How to build a cellar on the street

• A sand cushion is poured onto the bottom of the foundation pit, 100-120 mm thick, it should be well packed. To do this, sand a little moisturize and compact.
• Sand tops with crushed stone, 60 to 80 mm thick, its and tamped it.

• Next, along the perimeter of the excavation, it is good to make a limiting formwork and lay the reinforcement. The height of the foundation-floor can be from 70 to 120 mm.
• The next step in the formwork is poured concrete and leveled.
• After its hardening and removal of the formwork, the sides of the foundation can be coated with tar, which isolates it well from moisture coming from the ground.

It should be noted that the floor of the cellar is sometimes left and earthen. This is possible with if the groundwater is deep enough. The earth floor will allow to remain in the cellar of natural ventilation and soil temperature at a given depth. In this case, for the erection of walls on the bottom of the excavation, a strip foundation is poured around the perimeter.

Wall erection, ventilation device and waterproofing

• You can build walls on the prepared foundation. For the laying of brick walls of the cellar, a mixture of clay and sand is most often used, but a conventional cement mortar can also be used.
• If the cellar overlap will be to support on the masonry of walls, then their thickness should be equal to one brick.
• When used to support the ceiling, not only the walls, but also the soil surrounding the cellar, then their thickness in half a brick is sufficient.
• If there is a place for waterproofing between the earthen walls of the excavation and the masonry, then, as far as its reference, this space is filled with clay, spilled by water and carefully compacted.

• is immediately provided. Between the clay fill and the brick wall, can be fastened to the layer of roofing material.
• After laying one or two rows of bricks, in the opposite corner from the entrance, in the wall to the entire height of the basement, a niche for the ventilation pipe is cut in the ground.
• In the second or third row of masonry, in front of the niche, install a vent pipe with a corner tap, which is embedded in a wall. Later this hole should be covered with a shallow grate , so that the inside the cellar was not penetrated by rodents.
• The pipe above the surface of the cellar should be raised at least one and a half meters.
• Walls are erected to the top of the excavation, with constant control of their verticality and horizontality using the plummet and the building level.

Important note - if the groundwater is close to the foundation-floor, then it is necessary to arrange a drainage layer around the brick walls. He usually falls asleep from rubble or broken bricks. The moisture on it will be allocated to from the cellar to a specially arranged near the cellar capacity or pit.

Video: recommendations for the calculation of ventilation of the cellar

Cellar overlap

The cellar overlay can be done in different ways. The simplest of them is the installation of concrete slabs on top of it, which should, apart from the walls, lean against the ground around the cellar for 400 - 500 mm. But not every site can get a technician able to lift the plate and put its on the intended place, so very often you have to do the overlap yourself. In addition to concrete ready-made slabs, homemade concrete, wooden or combined floors can be arranged. The latter is convenient because between the wooden beams it is convenient to lay the insulation from inside the cellar, and also fix the ceiling boards.

• If this option is chosen, then the roofing material is laid on top of the walls and on the ground around them, the which is laid with processed bars, with size 150 × 100 mm - they will act as beams. The distance between them should not be more than 500 mm.
• On top of the beam bars flooring is packed from the boards, with an opening for the hatch.
• Then, the top of the wooden boards is covered with waterproofing from the dense polyethylene film . The film should be found on the ground, around the cellar.

• hatch must always be left. reinforcing board is laid on top of the , the limiting formwork is installed, and then the resulting space is poured with a concrete solution that is leveled and left to dry. The thickness of the concrete overlapping on the wooden substrate should be 40 ÷ 50 mm.
• After hardening of concrete, the hole for the hatch, if necessary, rises to the desired height and a lid is installed on it.

With the device of such an entrance, the ladder can only be the simplest.

Roof above the cellar

A gable roof will be installed above the hatch, and the rest of the space above the cellar is covered with film remaining on the surface and sprinkled with soil.

Since the concrete site will be larger than the cellar room, the gable roof is installed on the entire its width. Thus, above the hatch is formed a small triangular barn, in which it is even possible to add up some firewood.

The roof construction is assembled from quality lumber. Rafters of stingrays are fastened at the bottom by bars, which will become a reliable base for the roof. They need to be fixed on a concrete foundation with anchor elements.

You can do it in another way. On the perimeter of the concrete pad, it is necessary to fold two or three rows of bricks into the , and install the roof structure on top of the .The brick part of this mini-shed must be covered with waterproofing.

The front part of the roof is covered with boards, and the roofing material can be laid on the slopes, and slate or metal tile on top. Some prefer to cover the ramp with plywood, and then lay a soft roof. On the one hand, the gable is completely sewn, and on the other hand, the opening is left for the installation of the entrance door.

When the cellar becomes not afraid of precipitation, you can conduct the inside lighting and produce a wall and ceiling finish.

Illumination of the cellar

Interior decoration of the room can of course do and up to the floor device, but there is no guarantee that its will not spoil the suddenly gone rain. Therefore , conduct electricity and make the lighting better after the hatch has been closed by the roof.

Lighting should be done not only in the basement room, but also at the entrance to it under the roof.

From the house to the roof above the hatch in the cellar the copper wires in of reliable double insulation are pulled out, from this entrance room they are already laid down. Lamps must be placed in such a way that the under no conditions could not be touched when descending to the basement. It is best to close the bulb with a protective cap.

The wiring must be done so that the bulbs are switched on simultaneously - under the roof and in the cellar. The switch should be placed under the roof at the entrance, at a convenient height, approximately 1,2 ÷ 1, 5 m from the floor. Installing outlets in a cellar or basement is prohibited by for safety.

If there is no experience with power supply and connection, it is better to entrust qualified specialists, since without knowing the wiring system, at best , you can leave the whole house without light.

Wall, floor and ceiling finish

If the cellar is well is waterproofed , then any material can be used for finishing. If the ceiling is arranged on the bars, then it is worthwhile to lay a heater in mats between them - this will keep the temperature in the cellar room even in the winter frosts and in the summer heat.

To strengthen the insulation to the concrete ceiling, it is possible to mount a lattice structure that can press the mats against the surface. From below, it will not be very difficult to cover the ceiling with boards or moisture-resistant plasterboard by screwing the from to the bars.

. The cellar floors are recommended by to waterproof from the inside, by covering them with a ruberoid, which is glued on the heated mastic or tar. The walls from below for 130 ÷ 150 mm are also covered with a waterproofing compound.

Ruberoid and mastic can be replaced with liquid rubber or liquid silicate glass, which will also create a waterproof layer.

Many of the walls are left brick, without additional coating, but it is better to finish them with plaster mortar, wiping it up to an ideal evenness. They can be impregnated with a liquid waterproofing that is able to penetrate deep into the plaster and, crystallized, make the its waterproof. After the waterproofing dries, you can whitewash the walls with the lime-, which will make the cellar room neater and lighter.

After the is finished and the entire finish of the cellar is finished, you might think about where and how many shelves to place and where to organize boxes( boxes) for storage of root crops.

There is one trick that will help land owners to naturally remove excess moisture from the cellar. To do this, simply plant around the cellar berry bushes, which will actively absorb moisture from the soil. You can not plant trees of any breed close to the construction, as they can destroy the waterproofing by their roots, and in time - even the walls of the cellar.

Video: stages of construction of one of the variants of the cellar

Cellar with inclined entrance and earth in bulk

The second variant of the cellar is arranged on a small hill, if it is on the site. In the case of high groundwaters and the presence of such a place on the territory, this cellar will be the best option. However, such an "elevation" can be created artificially.

. The peculiarity of this approach is that all the soil that is selected from the excavation is used for embankment on top of the roof and entrance. A thick layer of soil will not allow the cellar to be heated in summer, and in winter it will keep the necessary temperature inside to conserve food.

When constructing such a cellar for the entrance, a door is used, and not a hatch, as in the first variant. The ladder leading down is made of cement mortar, brick or processed boards, and has wide steep steps, rather than simple crossbeams.

The most important advantage in the construction of such a cellar is that the pit should not be too deep for it, since the embankment from the top, creates all the necessary conditions for the .Floors and walls are arranged in the same way as in the first case, but the operation of the staircase and corridor, which leads downwards, complicates the work.

• The first thing - does is, as in the first version, dig a foundation pit, but not so deep, as the walls will be raised above its .

• Then, from the side where it is planned to install the door, in the ground the steps leading to the surface are cut out. They are subsequently reinforced by one of the options mentioned above.
• The optimal solution is to reinforce the steps with a reinforcing mesh and pour concrete with a layer of 40 - 60 mm, by making the previously enclosing formwork. On the edge of the steps are embedded steel corners - they will allow the ladder to serve a longer period. If the steps are reliably reinforced, then they can serve as the foundation for the walls of the corridor leading up.

• When the walls are removed, you can go to the ceiling device. It can be folded in the form of an arch or have a flat surface running parallel to the direction of the steps of the ladder.
• The brick walls of this variant of the cellar rise higher above the excavation than in the first variant, so that the height of the ceiling is at least two meters.
• After raising the walls to the desired height, overlap is made from above. It should be strong enough to withstand a thick mound of soil. The walls are waterproofed in the same way as in the first version, but in this case it will do more and above, under the roof.
• The insulation of the ceiling and the screed of the roof of the cellar do not need to be done. Enough beams overlap, on which is laid flat or ordinary slate, on which and the embankment is made from the ground.

• The exit to the surface can be made in different ways, but in any case it must be a brick wall in which the door is installed. The upper and lower doors reliably will close the room from external cold or summer heat. Doors are usually made of thick boards, which in themselves are a natural insulation.

Such a cellar is sometimes made not in the excavated pit, but with the help of digging under the mountain. This method is more difficult in the sense that it is not as easy to remove soil from a closed space as from a pit.

By making a cellar in this way, as you deepen down the walls, you will mount the supports that will hold the arch. At the end of the dug, ventilation must be done. For its is drilled from above with a hole in which the pipe is installed.

The interior is usually finished with bricks or stones, which are laid on walls on a concrete or clay mortar. Raised walls can pass into the arched ceiling or overlap with massive, impregnated antiseptic with logs, which from above can be trimmed with boards.

But this way of building the cellar today is rarely used, since it is enough to be laborious , you need t t of the thorough calculation and, I must say, it is quite unsafe because of the risk of collapse of the arch in the digging process.

Installation of the finished structure for the cellar

Currently, industrial enterprises are producing ready-made enclosures of cellars from different materials, which exclude during their installation laborious processes of erection of walls and waterproofing. If you buy such insulated cellar, then there is no need for additional thermal insulation for it.

This structure can be installed on the street or even under the house. The entrance to the cellar is a hermetically sealed hatch, which means that the massive ladder does not have .

For an example, a cylindrical hull with in the form of - hemispheres is exactly this geometric shape that will withstand the external dynamic effect when is blown during its freezing.

The drums-cellar is compact enough: in diameter it is only 2, 2 m , the length of the room inside the case 3, 3 m , and the total volume of is 10.40 m³.In fact, it is a small cozy underground room with wall-mounted shelves and an vented by .

The walls of the barrel reliably are insulated and absolutely hermetic. They are multi-layered and consist of polyurethane foam and carbon steel, and the outer shell is made of fiberglass. The surfaces inside the barrel are primed and coated with enamel coating.

The ventilation system is made according to all the rules, and consists of two pipes - exhaust and supply air. They are located on the opposite side walls of the barrel and maintain the optimum humidity regime indoors.

Floors, shelving system and staircase are made of well-dried, lacquered wood that creates favorable atmosphere for storage of blanks, fruits or vegetables.

In addition, inside the cellar there is a lighting system using a reduced voltage of 12 in the , which is safe for operation at depth and in wet conditions.

The installation of a barrel is easy. Considering the size of the structure, under the , digs a pit. In it is arranged reliable the basis on which the capacity is lowered, and then is buried by a ground. If the cellar is made in the street, then above the hatch it is recommended to build a shed or at least a canopy with a roof, which in winter will not allow the snow to fall asleep.

The installation of such a cellar is usually performed by the manufacturer, specialists in this process take into account all the available nuances of the technology, therefore on the owner of the site falls out only the simplest work.

Video: installation of a ready-made insulated cellar

Which of the presented cellars, arranged on the street, to choose the site owner depends on the available opportunities and features of the territory. Some people prefer to do everything with their own hands from beginning to end, to be confident in every stage of the work done. Others trust the device of the cellar to qualified masters who know all the subtleties of the technological process. Still others opt for ready-made structures that will deliver minimal trouble during installation.