Installing an acrylic bath yourself

Repair in the bathroom is coming to an end, the sewerage and water pipes are ready, the tiles are laid out, it remains to install the plumbing? It is easiest to install an acrylic bath with or without hydro massage. And acrylic is a very strong and pleasant to the touch material, which is easy to clean for a long time, keeps heat for a long time and is a worthy alternative to steel and cast iron.

How to choose the right bath? To begin with, measure the room and determine whether it is more convenient to install a classic rectangular model or to give preference to a compact but more expensive corner bath.

Also, when choosing, it is worth paying attention to the country and the company that produces plumbing. Quality acrylic fiber reinforced and has a thickness of 5-8 mm. On the sides, look at the number of reinforcing layers. There are several such beds in a quality bath, and very few in a low-grade bath. You can not save on quality, because there is a big risk that a cheap thin bath can not withstand the pressure of water or temperature and burst.

Good acrylic bathtubs are odorless, have a smooth surface, and there are no bumps and dents on the bottom. It is advisable to purchase a bath with a set of fasteners and a siphon, ideally suited for a specific model of sanitary ware.

Video -How to choose an acrylic bath

T ABLE 1. Certain variants of acrylic baths and their value

Manufacturer	Country	Size( DhShhG), see	Description Model Options		Estimated cost, rub
Aquanet	Russian	160h100h49	Corner asymmetric. Jamaica	Draining and frame	20 000
Vidima	Bulgaria	140х70х40	Rectangular. Sirius	Set of legs and fasteners( +3 000 rubles)	10 700
Cersanit	Poland	150х150х45	Angular symmetrical universal. CERSANIA	( Set of legs and front panel + 4 000 rubles)	17 500
Appollo	China	150х75х42	Rectangular with holes for handles. TS-1502Q	Frame, front panel, handles and legs( + 5 900 rubles)	8 900
Triton	Russia	170х96х50	Asymmetric, hydromassage. Milena	Front panel( + 3 000 rubles)	50 500

Acrylic bath can be installed in one of four ways:

• on the factory metal frame;
• on wooden bars;
• for bricks or foam blocks;
• using both a frame and bricks.
  

  Combination bath installation

The latter option is acceptable in case the height of the legs does not allow the installation of sewerage wiring. Wooden elements, however, are undesirable, since wood is deformed from moisture.

Attention! If you plan to install a whirlpool bath, pre-install the electrical wiring and install the outlet.

We install a rectangular bath on the factory frame

frame Step 1. The purchased bath and the factory frame are printed and laid out on a clean floor, pre-laying a soft cloth or cardboard. In the set of fasteners you will find short and long metal profiles, screws, legs and lining for them( thrusts), dowels, pins, washers, nuts, racks. Depending on the configuration, the number of parts can be different, for example, in the reinforced frame there is more metal profiles or the bath is delivered immediately with an all-welded frame.

The holes are usually drilled in the valve and dowels are inserted. This eliminates the need to make markings and self-drill holes.

Acrylic bathtubs in their majority are installed not only on the frame, but also fixed along the line of abutment to the walls by metal hook-suspenders.

If there is no drain valve in the kit, it must be purchased, taking into account the height of the legs and comparing it with the dimensions of the siphon.

For work, you will always need a screwdriver, wrenches and pliers. Also, do not forget about the silicone-based sealant, bubble level, tape measure and pencil.

Step 2. We begin with the assembly of the frame and legs. We turn the bath, without removing the protective film from the inner surface. We provide easy access to either side of the bowl.

Using long self-tapping screws, join the profiles. We rely on the instruction attached to the acrylic bath and the correspondence of the holes in the longitudinal reinforcement with the dowels installed in the cross bars.

Assembled frame is located exactly in the center of the bottom of the bath.

Step 3. Let's move on to setting the legs. Three pieces set on the front edge of the bath, two - under the bottom of the bowl and two more at the edge, which will be adjacent to the wall.

We begin to fasten the racks with the profile and the side of the bath. We fix the stand on the side, screw the first long hairpin into it, and on the pin - the nut. The resulting pin with a stand is inserted into the hole of the longitudinal metal profile. We fix the hairpin with a nut and a lock nut. From above we fasten the plastic thrust bearing.

Similarly, we collect the remaining leg legs. Adjust the height of the legs, depending on the size of the decorative screen. Approximate height from the floor to the edge of the rim should be 60 cm.

For the legs located under the bottom of the bath, short pins are intended. We insert them into the holes of the transverse profiles, fix them with nuts and screw plastic supports.

Step 4. Check the assembled frame with a bubble level.

If necessary, tighten the studs with a spanner, aligning the position.

Take short screws and fasten the racks to the sides of the bath.

Step 5. Turn the bath. We take the level and once again we recheck the horizontality of the sides. Do not deviate for better drainage of water.

Step 6. Now you can connect the siphon with overflow, based on the manufacturer's instructions. The general principle of connecting knee type audit siphons is as follows:

• for a bathtub siphon there are two main parts - large and small( see figure).On the "small part" part, first put a plastic nut( on the area with an external thread), then a rubber seal of blue color;
  

  Separated siphon

• The "small part" part is inserted into the "most part" part so that the external thread enters the internal thread. We twist the nut all the way. Note that even with a well-twisted nut, the "small part" will rotate on its axis, this will position the corrugation in a position convenient for us;
  

  The connection of

• parts to the "most" parts is another plastic nut. We put in this nut a rubber sealer of black color. Take that part of the siphon, which will be attached to the opening of the bath. We connect a detail, twisting a nut;
  

  Connection of parts

  

  Connection of parts

• we take a cover of revision and, having connected it with a sealant, we fasten to the bottom aperture of a detail "the most part"( an overflowing knee).If the siphon becomes clogged, it can be cleaned by unscrewing this revision cover;
• in the bottom hole of the bath we put the seal. Above( inside the bowl of the bath) we lay a lattice of metal. We put the assembled element under the bottom of the bath. We insert the bolt into the grid hole and tighten so that the siphon under the bottom of the bath tightly adjacent to the drain hole of the bowl;
  

  Attaching the siphon to the bath

  

  Attaching the corrugations

• is also done with the upper opening of the overflow, inserting the seal of blue color, grating, connecting them with a bolt. We connect the lower part of the siphon and the upper opening of the overflow with a thin corrugation, putting the nuts and seals on the ends of the corrugation and screwing them on the indicated elements until it stops;
• thick corrugation, which will later be connected to sewerage, is connected to a siphon using a nut and a seal.
  

  Connection of corrugations

Please note! Before the final installation of the bath and the screen, it is possible to warm the bottom of the bowl with mounting foam, applying it with a thin trickle to the sides, bottom and partially grasping the fastening elements for the purpose of their additional fixation. Step 7 .When the siphon is assembled and the bath is level, it remains to make markings on the walls, drill holes and fix the brackets or hooks on the wall that will hold the bath. The edge of the tub is put on these hooks, and the free end of the thick siphon corrugations is inserted into the sewer opening. After docking, in place of abutting the bath to the wall, we apply a strip of silicone sealant and attach a plinth or protective strip.

Please Note! To check the quality of the installation of the siphon and the correct installation of the structure, you should collect a full bath of cold water and wait a few hours. If leaks or distortions are not found, you can drain the water, install a decorative screen and use the bathroom. Otherwise, it will be necessary to disassemble and assemble all products in order to eliminate defects.

Step 8. Install the decorative screen. Clip mounts are included. First, the upper fastenings are screwed on, after which the opposite fasteners are lower. The decorative panel simply "snaps" on them.

bracket You can also make a skeleton for the decorative panel of wooden bars or metal profiles.

Install the bath on the bricks

No factory frame? No problem! We can install the acrylic bath on the bricks. This option is even more reliable in comparison with the method of installing a bath on a prefabricated frame.

The support can be solid or columnar.

Installation of a bath on a solid brick substrate

The first step. Temporarily install the bath in the place of its future installation and project a drain hole onto the base. This will enable us to leave a gap in the substrate to connect the drain.

The second step. Lay the bricks on the area of ​​the entire supporting part of the tank. We select the height so that the sides of the bath rise no more than 600 mm above the floor. In this regard, we take into account that we will still have a 2-3-cm pillow made of polyurethane foam.

Bricks are laid on a traditional cement mortar.

The third step. We collect a framework of sheet plywood around the perimeter of the brickwork. The height of such sheets should exceed the masonry by the thickness of the foam substrate. Do not forget to leave the drain hole unfilled.

Fourth step. Evenly we foam the surface of the substrate with polyurethane foam, without leaving the frame. On the foam immediately apply pre-prepared sheet plywood. We use moisture resistant sheets with a thickness of 10 mm.

The fifth step is .Tightly clog the acrylic bath drain. At the same stage, we prepare about a liter of water and wooden supports to adjust the level of installation of the tank.

The sixth step. Pour the previously prepared water into the container and expose the bath on the substrate by the building level.

The seventh step. While the polyurethane foam has not solidified, we adjust the evenness of the bath installation with the help of the supports. As a result, the water in the tank should be evenly distributed around the sink, and the level should show "0".

The eighth step. After setting the bath level, pour water into it about half the volume. Under the weight of water, the foam can not lift the tank, and the bath itself will take the desired slope.

The ninth step of the .Let the foam dry and remove the bath. If the edges of the container should be recessed in the wall, first outline the contour of the edge, and then make a groove in the wall for the edge of the bath. The perforator will help us in this. If the arrangement of the groove is not provided( this is not recommended if the walls are made of blocks, plasterboard or other light material), at the level of the lower cut we just fix the bar impregnated with antiseptic, or the steel corner. The supporting bar at the end is additionally strengthened with stops.

The tenth step. Return our container to the site and connect it to the sewer. Slots between the capacity and bricks blow out foam. We install a decorative screen and plinth.

Installing an acrylic bath on brick supports

The first step. We put the tank in the bathroom.

The second step. We perform the marking of the base in the place where the brick supports are installed. The most correct option - the construction of poles closer to the edges of the bend of the acrylic bath. If the capacity is long, an additional support can be erected in the middle.

The third step. Having planned places of masonry of support, we start to prepare cement mortar. Too much is not prepared - we have to lay out no more than 20 bricks, so we do not need any extra expenses.

The fourth step. We begin to laying. The support for the back of the bath is laid out at a height of 190 mm, the column for the front edge of the container is erected at 170 mm. The height of the middle support, if it is needed, is selected according to the situation, depending on the design of the installed bath. The difference in height of the pillars will ensure conditions for efficient drain of water from the tank.

Important note! Many acrylic baths of modern design initially have an inclined bottom to ensure the flow of water. If you have such a bath, we support all supports by level, focusing on the upper part. The fifth step. Give the clutch about a day to dry and install a bath. We put the capacity slowly, tightly moving to the walls. Gaps between the bricks and the bathroom fill the sealant.

If desired, you can additionally fix the bath to the wall with dowels and a metal profile. Such fastening is rarely used, but still occurs.

After verifying the correctness, stability and evenness of the installation of the bath, we connect the sewage system, install the mixer, mount the decorative screen and lay the plinth on the bath.

Video - Installing an acrylic bath by the combined method

Video - How to install an acrylic bath yourself

Video - Put an acrylic bath yourself