Any household appliance, for whose operation it is necessary to connect it to the mains, is an object of increased danger. This must be remembered constantly. Consequently, a fairly common opinion of the type "do according to the instructions, and everything is in order" or "no worse than those who made" to put it mildly, is not entirely true. It is also necessary to "calculate" all the consequences of the self-connection of the hob.
We will not repeat and trouble the reader by reading information that he can easily learn from the manufacturer's instructions( and such a document is attached to each product), especially since the range of hobs is so large that a single "recipe", taking into account the design features and differences in characteristicsmodels, can not be.
It should be noted at once - everything that will have to be additionally purchased( mounted, connected, etc.) should be calculated for the current strength exceeding the working panel for at least 1.5 times. Plus to this - what voltage( for some elements of the elec / circuit this matters)?
Socket
Many of our homes have rosettes of "Soviet" production. Fork of all imported electronic devices corresponds to the European standard. Naturally, the cross-sections of the "pin" and "holes" do not coincide. Do not try to use force. Of course, with a certain perseverance, this will still give a result( who wants to, will achieve it).
The question is in another - the contact group of the socket will be deformed. As a result - systematic sparking in the place of contact "pins" with lamellas. To what it can lead, comment without need.
Many are trying to solve the problem radically - replace the outlet with "euro".But the point? In our houses only "phase" and "zero" are entered into the apartments, but for some reason the Soviet "standardizers" did not think about connecting to the common ground ground of a single apartment. Therefore, in fact, the sense of the euro-outlet( in the absence of a ground wire) is zero. Only waste of time and garbage on the floor after such work.
If you can not figure it out( or the document is lost), you can focus on the following relationships( power - current): to 3.5 kW - at least 16 A;up to 6 kW - 32 A .
E-wiring
Ideally, for each powerful device / appliance, there must be a separate line. But it will be realized only in the private sector. But how to be a city dweller? The first step is to inspect the power shield in the entrance. Finding your "own" machine is easy, if you know where our "e-mail" counter is installed. What is important? The cross-section of the conductors of the wire, which "leaves" for the apartment. Not everyone is able to determine this visually, so it is better to consult a person who understands the "squares".
What to take into account
- The hob is an extra, and powerful, load on the line. Does it make sense to include this device in the existing network( taking into account its deterioration) or lay a separate "thread" for this particular device?
- Approximate ratios( current strength - "quadrature" of the wire section): 16 A - from 2.5;32 A - from 4 .
It is better to lay a new "thread" for a specialist - read the prices here. And immediately lay the wire at least 4 wires - "phase", "ground", "zero"( if required) + 1 spare.
Additional circuit elements
- Individual( panel only) circuit breaker. For a 16 A device - a calculated minimum of 25;respectively for 32 A - not less than 40.
- RCD.This device is often confused with the automatic protection device, but these are completely different circuit elements. Each performs its function, and therefore it must be included in the chain.
Note
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The instructions of many models have small wiring diagrams. For those who forgot the notation, it is worth recalling. "L" is always a phase wire , that is energized. The symbol "PE" is used to mark the grounding of . - If possible, then the outlet from the circuit is better to exclude. Superfluous contacts are unnecessary problems. The power cable or cable( from the machine) in this case is connected directly to the "terminal" of the hob. And to disconnect( if necessary) is easy - with the help of the same protection device.
- For the laying of a new line, it is necessary to purchase wires( cable) only with cores of copper. And necessarily with a shell of the category "heat-resistant".For example, "H05SS-F".
- Grounding must be individual. It can not be "paralleled" with other household units.
After connection, the panel must be checked in all operating modes. It is mandatory - to trigger all the provided protections by simulating abnormal situations.
And in conclusion I want to note that the article should not be considered a direct "guide to action" and focus only on the indicated numerical values. It's just a good tip for people who understand the basics of technology. Everything else - strictly according to the instructions for the .Well, if the reader is not "friendly" with an electrician, then you should not experiment - professional fees in any case will be much cheaper than extinguishing a fire.
