Veranda with own hands

The veranda allows you to advantageously expand the useful space of an apartment building. In a correctly erected and well-equipped outbuilding, you can comfortably spend time in both warm and cold seasons.

Read the recommendations for choosing building materials, understand the technology, and you can independently build a reliable, beautiful and durable annex.

Planning recommendations

annexe is best to build in such a way that it covers the front door to the main house. Therefore, you will not be able to build a veranda from any desired side of a ready-made main building. Otherwise, the veranda will be torn from the main building and you will have to enter it through the street.

Dimensions of the extension are selected individually. For a family of 3-6 people enough verandas 3x4 m. It is also important to consider the general view from the street. For example, if you live in a large two- or even three-story house, and the veranda is very small, the overall architectural ensemble will turn out to be inharmonious. To compact houses, you can safely build verandas wide in the wall of the main building - it looks great.

Important note! Regardless of the chosen dimensions and in general the features of the extension, its erection must be preliminary legalized. To do this, you must have a project in your hands. You can do it yourself, find it in open sources, or order it from a specialized company.

With the ready project go to the local architectural department. The staff of the department will study your project, make the necessary corrections and issue a permit. Please note that it takes about 2-3 months to review and approve the project on average, so it's best to deal with this issue in winter, before the construction season starts.

Layout of the construction site

Begin preparation of our construction site.

The first step. Shoot around the perimeter of the future construction of about 150 mm of the upper layer of soil and transport it to flower gardens, garden or other place.

The second step. Align the resulting groove.

The third step. Perform markup. First, focusing on the project, drive metal or wooden pins at the corners of the site, then similarly drive in the intermediate pegs every 1-1.5 m, and then pull the rope between the pins. According to it, we will be guided in the process of arrangement of the foundation.

We make the foundation

Most often the verandas are built on the bases of columnar or tape type. The depth of support is assumed equal to the depth of the basement of the main house. Linking the main support to the foundation of the extension is strongly discouraged.these designs will have a very different weight. Consequently, the degree of their shrinkage will also differ. To the heavy house did not pull a relatively light extension, the latter should be erected on a separate foundation. For this we leave between the foundations of approximately 3-4-centimeter gap.

Important point! When choosing the type of foundation, take into account, first of all, the features of the soil in your region and the total mass of the veranda. For the construction of heavy structures on ragged soils, monolithic tape bases are best suited. Lightweight structures, for example, made of wood, can be built on pillars.

Belt base

The base of the tape type is optimally suited for the further construction of verandas from building blocks or bricks on it. The thickness of the base, as already noted, can be kept equal to the thickness of the foundation of the house. If this is a new building, keep the thickness at the level of 70-80 cm.

The first step. By digging a trench along the perimeter of the extension walls.

The second step. Align the bottom and walls of the trench, we expose the formwork from wooden boards or boards to the height of the future concrete support.

The third step. Consistently fall asleep the bottom of the trench with a 10-centimeter layer of sand and the same layer of gravel with the obligatory tamping of each filling ball.

The fourth step. We lay the reinforcing mesh of 10-12-millimeter rods. The recommended size of the grid cells is 10x10 cm. So the base will be as strong as possible.

The fifth step. Fill the concrete, prepared from a portion of cement, three portions of sand, 4-5 servings of gravel and water.

Carefully level the fill and leave it to dry and gain strength for 3-4 weeks. In the heat every day we spill concrete to prevent its cracking.

Column base

For column or polycarbonate veranda, columnar base is perfect. Pits for poles are recommended to be made with a depth of 80-110 cm. If the veranda is small( up to 3x4 m), it will be sufficient to install supports in the corners. However, professional builders recommend installing intermediate racks at any size of the veranda. The distance between the supports can be kept within 0,8-1 m.

The first step. A swarm of pits in places of future pouring of pillars. The easiest way to do this is with a drill.

The second step. Fall off the bottom of each cavity with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. In addition it is recommended to pour about 10 cm of gravel. Each layer is rammed.

The third step. Fill the concrete to the ground level and let it freeze.

Fourth step. Ready concrete supports are smeared with bitumen.

The fifth step. We fill with sand gaps between the ground and the supports.

The sixth step. We erect the elevated part of the pillars made of bricks. The height is made equal to the height of the basement of the main house.

We make the rough floor

After the construction of the foundation, it is recommended to deal with the construction of the rough floor. Pre-coat the support with a ruberoid in two layers.

The floor can be wooden and concrete. For example, in a wooden verandah from a wooden beam, the wooden floor is more appropriate. In the addition of the same brick is best fit concrete pouring.

The wooden rough floor is made as follows:

• we fix on the foundation the beam of the lower strapping. We use a suitable fastener, for example, an anchor. To join directly the beams, we pre-make the samples in the places of their joints and additionally fasten the galvanized nails;
• to the bottom piping we attach wooden logs. The step is maintained at a level of 50 cm - so the floor does not exactly fail. We use the connection variant described above;
• fall asleep between the lags of the claydite;
• make a flooring of unedged board or plywood thickness of about 50 mm. The elements of the flooring are fixed to the logs with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

Concrete screed as follows:

• fall asleep base 10-centimeter layer of sand;
• from above pour a layer of expanded clay;
• we lay the reinforcing mesh. For a floor of a veranda there will be enough a grid from rods in diameter of 6-8 mm with cells 25х25 sm;
• pour concrete.

The recommended thickness of the screed on the veranda is from 30-50 mm. For more convenience and accuracy of filling we can pre-set the beacons every 2-4 m.

Important! The screed should be as level as possible. We carry out the work with the obligatory use of the level.

Building a wooden veranda

The main properties of the material

The tree is one of the most popular and ancient building materials. Even after the appearance on the market of all kinds of blocks and other budgetary and simple elements in the arrangement, the wood practically did not surrender.

With the construction of a simple frame wooden veranda, almost everyone can cope. It is only necessary to properly mount the frame racks and sew them with shields, lining or other suitable material.

The undeniable advantage of wood is its environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance and relatively low weight. The latter property allows you to abandon the arrangement of expensive and difficult to build foundations.

The main drawback of the wooden veranda is its fire hazard - the installation of a barbecue in a similar annexe or in the immediate vicinity of it is a very important undertaking, requiring consideration of many nuances and trifles. Therefore, it is better to take the source of fire somewhere far away from the wooden veranda.

Another significant disadvantage of wood is its poor tolerance of high humidity, due to which the material needs serious pretreatment with special antiseptic preparations. Without such preparation, the wood will very quickly rot.

The order of construction

For the construction of a frame we use a wooden beam of high quality with a section of 100x100 mm. We already have the lower strapping and the rough floor, so we work further, following the instructions below.

The first step. Cut in the beam of the lower strapping grooves to install vertical supports. We sustain a half-meter step.

The second step. We install vertical racks. To fasten the elements of the frame we use brackets and screws or nails.

Important! The roof of our veranda, as noted, will be a sloping one-slope. Therefore, the vertical bar, set at the bottom point of the ramp, is 50 cm below the opposite racks.

Third step. We mount the bar of the upper strapping. On the higher racks, there will be no questions - we perform the connections in exactly the same way as in the previous stages.

When assembling the strapping of lower supports, we do the following: first we connect the poles longitudinally with a bar of strapping, and then fix the crossbeams connecting the high and low racks at the height of the low racks. With the high pillars of the crossbar we fasten by means of previously created samples and nails.

The fourth step is .The top harness is ready. The resulting slope will allow us to lay the rafters for the roof. In addition, we nail the girder-run near the roof slope. For fixing the beam with all supports we use anchor bolts. For greater reliability it is recommended to fasten the truss rail with transverse boards or beams, if possible and necessary( we are guided by the weight of the future roofing material).To them we will attach racks and struts for greater strength of the rafter system.

The fifth step. We mount rafters in 50 cm increments. To do this, we use a wooden beam measuring 100x200 mm. We connect the construction elements by any of the methods considered earlier.

Sixth step. We sew the frame. For interior trim, the lining is perfect, for outdoor siding or other material. Between the materials of the outer and inner skin lay layers of hydro and thermal insulation. We fix the film to the frame. The position of the heater is fixed by cross rails. To them also the material of finish finishing is fixed. At the plating we do not forget to leave openings for windows and doors.

Brick verandas

Basic information about the building material

The bricks are excellent for erecting the capital verandas. The construction of this material will be cool in the summer and, provided that the insulation is correctly made, it is warm in winter. Brick laying is durable, fireproof and unpretentious in maintenance.

The main drawback of brick construction - a lot of weight. Such structures are erected exclusively on monolithic grounds, which does not have the best effect on the total cost of construction.

The procedure for erecting the verandas

The foundation is ready and waterproofed, the screed is flooded, the foundation is level and no additional preparatory measures are required. We proceed to laying the walls.

Preliminarily choose the appropriate type of masonry. The simplest options, perfectly suited for self-construction of the veranda, are as follows:

• spoon laying. The total thickness of the wall is 120 mm;
• bunching. Wall thickness - 250 mm;
• masonry. Allows you to get a wall thickness of 380 mm.

The first step. We attach on two opposite ends of the basement with the screed of the cord-pier. It must pass along the edge of the base.

The second step. We expose the corner bricks on the cord, and after filling the space between them in accordance with the chosen method of masonry. For fastening of building elements we use a standard cement mortar.

The third step. We check the smoothness of the first row and similarly lay the walls to the desired height, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.

Important! The roof of the veranda will be inclined, so the wall that falls on the bottom of the ramp, as well as the side walls adjacent to it, is made a number lower than the wall supporting the top of the roof.

After laying out the last row of walls, we equip the armopoias. To do this, we fasten the formwork on the top surface of the walls to a height of about 70 mm on each wall, expose anchor bolts at the corners, lay reinforcing bars and pour concrete.

Let the concrete harden, and then fasten to the anchor bolts a strap from a wooden beam section of 10x10 cm. The further order of arrangement of the truss system remains the same as the situation with a wooden veranda.

If the veranda is planned to be used throughout the year, the masonry of the walls can be made in two rows, filling the gap between the rows with thermal insulation material. With a single laying, the insulation, moisture insulation and interior finish are done by analogy with a wooden veranda. Exterior finish remains at your discretion. You can simply carefully trim the seams and finish this.

size masonry	length, L	width, B	height H	Max-In the brick without taking into account the thickness of the mortar weld, pcs.	Number of bricks taking into account thickness mortar joint 10 mm, pcs.
1 m 2 cu. Brick masonry single	250	120	65	512	394
1 m cu.brickwork thickened	250	120	88	378	302
1 sq. m.m masonry in polkirpicha( thickness of laying 120 mm)	250	120	65	61	51
1 sq. m.m masonry in polkirpicha( thickness of laying 120 mm)	250	120	88	45	39
1 sq. m.m masonry in one brick( masonry thickness 250 mm)	250	120	65	128	102
1 sq. m.m masonry in one and a half bricks( masonry thickness 380 mm)	250	120	65	189	153
1 sq. m.m brickwork in one and a half bricks( masonry thickness 380 mm)	250	120	88	140	117
1 sq. m.m masonry in two bricks( masonry thickness 510 mm)	250	120	65	256	204
1 sq. m.m masonry in two bricks( masonry thickness 510 mm)	250	120	88	190	156
1 sq. m.m masonry in two and a half bricks( masonry thickness 640 mm)	250	250	65	317	255
1 sq. m.m masonry in two and a half bricks( masonry thickness 640 mm)	250	250	88	235	195

Make the roof of the veranda

Mauerlat and rafters are installed. It remains to make the crate, mount the insulation layers and lay the finishing roofing material.

The cladding can be continuous( for roll materials) and sparse( for sheet roofing).The continuous crate is made of OSB boards. For this we attach them to rafters with a 1-centimeter gap. Bars of a rarefied lath are fastened with the steps recommended by the manufacturer of the chosen roofing material. On average, it is 30-35 cm. For fixing the crate to the rafters we use galvanized nails or screws.

The cells between the beams of the crate are filled with mineral wool for thermal insulation. On top of the flooring waterproofing film and attach it to the lath with a stapler with staples. In the case of the arrangement of a continuous crate, the insulation is fixed from the inside of the room. Fixing of plates of a heater we provide by means of cross-section rails, nailing them to a crate.

In the end, it remains to mount the roofing. It is better that it corresponds to the roof covering of the main house. In the rest, we are guided by our preferences and the available budget.

We finish the floor

If the rough floor is wooden, we install the logs, we lay the insulation in the space between them and fill the logs with edging from the edging boards. The boards are painted and varnished.

On top of the concrete screed, you can also equip the boardwalk, similar to the previous method, or lay other material at your own discretion, for example, linoleum.

is planned. In the end, it remains to install windows and doors, make furniture at your discretion and connect if necessary lighting. We will not pull the wiring. It is enough to take the extension cord out of the house and turn on the necessary lighting devices.

Have fun!

Video - Veranda by yourself