Concreting posts for fence

The construction of a fence around its site and, possibly, of any other permanent or temporary fencing is the procedure without which any countryside construction can not do without. And it will be a big mistake to start this issue "on the drift ", say, against the background of the scale of the main events here everything is solved easily and simply.

The quality, durability, and decorativeness of the fence, especially denoting the outer boundary of its own possessions, are no less important than the corresponding characteristics of other buildings. And to concern the device of similar elements it is necessary with not less attention, than to all other. And one of the main problems in this block of questions is the right choice, placement and concreting the pillars for the fence.

Which poles and when is the best to use

A. First of all, will understand , what requirements must be met for the fence:

• Probablye, there is no reason to closely deal with the fence almost every year. Hence, the bars should be durable, designed for long-term operation with the minimum necessary level of care for them.
• The posts must be free, with the required safety factor, and withstand the weight of the spans and the dynamic loads. First of all, , of course, this applies to wind impact, especially in open areas of the terrain.

But even in the quietest places you need to take into account the margin of safety, so that the fence does not fall from snow drifts, from domestic animals( small to large) or even from , that to fly or a post leaned some "tired"citizen returning at night from the party.

• Posts from a good host should, at least , do not spoil the outer appearance of the fence at home. They need to fit well into the overall composition of the fence, gate, gate. Sometimes - even more, it is the pillars that set the tone for the whole ensemble of fencing of the territory of the site.

If the bars of their appearance can spoil the overall picture, means they need to be made invisible to the outside view.

B. Second aspect. The technology of installation of fence posts largely depends on the material of their manufacture. Well, this parameter is directly related to the type of fence itself. That is, "you need to dance from the stove" - to begin with what kind of fence we need on the site.

So, in modern construction practice, the following types of pillars for fence are used most often: wooden, asbestos-cement, concrete, metal, made of bricks or other building blocks. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages. For convenience, these data are summarized in the following table:

Column manufacturing material	Miniature	Advantages of	Disadvantages
Wooden posts		Very often - the most affordable.	Requires compulsory treatment with special
compounds. It is often possible to produce	independently. Even after processing, they do not differ in durability - rarely when they last for more than 10 years
Easily attached lateral logs and spans of fence
Asbestos cement poles		Low cost, availability	Friability - cancrack at accidental accented impact
Ease of mounting the poles themselves, practicality	If the water is trapped, water can collapseI'm in the cold, I need a mandatory seal from the top
There are difficulties with fastening to the posts of transverse logs
Concrete pillars		Versatility - suitable for all types of fences	Large mass that complicates both delivery and installation of pillars
With high quality performance - the highest durability	Such polescan not be called an economical solution for
. They can have interesting external design
Metal posts		Complete versatility with all types of fences	There are no significant drawbacks. The only thing that can be said about the current high cost of metal rolling
Any methods of mounting the	poles themselves can be used. Regular maintenance -
stains is required. It is possible to widely use welded joints, which opens a lot of options for the construction of fences and gates.
With proper metal working - high durability of supports
Brick pillars		"Champions" for decorativeness.	Probably the most expensive of all.
Requires mandatory foundation pouring.
High masonry skills required for their construction
Require specific external handling and care

And now consider the compatibility of the mentioned pillars with different types of fences.

• For a wooden fence( a normal fence), there are no restrictions - the mass is not large, the sail is also , and you can use absolutely any types of poles. The only question is whether to use this from the economic point of view and from 's position of visual compatibility.

True, wooden fences sometimes sometimes take very interesting, sometimes - pretentious forms that require special approaches.

• Akin to conventional wooden structures and parameters - fences made of metal fences. They - durable wooden, and can also be installed with any kind of posts.

Their small mass and the absence of any significant sail does not make special requirements to the racks.

• Fences made of metal corrugated board are one of the most popular in our time. By their total mass, such spans do not give a special load, but their solid surface requires thinking about the sail structure.

Here, the requirements will be higher - both in terms of the pitch of the supports, and in terms of the depth of the . But, on the large account, any poles can be used( true , the use of wood can hardly be considered seriously ).

• Currently, light is becoming popular and even seemingly weightless fences made of polycarbonate panels.

The requirements for the post-supports can be kept the same as with fences made from corrugated board. But usually enough "miniature" bars from a profile steel pipe are used.

• For fences( temporary or stationary) from a mesh-netting suitable, in principle, any posts. But since the fence itself is inexpensive, it is usually used simple metal, and the mesh itself is either enclosed in a frame from the corner of the , or the is just tied to the supports.

Thin concrete castings( according to the type of garden "grape" columns) are also quite suitable.

• Heavy prefabricated concrete fences require a corresponding attitude. As support for them are either concrete poles, or steel pipes of the corresponding large diameter.

Requirements for fastening poles here are elevated. But such supports can withstand a very large load with any fence - the only question is whether they should be used with other fences.

• Finally, brick fences. It is clear that even in order to comply with the "finality" of the fence, it is necessary to use either brick posts laid out independently of the corresponding material, or concrete, which will not spoil the appearance.

However, it is often resorted to the fact that during construction, metal profiles are used as supports, which are subsequently decorated with a decorative brick.

Almost in any case, the brick worries require around the perimeter of the ribbon foundation.

Now that the "fence-pillars" ratio is clarified, you can move on to the installation of support structures for fences.

Is concreting always justified?

Interesting turn! The article about concreting the pillars, and immediately the categorical question - is it necessary at all?

The thing is that sometimes specific construction conditions make the process of concreting either absolutely impossible or impractical. The main reason for this is the features of the primer on the site.

swelling of the soil The point is that if the soils in the territory are too waterlogged, with the high location of the water layers , then the effect of winter swelling is inevitable.

The is located close to the surface when freezing, expanding, literally squeezes to the surface all the structures, the concrete belt of which is above the freezing level of the soil.

It turns out the picture, as if the earth itself had subsided under the supports. In fact, it is a clear sign that the winter swelling just pushed out, seemingly, conscientiously made poles to the surface. Naturally, such a process can take place unevenly, and means the fence is skewed, spans are deformed.

The ejection of installed poles from the ground under such circumstances directly depends on the area of ​​application of force from the bottom. So, in this case, we can talk about, then, the concrete belt around the pole plays a completely opposite role - it does not improve the stability of the support, but only significantly reduces the of its .And the wider it is in diameter at the surface of the earth, the more this negative effect is manifested.

Conclusion - not always concreting posts can solve the problem of building a fence. It will be optimal if the area is dominated by sandy soil, which simply by its structure can not hold the poles under load. It is quite justified the shallow concreting in of the black earth regions - the freezing level of the soil there does not reach significant depths. But if clay( loamy) soils with a high location of "perchage", then you need to either apply a different method of installation, or when concreting, use special receptions of , with mandatory deepening to the ground below the freezing point.

In the usual practice, several ways of installing the pillars are used: they are usually clogged in the ground, backfilling( sometimes you can find the term - dry concreting, although it does not differ in the correctness of the formulation, since concrete in in this case of does not apply ), partialconcreting only in the upper part of the of the buried section, point-wise concreting to the full depth, pouring a solid strip foundation for the fence with posts.

1 - usual piling of a column into the ground.

2 - partial concreting - in the upper half of the well.

3 - full concrete pouring of the column.

4 - post embedding with gravel .

And now " walk " for all these technologies in more detail.

Clogging of poles in the ground

If the soil is "problematic" on the site, and in principle, there are not too high requirements to the fence, then it is possible to restrict oneself to the simplest method of installation. This refers to the usual zakolachivanie pillars in the ground.

Probably does not need to emphasize obvious - it's possible only with metal supports - all other poles simply can not withstand the shock load from above.

To install the column in the in the , the can not do without drilling vertical holes. wells are usually required, which is 50 ÷ 100 mm narrower than the diameter of the planned pillar, and the depth is approximately ⅔ of the total "immersion".

itself. The hole is also needed for the ease of the passing the upper dense layers of the , and for the giving the the direction of the column setting. It would seem that is simple and reliable , but, as usual, there are a number of significant drawbacks to the :

First, the operation can not be called safe - to apply sufficient force it is necessary to be above the top edge of the hammered post. And at the same time it is necessary to provide( control) the verticality of the installation. In a word, no matter how adequate and extremely precise the " clogger " is, there is never a risk that he will not miss the with .The sledgehammer should also be such that there was no possibility of rattling the hammer from the handle.

The second - this method can seriously perceive . probably only when constructing temporary or very light fencing. Whatever one may say, but even not too stressed efforts will loosen both the posts and the fence in general.

Video: how to clog the poles with a self-made device

"Dry concreting " or forging

As already mentioned, only metal supports can be hammered. But if you plan to install wooden, concrete, asbestos-cement poles, but concreting is impossible, the will have to use the with a rammer.

• motobike. There are no special secrets here. First of all, after the marking, a hole is drilled under each column, the diameter about twice as wide. If there is no borax, manual or mechanized, then the pits can be excavated and manually, True, the quality of the subsequent ramming from this may suffer - too wide pits are also not needed by .

• The depth of immersion in the ground is usually calculated so that at least one third of the rack is placed under the with the ground. So, in order to establish a two-meter column, it is tiresome to go deeper into the earth about a meter. The pitch of the pillars can be different, but usually the most acceptable in terms of strength and economy is considered 2.5 meters( with any method of installing supports).

Now the most difficult thing is to accurately set the posts vertically. To check this one is best in two levels, by placing them in two perpendicular planes. If the work of is carried out by alone, it often has the sense as the to fasten to the column two levels, using tape or tape, for example. A is even easier if in the arsenal of the host there is a special tool - the so-called level KAPRO, which allows you to simultaneously track two planes.

Two angular columns require particularly careful vertical alignment. Then, fasting from the installation, it will be possible to pull the top and bottom cords that will greatly facilitate further work.

The verticality control is maintained by the constantly as the pit is filled around the pillar with the gravel with the its with very careful sealing. For tamping, the "small mechanization" - is used, the so-called for the ( vibronop ) with electric or gasoline drive. If this is not possible, the will have to do a manual ramming, for example, cutting the logs.

. In principle, the whole "secret" of the pole installation lies in the careful compaction of the buried soil( gravel or sand-gravel mixture of coarse fraction is usually used for this).

Bars installed in this manner have an important advantage. Brazed crushed stone or PG With with the still and drain , not allowing moisture to accumulate around the support. This circumstance is of special importance for heavy clay soils - the water does not stagnate, it independently retreats to the lower aquifers.

Everything seems to be good, but the vibrating effects on the fence( from the wind or from a different dynamic load) all is equal, little by little, loosening the pole. Over time, there is a shakiness, requiring repeated ramming of the ground near the poles, which, incidentally, does not always help. Nevertheless, , for not heavily heavy fences ( for example, for wooden or metal fences, for corrugated board) such method of mounting the supports will be quite acceptable.

Concreting posts for fence

Anyway, but often without qualitative concreting of poles for a fence, it's still impossible to manage, despite the condition of the ground in the installation area. For example, if the fence will have a significant mass of or , too, have too high a sail, with which blockage or backfilling simply can not cope. Especially, if it is planned to use, for example, reinforced concrete or asbestos-cement columns as supports.

On a normal ground, not prone to for winter swelling, this procedure should not cause any additional complications. Just drilled aperture, diameter approximately twice as wide as the pole.( If uses profile pipes with a cross section of approximately 60 × 60 mm as support, then the hole with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm should be drilled).

Partial concreting

All of the well can be poured with concrete, but often, with soil stability and low planned loads, it becomes possible to save. In this case, you can go in two ways:

1. The bottom of the well is trampled after the column is installed in the same way as with the conventional with the ( from ⅓ to ½ height).Another version of the is the if the post is metallic, it is pushed into the ground at the required depth. Then the remaining space is poured with concrete, mixed on a sand-gravel mixture.

From the point of view of the speed of the operation, this method is preferable, since in one day it is possible to establish all the supports completely, and then practically do not return to this issue. However, there are several significant nuances. So, when filling a well in the upper its parts may need additional formwork - so that solution does not spread on the sides and accepts the specified shape.

Second, with this approach, the master himself lays the "weak link" - creates a kind of "washer", which can be influenced by the forces of swelling the soil. That is, if swelling still happens , then the pole is almost guaranteed to be squeezed up.

2. Another method of partial concreting is to pour the bottom of the well, possibly even deeper the freezing limit of the soil. The upper part of the pit is filled with with gravel or gravel and carefully rammed.

. The effect of the ejection forces in this variant will be significantly reduced, that is, the risk of extruding the pole becomes minimal.

There are drawbacks to this approach, and very significant. So, it becomes much more difficult to sustain the verticality of the column when priming the cavity.- It is necessary to put any spacers to ensure the necessary immobility during the setting time of concrete. Secondly, process will take more time. So, the will have to wait for 3 ÷ 5 days, until the concrete is well seized, and only then continue to work on filling the pit and ramming the soil.

Video: the advisability of partial concreting sampling

Full concrete casting

If significant loads are to be assumed, then the wounds should be exhausted. Make full concreting of the well with the pole.

The simplest option is when the soils are stable. In this case, it will be sufficient to make a sand or gravel cushion up to 100 mm thick at the bottom of the well.

Then the pole itself is installed. If a metal support is used, the of its should be damped by welding the rectangular area. With any method of concreting, the installation of additional crosses is also welcomed - they will improve the stability of the column.

	Marking is carried out, exact locations of poles are determined. At the planned points, the turf and the upper layer of the soil are removed to the depth of the bayonet bayonet( the roots of the plants may interfere with the drilling of the well).
	A hole( borehole) with a diameter of 250 mm is made by manual or mechanical drill( 150 mm asbestos cement pipes are used for poles).The freezing level of the soil is 1000 mm, so that the holes are made to a depth of 1400 mm.
	After the required drilling depth is reached, a special expansion plow is installed on the drill bit. This device makes it possible to perform expansion of the well in the lower part - a similar measure will prevent extrusion of the pillars during winter swelling.
	"Verkhovodka" is located near the surface, so water begins to be collected in the wells. There is no point in pouring concrete in such conditions - but there are ways to solve this problem.
	A tube, folded from a conventional low-cost roofing felt, will help us. It must be placed in a sealed polyethylene bag for garbage - they are on sale in any supermarket.
	The received tube in a polyethylene "package" is inserted into the well to the full depth. Around the hole is installed something similar to the formwork - a rectangular box.
	The process of pouring the ready-mixed concrete begins. To be more convenient, you can build something like a funnel - for example, from an old bucket without a bottom. Concrete under its weight will fill all the cavities, expanding the folds of the package and expanding the roofing pipe to the size of the well. But, at the same time, it does not contact either water or soil.
	When the well is nearly filled to the top, two reinforcing bars are inserted. Their length is selected so that it is enough for the entire column, and under the ground, and outside, not reaching to the top literally by 200 ÷ 250 mm. Diameter of the reinforcement - 12 ÷ 16 mm
	For convenience, it is advisable to pull a cord that will mark the upper edge of the
	pillars. A spear drill is inserted into the drill and a through hole is drilled in the body of the pipe.
	A cut-out of the reinforcement is inserted into the hole. This peculiar pin becomes the focus when installing the pipe in place. The pipe is put on installed reinforcing bars, immersed in a solution.
	The next task is to place the columns exactly vertically. At that, two levels or a special level of KAPRO are used - as in the picture.
	To make it easier to install temporary supports to level the pillars, you can think of some devices yourself. For example, it is convenient to work if made in such a wooden yoke.
	Spacers can be installed ordinary wooden - they are easy to attach to our wooden yoke with regular screws.
	When the column is given an ideally vertical position, it is possible to fill the liner from the roofing material with concrete "under the string. After this, the verticality is checked once more, and the bars are left to harden the solution.
	After the concrete in the sleeve is properly seized, it is necessary to immediately consider the method of fixing to the fence pillars. At the same height, which is also advisable to pierce the cord, in the longitudinal direction( as will go the fence) are drilled through holes. Usually there are two levels for fastening - from above and from below.
	The studs are inserted into the drilled holes and locked on both sides with nuts. The protruding threaded parts will later serve as fixing points for the spans.
	After the spigots are installed, you can re-mix the concrete mortar. Now they are filled with the columns themselves - to their full height. At the same time, it is necessary to form a "cap" from above, in order that the rainwater simply drains downward.
	When the concrete is fully seized, you can remove the wooden box and gently knock out the pivot. It is not excluded that he will not give in - it is not necessary to "rape", since he has the risk of hitting the pipe wall. It remains to simply cut it from both sides with a grinder. Around the pipe, too, make a "cap" - a slope for water flow. If there is free space around the sleeve, then it is ground with gravel or simply soil.
	As you can see, this process can not be called fast. But with the correct organization of labor, you can consistently do several posts per day, alternating operations. For example, corner tables are already poured to the top, while in the interval the sections are drilled, the primary installation, the installation of fasteners, etc. Several bricks per day should be obtained.
Miniature	Process description

A rectangular formwork is often built around the post from the top - it turns out to be more practical, and just is more beautiful than .Each support has its own basement.

When the well is filled with concrete, needs to take measures to maximize the filling of the solution to be filled. Vibro-rammers are used, the filled compound is pierced with rods in order to prevent air bubbles.

It is natural that in the process of pouring and immediately after it the verticality of the poles is controlled - before grasping the solution everything is in our hands, and corrections are permissible. The post is fixed in the given position in any convenient way - supports, slopes, extensions and , .

After the concrete pouring takes on the necessary strength, you can proceed with the installation of the spans. To hurry with this does not follow - concrete even in summer, in warm weather, it takes 3 ÷ 4 weeks to reach maturity. After this support will not be afraid of external loads.

Concreting on "hard" soil

If is in the hedge area at , is deep freezing , the water layers are high, then all is equal to remains capability reliably to concrete the columns for fence. It is possible to consider such technological process on as a glaring example - very convenient and reliable method. So, supports are installed from the asbestos-cement pipe in a section with a high location of the "perchage":

This method is applicable not only with asbestos-cement pipes - metal or concrete poles can be installed in the same way. Of course, everywhere there are nuances. So, for example, round or shaped steel pipes absolutely do not need to fill with cement to the top. But for them it will be necessary to provide covers or visors that will not allow rain or melt water to enter the cavity of the pipe.

And, finally, at the conclusion of the publication, can draw 's attention to another at one point. In a number of cases( and in difficult soils - in particular), it is necessary to resort to pouring the ribbon foundation under the fence with simultaneous installation of poles. The methods of mounting supports, in principle, do not differ much from those described in the article. But about the filling of the strip foundation is better to read in the special publication of our portal.