Foundation yourself for a bath

Such a foundation is the most popular. You can fill it with your own hands, while taking care of the laying of communications. For work you will need:

• tools for earth works;
• pegs, cord and measuring tools;
• boards for formwork;
• metal fittings and binding wire;
• ready-mixed concrete, or concrete mixer, tool, container and mixture for solution preparation;
• pipes for sewerage;
• self-tapping screws and screwdrivers or a construction stapler;
• waterproofing - mastic and ruberoid.

Preparation of

Where to build a sauna? First of all, pay attention to the landscape of your site and the type of sewer that will be equipped. For example, a cesspool and a septic tank should be located away from water points, reservoirs, neighboring areas. If, however, the drainage of the baths is connected to the central sewerage system, the building can be erected at any convenient location of the site, for example, in a small( from 30 meters) distance from the river, pond, pool.

Tip! Even at the preparation stage, think about how to hide from the views of strangers the territory in front of the bath. Make a markup under the fence or determine the places for planting trees and shrubs.

Also the preparation is reduced to removal of the top layer of soil and leveling of a site. For this it is worth using the services of special equipment.

Layout

We will make the markup based on the large-scale project of the future bath. It will be necessary to note the outer and inner lines of the walls.

To mark the outer perimeter, you need to take a building angle, cord, tape measure, pegs and plumb line. Checking the verticality of the plumb line, drive the first peg in the place where there will be one of the corners of the building.

In the same way we set 4 more pegs, checking the angles for accuracy. We perform check measurements of the diagonals of the perimeter of the bath. If they are equal, then we can proceed with the marking of the inner perimeter, if not, then we correct the position of the stakes, repeatedly checking the lengths of the sides, the accuracy of the angles and the diagonal. We pull the cord between the stakes. The horizontal position of the cord will be the height of the foundation. We check the tensioned cord with a level and proceed to the marking of internal partitions and perimeter.

From the outer perimeter we retreat to a distance equal to the thickness of the tape base. We drive in the stakes and pull the cord, using a plumb bob, gon and roulette. The cord indicates the location of future partitions.

Excavation

Gently, in order not to disturb the marking, it is necessary to dig trenches under the foundation pouring. The depth of the foundation can be determined by specifying the type of soil and checking with the table below.

Soil types	Soil primers within the calculated freezing depth	Distance from ground level to groundwater level during freezing season	Depth of foundation
Non-hepatic	Coarse-grained, gravelly sands, large and medium-sized	Not standardized	Any, regardless of the depth of freezing, but not less than 50 cm
Friable	Sand fine and dusty	Exceeds the calculated freezing depth by more than 2 meters	Any, regardless of the depthfreezing bins, but not less than 50 cm
Friable	Suspisse	Same at least 2 meters	At least 3/4 of the calculated depth of freezing, but not less than 0.7 meters
Friable	Loam and clay	Less than calculated depthfreezing	No less than the calculated depth of freezing

The bottom of the trenches must be compacted with a vibration plate or a manual rammer and aligned by checking the hydraulic level.

Immediately after tamping, we fall asleep with sand trenches. The thickness of the pillow can be as follows:

• shallow foundation - up to 7 cm;
• deep foundation - up to 15 cm;
• foundation "floating" type - up to 40 cm

Sand is also important to align horizontally and tamper, abundantly saturated with water. If the thickness of the sand layer is large, the backfilling, ramming and spilling with water is done layer by layer( 5-7 cm).Further work can be done in 2-3 days, when the pillow dries.

Formwork

Formwork for the strip foundation can be assembled from boards, slate, fiberboard and other similar materials. By the way, shields made of plastic or metal can be rented, which will greatly simplify the construction process. It is desirable to wrap the materials for the formwork, then they can be reused in the construction of other objects.

Formwork is installed in trenches, on the outside, propping up with lumber and stakes. Between the walls of the formwork there are wooden transverse struts and metal studs with a 50 cm slab so that under the mass of concrete poured the shields do not disperse sideways. With the ground fastened shields with long nails( 20 cm), with each other - self-tapping screws or a stapler.

In the boards there must be openings for the discharge of sewer pipes and other communications. Otherwise, after pouring it will be necessary to drill concrete, which will negatively affect the strength of the foundation.

Tip! If you do not use a film to protect the wooden formwork, then attach a stapler to the glassine. It prevents the rapid absorption of moisture from the wood from the concrete solution and, as a result, cracking of the foundation.

Video - Woodworking with own hands

Video - Formwork for decking base not removable from EPD

Reinforcement

Armopoyas is made of thick reinforcement( > 12 mm longitudinal and 6-8 mm transverse, vertical reinforcement).For work, you will need a Bulgarian, wire for a bundle of armopoyas, a welding machine, as well as a tape measure.

Belt consists of longitudinal( four or more), transverse and vertical armatures. At the same time, the entire structure should be 5 cm from the formwork, the soil and the top of the foundation, and be reinforced in the corners of the building. The cross section of the armopoyas is a rectangle or a square.

The reinforcement is cut to the required length. On the ground are laid out longitudinal and transverse bars, which are connected by wire in places of contact. Welding the frame is not recommended, since the welded frame can lose integrity when compacting the poured concrete or operating the constructed bath.

The longitudinal bars are folded and bonded to each other with an overlap of about 30 cm.

. The distance between the transverse and vertical bars should not exceed 50 cm. If the strip foundation is up to 120 cm wide,of two, and of three longitudinal armatures. At a large height of the foundation, it is also worthwhile to increase the number of longitudinal bars. Also on top of the frame is reinforced with U-shaped clips designed to increase the strength of the structure and reduce the risk of cracking of the tape base.

At the corners of the bath frame is additionally reinforced by a fitting located at an angle of 45 degrees with respect to horizontal rods.

The finished bonded frame is mounted on plastic supports. To ensure that during the pouring of concrete there is no movement, plastic fasteners are inserted between the formwork and the fittings.

Video - Harness of the armature by the hook

Video - Armpole binding

Pouring of the basement for the bath

The main rule is monolithic, that is, the whole mass of concrete must be filled in the formwork in one day. Therefore, if you do not have a concrete mixer, you should order the ready-made concrete M200 or M400 in the factory. Be sure to make sure that the mixer with concrete can drive up to either side of the foundation of your bath.

You can independently prepare concrete by mixing dry loose materials in the following proportions:

• cement M400 or M500 - 1 part;
• sand sifted - 3 parts;
• rubble clean without foreign inclusions - 4 or 5 parts.

Water is added to the dry mix in such a quantity that the ready-made concrete is not too thick and does not spread.

Concrete is laid out in the formwork in layers of 20 cm, leveled with shovels, trowel and at the same time either pierced with a rod of reinforcement, or compacted with a vibrator. This is necessary to remove the existing voids( air bubbles).For the same purpose it is important to tap the walls of the formwork.

The poured foundation for the night and in the rain is covered with a film, and in the afternoon, spilled with water. When the concrete solidifies( after 14 days), it is possible to remove the formwork and sand the surface of the foundation, however, it is not recommended to start further construction earlier than a month after pouring.

The ready foundation for the bath must be waterproofed by gluing two layers of roofing material onto the bituminous mastic.

Video - Foundations for bath. Advice from

professionals