Sharp ax as a carpenter: correct sharpening

On what the method of sharpening the ax

depends First of all, determine which corner of the sharpener will suit you most of all. This characteristic is influenced by the following moments:

• wood species: different stiffness of fibers, different degree of twisting and the number of twigs and knots strongly influence the choice of angle;
• dry or wet wood: dry is easy to prick, it is only necessary to cut the log with a point, but for wet wood it will be necessary for the ax to go deeper;
• type of work: troweling will require a more acute angle than chipping firewood;
• ax metal: it is best that it is as durable as possible;It will be difficult to sharpen an ax, but enough grinds for a long time.

The second very important aspect of the grinding is the chamfer width. The chamfer represents that part of the blade that is mowed relative to the thickness of the base metal to the point. On new good axes, the chamfer does not need to be corrected, but the old ax with the beveled bevel will simply bounce off the log, and not chop it.

How to sharpen an ax correctly - as a carpenter

Finding a good angle of sharpening is not always easy. Moreover, besides the angle, there is also the shape of the blade. There are three main types of sharpened ax:

• straight( the blade straight lines diverges to the chamfer);
• is oval( the angle of sharpening is intentionally blunt, the lines to the chamfer are convex);
• shaving( the angle of sharpening is very sharp, the lines to the chamfer are hollow).

The first case is the most popular and suitable for most jobs, this grind is sufficient for a sufficient period of time. The second one is used for soft and viscous rocks, it is dull faster. The third is blunted faster than the rest, but its initial results are very encouraging.

The angle of grinding depends on the purpose of the ax. GOST dictates such indicators:

• construction tool 20 - 30 °;
• carpentry 35 °.

However, these indicators, like most GOSTs, are very average. Practice shows that sometimes to improve the productivity of labor should depart from the recommended standards, depending on the type of work expected.

Carpenters recommend:

• firewood chop, chop small trees with an ax with a sharpening angle of 35-40 degrees;
• cutting of large logs, the shaft of thick trees to produce a blade 25-30 degrees.

Another point that we mentioned earlier in passing is the chamfer width. Many people are mistaken that only the blade is important, and the bevel does not affect the quality of the work with an ax, but this is not so. It is the chamfer that ensures the smooth and deep entry of the ax into the wood, so it is necessary that it be in no less manicured form than the blade.

In former times, the axes in which the chamfer was worn were attributed to the blacksmiths, and those corrected the situation by the "pull" method. Today, the forging of the household tool has come to the fore, and it will not be easy to find a specialist ready to perform this work.

You can also give a second life to your ax yourself, using the method of double descent. To do this, sharpen the ax first with a wide strip at a small angle, and after that, once again sharpen only the blades, but already at an acute angle.

How and how to sharpen the ax

You can sharpen the ax manually, you can use the power tool. They use files, grindstone, baked bricks( !), Bulgarian, but if you want to get a really good sharp tool as a result, it's better not to resort to extreme experiments.

The easiest way to apply the electric point is: quickly, like efficiently, not without reason, the progress has been going on. However, it is worth remembering that when heated, the metal of the ax changes its properties, becomes much stronger, but much more fragile. Half an hour of active work with such an ax - and to the electrochemical will have to return to clean the chips.

You can use an electric grindstone, but it is important to observe the precautionary measures:

• include the sharpener only at the minimum speed;
• use only perfectly smooth stone( it is best to have an ax for sharpening an ax);
• ensure that the blade does not overheat;
• can be used to cool water if you are sure that it will not fall into the important elements of the power tool.

Important! In no case do not sharpen the axes with a Bulgarian, from it the metal overheats instantly.

Manually sharpen the blade is also possible, and without the main risk of making the blade fragile. However, in this case the process will be more time-consuming and time-consuming. It will take two stones: with large and small crumbs, a leather belt or felt and patience. Depending on the method( with a double or single descent), and will be sharpened:

1. Walk around the large chamfer for chipping and shaping( for double descent).
2. Rough small irregularities with a stone with fine crumb( for double descent).Take care that the metal is not very heated.
3. Do the same operation at the desired angle with the ax blade.
4. With a belt or felt, grind the sharpened surface to a faultless condition.
5. You can start carpentry.

Important! Before proceeding to the wheelhouse, inspect the ax handle. For a period of time, while the instrument was not used, it could dry out, and with sudden movements, the head will simply fly away from it, presenting a danger to you and others. If the wood has cracked, put the tool for several hours in the water - this will fix the situation.