruments will cover the maximum possible area with light.

Use for lighting and conventional lamps, which must be covered with shades. They are usually mounted on the joints of walls and roofs.

In order for plants to cover the required number of hours per day, that is, to simulate a daylight, they often use an automatic light control system with a built-in timer.

Электронный блок управления с таймером позволит искусственно поддерживать в теплице "день" и "ночь"

The electronic control unit with the timer will allow to artificially support the "day" and "night" in the greenhouse.

This device sets the time for switching on the lighting and turning it off. Thanks to this plants at any time of the year will receive the necessary amount of light for them, and the owner of the greenhouse will save a lot on electricity.

In order to build a winter version of the greenhouse, it will be necessary to make quite a lot of complex calculations that determine not only the amount of materials, but also the total costs to be produced. Yes, this is not an easy task, but for people who dream of cultivating various plants throughout the year, the winter greenhouse will become a favorite place, and its owner will always be able to brag of vegetables grown independently regardless of the current season.

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