This article will show the process of installing a siding with a heater with your own hands. Step-by-step technology + video materials will help not only to trim, but also to warm the house with the help of a modern material called siding.
Familiar to all to the owners private country house painting - long and tedious process with the triples coming to an end, the building is completely erected, stood on its place the roof construction and roofing. It is necessary to solve the issue with the decoration of the facade, and, in parallel with this - the issues of thermal insulation of the walls. Another situation - the old covering of the facade walls( unimportantly - wooden, brick, plastered and etc. .) Comes in an unattractive appearance, or simply "already purring" to the owners of the house, to such an extent that it becomes obsessive to make novelty inthe appearance of their homes, at the same time increasing the comfort of living in it .
Installation of a siding with a heater with your own hands
And in that case will come to the aid with the technology of facing the facade with special panels, which are commonly called siding( from English "siding" , which means literally "outer skin").This approach allows you to quickly and qualitatively perform the decoration of unsightly walls, giving them an original neat appearance. The process itself - is not particularly complicated, is available in almost everyone. And if the hosts , taking care of its dwelling, mount the saudi ng ss with their hands with warming, then surely many will win even and in paying bills for heating the house.
In order to understand the issues of such thermal insulation and facade decoration, we will get acquainted with the siding itself, learn about its advantages, we will consider the optimum insulation for this type of work. And, of course, instructions will be given, both consistently, without hurrying independently to cope with this task.
Types of siding and their main characteristics
Article Contents
- 1 Types of siding and their main characteristics
- 1.1 Modern wood siding
- 1.2 siding wood composite
- 1.3 Metal siding
- 1.4 fiber cement siding
- 1.5 Plastic siding
- 1.6 Video: the nuances of choosing a siding with insulation for facade decoration
- 2 Thermal insulation and facade ventilation
- 2.1 Optimal insulation materials for siding
- 2.2 Video: insulation of the facade with mineral wool before facing the siding
- 2.3 Diffuse membrane
- 3 Warming and facing the facade with siding
- 3.1 Preparing the walls for insulation and cladding
- 3.2 How to fasten the elements of the crate and the insulation?
- 3.3 Siding installation on the insulated façade
The floor with the concept of "siding" hides panel elements intended for facing the facade of houses and auxiliary outbuildings, basement part, gables and .In addition to the purely decorative task, siding panels are very often an important part of the multilayer wall covering mounted for thermal and waterproofing, reducing the level penetrating into noise rooms, improving the performance characteristics of the entire structure.
At the dawn of its history, the siding was made exclusively of wood, however, is currently a variety of types of such exterior cladding - quite large. Let's get acquainted with the main representatives of this "family" of finishing materials.
Modern wooden siding
Since has been used for the external cladding of buildings, natural wood( remember the tradition of covering houses with or a board) remains still in demand. Of course, modern wooden panels differ significantly from the usual board that was used earlier.
Wooden siding wall
Wood used for the production of natural siding, usually coniferous, and necessarily passes the chi sp of special preparation, including antiseptic impregnation and heat treatment. This makes the material less vulnerable to the natural external influences of the most varied plan, increases its resistance to fire or rotting processes.
Despite the processing operations carried out with wood, it still remains the most environmentally friendly material used for exterior cladding of buildings. In addition, no other siding will ever compare with natural in its inherent "natural heat".
Wooden siding "under the log" - block house
Wooden siding is available in several variants. The most common is the "block house", which gives to the structure of a wooden log house laid out from logs or rounded log, "board", lined od on on another, or "lining" - tightfitted one to one profile boards .
Traditional form of wooden siding - "Christmas tree"
Virtually all types of modern wooden plating have in their design a special lock with spikes and grooves, allowing to mount the panels so that almost no remains slots requiring additional embedding. This, by the way, was always considered one of the drawbacks of the wooden cladding - crevices between boards had to be caulked, with this procedure required almost annual repetition. Currently, for the account of of well thought-out panel shape and special wood processing, significantly reducing the probability of its buckling, a similar drawback of the is reduced to a minimum.
Wooden siding is an excellent option, but still not without flaws:
- Even treated wood, all can not be attributed to incombustible materials.
- Walls, covered with natural siding, will require additional external protection - staining or varnishing. From time to time this processing will have to be repeated .
- The cost of quality natural siding - very high, not everyone can afford.
Wooden
siding. And on the exterior, and even tactile, to the touch, the surface of the wall, lined with panels of wood-polymer composite, it is quite difficult to distinguish from made by natural lining .This is not surprising, so the main material of manufacture are wood fibers.
Polymer organic resins are used as a binder. They give the material strength, the required plasticity, resistance to organic decomposition, to penetration of moisture, to the effects of fire.
Siding panel made of wood-polymer composite
Modern production technologies make it possible to produce from wood-polymer composite a huge variety of details of the most complex geometric shapes, colors, external texture. Extrusion and pressing methods are used, and at the output wall panels can be practically indistinguishable from the texture pattern, tactile sensation( roughness, heat) from natural wood.
This cladding material does not need special care - it does not require painting or varnishing. Color coating attached to is still at the production stage. In the future , in the first year ÷ two operations, there will be a small fading of the material( by about 2 ÷ 3 tones), but then the entire remaining period of use will not change the shade of the walls. By the way, the total service life, declared by the manufacturer, is quite impressive - at least 25 years.
Drawbacks of composite wooden siding:
- Such material is not afraid of water and heat exposure, but only if the is not combined. In a word, hot water vapor leads to the destruction of the structure of the composite, its deformation and , the .The situation is, of course, atypical for wall cladding, but to know about this all is equally necessary.
- Composite siding is produced only in the form of a "lining".Supporters of the "blockhouse" will have to or wait, or choose a siding from another material.
- Prices for such a composite material are very high, and so far it is difficult to predict their possible decline.
Metal siding
The popularity of metal facade cladding among private developers is not too high - this siding is more often used for finishing public buildings, trade and socially significant structures, industrial enterprises, offices and , . Nevertheless, , there are supporters of this type of finishing and among the owners of country houses.
Packing of metal siding panels
Speaking about that metal siding, the manufacturer does not mean at all, that will be a necessarily shiny surface. No, usually such panels have a multilayer structure, the metal in which plays the role of rigid base, which retains the form of the cladding. The traditional configuration is for "block house", for "boarding" or for "shipboard", although other forms of are seen, like simplified( smooth surface), and more complex - relief.
The external appearance of such a metal siding gives the a decorative and protective coating made of polymer dyes and films. It can be monochrome in a variety of shades, with a pattern that reproduces the structure of a natural tree. Sometimes used siding, on the contrary, emphasizing the material of its manufacture - with a pronounced metallic luster, up to the mirror.
Dimensions of metal siding - "house block"
Most often, galvanized steel is used for making such finishing panels. More expensive options - using non-ferrous metals - aluminum, zinc. Advantages of metal lining - durability( with high-quality anti-corrosion treatment), ease of installation, incombustibility, mechanical strength( although with inaccurate transportation of material or in case of a point impact on the already lined surface completely it completely can deform).
Disadvantages of metal siding:
- Not all types of exterior coatings are longevous. With using inexpensive material types, active fading of surfaces is not excluded, especially on the sunny sides of the house.
- Metal has a high thermal conductivity. Such a coating will be strongly heated in the sun in the summer, and vice versa, cool in frosty weather. This will require additional measures for the thermal insulation of the building.
- The material not only does not suppress noise, but can still and become a resonator, greatly enhancing the passage of sound waves.
- Damaged , scratched sheet steel siding can start corrode .
Fiber cement siding
More one modern finishing material for facade cladding - siding on fibro-cement basis. The basic composition for their manufacture includes high-quality portland-cement and reinforcing fibers - synthetic ( glass-plastic or polymeric) or natural( cellulose).
Very reliable but expensive and heavy fiber cement cement siding
Such a mixture casts and extrudes finishing panels that perfectly show themselves in the ventilated facade system, giving the buildings, in addition to the aesthetic appearance, more and additional insulating and soundproof qualities.
Do not think that fibrocement panels - it's something gray and boring, the type of ordinary plaster. Modern methods of production and decoration will allow the production of panels of a wide variety of textures and colors. It can be perfectly smooth surfaces with a homogeneous or multicolored paint, including interesting quartz impregnations. Popular siding panels are widely used, which can not be distinguished from a real tree literally from two steps - the texture and shade of natural wood is so faithfully and faithfully transmitted. The façade can be finished with cement-based panels "for baked brick" or "for wild crushed stone" - in a word, the possibilities here are very large.
Literally from two steps you will not distinguish from a natural tree!
The material is advantageously distinguished by its strength, absolute incombustibility, abrasion resistance, high environmental friendliness, undemanding maintenance( in fact, all dirt is easily washed off with water jet from the hose or even just during rain).
Disadvantages - quite a lot of weight, complicating the delivery, unloading of the material and requiring, in addition, the reinforced crate for panel mounting. Because of this, to carry out installation of this cladding alone will be very difficult.
The second "minus" limiting the wide application of a fiber-cement siding with all its advantages is a high price. So, the square meter of quality panels of well-known brands costs at least 1500 rubles, and with a modern hydrophilic-ceramic or photoceramic coating - and that is more expensive.
Plastic siding
Plastic siding is the champion for the of the bullet. More than half of the sales of all facade panels from any materials falls exactly on this category.
Polymer siding is the champion in popularity!
The most common base material is polyvinyl chloride( PVC) - a polymer with good performance. However, often "to help" P BH pr go, other polymers.
- For example, for the production of panels of low and medium price range, the conventional technology of mono-extrusion is used. One polymer( PVC) is used, the siding is homogenous throughout its thickness.
- More expensive varieties are produced on lines coextrusion. In this case, PVC takes up to 80 percent of the total volume panels - it gives its shape and required stiffness , especially in the chateau part. But the remaining 20 percent is an acrylic outer layer, which plays both a protective and decorative role. Thanks to acrylic coating, the basic performance characteristics of the liner sharply increase, it becomes more durable( without losing its decorative qualities).
The two-layered structure of the siding made by the co-extrusion technology
Besides the quite acceptable for most owners houses prices, PVC siding is distinguished by a whole list of other advantages:
- High-quality two-layer sidi ng pr and a thickness of only 1,1 - 1,3 mm differs good strength, does not scratch, does not chip, does not crack.
- Panels - very light, which greatly simplifies the work with them during the installation.
- Polymers used for siding refer to materials that do not support combustion. However, , in a fairly wide temperature range( from minus 50 to plus 80 degrees), the panels do not lose their qualities and given geometric shapes.
- PVC and acrylic coating - materials are safe from the ecological point of view. They are not subject to disintegration into components that could pose a threat to the environment or human health.
- Polymers are not susceptible to rotting, soaking, changing the configuration under the influence of water - the panels do not crumple from drying out and do not swell from excess moisture.
- The material is absolutely "uninteresting" for various forms of biological life - fungi, molds, insects, rodents and , .
- Care for the facade is turned into a simple exercise that does not require much effort - the siding is easy to clean with water from the hose.
- The variety of models according to their external configuration( "lining", " herringbone ", "shipboard", "block house", "shingle", various types of "brickwork" or "natural stone") and according to the coloring will satisfy,probably, the most demanding buyers.
And, finally, one of the main advantages of - installation of vinyl siding is so simple and intuitive that with such a task, with due diligence and following technological recommendations, any average owner of his own house should cope.
As a rule, the leading producers of vinyl siding always think over everything to the smallest detail, and accompany their products with an almost complete set of various additional elements and profiles for every possible installation.
Here, for example, how can the kit look like for and
?
Siding panels and a variety of profile elements for them
1 - lath for horizontal fastening siding panels .As the guides can be used wooden beams or galvanized metal profiles.
2 - a shed for securing the siding in an upright position( for example, on a pediment).
3 - siding panels.
4 - siding panels for vertical arrangement.
5 - starting rake( profile).Most often it is with the that begins the installation of the cladding.
6 - trim for finishing window and door openings .
7 - J-profiles for the design of the transitions from wall panels to windows, niches, endings of the plane.
8 - profile rulers for finishing the joints of planes in the inner corners.
9 - the end covers cover the finished siding plane on top.
10 - F-profiles , most often used in finishing the transition from the wall structure to roofing
11 - profile element nt for and facing the external corners of the building.
12 - chamfer, element nt for and lining of the end part of the roof eaves.
13 - spotlights - for filing the roof eaves of the roof from the bottom. Can be continuous and perforated - for free passage of air ventilation.
The siding overview can be ended by the fact that there is still and its socle version. Material of the version can be any of the listed( except for natural wood).These panels are usually thicker, more massive, since in the basement part of the wall there is a much higher probability of mechanical shocks. In addition, such a siding should differ increased resistance and to other external influences - it often gets moisture and dirt from the ground during the rains, snow drifts, ice and .
Some samples of
Typically, these panels are produced in decorative design "under the stone" or "under the brickwork", accompanied by angular profile elements. Often in the set you can purchase and socle ebb - in tone to the socle siding.
Video: the nuances of choosing a siding with insulation for finishing facade
Thermal insulation and ventilation of the facade
It's probably unreasonable to tie the house with a siding "just like that," just to improve the appearance. Whatever the wall material, for the vast majority of Russian regions,our climate, always remains an urgent problem of additional warming. And it is siding that opens up in this issue very great opportunities - under with a finish as can not be better, the thermal insulation layer hides.
The lining of the house with a siding will be reasonably combined with the insulation of the facade
. And that the insulated walls are not dampened by the , the very clearly reacted to the seasonal or weather changes in the humidity,.The point is that between the outer lining( in our case - the siding) and the layer of insulation there was a small gap, through which the natural circulation of air will be carried out.
Schematically it can be represented as follows:
Schematic diagram of the ventilated facade
1 - facade wall , which is to be insulated with the decorative coating.
2 - elements of the subsystem( crate ), fixed on the wall( racks, hangers, guides and , .).It is on this that the decorative boards of the will be fastened, in our case - siding.
3 - layer of thermal insulation material.
4 - a special membrane that provides wind protection and has waterproofing qualities, but at the same time - does not interfere with the free passage of steam from inside the building.
5 - facade lining siding or other panels.
The blue arrows show the natural circulation of air in a specially spaced gap between the membrane and the cladding panels. This movement ensures the constructed ventilation of this space, including - with the outward removal of the layer of water vapor insulation coming out through the walls. As a result, the porous insulation material never gets wet, does not get damp, does not get wet, and means , it does not suffer from temperature changes, and it does not lose its qualities.
Which heaters are optimal for this type of thermally insulated ventilated facade?
Optimal insulation materials for
siding. First, one important thing must be made at once: deep is wrong with by those owners of houses who neglect the issues of insulation of the external walls of the building. Especially this issue should be ignored if it is planned to siding the facade with siding - based on aesthetic considerations.
No matter how hard you try, there will be emptiness between the wall and the cladding. They will not give anything for the heat in the house, but they can serve as an camera, where the will constantly accumulate dampness. And this means that there will be practically paradise conditions for the development of various manifestations of biological activity - the appearance of mold, moss, fungal colonies, for insects , with which the can be unpleasant, but also dangerous enough.
In addition, the dampening walls will never be able to compete in durability with those that are tucked in an optimal condition - erosion, destruction of stone( concrete, brick and midsized .) Or wood structure is inevitable. And the dew point will surely be in the wall thickness, which means that temperature fluctuations with a wide amplitude will lead to freezing of the material, and the is the correct way of the to rapid destruction.
Heater will take this point outward, into the thickness of the thermal insulation material. Condensed moisture will find its way out through the ventilation gap.
It is possible to warm these reasons not only from those houses in which people live all year round. Even a summer cottage, becoming a permanent residence for a family only in the summer, a good owner is sure to thermoinsulated .This is the safety of the building itself, about the than the already mentioned, and the comfortable coolness in the house in the summer heat - thermal insulation helps to cope with the elevated temperatures no worse than with the lowered ones.
What are the properties of a quality heater ?
- It must have a low thermal conductivity of . The optimal is the range of the order of 0.030 ÷ 0.045 W / m × K °.
- The heat sink must hold the mold well, that is, it has a certain rigidity , which allows the to reliably hold the on the surface of the facade.
- High hygroscopicity of thermal insulation materials is not welcomed - they should minimize water absorption.
- Undoubtedly, for any residential house in the forefront of requirements - the environmental safety of the material, its incombustibility( or extremely low combustibility), chemical and physical resistance to decomposition - from the influence of temperature, humidity, any reagents.
- It should not serve as a breeding ground for any form of life.
What materials for thermal insulation apply?
- There are proponents of insulation with EPS boards, but still they are not the best option for siding - they are more likely to be used if the wall is intended to be covered with decorative plaster.(Such a wall warming system is often referred to as " wet facade").
Thermal insulation scheme "wet facade"
And still one minus - yet styrofoam( especially conventional, not extruded) can not be classified as fireproof materials.
- Excellent results show polyurethane foam, which spray on the walls in the right amount. This heater has the highest insulating characteristics, high resistance to most external influences, excellent adhesion to any surfaces.
House after application of
foamed polyurethane layer The main drawbacks are the material is not cheap and requires not only for special wall spraying equipment, but for and a lot of experience in this work. Independently to conduct such insulation - the task is hardly feasible.
- Very similar in appearance is the technology of applying eco-wool .True, the component composition of the material is completely different - here, specially, specially processed cellulose fiber is used most often.
The process of evaporation of ecowools
Disadvantages( with a huge number of advantages) all the same - expensive as the material itself, and carrying out assembly work that requires special equipment.
Traditionally, for thermal insulation of ventilated facades, mineral basalt cotton wool is used. This material combines both excellent insulating properties, and ecological cleanness, the safety of for human ( it should not be confused with glass wool - there approaches are somewhat different).With mineral wool it is very convenient to work, as it combines both lightness, and plasticity, and the necessary spatial rigidity .
What kind of mineral wool is better to choose. Take the for the courage to recommend several brands of this material - the products of these firms are guaranteed to be of the highest quality:
| Miniature | Main advantages | Form | Average price per 1 cubic meter |
|---|---|---|---|
 | PAROC eXtra is a universal purpose heater. The coefficient of thermal conductivity is not more than 0.036 W / m × K °.Moisture absorption - no more than 1% of the volume. Density - 27 kg / m³ | plates 600 × 1200 mm, thickness from 50 to 100 mm. | 1950 - 2100 rub |
 | Rockwool Light Batts is a heavier thermal insulator with similar insulating qualities. The density is about 37 kg / m³.Hygroscopicity - up to 1,5% | plates 600 × 1000 mm, thickness 50 or 100 mm | 1800 RUB |
 | ISOROC ISOLATE L - - The coefficient of thermal conductivity is not more than 0.038 W / m × K °.Moisture absorption - 1 ÷ 2% of the volume. Density - 40 kg / m³ | plates 600 × 1000 mm, thickness 50 or 100 mm | 1400 rub |
 | ISOVER Frame-P37 is the lightest of the listed insulating glass-fiber-based insulators. Safe in work. The density is only 14 kg / m³, while the coefficient of thermal conductivity is 0.037 W / m × K °. | plates 1170 × 610 mm, thickness 50 or 100 mm. | 1280 rub |
Video: insulation of the facade with mineral wool before facing siding
Diffuse membrane
Very often in the articles telling about conducting insulation work on the facades or on the roof, the authors mention some "vapor barrier film".Apparently, the error once crept in one of the authors, and continues to replicate.
If we are talking about the creation of ventilated insulation, that is, a ventilated facade or roof, the then neither the nor the "vapor isolation" can be discussed. The task is diametrically opposite: the coating should provide an impermeability to the wind and open moisture - to the side "from the atmosphere → inside", but simultaneously freely pass water vapor in the opposite direction, from the heater( where by all rules the "dew-point" should be formed) into the atmosphere.
This property is ensured by the special structure of the material of the diffuse membrane. shows fragment very popular with Isospan membrane builders - the porous texture of on its surface is clearly visible. By the way, in the right corner of the photo - fragment of the packaging label, on which intelligently pictured its basic operational capabilities. So, it does not pass water, protects the insulation and the construction of the walls from the wind, but for steam it does not become an obstacle - it freely evaporates into the atmosphere.
The figure shows the invoice and the packing label of the diffuse membrane
. Pay attention to the correct name - waterproofing, windproof, . A PARALLELED membrane, , but neither is as non-vapor-insulating.
These membranes are usually manufactured and sold in rolls with a width of 1500 mm, up to length of 100 m .The price, depending on the brand, ranges from 40 to 120 rubles per running meter. Not cheap , but without it - nothing at all.
"Bets" in matters of insulation of the facade and roof are always high, and get better quality material. Thus, the diffuse membranes of the companies Isospan , Delta , Juta , Tyvek are of perfect repute.
Membranes, which are leaders in the quality and popularity of
And if you find in any article a recommendation that when insulating a facade or a roof in order to save, instead of a diffuse membrane on the outside of the thermal insulation layer, you can use the usual polyethylene film, you can safely close this page, as the author who wrote this, simply does not represent the "physics" of this process. Indeed, the vapor-proof polyethylene in a very short time will simply "kill" the insulation, and, is possible, and even worse - the dampness actively spreads to the wall material.
Insulation and facade cladding with siding
We have thoroughly studied the questions, from which the high-quality facade cladding with its insulation is made. Now we need to consider how this is done.
So, in order to achieve the set goal, we need to mount a combined system on the facade walls of the , which will include a layer of insulation with an external film protection, and a properly oriented frame for, in fact, facing the walls with siding.
Horizontal siding - vertical paneling, and vice versa
For orienting the guide frames, it is mentioned immediately, in order not to return to this issue in the future. Most often, PVC siding on the walls is horizontal( this, on large account , due to and the design of its locks).Therefore, the outer guides should be perpendicular, that is, vertically. In those places where it is customary to install a vertical siding( , for example, a roof gable, the direction of the is changed.)
The step of setting the guides is 600 mm, which is excellent for most insulating mats and
boards. The step between the guide rails is also maintainedthe same - 600 mm, which, by the way, can be explained very simply - this distance allows the siding to be confident, without deflections, to stick to the frame, and provides maximum convenience when installing the insulation. Mineral wool table - for all varieties, even for different lengths, the width of the mat is kept at 600 mm - this elastic plate will very tightly fit between the guides
The easiest way to "heat" the facade and create a frame for mounting the siding So, you can simply cover the entire facade with a foamed foam insulation such as " Penofol "( available up to a thickness of 20 mm), and directly on top of it, fix on the facade the breshetki for siding.
Thermal insulation with roll foam foil for our conditions will clearly not be enough
Frankly, such a technology for use on a private house - does not stand up to any criticism. Probably not in Russia, the region where such pseudo-warming would solve the issue of high-quality thermal insulation of the facade.
Please pay attention to the table - it shows the recommended thickness of the insulation, calculated not even for the harshest conditions of our country - for the middle band. As the insulation, we mean mineral cotton wool , the type that was listed in the table above.
| Type of front wall of insulated building | Minimum thickness of thermal insulation layer( mineral basalt wool) |
|---|---|
| Walls are monolithic or prefabricated concrete, 230 mm thick and over. | 150 mm |
| Walls laid out of red fired, silicate, including hollow bricks with a total thickness of 510 mm | 100 mm |
| Conifer wall, at least 150 mm | 100 mm |
| Coniferous wall, not cross-sectionless than 200 mm | 50 mm |
So, nowhere to go, it is necessary to take measures to secure a sufficiently thick layer of thermal insulation on the facade, and, in addition, to create a reliable basis for mounting the siding cladding.
Preparation of walls for insulation and lining
One of the most important advantages of the technology of facing of buildings with siding is a real opportunity to hide the existing "geometry defects" built by .And so d the main objectives of this phase of work will be: bringing wall surfaces to proper for insulation and cladding view, making measurements to determine the possible curvature, level differences caused by the shrinkage of the old building or resulting from the defects committed by builders.
Those disadvantages, which can interfere with normal facing, but amenable to quick fix on the spot, are immediately eliminated. So, you can knock down the projections that break the straight line, repair the weak points on the facade, cleaning the unstable or exfoliated area, applying a "patch" repair structure or replacing the rotten woodwork. If the renovation of the old wooden house is planned, then it is necessary to conduct the treatment of the walls with antiseptic compounds.
To prevent the installation of the roofing , the insulation, the cladding, it is necessary to clean the walls of the possible interference - climbing plants, closely spaced trees and bushes of , unnecessary protruding elements, nails, pins and , .Removing the trim from the windows and doors, dismantling drainage gutter pipe.
Conducting measurements and transferring results to the plan will give an opportunity to determine the design of the guide subsystem - at what distance will the walls from the walls be in the most "critical" glasses, given that in "normal" places this distance should ensure the installation of a thermal barrier of the required thickness.
The design of the subsystem should ensure the location of the heater of the desired thickness and the alignment of possible geometric defects of the facade
The result should be a scheme for installing the frame, with the dimensions in the currents of the maximum and minimum removal of the level of the lining from the wall. The step of installing the guides and their orientation in space has already been prepared above. It can only be noted that the edge guides always have to fit tightly to the outer and inner corners, forming in the way , the "platforms" for installing the profile elements. In addition, , regardless of the installation step, the racks are necessarily placed along the outside of the window and door frame.
Approximate scheme of the roofing on the building
To give advice on fixing the elements of the battens to the walls - probably not worth it. Each landlord is well aware of the features of the walls of his dwelling, and will figure out which types of fastening elements will be most suitable. The main thing is that the reliability of the is provided for the suspension of the rails, but at the same time the functional integrity of the facade is not violated. Usually the fixing points on the same rail are placed in steps of 600 mm too - so it will be easier not to be mistaken.
How to to how to replenish and insulation elements?
There are several ways to install the crate with a thermal insulation layer.
1. The simplest is when the directing subsystems are fastened directly to the to the wall of the facade. As the guides in the figure, wooden bars are shown, although metal galvanized profiles can also be used.
The easiest way to insulate
- So, the guides are exposed vertically with the desired pitch( 600 mm).Their thickness corresponds t t of the required thickness of the insulating layer, and the mineral wool mats excellently enter these "" holes. For reliability the heater is attached to the wall using dowels - "fungi "
- After that, the entire surface is tightened by the - membrane in the horizontal direction, successively , starting from of the lower part of the wall. Overlap between the strips is left at least 150 - 200 mm.
- The membrane is temporarily fastened to the guide brackets with a stapler, and then finally fixed by filling on wooden boards with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm - this creates t from the air gap necessary for the ventilated facade system.
- The on on the control rails become the basis for mounting siding panels.
The façade is ready for cladding. The arrow shows the installed starting profile
In than the main disadvantage of this method of insulation and installation of the crate ?The main thing is that the guides that adjoin the wall involuntarily leave narrow uninsulated areas - "cold bridges".It would seem - a trifle, but the total heat loss under such a scheme - are quite high.
2. To fix the situation will help another approach to solving the problem.
Two-layer thermal insulation with cross crate
- Two-layer crate is made. The first tier is located directly on the wall, but its direction - is horizontal. Between them fit heat insulation mats.
- The second crate is mounted - with the guides installed vertically, as required for the finish lining. These racks, in addition, reliably will press the insulation mats of the first layer.
- Further - all as in the first variant: laying of a heater, then fixing the membrane with slats - and the facade is ready for mounting siding facing.
- Of course, in this case the required thickness of the insulation is divided into two layers. For example, if you need 150 m m m mineral wool, then closer to the wall, you can lay mats in 100 mm, and make the outer layer of 50 mm.
- When planning the installation of the subsystem by tiers, it is obligatory that the insulation mats should lie " in the bandage ", completely covering all the cracks. As a result, the "cold bridges" are reduced only to the points of intersection of the guides.
3. The following method that allows not only to reduce the "cold bridges" to almost zero, but still and save a lot on lumber.
Mounting of the heater and guides using direct suspension
- To the front wall( position 1), straight U-shaped suspensions are attached( item 2).The step of their installation corresponds to the installation step of the crate , that is, horizontal( L) and vertical( H) is kept 600 mm. On the vertical, the points of their installation are necessarily marked by a plumb line, so that a perfectly straight line is obtained.
Dimensions of direct suspension
- The side shelves of the hangers are bent to a position strictly perpendicular to the wall.
- Then the insulation mats of mineral wool( item 3) are "pierced" onto the protruding suspensions. In mats it will be necessary to make sharp cuts for the passing brackets with a sharp construction knife. The additional insulation is fixed to the wall with dowels - "fungi".
- Next, the diaphragm is tightened( item 4) - neat slots for the brackets are also made in the right places.
- In the hangers, guide rails( item 5), section 60 × 30 or 60 × 40 mm, are inserted. They are pressed against the insulation layer as tightly as possible and fixed in the suspensions with self-tapping screws( key 6).So way , it turns out the finished crate , which reliably keeps on the wall surface a heater and vapor-permeable windproof membrane, becomes the basis for securing the siding( 7) with the necessary clearance for natural air circulation under the skin.
- The protruding brackets can be simply bent to the sides so that they do not interfere with the installation and do not come into contact with the plane of the siding from the inside.
Instead of wooden rails it is possible to use galvanized ceiling profile PP - 60 × 27.It is mounted with a central shelf outward.
4. If you want to install a thick layer of insulation, the length of the standard direct suspension may not be enough. No problem, it is possible to make the brackets of the required length and independently, taking as the initial workpiece, for example, the metal galvanized profile.
The same, but using self-made brackets
Long brackets will allow the thick thermo insulator, or to be placed in two layers, for example in longitudinal and transverse directions, to exclude even the smallest slots.
Otherwise, this method does not differ from the previous one. The
is ready , which is already laid on top of the heating layer and the membrane, can be reinforced with horizontal bridges if necessary, so that the design becomes reliable and a stable mounting base for siding lining
Siding installation on insulated facade
Nuances of mounting siding cladding depend primarily on the characteristics of a particular type of material. In any case, , when buying even a very small batch of siding, the seller in a good store must attach the instruction for carrying out the self-assembly of the purchased model. Differences in some receptions of stacking panels, additional profiles and finishing elements can be quite significant.
Temmer no less, the general principle is maintained. is mounted from the bottom up , starting from exactly horizontally located starting profile, from the corner of the building. Panels and profile elements are fastened with nails, screws or brackets to the rail guides, with the required clearance maintained, so that the -defined "degree of freedom" for temperature expansion remains to the long parts.
Very detailed, literally to the smallest detail, the process of mounting the siding on all sections of the facade of the house is painted in a special publication of our portal. Repeating this hardly makes sense, but here's to remind novice masters of the typical mistakes made by newcomers, it is necessary:
| Typical installation errors | Correct mounting techniques | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Graphic miniature | Description | Graphic miniature | Description |
 | Panels are connected with excessive force, "interference", which leads to deformation of the locking part and can give a skew of parallel strips that will be visible visually |  | the panels must be inserted by the locking part one from the other from the bottom upwards without excessive force, until the |
 | click. The clamping or screwing of the fastening elements is carried out directly through the topand not through the specially designed lock parts with holes. Not aesthetically pleasing, and leads to a rapid destruction of the siding, to free penetration into the atmospheric moisture. |  | Not all nails and screws are suitable for installation. Fasteners should have a diameter of 3 mm( 3.2 mm), while the width of the cap should be at least 8 mm. Length - so that it was sufficient for reliable fastening, with the expectation that, in addition to the specified expansion gap, the nail( self-tapping) completely "disappeared" in the guide, not resting against the wall of the house. |
 | The fixture is held in its original position, but the nails are screwed in( against the stop), without leaving a gap and the thermal linear oscillations of the |  | material, the nail is jammed exactly at right angles, so that the lumen from the cap to the panel remains about 1 mm. |
 | The other extreme is that the fastening screw moves too far away from the lock part of the panel. Fastening is unstable, the coating can be "rinsed" on the crate, for example, in strong wind |  | Similar requirements are for self-tapping screws( they are turned back after screwing in to achieve the required clearance). |
 | Screws or nails are installed not perpendicular to the curtain rail. It can result in buckling, skewing or tearing of the lock part and unstable position of the panel. |  | You can use staples. The stapler will need to be adjusted so that the requirement of 1 mm clearance is retained in this case. |
 | Deformation of the fastening element. Invalid error requiring mandatory replacement. The panel loses the necessary mobility, the locking connection of two adjacent siding strips is broken or becomes extremely difficult. | - | - |
 | The location of the fasteners in the slots provided for it completely excludes the necessary mobility of the panel or the profile element |  | . With vertical arrangement of the panels and profiles, all fasteners, except for the upper nail( samorez), are located in the center of the slotted holes of the lock part. |
 | The same error - with the horizontal arrangement of the |  | panel. If this arrangement is horizontal( the position of the nail or the samre is exactly in the center of the slit-shaped hole), it applies to all the |
fasteners without exception. If you follow all the recommendations of experienced masters, strictly adhere to the technological receptions of installed by the manufacturer, then the installation of the siding itself should not become an insoluble problem for the beginner. It is much more difficult, as it seems, to fully implement all the preparatory measures - to choose the right material, to perform high-quality insulation of the house in compliance with all the nuances for the organization of facade ventilation, to mount the reliable subsystem for fixing the panels. Then the process of facing will pass quickly and easily, and the house will receive excellent protection and presentable appearance for many years forward .
Video: installation instructions for wall and base siding with insulation
