Repair the ceiling with your own hands

Sooner or later, but the moment comes when the ceiling in the house or apartment loses its aesthetic appearance and needs repair. It must be remembered that the appearance of this element of the room directly affects the entire interior. Even if the walls are decorated with one of the expensive materials, and the ceiling will look sloppy, the entire effect of the repair will be lost.

Repair the ceiling with your own hands - is quite feasible for any owners housing. The main thing - to choose the way that will be able to match the level of work skills and the material capabilities of the owners. And to determine this choice, you need to first consider the process ss pr Preparing the preparatory work, and then - several options for transforming the surface of the ceiling.

However, you must first prepare all the necessary equipment for work.

Tools repair ceiling

Any of the ceilings will require this or that surface repair. For plaster and putty works, you need to prepare tools that will allow you to carry out all the processes quickly and accurately. Do not economize on this and buy cheap low-quality inventory, otherwise you can work well, aligning with compounds.

For work you will need:

• Falcon, on which it will be convenient to hold the solution during the plastering process.
• Trowel or plastering blades for plastering and putty on the surface.
• Graters for mashing with and a lined solution.
• Scrapers for cleaning the ceiling and removing excess solution.
• The rule for aligning the of the applied solution and monitoring the smoothness of the surface.
• Spatulas of different sizes for application and distribution of solution.
• A roller with a long handle for wetting the surface of the ceiling before cleaning and for priming.
• Construction level to control the flatness of the ceiling.
• Brushes or brushes .

In addition to the above, other tools may be required, depending on the choice of material for the ceiling finish.

Preparatory activities

Preparing surfaces for repair and decoration is definitely one of the most unloved processes in the work, but absolutely necessary. On how high it will be produced , depends the durability and aesthetics of the result in the of the remaining works. And , which would the material for the decoration has not been chosen, the preparation of the basis must be carried out necessarily.

Preparatory work includes cleaning the surface, sealing cracks, seams and joints, if they are found, a ceiling primer.

Surface cleaning

It is absolutely necessary to remove the old coating from the ceiling surface if it has at least small cracks or even in places it has become detached from the base and disappears. If this is not done, then the entire work of will go to a scratch, and very soon will have repair to repeat.

• If the ceiling was plastered and whitewashed , then it is well to moisten and remove whitewash with a spatula or rigid sponge. Plaster should be removed completely, if it is covered with cracks during operation, voids appear beneath it.

In the case where the plaster is applied qualitatively, and only in some areas there are delaminations, you can try to clean the base only on damaged plots. When peeled plaster is removed, you need to carefully examine the edges of the remaining coating. If it is found that it is still holding, but there is even a very small gap between it and the base, then the cleaning area will have to be expanded .

• If the ceiling was decorated with ordinary or liquid wallpaper, then they are wetted and scraped off using a spatula, just like whitewashing. The usual wallpaper should be given some time to get wet and lag, then they will shoot much easier. If they are glued qualitatively, their will have to several times, and without waiting for drying, begin cleaning the ceiling.

• If the ceiling was covered with polyurethane or polystyrene tiles, then its dismantling is carried out with a spatula. Remove all the material completely without leaving even small pieces on the surface.

Fixing cracks

Cracks found on the ceiling, exposed interlace seams, as mentioned above, have to seal, but their usual blurring is not will bring qualitative results.

• First, the cracks need to be divided, expand as far as possibly in width and depth. Usually this is spent with a chisel and a hammer, a perforator, and in the series of cases, for example, on the straight junction of two plates, you can resort to a "Bulgarian" with a set circle on the stone. The expansion is necessary in order that the repair composition after filling the crack kept well in it, and it did not manifest again through a new coating of the ceiling.

• The crack, after its extension, you need to clean it clean of dust and pieces of plaster - this is the cp using brushes .
• After this, the cracked crack must be treated with a primer, which will add adhesion surfaces at with its with a stucco coating. Priming is carried out with a brush, along the entire length and depth of the slit.
• Depending on the width and depth of the defect, it can be sealed with sealant, plaster mortar or even with mounting foam.

- If the gap is blocked, then it is necessary to wait until the foam expands and solidifies, and then its excessively gently cut to the level of the surface of the ceiling.

- If sealing with sealant, sealant or repair mortar based on cement or gypsum, if the crack has a large width, then it is recommended to use - fiberglass mesh as a kind of reinforcing "bridge" connecting the two opposite sides of the crack, and notwill reveal this defect through a new decorative coating.

The composition is applied to the surface of the crack with effort, so that it penetrates to the full depth, the must grasping the edges. A serpent is glued to the mortar layer and smoothed. It should be wider than the gap of the crack by about 10 ÷ 15 mm from each side of the defect.

floor slabs. How to fix seams on the ceiling?

If during the removal of plaster it was found that in the joints between the ceiling slabs the old concrete composition crumbles and falls out, then, before repairing the surface of the , it is necessary to repair this flaw.

How to properly carry out work on sealing joints on the ceiling - in a special article of our portal.

Priming of the

ceiling surface The final step in the preparatory work is the surface treatment with the primer - it will be both antiseptic treatment and giving the surface of the high adhesion qualities

If the ceiling shows traces of mold, fungal colonies, then Before applying primer, it is necessary to treat the of the affected area with with a special antifungal agent.

After such treatment, the ceiling should dry well, and only after that it will be possible to proceed to applying the primer. The primer is applied with a roller and evenly distributed over the ceiling surface. In places where it is impossible to cope with a platen( for example, in corners), resort to a brush.

It is recommended to apply two - three primer coats - then it will be well absorbed and create pl enku , which will be an excellent basis for applying leveling plaster coating.

Finishing work

After the surface is repaired and the is primed with , the of its must be leveled before applying the decorative coating, otherwise all the defects will appear through the finishing layers.

The leveling of the ceiling surface can be carried out in various ways by the - with the help of "wet" plaster( putty), or dry - with sheets of plasterboard.

"Wet" plaster

Plaster mixes for "wet" leveling of the ceiling are made on by a different basis. Which one of them is more for a particular case? To do this, you need to consider how this or that mixture of will lead the itself during the application process and during operation. Some characteristics can be found in the proposed table:

The main characteristics of various types of plaster

Properties	Plaster mixture
mineral	acrylic	silicate	silicone
basic substance	cement	acrylic resin	waterglass	silicone resin
vapor permeability	high	low	high	high
Water absorption	high	low	average	low
Susceptibility contamination	medium	high	low	very low
Pigment type	inorganic	inorganics, the organic	inorganic	inorganic, organic
Elasticity	low	high	average	high
Resistance to UV	high	low	high	high
microbiological resistance	average	low	high	high
Abrasion	low	high	High	High
Ozone Resistance	High	Low	High	High

Alignment Ceiling Pitch(putty) is considered the most traditional way, but this method is quite difficult for an unprepared person, and you need to properly adapt to work quickly. You can conduct training on small individual sites - this will provide an opportunity to understand. Whether such an operation will be possible on the entire surface of the ceiling.

If all goes successfully, you can dilute the required amount of the plaster mixture and start working.

How to produce ceiling plastering?

The entire process of the ceiling plastering is described in detail in the portal article, which you can go to by the recommended link.

After plastering , is the final stage of surface leveling with putty mixes. This process ss pr is designed to make the ceiling perfectly smooth.

How to level the ceiling with putty?

Up to this state, it is necessary to decorate the ceiling for painting or under the wallpaper label. For a detailed study of the process leveling the surface of the ceiling with , you can refer to the relevant article of the portal . :

Aligning the ceiling with plasterboard

If there is no certainty that the traditional "wet" plastering of the will pass successfully, then it is possible to use a "dry" technology - the leveling of the surface with drywall sheets - for leveling the ceiling. This approach is good still and the fact that gives the ability to not only make the ceiling even, but also to insulate or to soundproof it.

. In the case where the base of the ceiling is flat enough, without large swings and easily curved fastening elements, the sheets of gypsum board can be mounted directly on its surface. But in this case, insulation and sound insulation are excluded.

Therefore, the most commonly chosen method for fastening drywall on the is a specially prepared frame made from a galvanized metal profile - so it is quite possible for the to even out the most curved ceiling. In addition, between this suspended ceiling and the base can be laid thermal insulation material, which isolates the room from the noise of the upper apartment or will insulate the room of a private house.

The frame falls below the surface of the base by a maximum of 100 ÷ 150 mm, and if the ceilings are low, then the metal crate can be lowered only by 50 ÷ 70 mm.

The work of is carried out by in the following order:

• First the surface is marked out, and the lines along which the guides will be fixed are marked. It is most convenient to perform the marking with the painted .Two points are measured on the two sides of the room, between which string is tightened, then its is delayed, taking for about its middle and release. Thus, on the ceiling, the remaining is a repainted color, absolutely flat strip.

The perpendicular lines are the same way. A large cell with a size of, as a rule, 600 × 600 mm is produced on the ceiling. The extreme elements of the lath must pass at a distance of 50 ÷ 70 mm from the walls.

• Next, in the middle of the two parallel sides of each square fixed metal hangers, to which will be screwed metal profiles.

To the concrete ceiling, the suspensions are nailed using two dowels in advance in the drilled holes.

• fixed to it. The guides are fixed to the required level with the aid of self-tapping screws. In this case, the horizontality of the profile to be installed must be carefully controlled. During the installation process, it is also verified that the adjacent profiles are correctly positioned at the same height - for this, the also uses the construction level.
• The next step is to install jumpers on the marked sides of the square. Cut lengths from the profile. They are attached to the longitudinal guiding special elements - "crabs", which will combine the entire crate into a single structure with a precisely calibrated lower level.

At the end of the of the wireframe installation, the ceiling should be, approximately such a picture.

• The next stage is the electrical wiring to the locations of the ceiling fixtures. The wires will then be hidden by gypsum plasterboard.

• Further, on crate is screwed with self-tapping sheets of gypsum board. Fasten the in 200 mm increments, so that the screw is not closer than 10 ÷ 15 mm from the edge of the sheet. The heads of self-tapping screws should be drowned in the thickness of of

material for 1 ÷ 1.5 mm. Installation of large sheets of drywall should be performed at least with two , as they are heavy and can break with lifting to the height. One constantly supports the sheet, and the second spins screws using screwdriver .

If there is no helper, will have cutting gypsum boards to small fragments that will cover each square of the crate separately. In this case, the work can be delayed, since will have to process a large number of docking seams.

When installing cut fragments of gypsum cardboard along its edges a chamfer must be removed - this is necessary for high-quality sealing of seams.

• After the installation of the drywall, all the seams between the slabs have to be sealed.

Proce ss pr is usually primed putty mixture using a grid-serpyan( usual, which is drowned in a freshly applied layer of putty, or has its own adhesive base).

In addition, with putty put on all the holes with self-tapping heads, otherwise they may show rust through the decorative finish.

• The next stage is the finishing putty gypsum board ceiling with final alignment until the ideal surface is obtained.

surface is carried out. After drying, the ceiling is carefully ground, primed, and then it can be painted or trimmed with wallpaper.

Video: ceiling leveling with gypsum plasterboard

Ceiling painting

Ceiling painting today is not as popular as before, as many other modern materials are made for its decoration. However, many hosts prefer t t radial methods to bring surfaces into order.

Before painting, the ceiling needs to be well primed and only after it has dried can you proceed with painting.

Ceiling baseboards can be glued to the joints of the wall and ceiling after painting the surfaces. However, if they are already glued, then they should be covered with paint tape and paint the joint between them and the ceiling, as well as a distance of about 100 ÷ 150 mm with a brush. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with paint with a roller.

It will be more convenient to work if the roller is fastened to the long boom - the paint can be applied to the ceiling while standing on the floor. At this distance, you can clearly see whether the coloring composition is flat on the surface.

After the first coat of paint has been applied, the ceiling must be allowed to dry, as only on the dry surface can the quality of the coating be seen. If necessary, is applied on top of the first layer one more, in the same way as the first one.

For ceiling, plastered with a "wet" plaster, usually chosen enamel or oil paint, and for surfaces of gypsum board, water-based paints are best suited.

How do I paint the ceiling?

Which particular composition is better for using for the - ceiling coloring can be found in the portal article entirely devoted to this topic.

Sheathing ceiling with plastic panels

Some apartment owners prefer to trim the ceiling with plastic panels. They can be fixed directly to the ceiling if it is sheathed with plywood or boards, but for them the is suitable and the same lath , as it is mounted for gypsum board, made of metal zinc-plated profiles or wooden blocks fixed on the ceiling surface oron suspensions.

• If the panels will be installed on a wooden crate , then it is more convenient to mount them using special mounting clamps with small studs or staples.

• On metal profiles plastic lining it is necessary to screw in with short screws with wide hats.

• self-tapping To ensure that the liner looks neat, the end( starting) bar is screwed or nailed to the entire perimeter of the ceiling, at the same level.

When it is fixed, the installation of plastic panels begins, which are installed in the of its groove.

• The first panel should be installed as smoothly as possible, the side panel and the end faces inserted in the starting slats. Thorns on the panels are driven into the grooves of the already installed elements tightly and to the stop, and if the first panel is installed with a bevel, then all the others will repeat the its direction.

• panel. It is possible to encounter the with the with the problem when installing the last panel of the lining, since it needs to be installed in the groove of the previous panel and placed in the end lath with the of the three sides. It is recommended first to combine the panel with the already installed, and then slip the onto its end plate.

Video: how to decorate the ceiling with plastic panels

Paste wallpaper

Stick wallpaper on the - ceiling is not so just as seems at first glance, because this cp process is not very convenient, but to maintain the flatness of the bars whenthis - is necessary. If the experience does not exist on the sticker, it is recommended that you select an material in which the does not need to combine the drawing, because it is much more difficult to glue such wallpaper.

If the material is purchased exactly as much as needed for the ceiling surface and there is no stock, you can practice on the remains of old wallpaper or buy for getting the practice of roll of the most cheap , and then tryglue one or two strips to the ceiling. Such training will help to get a little experience and not to spoil the more expensive stuff.

• When starting work, you need to close all windows and doors so that there are no drafts in the room, otherwise the wallpaper will be on the floor the next day.
• It is better to paste the wallpaper in the in the with the double, because the --coated -liner suffices heavy , and under its weight can simply tear. In this case, the masters stand up one after the other, the first is the presenter, is engaged in gluing and leveling, and the second is supporting the non-glued still with the side of the canvas. Both are moved back forward on frequently installed stools or specially built by platform.

In the case when the assistant was not found, there is a proven method that will help you to do the work yourself.

This can be helped by a round roller, which is equal to the width of a roll of wallpaper - , as a rule, it is 500 ÷ 600 mm. If not, will carve its from the bar or find, for example, a shovel from the shovel, cutting it to the desired size. For the most extreme case, you can come up with an old roll of wallpaper, which you need to wrap with an adhesive tape.

• You need to start the work with the soak of the glue, according to the instructions given on the package.
• While the glue is soaked, the length of the room is measured out and the necessary number of sheets is cut. Making measurements, you need to take into account some of the nuances:

- wallpaper will be pasted;

- the first and last sheet should go to the wall all over the its length and width by 100 mm;

- the remaining wallpaper sheets need to be measured 200 mm more than the length of the room, since they too must find the on the walls on the 100 mm on each side;

- if you select wallpapers that require alignment according to the pattern, this should be taken into account when cutting off the stripes, by calculating the pattern pitch.

• Wallpapers are glued to the primed and dried surface.
• On the first sheet to be glued first , the angle is cut, so that the fabric can freely bend and be found with one side on the wall along its entire length, and its ends fall on two opposite walls by 100 mm.
• Then the notched sheet and the are still two sheets alternately are laid out on the table and are well greased with glue. Having smeared the sheet, it is folded with an accordion, drawing outwards, without pressing it on the corners. The folds should be approximately 500 ÷ 600 mm.
• While the glue is impregnating the paper, it is necessary to apply a layer of glue to the ceiling and walls for sticking one sheet with the roller on the rod. Joints and angle should be smeared with a brush.
• Then folded cloth hang on the rolling pin, rise with it under the ceiling, holding the left accordion.
• The sticker of the canvas starts from the wall, sticking it to 100 mm, squeezed well in a corner, begins to paste and spread on the ceiling and parallel to it the wall. All this work will have with one right hand, as the left one will be occupied by a rolling pin with an accordion from the wallpaper.
• On the ceiling, the canvas must be carefully leveled, trying to squeeze out all the glue and air from under it. It is best to do so, the of the so-called " herringbone " - in the middle, along the section of the cloth with a soft cloth the strip is carefully drawn, and from it is glued to the sides.

It should be remembered that when gluing the first strip, the main - well spread out the part that is on the ceiling and on the walls along the width of the canvas, and the segment found on the side wall can be trimmed later.

To make a bend on the walls of the desired size, it is recommended that they be repelled in advance by equal strips - they will be easier to navigate.

• The following strips are glued to the back with the previous fabric. The edges need to be carefully "pulled up" to each other, to smooth out their surface with a soft cloth, removing immediately surplus glue. It is necessary for to monitor so that no air bubbles remain under the wallpaper. For their removal on each of the canvas, you can walk a rubber roller, fixed on the rod.
• After gluing the entire surface, windows and doors can not be opened until the wallpaper is completely dry.

Video: useful tips on pasting the ceiling with wallpaper

We can not help saying that in addition to the usual wallpaper, so-called liquid wallpapers that are able to hide some small flaws in the ceiling are often bought or produced recently. It's nice to work with them and the is just , so anyone can put them on the walls and ceiling with , even a beginner master, after a little training. They can not damage the surface, as they can easily be removed with a spatula and even put them back into operation.

Already heard about the liquid wallpaper?

If readers are interested in this option, then a lot of interesting information on how you can independently manufacture liquid wallpaper and produce their stickers on any surface can be found in a special article of the portal.

Pasting of the ceiling with light plastic tiles

Another one option for ceiling decoration is the installation of polyurethane or expanded polystyrene tiles on it. Various types of such finishing material are produced, therefore it is easy to choose a tile according to a relief pattern and according to the coloring for any interior style.

Unlike wallpaper, its is quite easy to mount alone, because it has very little weight. For better adhesion of the ceiling in front of the with its sticker, as with other decorative coatings, the is also treated with a primer.

• To ensure that the tile is glued neatly, markings are made on the ceiling. It can be different, but if a chandelier is to be hung in the room, it should become the " reference point" to determine the location of the tiles.
• Which would be the location method was chosen, two perpendicular lines intersecting at the surface of the ceiling intersect at the point where the chandelier will be hung. Being guided by the lines, it will be easy to carry out installation according to any scheme of tile arrangement.

• . The installation of the tile always starts from the intersection of the lines. Under the chandelier in each of the four tiles are cut openings of the desired size. When they are combined on the ceiling, a square or circle is formed, in the center of which the chandelier will hang.
• Next, the tiles are fixed strictly on the broken lines, and the next rows will be leveled by the first, already glued tiles.
• For gluing tiles, an alcohol-based polymer glue is usually used, which is applied pointwise to the edges of the tile. Glue points should be located at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from each other.

• Next, the tiles are pressed against the surface and adhere to one ÷ two minutes - this should be enough that it reliably was kept on the ceiling surface. If individual elements begin to lag behind in some places, then their should still be held by the .

• The final stage, which will give the ceiling a complete look, is the installation of ceiling skirting boards. They are glued on the joint of the ceiling and the wall or only on the ceiling. Acquiring this element, you need to immediately determine how the skirting board will be installed, since it has different profiles, depending on how and where it will be stuck.

Video: a visual lesson on the sticker of plastic tiles on the ceiling

There are many other ways to decorate the ceiling surface. However, if this prototype is ana- lyzed to be produced alone, then it is necessary to choose exactly this technology that will prove to be the owner of the housing under the force. Any task will be feasible if the is successfully completed, as well as doing all the work in a hurry,relying on the instructions received.