Heat insulation of walls with polystyrene

Thermal insulation of walls with foam can help not only reduce heat losses, but also prepare walls for decorative finishing. It is quite possible to carry out the insulation of walls with polystyrene by hand, the main thing is to observe the technology.

Warming with foam is made from the outside of the walls. At the same time, plates of expanded polystyrene or expanded polystyrene are used - this is the same foam, manufactured using more modern technologies. The merits of this method include low thermal conductivity of the insulation layer, ease of implementation, material resistance to moisture, good sound insulation properties.

To fulfill the insulation layer, you will need:

1. Styrofoam boards( polystyrene foam) in an amount equal to the area of ​​the exterior walls minus the windows. The thickness of the plates is determined by heat engineering calculation, in any case, it should be such that the dew point is displaced into the layer of the outer insulation. If the thickness turned out to be nonstandard, the foam is fastened to the walls in two layers, the second layer being glued only after the adhesive has completely dried on the first layer.
2. Mineral slabs. They are put in fire-prevention purposes around all windows, doorways, and also between floors at a high altitude of the building. The thickness of the plates should correspond to the thickness of the foam. Plates must be chosen with a high density. The number of them depends on the number of windows.
3. Reinforcing mesh for external work.
4. Primer for walls. The consumption of the primer depends on the material of the walls - porous materials must be coated in two layers.
5. Adhesive for external work for fixing foam and reinforcing mesh. It is sold as a dry mix.
6. Perforated metal corner: to make the starting plate - equal to the width of the insulation layer, as well as a smaller width to strengthen the corners.
7. Tool: perforator with drill Ø10 mm, the length of the drill is equal to the thickness of the insulation plus 7-8 cm;building mixer;level;stationery knife.

Technology of insulation of walls with polystyrene

Before starting work, it is necessary to plan the time so as not to leave a layer of fixed non-plastered foam on the walls for more than 5-7 days. Sunlight very quickly destroys polystyrene foam - it turns yellow, the destructuring of surface layers begins, the insulation loses some of its thermal insulation properties.

1. Wall preparation. Walls are cleaned with a brush of dust and dirt, if necessary, repaired and leveled. Wall swings should not be more than 2 cm along the length of the foam sheet. If the walls are covered with paint or plaster - rip off all poorly fixed areas.
2. Prepare the primer. If the primer is sold as a concentrate - dilute it according to the instructions on the package.
3. Apply the primer to the walls with a brush or roller. Primers sometimes have to be applied in several layers. To check the quality of the dried primer, it is possible to do so: to hold a hand on the wall, while on the hand there should not be any significant traces of sand, construction dust or residues of coloring compounds.
4. Set the starting bar on the base of the building using the level. The starting strip is necessary to maintain the layer of insulation during the drying of the glue. If the height of the building is small, you can do without it, with the first sheets of foam from below to be fixed until the glue dries completely.

1. The bar is fastened around the perimeter of the building using dowels, at least three dowels per meter of length.
2. Dilute the glue according to the instructions on the package, for this, pour the dry mixture into the previously prepared clean cold water. The size of the container should be sufficient for mixing.
3. Stir glue with a construction mixer, leave to ripen for 5 minutes and mix again. After that, the glue is ready for use.
4. Apply the adhesive to the polystyrene plates with a spatula. Evenly distribute the adhesive on the slab is possible only in the case of flat walls.

1. For brick or block laying, which is characterized by unevenness, it is applied by a strip along the perimeter of the plate and several blobs in the center.
2. The slab is placed on the starting plate and pressed firmly against the wall, making sure that there are no distortions.
3. Check the leveling of the slab in all three directions. If necessary, level with light tapping on the plate, hand or hammer through a wooden bar.
4. Lay the plates in a horizontal row. The next row is staggered, forming a dressing, as when laying brick walls

1. When stowing the foam, if necessary, cut with a knife in size. It must be ensured that there are no large gaps remaining.
2. Around the window and doorways must lay a 20-centimeter layer of non-combustible insulation. As it can be used basalt mats or mineral plates, the density of the plates should be such that they can withstand the plaster and the finish coat without deformation. If the height of the building is large, every 2-3 floors also lay a layer of non-combustible insulation.
3. Mineral slabs are attached similarly to the foam on the adhesive, applying it over the entire surface.
4. After the sticker, if necessary, glue all the cracks between the heater and the window unit, as well as the joints of the heater and foam.

1. The adhesive dries within 1-2 days. After that it is necessary to fix the heater. To do this, use a perforator and a pair of dowel-nail. In one plate there must be at least 4-5 anchors. To reduce the number of holes, it is allowed to drill holes in the joints of plates, thereby pressing two or three adjacent plates.
2. The holes in the plates are drilled so that the dowel enters the wall for 5-6 cm, the length of the drill is calculated accordingly as the width of the insulation plus 7-8 cm.
3. Special plastic dowels-fungi with a wide bonnet are used for fixing the foam plastic. They do not form cold bridges, reliably fix the plate and do not protrude over its surface. They are hammered with a hammer, after which they finish the nail in them.
4. All corners reinforce the perforated corner, which is attached to the glue for the heater.

1. Foam can not be left in the sun for more than a few days, so after fixing the plates, they begin finishing work. Clearances between plates of a heater are necessary. To fix the reinforcing mesh, apply a layer of glue to the wall surface, the area of ​​the site is chosen so that it is time to put and align the reinforcing mesh before setting the glue. The reinforcing mesh must be taken for external work, since the mesh for internal work when exposed to cement-based glue is destroyed over time.
2. Apply the reinforcing mesh to the wall, with 5 cm at the edge of the mesh should remain to form an overlap. It is more convenient to fasten the mesh from top to bottom, slowly unwinding the roll.
3. The grid is tightly pressed to the wall, and the adhesive spread over its surface is smoothed with a wide spatula. If necessary, you can add more glue. The grid should not protrude above the surface of the glue, but its contours must be traced. The next section is treated in the same way, not forgetting about the necessary overlap of the mesh width of 5 cm.
4. After the glue dries, after 2-3 days, the surface of the wall is rubbed with sandpaper, if necessary leveling, and proceed to finish finishing.

Thermal insulation of walls with polystyrene foam when properly executed allows saving up to 40% of energy resources for heating the house. At the same time, the foam does not rot, is resistant to the action of the fungus, does not deform from the temperature changes, which allows the house to retain a decent appearance for decades.

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