Log house

Wood, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively preserves heat, but also gives the air in the room a special flavor.

To build a wooden bath, you must first prepare the bar.

Step 1. Preparation of the round rod

Attention! To determine the quality of the logs( you can at any time be able to abandon the low-grade logs), you need to know about the ideal harvesting conditions, which we will consider below.

Timber must be harvested at minus temperatures, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying, the material will be less deformed and cracked.

For the purpose of durability of the log house, certain sections of logs( so-called logs of logs) are used in the construction. These areas start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such logs are more dense( which advantageously differ from the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Also, the selection criteria include the circular shape and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, the error is an error exceeding 1 cm per running meter.

Attention! If the length, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.

The same applies to the diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the tops are 25 cm or less. Such round timber is strictly not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the wood species. In an ideal for a bath coniferous breeds of a tree( a fur-tree, a larch, etc.) should be used. Larch is resistant to moisture, although in extreme cases it is possible to resort to a combination of "pine-spruce", in which several first wreaths are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in the construction, the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.

Follow up on the previous project. Such a project can be compiled by yourself, found on the Internet or ordered from specialists. It is through this document that you can calculate the required quantity of consumables, determine the area and shape of the substrate.

Stage 2. Processing of the beam

Step 1. After you brought the consumable( or you cut and delivered it yourself), it needs days 25-30 to lie down.

Step 2 .Further carefully consider and sort through the logs - leave only the highest quality ones, and defective or damaged reject.

Step 3. Then proceed to processing. First, clean the logs of the bark( do it carefully so that they do not crack), leaving it slightly on the sides - approximately 15 cm strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, place the logs in storage approximately 25 cm from the ground. You can stack as you like - with stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Log preparation

Stage 3. Basement construction

Immediately make a reservation, that from massive monolithic foundations it is possible to refuse because of insignificant weight of the future design. For the sake of economy, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:

• ribbon foundation;
• columnar.

Consider each of the options.

Baseband type

For the construction of such a foundation along the perimeter as well as under future walls, dig a 40 cm wide trench and a depth of50 cm, lay on the bottom of the "pillow" of sand and gravel. Then lay the reinforcement, build a timbering 50 cm high and pour concrete mortar. As a result, the height of the foundation is approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.

Video - Filling the foundation

Inside the perimeter, fill in strips of sand and gravel. In the future, the strip can be poured with concrete or build a wooden floor on them. The choice of this or that variant depends on personal preferences and financial possibilities.

Foundation column

In the case of a columnar foundation, it is necessary to erect supports. There are two possible options:

• brick;
• from asbestos pipes.

Place the supports at the corners of the perimeter, and under all walls in 1.5 m steps. Place a concrete "pillow" under each support. In each support, fix several rods of the armature in such a way that the last protrude over the surface for a minimum of 30 cm.

Make a formwork with a height of 40 cm, lay the armature in it and connect it to the rods protruding from the supports. Fill with a concrete solution. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can proceed with further work.

Stage 4. Base waterproofing

Treat the foundation surface with melted bitumen and lay a layer of ruberoid on top. After the bitumen has dried completely, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer waterproofing.

Stage 5. Preparation of

tools The following equipment is required for operation:

• chisel;
  

  Chisel

• carpenter's ax;
  

• carpenter's ax of medium power;
• plumb line;
  

  Plumbing

• level;
  

  Laser level

• electric drill;
  

  Cordless drill / screwdriver

• mallet;
  

  Wooden kayak

• is a "feature".
  

  Dash( tool)

The last tool - "dashes" - will pay special attention. For manufacturing, steel wire with sharply sharpened ends is required. Bend the wire in half so that it has the shape of a compass, you can additionally fasten the handle. This tool will be required when marking logs.

Stage 6. Construction of log house

There are several assembly techniques:

• Russian assembly;
• Canadian;
  

  The Canadian cabin

• is Norwegian.
  

  New Zealand

  

  Swedish wheelhouse

The first option - Russian wheelhouse - is the easiest to perform, even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.

Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and start with a crown( in other words, from the first).Logs, which will serve as a folding crown, outline on the edge for the most tight fit to the foundation.

Step 2. Lay the first pair of logs over the waterproofing layer. Next pair lay at an angle of 90 ° relative to the first and connect everything in the "cup".

Attention! The "cup" is the simplest version of the connection when building a building of buildings. Performed quite simply: in the lower part of the log measured the boundaries of the future "cup", then using the "dash" marks the groove. After re-checking the dimensions, the groove is neatly cut with an ax.

You can use a chainsaw - it will save time. Although the final finish of the "cups" still have to do with an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown of the "cup" will not be deep, so that the logs will not touch the ground. Therefore, in the gap that appears, put a lining - a small piece of the board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with a heater.

Step 3. Next, lay the second crown using the thickest logs. This is because in the future you will cut the sex lags into them. For the purpose of tight fit, make a longitudinal groove in the upper log, which would be equal to one third of the diameter of the previous log. To plot the boundaries of the groove, place the upper log on the bottom and perform the marking using the "dash".

Warning! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular and triangular. If there is a chainsaw, then you will cope with a triangular groove in two or three minutes. But remember: logs with a similar groove will not be tightly connected, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.

Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw, use a chisel to remove the residue.

Step 4. Insulate the connections of the logs, preferably with the help of flax linen. One piece of cloth lay on the bottom crown, secondly compact the longitudinal groove( especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns to each other. Here you can use:

• dowels of square shape;
• round nagels made of wood.

The second method is preferable, since nagels can be purchased already prepared and holes made with an electric drill.

Make holes in steps of 1-1.5 m, parallel stitching completely a couple of upper rims and not completely - the third( bottom).To avoid skewing, after shrinkage is finished, put nails in the top crown at least 6-7 cm.

Logs Step 6. Raise the walls to the desired height, lay ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If wet wood was used, then instead of the rafters lay slate sheets and wait until the structure shrinks. Usually, it's enough to winter one time, but ideally shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In spring, when shrinkage is complete, proceed to caulking.

Video - Aspen shingle roof

Stage 7. Door, window openings

We specifically started talking about the openings after the completion of the construction, because there are two options for their arrangement.

1. In the first case, the holes are created after the completion of the construction work. In the crowns located in the places of future openings, first leave small gaps( the dimensions of the latter depend on the dimensions of the products to be mounted).When you finish laying the logs, just cut through the openings of the chainsaw.
2. In the second case, leave openings in the process of construction. This is very laborious and expensive, since you will use bars with cuts at the ends and special grooves.
   

   How to install a window into a frame

   

   Mounting a window

   

   Windows for a sauna

   

   Doors for a log house

Therefore, we recommend giving preference to the first option.

Step 8. Logs of logs

After termination of shrinkage, the caulking log is executed. To do this, prepare the following equipment:

• hammer;
• caulk( made of wood or metal).

Warning! If you compacted the intergrowth space of the stick or moss, then you can skip this step, because you probably will not need a caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then the procedure is still better to perform.

Start work only after the insulation has dried completely. First, twist the material( tow or moss) into a bundle, then hammer between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.

You can use ribbon jute - in this case the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.

Video - Log boarding

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree shrinks, you can start building a roof. If you do this before, the roof will simply lead.

Step 1. Lay the wooden beams on the strapping of the walls( we already mentioned this).

Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in steps of 1 m. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at the appropriate angle for the connection.

Step 3. Nail to the rafters solid wooden flooring( if you plan to use a roll roofing material) or make a crate( if you use slate, tile, etc.).

Step 4. Install the roofing according to the instructions for the concrete material.

Step 5. Cover the blade with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Step 6. The roof fronts are sewed with siding or lining.

After this, proceed to further planned work - pouring concrete screed or constructing a wooden floor( in the second case, logs are cut into the second crown and fixed), install a heater, perform interior finishing and steam room according to your design.

As a conclusion. Some practical advice

1. Sometimes when assembling there is a need for docking logs. In this case, do not allow joints to sit on top of each other. Moreover, dowels are inadmissible in the lower crown.
2. When laying a frame on a ready foundation, it is possible to assemble the logs before drying, laying the seal between them.
3. It is desirable to equip the windows already after shrinkage, because otherwise they can skew.

Now you know how to build an log house sauna .