House of lumber with own hands

I wanted to build a house. I immediately ran into the problem of choosing the material. Money was not very much, but the house wanted to get reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the proposals of the modern construction market, I decided to stop at the bar.

On the forums advised to build houses from a bar section 15h15 cm. But I had to build myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I did not want to attract third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter bar. Instead, he bought a dry material with a cross section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls with mineral wool outside and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story for an example of leadership and navigate the situation.

Pouring the foundation

First I cleared the area under the house of debris, bushes and other disturbing things. After that, he began to build the foundation.

I had to think for a long time what type of foundation would be right for my area. He studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the ground and the level of groundwater. In this I was helped by specialized reference literature. In addition, I asked the neighbors on what foundations their houses stand.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions allow you to save on the arrangement of foundations, so most neighbors have houses on light supports made of limestone and concrete. More often than not, they refuse to reinforce the reinforcement - such is our wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not "sheafy".Water runs deep, and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need in the arrangement of buried monolithic supports in my region.

The foundation began to do with digging trenches. First I removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. For better compaction, I spilled it with water. Then laid out the trenches with a stone and laid two reinforcing bars. I tied them in the corners. I think the tape is best reinforced below and above. And he did.

To get rid of unnecessary work, you could order ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region it was unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. Yes, and the site I have such that the truck would have to go through the garden, and this I do not need.

Plus is ready concrete is expensive, and the sand on my site is free. Stone ordered with delivery - it was relatively inexpensive. I made inquiries: in Moscow, even an empty truck would have been more expensive. You could save extra by typing stones yourself on the river, but I did not need that.

I tried to knead concrete manually. Quickly convinced of the senselessness of this event - it turns out too long and time-consuming. I purchased the concrete mixer CM-160.It is relatively inexpensive, but in the economy it will definitely come in handy.

Began to knead concrete. The process went fast and fun. Concrete mixer is very convenient to handle - it can be moved without difficulty along the dug hole. Under the pouring of concrete, I adapted the sheet, seen in the picture. Under the sheet, several supports were pushed so that the material did not bend.

The seller of the concrete mixer immediately warned me that during the use of the unit, the plastic casing at the motor installation site should not be closed, otherwise it could overheat. After the completion of the same work, I always close the concrete mixer with a plastic film in case of rain.

Concrete mixer helped to quickly prepare the right amount of solution. I put stones in concrete. So flooded the foundation tape to the ground level. The aerial part of the tape was laid out on a thicker solution using the same stone.

Few before reaching the top of the basement, installed a reinforcing frame. The masonry was made with stones of a smaller size.

The foundation is almost ready. Left him to gain strength. The ground does not look very neat and smooth, but in the future nothing will stop him from repairing and tidying up. For example, the finish of the aboveground part of the base can be done with plaster - a traditional option for village and country houses. A more modern solution is special decorative panels.

During my work I saved a lot. For example, I did not make the formwork, and to equip the foundation I used cheap local materials - stones and sand. Even taking into account the cost of my concrete mixer, the foundation came out cheaper than if I ordered ready-made concrete and collected the formwork.

Alas, this will not be the case in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the suburbs, I would have to make a formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then fill in the building mix.

While concrete is gaining strength( and it takes him 3-4 weeks), I will prepare the supplies.

Preparatory activities

Workpiece preparation

The joining of the bar rims is done using wooden nails. I decided to make them from scraps of boards left over from other construction events. In my case, this was the arrangement of a roofing crate.

For nagels, use as hard wood as possible. The very process of manufacturing fasteners is extremely simple. I took the trimming of the board and tapped them on one side with the help of a suitable saw.

Then I put the emphasis and began to saw in size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I received accurate and beautiful workpieces.

Planks sawed with a band saw. On the way out I got a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my nagels.

Preparation of moss

boards The technology requires that between each crown of the beam an intervent insulation is laid. Professionals are usually warmed with roll materials. Work with them is easy and convenient - enough to roll out the material on top of the folded crown and you can continue to work. However, for the convenience and ease of processing have to pay.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. First, this material is full in nature - go, but assemble. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. In addition, he began to study thematic forums: moss is actively used as an interventure heater, and there are no negative responses about it.

For warming, red or peat moss is best suited. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second after drying becomes brittle. If possible, it is best to use red moss. It's easy to learn it - it's long stems with leaves resembling a Christmas tree.

Specialists recommend warming with fresh moss, lying no more than 2-3 weeks. I kept the moss in plastic bags, while it was even a little wet. There was nothing wrong with the material.

Manufacturing of jambs

I make them for each door and window openings. For this I use a straight beam. If possible, there should not be bitches. For greater convenience, I made an improvised workbench directly near the stack of my lumber. I made longitudinal cuts. In this, I was helped by a circular saw. Excess material removed with a chisel.

Make the right jamb on the strength of not even every professional carpenter. Therefore, I decided to make jambs for windows using simplified technology. In each window opening, I will install only a pair of vertical jambs. For horizontal communication, the window unit will directly respond.

To install the unit you need a "quarter".However, I've come up with here how to simplify the task. Instead of sampling( in the photo it is shaded) I decided to paste the bar. For this, the plane was pre-sharpened. The result was no worse than he would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is not possible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the articles can be substantially simplified.

I chose in the bar, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the depressions in the side jambs. This allowed me to put the bottom bar on the studs of the opening. However, at this stage, the beam would have to be chiseled across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found an excellent way out of this situation! Taking a disk saw, I prepared the cuts, having preliminarily set the appropriate output of the disk and making a parallel stop.

Then I took the first drill bit and made a 2.5 cm diameter hole for nagels. Finally, a flat rectangle was cut across the wood fibers. This helped me a saber saw.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the doorway, and from the bottom of each vertical jamb draw on the counter ledge, cutting and sawing out excess timber with a chisel. I decided to make holes, as for fixing nagels, and scored a couple of fasteners. A similar hole was made at the bottom of the jambs.

I did not touch the upper horizontal bar, but nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take on the functions of the "quarter".The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but it does not interfere with its main function. In the future I build an opening and paste the "quarters".

Necessary tools

For building a house from a wooden beam I used the following tools and accessories:

• bezudarnuyu electric drill;
• saw blade;
• measuring tape;
• sledge hammer;
• electric cutter;
• elbow;
• sledge saw;
• plumb line;
• hammer;
• water hose;
• ax.

For the sawing of a wooden beam I bought a disk saw. I had to saw in two approaches. First I drew a line on the charcoal, then cut it, turned the bar and again cut it. On the second side of the beam the line is best transferred, too, using a square. If you are sure of your "eye", you can saw "by eye".

With the help of a circular saw I made thorns and grooves for the angle joints of the beams. When settling the spikes I lacked a small depth of cut, so I had to do a couple of extra moves with a hacksaw.

It is recommended to use a workbench for more convenient processing of the timber. I did not have a workbench, and I improvised - laid the lumber in a stack about 85 cm high.

Building a house

Rules for laying the lower rim

The laying of the starting crown is traditionally performed with a joint known as "on the floor of a tree".This node without any problems becomes a circular saw - it is enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas the depth of the cut was not sufficient - here I worked as a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material with a chisel. By the way, in my case, the bottom crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

The lower crown I put on the lining of the boards. Between the elements, breaks have turned out - in the future I will do some blows there. In my region, they are usually in the wall, not in the concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, it is easier and quicker to make the air in the wall. Secondly, at some elevation the wind moves at a higher speed than directly at the ground, so that the underground will be better ventilated.

I'm going to mount the floor joists on the lining - so, as I think, the load on the base will be distributed more evenly.

The underlays and bezel of the lower crown are covered with an antiseptic. As practice shows, the fastest material is rotted at the bottom. In my situation at the bottom lay pads, and not the cant. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the bezel of the lower crown.

Features of laying the second and next rims

Beginning with the second wreath of the masonry, the work is carried out in the same order. In the corners, I joined the bar with the help of indigenous thorns - the usual abutment of the elements is unacceptable here.

I took a saw blade and stitched a couple of cuts. On the second side, the cutting line was carried by a square. Root spike is easy, everything is demonstrated in the photo. If there is insufficient output of the disc, the depth can be obtained by hacksaw. The groove is made even easier. Also shown in the photo.

Important note! Note that in the "spike-groove" joints there should be approximately a 0.5-cm clearance for packing the seal. The connection in which wood simply touches wood is unacceptable.

Previously, I set the depth of cut I needed. At my saw it is possible to change an exit of a disk without special problems - simply enough to weaken a lever. The addition is convenient in the work. If in traditional carpentry the master exposes some parameter of the working tool and prepares the necessary quantity of the same types of workpieces, in carpentry the situation is slightly different: the material is dragged onto the workbench and the depth of the cut is regulated directly in the course of work.

My saw is equipped with a thin disc - for cutting it is necessary to apply much less effort. The safety hood moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

At my house the walls will be longer than the cant, so I will have to join the building material. To do this, I made a long cut from both ends of the long beam, removed the excess with a chisel and got a spike in the middle. The ledge is ready, now you need a groove. Cutting wood chisel across the fibers - is inappropriate. I went to the trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second bar. The length of the drill was not sufficient to create a through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off excess timber from the workpiece, made markings and cut the timber along the fibers with a chisel. I joined the spliced ​​beams. Gaps hammered in the moss.

Helpful hint. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to make the spikes for the jambs of this opening at once. In the process of cutting the beam, it will not be possible to completely make the spikes with a saw, it will be necessary to additionally chisel the chisel at the end of the process. On the next photo you see the bars already with fastening spikes. As thresholds thresholds for doors are demonstrated.

Lay the second crown on the bottom, having competently executed angular joints and necessary splices along the length. It's time to make a markup for installing nagels - the connectors of the crowns of my house under construction. I took a gon and put vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and at the top, in the places where the fasteners were to be placed. He turned the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my beam. After drilling holes for fasteners and hammered them into nails with a hammer.

What you need to know about nagels?

Logically, in a round hole, you would have to drive round the same naked. Builders adhere to a different technology and use square nagels. Such fasteners are also simpler in manufacturing, and the connection is held much more reliably. In this case, a short pile will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is that to drill a hand drill with a strictly vertical hole without the slightest deviation is impossible. When installing the beam of the next crown on the pointed and slightly protruding naked the first will be slightly unsteady. For the beam to be firmly entrenched, it must be additionally besieged by a sledge hammer.

The nails used by me work crosswise and ensure correct shrinkage even if there are minor deviations from the vertical in the fixing holes. There will not be any slits. Firstly, the beam will shrink. Secondly, the space between the wreaths is filled with a heater, as I will discuss further.

One day I had to watch how builders made holes in a wall from a bar with a long drill and poked in them round long nagels that looked like cuttings from a shovel or a rake. Were such holes vertical? Naturally, no. In the end, the cant beet was not an ass, but as if it "hung" on nagels, which led to the formation of impressive cracks between the crowns.

timber What to do with moss and paste?

After driving nagels, I laid on the wedge of a tow and moss. Pakluk laid across the uneven bars. Moss just scribbled on the patch. As a result, the tow hanging from the walls. Thanks to this in the future it will be easier for me to caulk the walls. Moss also provides a decent insulation of the building.

I installed the bars on nagel, laid the patch, scribbled moss, laid siege on the crown, but for some reason it is still staggering. This is due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I densely filled them with moss. In this I was helped by a spatula and a narrow strip of metal.

Attentive reader will ask: what about the tow? Is it not necessary to lay it in the corners? No no need. Firstly, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand still for a long time without any finish, and the sediment moisture will continually flow down the corners. Moss will not allow wood to rot in these places. Secondly, in the future, the beam in the corners will certainly have to be scraped. Moss will not interfere with this. The tow can also lead to the breaking of the plane.

Now my corners are strong, insulated and inflated. At the end of the day I covered the corner joints in order to protect them from possible atmospheric precipitation.

Recommendations for the alignment of the rims

In the picture, you see that one beam I have is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We do not hasten to include elekrorubanok immediately - with such a problem it is quite possible to cope with a simple sledgehammer.

I worked as a ruber at the very end, when the interference of the next crown was clearly visible. I compared small "screws" and "humpbacks".More significant differences in height compensated with the help of the pakli and moss - their arrangement takes much less time than for the processing of wood by the planer.

That we should build a house!

You have already familiarized yourself with the basic principles of laying each wreath. There are important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the inner supporting wall of the house must be connected with the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding, I use a tried and tested connection. Only here holes for nageli I drill "chess" in relation to the lower wreaths. After that, I lay the tow and moss, and placing each beam in the place designated for it, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is the order of building the house is extremely simple:

• I lay the next crown;
• I do markup for nagel;
• drill holes;
• drive wooden fasteners;
• I put the tow, I throw moss on it;
• repeat the sequence.

The length of the beams is joined by the method of "razor".

Design of the apertures

Having reached the height of the window sill( I have the seventh crown), I made a layout for the arrangement of window openings. The width of each opening was calculated by adding to the width of the purchased window block the dimensions of the jambs and sealing gaps. On each side of the opening there should be a pair of gaps - between the doorframe and the window unit being installed, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

Based on the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, previously cutting the bars in the bars, similar to the stage with doors openings.

Following crowns with a window aperture stacked from uneven bars, observing the same overall dimensions.

All the window openings I built out of "korotyshey", the evenness of which was broken in the process of shrinkage of the timber - for walls such material does not fit, and throw out a pity. The lintel did not. Arranging the opening, constantly checked its evenness with the help of a plumb. Walls also checked.

I have temporarily fixed a separate partition using racks, so that in the process of work it does not fall. The T-shaped structure, as well as the angle in the additional reinforcement do not need - they are perfectly retained by their own weight.

Important note! In the places of arranging the studs of the opening and the line of cut, ie.only a few centimeters from the edge, I did not pack the patch, becauseWhen cutting, it would be wound on a cutting blade. In the future, the spider without any problems is pummeled from the ends.

After laying the last crown with a window opening( it needs to be temporarily laid without fastening and sealing), I removed the upper beams and made cuts for the studs. They put on jambs. After setting the saw blade to the required depth, set the parallel stop to maintain the desired margin from the edge. A lot of time for such a job I did not go away. Cut the beam to the required depth with a circular I did not work - I had to finish with a hacksaw.

In the lower rim of the opening I made spikes to control my assembly. In the last crown of this did not become - in the future the spikes still have to be created in each bar.

I was convinced on my personal experience that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without communication, while not quite "short", the task is not the simplest.

Light and short cuttings can be tried on before embossing a groove or a spike. It may well be that the bar, deviating to the left, will lie a bar with a deviation to the right. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams have a deviation in one direction, you can not count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, it is possible to construct "screws" using a planer or to lay the beam "ladder".I had the second case. I also eliminated the gap with the help of a plane. At each stage, he checked the verticality of the opening openings with a plumb line.

Installation of jambs and completion of work

The top crown was laid. It's time to mount the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, the strength of the finished structure will be significantly increased. The lower beam of each opening is completed with a full spike. On the upper bars, there are cuts in the required places. I apply a guide, I expose the required depth of cut and I do it with a circular saw. After that I spend a couple of lines from the ends of the spike and I get rid of excess material with a chisel.

Thorns have a smaller width than the grooves. I fill the gaps with heat-insulating material. If you want, you can make the spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut down excess material and fill the gaps with a sealant.

Inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you are planning to make an extension, do not stack the top of the log before it is erected. I also mounted on the crown less.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until next season. The beam just has time to shrink. After that I will continue, as I will tell you in my next story.

Instead of

conclusion While the house is shrinking, decided to take stock. First, I was glad that much less money was spent on the foundation, if compared with other types of supports. A little money was spent on the dump truck. There is a lot of sand in my region too - you can dig yourself and bring it yourself. Most of the money was spent on cement and reinforcement.

Secondly, pleased with the affordable cost and a relatively small consumption of building material. When I brought the bar, I laid it in a pile about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I had miscalculated somewhere and I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 bars remained unused. In general, for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m( I have 6x7.5 m on the timber part), I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a cross section of 15x10 cm. I would spend money 1.5 times more on a bar of 15x15 cm. Yes, and additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.

Third, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. He made himself, the moss is free. I was glad to give my friends to Pakkul after finishing their construction activities.

Fourth, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. All that I used for construction, I will be useful in the farm in the future. Particularly pleased with the acquisition of a good circular saw and concrete mixer.

Now about the speed of the work. I did not have any special experience in building a beam. As practice shows, for a whole day, working in one hand and with good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. At you it can turn out both faster, and more slowly, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of this construction is that you do not need to have any special skills for it. And I personally became convinced of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you will be able, just as I realize my dream of owning a house.

Good luck!

Video - House from a bar with your own hands