Laying a parquet board yourself - step by step instruction in two ways

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stowage There is an opinion that it is not difficult to perform such work on your own without paying for the professional's work. This is only partly correct. Lay the floorboard really can everyone, but what will be the result, how long will this "finish" cover - a big question.

So that the idea of ​​wasted effort and money would not come later, it is necessary not only to study the technique of laying a parquet board. You need to have a clear idea of ​​all the features of this product, which will allow you to better understand the specifics of its installation. Therefore, before considering directly all the stages of this work, it is worthwhile dwelling on this particular issue separately.

Parquet board( as a finishing material) has specific features.

Firstly, , it should not be confused with traditional parquet( piece).It's really hard to pack it, and a specialist will be needed here. By the way, in some articles containing instructions for assembling the parquet board, judging by the technology described, the authors do not see a difference between these types of products.

The products considered are characterized by the following typical dimensions: 1 - 2.2 cm( thickness);1.8 - 2.5 m( length) and 14 - 20 cm( width).This alone shows that the difference between the "board" and the "parquet" is significant. By the way, it is also in value - the board is much cheaper.

Secondly, , there are several varieties of a parquet board - one-, two- or three-lane, as well as with a figured arrangement of strips. But they all have the same structure - in 3 layers, which are stacked relative to each other "cross-wise", which gives the product stability before mechanical influences. However, direct contact with liquids should be avoided.

Thirdly, , the samples are fully prepared for use, so additional measures( puttying, bending, grinding) are not carried out. And given that the top layer in the manufacturing process is varnished or treated with oil-wax compositions, the need for subsequent surface finish of such a floor disappears.

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Fourthly, , even the thinnest types of parquet boards are not so flexible that they can be mounted on an uneven surface. That is why leveling the base is a must.

Fifth, the - there are 2 ways of fastening the boards together. It depends on the type of connection, which can be padlocked or tongue-and-groove.

Sixth , products with a thickness of more than 1.4 are mounted only by gluing on a substrate or substrate.




Knowing these features of the material, you can proceed to consider the issue of laying a parquet board.

Algorithm for the operation of

shema Before you can finish the flooring with a parquet board, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's instructions. If the purchased goods are not counterfeit, then it must be( on the package).

Preparation of the framework includes a number of activities, the volume of which depends on local conditions. Parquet board can be laid on concrete( with a substrate), plank floor( rough), particleboard or MDF( "dry screed").The main condition for high-quality installation is alignment( "swings" up to 2 mm).

If the concrete floor has significant irregularities, a new screed( not thinner than 5 cm) is made. In addition, it should be remembered that it must dry out to the full depth. It is much easier to choose another, less dirty, expensive and troublesome method, especially if it is a city apartment. About how to make a "dry" screed, about all its possible options, you can read in this article.

It is necessary to take into account how it will look after the completion of work, how it will be "oriented".After all, the board exactly repeats the location of the base relative to the horizontal plane. Therefore, in the process of preparing for installation, it is necessary to pay attention to the gradient. It should not exceed 1 mm per 1 m.surface.

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The next step is the waterproofing of the substrate. The cheapest way is to use polyethylene film. If opportunities permit, it is better to purchase a membrane, with which you can cover the whole floor at once, with one cloth. In the case of using roll material, the strips are laid with overlapping, and the places of their "joints" are sealed. It is most convenient to do this with scotch( construction).

In any case, the waterproofing is wrapped on the walls in such a way that these "surpluses" are subsequently covered with skirting boards.

When laying, use one of two methods. Each of them is characterized as "pluses", and "minuses", and which one to choose is decided from the specifics of operation of a particular room, the requirements for sex and the skills of the "master".

The glueless method( "floating" floor) requires a minimum of time without additional material costs. As with piece parquet, the board has a so-called "click-system"( spikes and grooves).Therefore, the articulation of the samples does not cause complications. The main thing is to fit them tightly.

This is best done by cutting the board( or plastic) and the kayak, and the connection is made by tapping it lightly, until it snaps into place. But it should not be very dense( taking into account the temperature deformation).Work, as in the installation of most types of flooring, begins with a far corner. But how to keep the packing - right-to-left or vice versa - does not matter.

Docking of the edge boards is done with "padding" wedges that are inserted between the product and the wall.

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Another undeniable advantage of this method is the maintainability of the coating. Replacement of the damaged board is quick and "painless".However, there are some limitations. If the floor is subjected to high loads( for example, intensive movement of people), then on separate boards the thorns can not stand and break. In addition, this technique is not used for diagonal arrangement, when decorating large areas.

The method of gluing is more laborious, but it provides greater strength of the floor covering, and can be applied on any surfaces, regardless of their overall dimensions.

on-the-glue Before buying an adhesive, you need to pay attention to its characteristics such as "setting time".If it is only a few minutes, then it will not be possible to correct any shortcomings( align, correct individual boards).

Adhesive is applied differently, depending on the specifics of the room and dimensions - on the back side of the board( solid, criss-cross, individual "points") and on the "groove" edge( on one side or both).

In some cases, the installation can be carried out on a supporting frame or on logs( for example, with small areas and the impossibility of preparing a base).With this method, boards are fastened mechanically( nails, screws, construction clips).

Thus, even for such seemingly uncomplicated work, there are numerous nuances. In the article they are considered, and what to "orientate", the thinking master will understand without difficulty.

Regardless of local conditions, there are general recommendations for mounting.

  • Thickness of the material for waterproofing( film p / e) - not less than 0.2 mm.
  • The humidity in the room should not exceed 65%.
  • You can not lay the newly purchased products. It must be "sustained" in a particular room for several hours. This is necessary to equalize the temperatures of the substrate and the parquet board, which will eliminate its subsequent deformation and "warping" of the entire floor covering.
  • Do not use adhesives with a water base.
  • As there is inevitably some temperature expansion of the material, you need to leave some gap between the edge boards and the walls( with the expectation that the skirting board hides it).In the process of operation this will prevent the floor from "swelling".
  • is NOT RECOMMENDED to cover the parquet board with a wet, not dried out base.
  • It should be borne in mind that in any case, the boards will have to be cut, as it will not be possible to finish the whole floor whole, especially if the room has niches, ledges and the like. Therefore, when determining the required amount of material, it is necessary to provide a certain reserve - about 5%.When the boards are positioned diagonally( as this is much more difficult to do), 10%.

And the last recommendation - it is best to equip a parquet board with a "dry" screed( for example, from plywood with a moisture-resistant layer).Such a foundation will be maximally leveled.

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