How to build a skeleton sauna - step by step technology

At the end of last summer, my son and I decided to build a sauna on our own. There we already have a capital house, and besides, there are no problems with electrification and water supply. The choice was stopped on the frame structure, as it is not only economical, but also built in a matter of days.

track. Having prepared the draft of the bath 4,5 x 4,5 m, I began to buy timber, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal tiles, insulation, OSB, hydro and vapor barrier. Also ordered the delivery of chamotte and ordinary red brick, clay refractory for the furnace. By the way, I designed the oven for a bath myself. I was assisted in the masonry by an experienced master stove, after all, I wanted the furnace to be as effective and safe as possible. I compiled the scheme of the oven on a sheet in a cage, the process of building( including the erection of the house) tried to shoot as much as possible in detail, so that my experience was useful to other people.

Of course, the two of us build a sauna quite hard, so at some points my son and I were helped by two brave workers.

Planning

bath rooms For a start was madethe project of our future bath. We thought about the location of the rest room, shower room, steam room, the place of installation of the oven. According to the project, the location of the water supply and sewage pipes, the places of laying electrical cables were calculated. The roof we decided to build a gable with a window on the pediment. Under the roof should be a place for the attic, on which we will store a tool or bath brooms. The total number of windows, not including what is under the roof, will be two. One - as a light source in the recreation room( 120 x 120 cm), the other two for additional ventilation of the steam room( 60 x 60 cm) and washing( 90 x 60 cm).The door will be installed metal, for greater security of the property during our absence at the dacha.

The entrance group will consist of a small wooden staircase and a gable roof, also made of wood.

The foundation was decided to build columnar from asbestos-cement pipes. Only 24 bars, with 5 of them holding the furnace. In the future, around the basement of the bathhouse will be laid a blind area and equipped livnevka, because I do not burn with desire after pleasant procedures to go out on a dirty dirty yard.

We arranged the bath in one of the corners of the site. Near a tall fence and trees. The ideal place, as I believe, for construction. Perhaps in the near future we will build a baptismal font or a small pool on the lawn.

Foundation

The foundation, as I said, is columnar under our bath. First, we, with the help of mercenaries, removed a layer of soil with shovels with grass growing on it. The site was leveled, after which they started marking.

I want to share my experience and tell you in detail about the process of markup. To the bath was not a curve and a slant, it is necessary to accurately measure the angles and diagonals. We did this.

The first corner was planned by sticking a peg into the ground and leveling it on a plumb line. For further marking, a gon and a five-meter roulette were useful. To the first peg tied a cord, measured 450 mm, checked the angle and stuck two more pegs, respectively denoting the second and third corners of the bath. Similarly, pulling the cord, set the last fourth peg.

In spite of the fact that we checked the corners with a square, the diagonals were measured with small inaccuracies. I had to correct them, slightly shifting the pegs and clearly leveling them in level.

The next stage of the work was marking the position of the columns, the distance between which is 112.5 cm. The location was marked by simply fitting the bars of the armature.

In the bathhouse there will be one interroom partition connected to the corner of the oven. Using a tape measure, my son and I made a stop and noted the position of one column, which will hold the partition and four more posts, which later will be under the stove.

After all calculations and markings, it's time to drill pits under foundation pillars. Under the ground, they will leave for one and a half meters and stick out of the ground for another 30 cm. The photo shows that we removed the cords, but left the pegs. The pits were excavated quite quickly - the workers drilled with petrol, the son helped to carry the earth. By the way, the diameter of the pits was approximately 30 cm, that is, 5 cm more than the diameter of the asbestos-cement pipes.

For the columns to stand tightly, I poured a layer of gravel and sand onto the bottom of the pits, and then rammed this filling with a manual rammer. He made it himself, perpendicularly pinned to a long birch log a bar-pen. The principle is simple - gravel fell asleep, took a log, dropped it into a pit and knocked them several times.

. The cement for the posts we with my son was kneaded in a small electric concrete mixer. Cement, sand, some rubble were poured, mixed and poured in water. Columns were filled with all the rules. At first the pipe fell into the pit, then the first layer of the solution was poured into it. We lifted the pipe so that part of the glass solution would be placed on the bottom of the pit, then lowered it, leveled it and then poured it up to the top with layers of 20-30 cm. Each layer had to be compacted using the same log with a crossbar. Good log diameter was less than the diameter of the pipes. In order not to stain the poles, concrete poured through a narrow chute and a plastic funnel. It turned out fairly neat. After pouring, in concrete we drove the bars of the armature( studs with thread).The upper edge was left to stick out a little above the concrete, in order to attach the beams of the lower strap in the future. Lastly, sand was poured into the space between the walls of the pits and the pipes. This work on the construction was temporarily completed.

Two days later, after a good rest, I started the foundation for the furnace. Cut a sheet of chipboard into 5 parts - 4 for the walls of the formwork and 1 for the bottom. The largest sheet was tried on the supporting posts, then went to drill holes in it in the stud, and at the same time nailed the skirts with nails. The resulting box with holes I planted on the studs, prepared nuts with washers and, leveling the sheet on the level, slowly tightened the fasteners. From below the formwork was supported by boards.

To make the foundation under the stove stronger, I made a reinforcing cage. I found a welded mesh, cut out two pieces of almost the size of the formwork and welded pieces of wire so that the frame turned out to be three-dimensional. Look at the diagram, it shows how the rods are located. Of course, ideally use a non-welded mesh, and independently bind loose wires to separate armatures. Such a connection is more plastic and does not collapse almost never.

Concrete filled with a small crushed stone was poured into the formwork with the reinforced frame laid. There is really nothing to tell here - they poured, blew out air bubbles, tamped, covered with a film and left to freeze. This process lasts a whole month. We did not wait for my son, having decided to make a skeleton of a bath, a roof and some accompanying works during this time.

was poured under the stove. Before I started laying the beams, I dug between the pipes of the sewage pipe and the water supply, so that later I did not have to climb under the logs.

Bottom strapping and rough floors

Bottom strapping is the first layer of beams laid on the foundation pillars. I took the bar well dried, 15 x 15 cm and treated with antiseptic "Senezh".Humidity in the bath house is quite high, wood without impregnation simply begins to rot.

I joined the bars using the "paw" method. For clarity, he drew a diagram with dimensions. I used a hacksaw and a Bulgarian in my work. At first he cut down all the ends, then spread out the beams in the clearing in front of the bath and checked the correctness of the connections.

While I was doing this, my son was laying the waterproofing on the foundation - plastered the tops of the pillars with bituminous mastic and pasted pieces of roofing material onto it.

To lay the strap on the foundation, I had to drill holes for the studs protruding from the concrete. The beam was laid directly on the poles, made markings in place, after which I already made the drilling. Marking the first two bars, put them on the supports, checked with a square so that the angle was exactly 90 degrees, only after that they tightened the lock nuts. By the way, under the intermediate poles we did not drill holes, we cut the reinforcement, so as not to interfere. Nuts tightened the bar only in the corners of the bath. Two more pieces of timber were laid in the place where the interior partition will be.

There is a sequence of laying the floor. To once again not to suffer with cutting down the bars, I purchased plates with holes for the anchors.

The board took a cross-section of 150 x 50, sawed and fastened with beams, using the mentioned fasteners, screws and screwdrivers.

I sewed up the lag with OSB sheets. It turned out quite solid floor.

Assembling of frame and trusses

Assembling of walls

We assembled the walls from the same boards with a section of 150 x 50 mm, fastening them together with metal perforated plates( corners).In theory, the distance between the posts should be from 60 cm to one meter, we did so, except that above and below the bridge of the windows the boards were set somewhat closer to each other.

We assembled on the lawn near the bath, so it was much easier to measure, cut and fix. The assembly is very simple - first, the two upper and two lower boards are fastened, then the rectangles of the windows are assembled, then the missing jumpers and supports are added. In addition, we strengthened the construction of the walls with jagged edges. Also, in order to strengthen the structure, we attached one more board to each of the three window and one door lintels( we took galvanized, 45 mm) one more board( note the photo).

The walls were installed in turn, starting from the front. Alone and even together it is very difficult to install the design without any distortions, so the assembly was made by five - I, my son and three assistants. The walls between each other and from the floors were fastened with stainless nails 100 mm long, driving them in two rows every 45-50 cm. Finally, another row of bundling boards was laid over the walls and nailed. This method of frame construction reminds the children's designer. We assembled the walls and installed them in just three days.

Rafters

The roof of our sauna is gable with hanging rafters. In total, we produced 11 farms. The photo shows how we raised them to the roof.

. The truss saws were made with a slope of 45 degrees and reinforced with two struts. Having made one farm and fastened the elements with perforated plates, I continued to work, using the first triangle as a template for the rest. The rafters of the roof of my bathhouse will be supported by the boards of the upper harness, secured to it by corners. Pay attention to the cuts made in those places where the rafters will come in contact with the upper strapping, as well as at the ends of the rafters, where I cut off the corner for a more aesthetic look of eaves.

The trussed truss, which performs the function of the pediment, was reinforced with four vertical slats, and in the center I nailed two bridges to further install the ventilation window.

The two extreme farms were assembled of only two boards each. We strengthened these farms last. The photos show the retaining straps. Thus, from the back of the bath and above the facade, we created small canopies.

Assembly of metal tile

I decided to cover the bath with Finnish metal tile Pural matt, because its matte coating is more resistant to burnout and mechanical damage.

I installed a layer of waterproofing on the roof, which I fixed with thin slats directly to the rafters. After that, with a small gap, I fixed the boards of the crate.

On the crate, I nailed sheets of metal. Regular self-tapping screws are not suitable here, so they bought special, painted in the tone of the coating. Metal I laid in one row, adhering to the following scheme:

• sheet lifted to the roof by ropes;
• work started from the lower right corner. The first was leveled with respect to the eaves and attached with special screws, and screwed them not to the end, so that there was an opportunity to correct the position of the sheet;
• the second sheet was laid with an overlap in one wave and again screwed with screws to the crate;
• the last sheet of the row was fixed when the second row was laid.

Further work was carried out using the same technology. The skate was fixed from above.

Immediately, in order not to return to the roof several times, I cut the lining and sewn up the cornices.

Installation of drainage system

Gutter mounted with assistants. I chose metal gutters, because they are the most durable, although the plastic ones are cheaper. The gutter was purchased with a width of 100 mm and a diameter of 75 mm. The length of the cornices of my bath is 5 meters each, the distance from the eaves to the blind is 2.5 meters. Proceeding from such data, I purchased two pipes of 2.2 meters long, two outlet funnels, suitable for gutters, two drain elbows, 4 plugs for gutters. Four more knees were needed to connect the pipes to the funnels.

Pipes are fixed to the wall with clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps, and brackets - 10 pieces, I will mount them on the cornice through each meter. Another four locks were needed to fasten the three-meter troughs.

Work began with the markup. He took a ladder, roulette, marker, thread and climbed under the roof. I had to pull the thread so as to attach the trough with a slope of 5 mm to 1 m, that is, with a total slope of 25 mm.

I attached the two extreme adjustable brackets to the crate( from the edge I stepped back 15 cm) and pulled the thread. I checked the slope with a tape measure. The rest of the brackets are fixed so that they touch the thread. Further nailed to the crate curtain rod.

By the way, I did all this work before the installation of the metal tile, and immediately put the trough when all the covering was mounted. Pipes are connected, when they made the outer covering of the walls of the house.

Chutes were connected with locks. He applied a sealant to the rubber gasket and connected the pipes, leaving a gap of approximately 3 mm between the ends of the elements to be joined. Such a gap is needed to compensate for the temperature expansion.

In the gutters, I cut open the holes in the form of the V with a hacksaw, took the funnels and connected each one, just by placing the edges under the outer bend of the gutter, and then bending the flange to the leading edge of the gutter. I installed a funnel at a distance of 15 cm from the end of the trough.

At the ends of the gutters, it has installed plugs. The drainage knee was fastened to the pipe with rivets. The spider, which is inserted into the funnel, did not buy, he bent the wire so that it would delay the debris.

I fixed the pipe holders with dowels. The pipes are assembled very simply - they are inserted into each other and clamped together with clamps, which are pre-nailed to the wall in advance by dowels.

Sheathing of the sauna baths

For the external covering of the sauna walls, I chose the plates "Isoplate".They have good steam throughput, and the material is natural. Plus, these plates - the hardness of the walls of the bath. I took the "isoplate" 25 mm thick, cut it with a jig saw and fastened it to the frame with nails.

On top of the plates of "Isoplate" I pulled the film "Izospan".This material is also hydro- and wind-proof, but at the same time it passes steam. I fastened the material with a stapler, making overlaps horizontally and vertically about 10 cm.

From inside, I warmed the bath with basalt wool. Plates in places had to be cut, because they did not enter the space between the racks. In addition, cotton wool is not strengthened, it is so tightly laid down.

Already at this stage my assistants began to make a water distribution of polypropylene. This is clearly seen in the photo. I chose such a hidden type of pipe installation for aesthetic reasons. In the future, they will all be hidden under the finish lining.

The external decorative covering of the bath was made by lining. This material was not chosen by chance. Firstly, the sauna, lined with wood, has a presentable appearance, and secondly, the wooden lining allows the walls to "breathe" and the condensate does not accumulate either in the insulation or in the frame itself.

To provide the necessary air layer, I directly on the vapor barrier stuffed thin wooden slats 3 cm wide and half a centimeter thick.

Ebb for the socle

By the way, it was after I stuffed the slats and before the installation of the lining began to install the tide for the socle. I took the green bars of metal. The width was chosen only 50 mm - this is quite enough for a bath. To fix the ebb stream smoothly, first pulled the thread, checked the line level, and then proceeded to install from the far corner of the bath.

I took the first bar, in the center with a pencil, I marked a line across the profile. From this line to the right and left retreated by 5 cm, put the points and joined them so that a triangle formed. This triangle cut with scissors on metal, then bent the bar, attached it to the wall of the house and twisted special screws with washers. To make it more clear, I apply the scheme that I found on the Web.

socle. The rest of the profiles along the perimeter were fastened the same way - just screwing in the screws and simultaneously checking the horizontality. All joints are smeared with frost-resistant sealant. When I installed all the slats, I additionally strengthened the casting of the cap with mounting foam - it applied it in a small amount under the slats.

Mounting of lining

Mounting lining was decided using kleymers. Of course, you can just nail the boards with nails, but it's pretty ugly.

The first board, my son and I just pressed to the wall, aligned and fixed with screws, screwing them around the edges of the bar. Then on top of the grooves of the first board of the lining were inserted the Kleimers( they were inserted next to the laths of the crate, packed over the vapor barrier) and nails were beaten into the holes. The second board was inserted into the groove of the previous one. Through the intermediate bar, both boards were taped with a hammer so that they would be firmly connected. Then the kleimers were again inserted and fixed with nails. The rest of the boards were bolted in the same way, sawing off excess in the window and doorways.

I just nailed the last triangle under the roof itself.

When finished with the walls, I built a small canopy above the front door. In the future, I brought it to mind, turning it into a gable roof, lining up with metal roofing and installing under the canopy a street lamp.

Windows

Windows are a separate story. You need to install them, observing the technology and avoiding distortions. In a bath, the windows should not only be a source of light and provide ventilation, but also keep the heat well.

I ordered the windows in advance in one company, but I installed everything myself. To begin with, I took a vapor barrier and waterproof tape. The first was fixed around the perimeter of the window frame on its inner side, the second one with the outer frame, that is, with the street frame. The edges of these tapes will be glued to Izospan.

Ramu installed, knocked plastic wedges-spacers, to form a two-centimeter gap for foam. In the kit to the windows were mounting anchor plates with holes, into which I screwed in long self-tapping screws. After that, I filled in the gaps and checked the level again.

By the way, when installing the sash I shot only from one window - the largest one. Small windows installed, without removing the frames.

Door

I ordered a door metal, so that in my bath in the winter did not enter the ill-wishers.

First I took the door off the hinges to try on the box in the opening. All measurements were accurate, and the box was perfect. I fastened the box with self-tapping screws through the lugs, pre-punching under it wedges for leveling. The gaps between the frame of the house and the door frame filled the mounting foam, when it dried, hung the door leaf.

Ceiling bath

For the arrangement of the ceiling, I took an ordinary edged board from larch and neatly nailed it to the beams of the ceiling. In the place where there will be a hatch for access to the attic, cut out a rectangular hole.

Further work continued already in the attic and already after the bathhouse was built. I put foil vapor barrier on the rough ceiling, on it - slabs of basalt cotton wool, densely inserting them between the beams of the ceiling. Over the cotton wool, I pulled a plastic wrap and fixed it with adhesive tape. In the end, he just nailed another layer of edged boards. It remains only to make the hatch cover and fix the ladder. Fasteners were included, I just screwed all the details to the beams of the ceiling.

I acquired a sturdy staircase, a sliding, equipped with a finished hatch cover. However, so that this lid does not stand out on the ceiling, it gently slashed it with racks. It turned out well, the hatch closed became almost invisible.

Wiring

I dealt with electricity in a thorough manner, trying to do everything carefully and according to the rules. It can be seen in the photo that the wiring, as well as the water supply pipes, I did hidden, laying the wires during the warming of the walls and before finishing.

Electricity pulled from the house through the air, good distance is small. In one of the walls of the bath screwed the hook, the same screwed into the wall of the house( the distance from the hooks to the ground about three meters).He pulled a strong cable between them, around which a conductive cable wound around.

The photos show clamps that are attached to the hooks. It is mounted as follows:

• the CIP wire is moved apart, the place for the clamp is being prepared;
• wire SIP is inserted into the grooves of the anchor clamp;
• wires are "wedged";
• anchor clamp is attached to the hook - support.

Sockets, switches( class IP-44) and the flap I installed in the dressing room. The distance from the floor to the sockets took 90 cm. In the steam room and the washer, I pulled wires only for fixtures( I tried to do everything away from the oven), because these rooms are too humid and it is simply impossible to install the sockets.

Cables took copper, stretched them through incombustible metal corrugation, which was fastened with clamps. Some places had to drill holes in the supporting beams to hold the corrugation. Daisies put, when he lined the walls with a lining. And the sockets, switches and beautiful lamps( for a steam room I took with a refractory lamp, IP-54 class) installed last.

Earthing was done as expected - a triangle, vertical half-meter corners were struck with a strip of 40 mm. To do this, I had to enlist the help of a familiar electrician who had a welding machine. Near the bath they dug a trench-triangle. The triangle welded from the corners was driven into the ground. Then welded another section of the steel strip, which was taken out of the ground near the wall of the bath. At the end of the strip welded bolt M10.Next, it was necessary to drill a hole in the bath wall to lay a copper grounding conductor( I had an 8 mm diameter) from the ground to the switchboard. We wound the conductor on a bolt, closed the whole case with a terminal box, and already a skilled electrician and part-time my friend worked on the shield.

It all took about two hours. The metal strip I treated with bitumen, so as not to rust. Dug in the ditches, rammed, the next summer I plant a lawn there.

Sewage

In the bathhouse there will be a shower, and in the steam room water procedures are planned, therefore installation of sewerage is a must. As the final point of collection of drains, I envisaged a drainage well. He excavated a 1.5-meter pit with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, ground the bottom, covered it with sand and small gravel. Then in the pit we installed two meter RC rings. The joint of the rings was smeared with cement mixed with liquid glass.

Pipes were driven from the washing and steam room. Another pipe was drawn from the position of the urinal. Three holes were made in the floor, pipes were inserted in them. Three pipes were connected with each other by a suitable fitting. The common pipe was paved to the well under a small slope along the dug trench. The length of one pipe was not enough, I had to connect two straight segments to the coupler. All joints are silicone. At the bottom of the trench, I pre-poured the sand, he also fell asleep pipe after stacking.

The well was closed with a round RC plate with a hole. The neck was made of bricks, and instead of the lid a metal hatch was fitted for the gas crane. It is of small diameter, but sufficient for inspection of the level of runoff in the well and the pumping of waste water from the wastewater treatment plant. And I do not need to get inside completely, I think so.

In the rooms installed drainage ladders with siphons and filters. A compact part that is inserted directly into the sewer pipe. In choosing, he preferred the product with a metal grate, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The very grid is square with a round hole in the center, when laying the tiles, it did not take long to tinker with cutting. Drain arranged in parallel with the filling of the floor screed and the laying of tiles, as will be discussed later.

Oven

I designed and designed the sauna stove myself. The brickwork was carried out by the stove-maker, starting from my sketches. The work began before the finishing of finishing floors, the reasons, I think, are clear.

On the previously filled foundation was laid ruberoid and laid the first row of bricks. To avoid any distortions, each row of bricks was first laid out without clay mortar. To check the level, the level was used. Plumb lines were also pulled to control the verticality of the masonry.

The photo shows the second and third row of bricks forming the ash chamber and the "appendix" necessary for heating the lower part of the furnace. This design significantly exceeds the efficiency of classical furnaces with an ash chamber, equal in area to the firebox.

I hung the doors before installation with an asbestos cord and sealed with paint tape. In the available holes put a knitting wire, twisted it. The stove, during the laying of bricks, placed the long ends of the twisted wire between the rows, which ensured the reliable installation of the doors.

In the fourth row, the ceiling of the ash pan was made, the doors were finally fixed and the part of the "appendix" was blocked. Here, they placed a grate iron grate, having drunk under it rectangular cuts in bricks. The grate( size 20 x 30 cm) lay freely, with a gap of the order of 2 cm, necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

To ensure that the flooring is strong enough, the bricks are stuck under the wedge. Metal corners in the arrangement of the floor were not used.

Between the fourth and fifth row, and then through every two rows, the stoveman advised to lay reinforcing steel mesh.

The master then laid out the furnace, using a yellow fireclay brick for its walls. The ceilings and the firebox door were arranged according to the principle described above. A detailed masonry process is visible in the photo. Also in the furnace were installed chamotte bricks with triangular cuts. These holes are necessary for the supply of secondary air, without the presence of which it is impossible to burn off the wood gases.

When laying gas( smoke) channels, as well as between the fireclay core and the outer walls of the furnace, asbestos board was laid. Pay attention to the overlapping of the fireclay core. Bricks are cut and installed "on the edge".

Also in the picture are visible ledges of red brick, on which will be laid iron bricks. And on top will be stove stones. To make it more clear, I drew a diagram of the fireclay core with the position of the cast-iron bricks and some other elements of the furnace. On the right side of the stove there will be a fireplace portal facing the steam room. And the doors for cleaning and loading fuel go into the waiting room. Thus, smoke and carbon monoxide will never penetrate into the steam room, and you will be able to splash water on the glowing stones - "give a pair."

I build a furnace

After the fireclay core was blocked and the fireplace portal was installed( see photos), the masonry continued unchanged. Inside, straight vertical smoke channels were still formed, which on the 20-21 series were combined into one. Above distal flue was formed overlap, frame latches( bypass dampers) was installed between the channels opening into which the free movement of gases, and over proximal flue setter instead arranged the valve overlap chimney. The part was laid in pre-prepared cuts of bricks and fixed with chamotte clay and two dowels( holes in bricks were drilled with a winning drill).

Two series was installed another valve for the pipe. In total, three to two of the valves are for the chimney and one is a bypass installed between the smoke ducts( direct travel).

The photo shows a transition to a ceramic pipe made in the form of four rows of bricks, each of the rows partially hanging over the one below. Over the fourth overhanging row of bricks are laid three more rows - the transition to the chimney. In the last row of this transition, you can see a round cut in which a ceramic chimney will be installed, or rather an element for collecting condensate.

Also on the furnace side machines there are brick protrusions necessary for the further arrangement of the interior partitions.

The ceiling of the furnace was carried out under the ceiling. Metal corners were used, on which the final row of bricks was laid. Between the ceiling and bricks was laid sheet asbestos.

The installation of the most ceramic chimney( I took the Italian, Effie Domus for the bath) took quite a bit of time. Blocks were simply installed on top of each other, the fixation was done with sealant and building clay mortar. On top of the chimney installed deflector to protect against rain.

bannuyu oven a few days experienced - burnt several newspapers. Thrust is simply excellent.

Later, when I was making the finishing floor, I laid a steel sheet with a receiver for ash before the furnace. And sweep is easier, and the floor does not light up, if you accidentally drop coal.

Video - Installation of ceramic chimney

Paul

floors in the bath, we are insulated. In the thermae and the shower coating is tiled, and in the waiting room flooring laminate. First, I'll tell you about the steam room and shower room, there are many more important nuances.

Laying of tiles

The tiles were bought with a matte finish and rough, so they did not slip. We decided that the tile is much better than the wooden floor - it does not rot, and it is easy to clean. Glue was purchased with the best moisture resistance.

On the rough floor, waterproofing was laid, making an overlap on the walls. Over the waterproofing was laid insulation - EPPS( thickness 30 mm).For better adhesion of EPPS with waterproofing, mounting glue was used.

Over the heater, the screed was poured over the beacons with a slope toward the drainage funnel. Before pouring the solution, a reinforcing mesh and a set of lighthouses were laid. In the photo it can be seen that the beacons were fixed not to the floor, but to the asbestos solution - laying out piles and pressing profiles into them. The solution( cement with sand) was prevented in the rented concrete mixer, becauseit was important to fill the whole floor in one day. The solution was spread from the bucket by a trowel to the grid between the lighthouses and leveled with a wooden bar - the rule. Finally, the floor was already leveled with a wide spatula and trowel.

The tiles were laid from the drain trough to make it easier to follow the gradient. Previously, each was soaked in water. The glue was applied with a notched trowel on the dried and primed screed. At the same time, all the floor surface was not greased with glue at once, but only the space for laying 1-2 tiles. The glue quickly hardens and one can not cover a large floor area with it at once. The thickness of the adhesive layer was kept approximately equal to the thickness of the tile. Excess glue around the laid elements I collected with a simple narrow spatula.

At first all the rows of whole tiles were laid out, then - parts along the walls. Cut the tiles with a hand tile cutter. By the way, for the accuracy of the masonry we pulled the line and used crosses for the seams. And to better contact the surface of the tile with a binder, I immediately after tapping slightly rattled every square of the tile with a rubber mallet.

Laminate

Laminate was laid very quickly. The floor was laid over the heater with a film, waterproof plywood was fixed, the substrate was rolled.

Unpacked the packaging with a knife. I reached the first panel and laid it down, unfolding it with a small ledge to the wall. Between the wall and the plaque inserted 2 plastic wedges. I took the second bar, snapped it into the end groove first. Aligned, again framed the wedges. When I reached the opposite wall, I cut off an extra piece of the laminate panel with a circular saw. From a segment and began the next series. The second row was collected similarly to the first, after which the whole floor was lifted at an angle of 45 degrees and neatly connected with the latch of the first row, and then pushed it with a mallet through the bar. The last row had to saw along, precisely measuring the line of cut.

Walls

The walls, as seen in the photoreport, are sewn with a lining or tiled. About everything in order.

Laying of tile

Walls on top of the heater we have been sheathed with moisture-resistant GVL.Screws were used for fixing. They were screwed in with a step of 25 cm and receding slightly from the edge. Cut the sheets so that the joints were on the beams of the frame.

In the steam room it was decided to make a plinth of tile, so I had to buy two sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard, cut them neatly into strips and screw around the perimeter of the walls. By the way, the gypsum board was fixed already to the fixed foil( vapor barrier).

In the shower room the first row was laid from the floor tiles. It was necessary to cut it a little so that the top row of tiles on the wall consisted of whole tiles.

Apply the adhesive with a spatula to the wall, apply and tap the tile with a mallet. Between the adjacent tiles inserted crosses, so that the seams were the same. The plane and horizontality were checked by a long water level. The second and subsequent rows were already stacked from the tiles of a different color.

Some tiles had to drill holes for further installation of pipes and electrical appliances. With a pencil I did the marking, checked the ruler and the square with the accuracy of the hole position, after which a drill went into the case. First drilled a hole with a spear drill. So that the tile does not split, I glued a piece of paint tape from above. After the central hole was ready, the nozzle was changed to a circular one. I immediately purchased a crown with a carbide-tungsten coating for these purposes. Quite expensive, but it was enough for the whole process of finishing.

Surplus of glue immediately in the process of laying cleaned with a rag, until the composition is dried up. The seams for the grout turned out to be even and neat.

A day later after finishing the walls, the tile began to seam. First I pulled out all the crosses. Grout took two colors - white and dark brown. For the bath I picked up a two-component epoxy compound. It is not the cheapest, but it is ideal for wet rooms. The components of the grouting I mixed in one bucket, water did not add.

Before applying epoxy grout I slightly moistened the wall from the spray gun. Mass picks up on a spatula, then distributed at the seams, making movements from left to right perpendicular to the seam. The spatula held at an angle of about 30 degrees. Leveled the grout for 30 minutes after applying it, using a rubber spatula. Well, in the end, when the seams dried up, washed the walls with water and soap.

Wall paneling - installation

Walls in a steam room GVL-oh did not sheathed. Stretched foil vapor barrier, fixed it with a stapler and tape. By the way, I glued the adhesive tape well and the joint of the airway ventilation pipe with foil. Over the foil neatly stuffed reiki - crate.

I want to draw the reader's attention to the horizontal position of the wooden laths of the lining. I specially arranged them so as to avoid the capillary rise of moisture on the wooden wall and to achieve good air circulation, necessary for drying the material after bath procedures. It would be very unpleasant, if from constant dampness the bale was driven or it rotted in a couple of years. After all, we build a bath from the heart and for a long time. Also I want to say that the horizontal fastening allows you to repair or change individual slats, and if the lining is to be placed vertically on the walls, you will have to dismantle half the wall.

First I wanted to just nail the boards with nails, but then the choice fell again on the Kleimer. They are not visible under the lining, and the nails can rust from high humidity, there will be black stains on the walls.

I treated all the slats with Neomid so that the wood does not rot. And for fastening the first and last straps I got the finishing studs with a copper coating.

Installation started from the ceiling. I stepped back 3 cm, attached the bar, nailed the nail to the center. One more nail drove on both sides of the board, after which he checked the level with horizontal level. I collected the board so that the spike was on top, and the groove - from below. This is important, because if you cover the wall differently, moisture accumulates in the grooves, the wood will swell and lead it.

From the bottom of the groove of the first board inserted klemery, each of them nailed three nails to the crate. I inserted the second panel of the barbed spike into the groove. Slightly taped with a hammer from the bottom to the top, so that no gaps remain, after which he inserted the Kleimers and nailed them. So collected up to the floor. The last lower lath was cut along so that there was a gap of 2 cm between the floor and the wood. He put the board in the thorn of the penultimate board, nailed it. Along the way, I drilled holes for wiring and often checked the horizontality. All nails of the first and last panels I covered with a wooden plinth, and in the corners I installed vertical bars for beauty.

Shelves in the steam room

I told how to make the ceiling, floor and walls, the oven is ready, it remains to make shelves in the bath. For work, I took lime boards and pine bars. He drew a diagram, prepared a screwdriver, long self-tapping screws, metal fasteners, a hammer and nails.

First I marked the bars, cut them with a Bulgarian. The ends of the horizontal bars, which will be connected to the front vertical posts, I stifled on the principle of "spike-groove".That is, on the horizontal bars made a "thorn", and on the vertical racks "groove".

The first to the wall was fastened with support posts. I want to note that these supports should not be in contact with the floor, we must leave a gap of up to two centimeters. I fixed cross-members to the support posts. I just took the mounting bracket and nailed it under the horizontal bars in the place of their connection with the support posts. Thus nailed bars on which the boards and bars will rest for stability.

Likewise, I assembled a frame for the lower bench and a small table under the brooms, after which I put the boards on the frame and fixed them with screws. Speaking sharp edges for convenience cut off, well polished boards and frame, so as not to plant a splinter.

Interior doors

The installation of interior doors is similar in principle to the installation of the entrance door. In the steam room there is a glass door, in the waiting room there is a wooden one. The box in both cases is made of wood, ordered based on the dimensions of the opening.

The box consists of several elements. Connections are cut at an angle of 90 degrees. First, fasten the side strips and the top, using nails. Then he inserted plastic wedges and several struts between the elements of the box, blew out the mounting foam. When it was a little dry, neatly nails nailed the side slats of the door frame, which closed the gap and the layer of foam.

The process itself was not photographed, so I apply the picture-scheme for clarity.

The hinges were included, attached to the box and the canvas with self-tapping screws. At this stage of work, it is important to check all distances with a tape measure so that the door hangs smoothly. Then, just hang the door on the hinges and install the door handle.

Plumbing

The photo shows that we have a bucket for dousing on the wall, there is a urinal, shower and a mixer with a spout. The supply of sewer and hot / cold water pipes was made at the stage of laying the foundation and the construction of the walls. Now we are talking directly about the installation of sanitary ware.

Let's start with the urinal. My son and I chose a wall compact model with a crane instead of a drain tank, brought it, unpacked it, attached it to the wall to make the markings. The urinal has mounting holes, it is their location, as well as the contour, we marked on the wall with a marker after we checked whether the product is evenly attached to the wall.

The holes for the dowels were drilled on the markings.

The siphon in the urinal is solid, we have tried it on the release of the sewage pipe, after which we connected the pipe and siphon with a special branch pipe. The end of the branch pipe, which was inserted into the sewer pipe, was wrapped in linen thread and smeared with a marmot.

The crane at the urinal is mounted very simply. The part fits with the urinal through the rubber gasket. The height of the crane is regulated by the rotation of the parts. The connection to the water supply pipe is made by a nut. After connecting the urinal to the water supply and sewerage, I missed the junction between the faience and the wall with the sanitary sealant and checked the operability of the entire system.

I want to share a good video, which shows the device of the urinal and there are explanations on the connection.

A bit about the pouring bucket. This is a wonderful device that rotates if you pull the chain, and the float mechanism inside the bucket does not allow it to overfill. The frame of the bucket is fixed with dowels, and the water supply is carried out by a flexible hose.

Mixer and shower are installed in one principle. The package already has everything you need, you only need a wrench and a "Unipack" or "Moment" tape. Out of the box, I took out the eccentrics, screwed them into the pipes of hot / cold water, then took the level and adjusted them horizontally, while bringing the distance between them to 150 mm( slightly turning each eccentric in turn).

The next step was the installation of the product itself. The eccentric thread was twisted, rubber pads were put on, then I put the mixer on and screwed the union nuts onto the eccentrics.

I share one more video that I watched before installing mixers.

Socket siding

To make the bath look more pleasant and interesting, I decided to close the foundation columns with the panels of the socle siding. To fix it, you need metal bars to create a crate. Suitable even gypsum plasterboard profile. I want to note that at first I flooded the blind area and made a boardwalk from the side of the facade, and only then I fastened the crate and the panel. Otherwise, it would be difficult to calculate the height of the panels.

For fixing the battens( the lower starting profile at a distance of 5 cm from the blind area and flooring) used self-tapping screws and corners( simply cut pieces of gypsum board profile to make corners).With a screwdriver, the entire assembly is assembled in a matter of hours, the main thing is to accurately measure the length of the vertical stiffeners and fix the horizontal profiles to the level( for convenience, use the level and pull the lanyard).

I fastened the panels with screws, screwed them about every half a meter. In the same way, masking elements are fixed in the corners. In the panels I immediately made square slots and installed ventilation grilles( fixed with screws in corners) - on each side of the bath there are 2 gratings.

Blinds

I blinded the blinds between the foundation of the bath and the fence. Immediately laid the drainage gutter with the grate. The order is as follows:

• with a shovel, grass and soil layer were removed;
• took with his son boards, small bars, slats, nails, built the formwork so that the concrete did not pour out. That is, the boards were installed vertically and propped with racks on one side, fixed the entire structure with nails;
  

  Fill the blind - formwork and padding

• inside the formwork( namely between the foundation of the fence and the boards) poured sand, trimmed it with a long board, rammed. A layer of about 10 centimeters was obtained;
• crushed gravel on the sand;
• further on the rubble installed a chute and laid a welded mesh for reinforcement. By the way, the trough is installed with a slight inclination, so that the water flows better( note the bricks inside the gutter in the photo, so that the plastic product does not move).The mesh was stacked with overlaps, bricks were placed under it;
• mixture for pouring was mixed from portland cement grade 400, sand sifted river and gravel mixed with small pebbles. One bag of cement was taken about 3-4 bags of rubble( 50 kg each) and 2 bags of sand. Water was added already to the mixed dry components;
  

  The concrete

• went off so that the stage would not crack, just before pouring the mixture I prepared the slats( 4 pcs.) For the expansion joints and set them under the slope so that the water would flow down the trough in the finished stump;
• , the last thing we did was fill and level the concrete mix. During the week several times it was sprayed with water and waited for the concrete to solidify. From the gutter, the lumps that fell were removed immediately;
• after a couple of weeks the trough was closed with a grate.
  

  Finished plaster, until it dried

In front of the entrance door we have flooring of planks. Just three parallel bars were filled with boards, trimmed the edges with a hacksaw and bedded at the front door.

The finishing touches of

To make the bathhouse look finished, we equipped a porch with a canopy and a self-made ladder. The height of the stairs at the staircase is 18 cm, the parts were collected on the mounting corners and screws.

From the gate to the entrance I made a path, near the bath had time to collect a compost box and a decent drovnitsu. Inside the baths we brought furniture, hung out shelves, curtains, hung brooms. In the future, I plan to equip a garden near the bathhouse and build a street barbecue.