Sooner or later, there comes a time when you can not postpone repairing the bathroom in any way, as the tile or wallpaper on the walls lost its appearance, or worse, the started to fall behind the surface , and the metal pipes rusted. The desire to transform the bathroom becomes stronger, the more often you notice the sale of the most modern materials that can turn an unsightly, dilapidated room into a neat euro-class room.
Repairs of the bathroom with their own hands
Repairs of the bathroom with their own hands - is a large enough, but still quite feasible exercise, if you follow the instruction and perform all types of work in stages. Given that that repair materials cost expensive , and practice shows cost of work will cost , at least , half the price of materials, it is necessary to put your own forces and save a very decent amount.
General workflow
Contents of the article
- 1 General workflow
- 2 Repair planning and acquisition of the required
- 2.1 Drawing up a draft design
- 2.2 Pipes for the bathroom
- 2.3 Ceramic tiles
- 2.4 PVC panels
- 2.5 Tools
- 3 Preparation of premises and maintenancework
- 3.1 Dismantling of plumbing
- 3.2 Surface cleaning
- 3.3 Cutting of pipe fittings and installation of pipes
- 3.4 Gasket eektroprovodki
- 3.5 walls Processing
- 3.6 floor Waterproofing
- 3.7 «warm floor" in the bathroom
- 3.8 Alignment walls
- 3.9 Install furring
- 4 finishing
- 4.1 Ceiling
- 4.2 Paul
- 4.3 Video: tile way of usingplastic clamps
- 4.4 Wall finishing
- 4.5 Video: repair in the bathroom using PVC panels
- 4.6 Completion - installation of plumbing
- 4.7 Video: repair in the bathroom - allowance for the beginningIf you decide to carry out repairs yourself in the bathroom, you first need to understand the sequence of construction work:
- You should start with planning. It is possible to draw up a sketch of the room and display in that I would like to receive after repair, including in the scheme all planned for the installation of plumbing products and accessories.
In this issue, you need to take into account that the old bath can be replaced with a new one, but there is an option and just update the of its with an acrylic tab. In addition, if the area of the room is very small, but its wants to make it more spacious, then instead of a standard bath, you can install a shower enclosure complete with a corner sitting bath.
Such a test estimate will help to determine approximately the scale of the work in progress, with repair and finishing technologies, with the amount of materials required, with an approximate time frame for the entire planned volume of the .Undoubtedly, in the course of the work, certain changes will most likely be introduced into the general plan. In many respects it will depend on the condition of the floor, walls, ceiling, pipes, and to see all this "beauty", it is necessary to dismantle the old one.
- Thus, the next step can be to remove the old finish and dismantle the old, unnecessary plumbing.
At this stage bath in any case must be removed and removed from this room, so it does not become an obstacle for repair and finishing works.
- After dismantling, it is necessary to clean the building of construction debris. After cleaning, it is necessary to check the walls and the floor for condition( for example, to understand the need for a complete replacement of the coating, or to be limited to repairing loose or exfoliated areas, cracks, cracks and , .) Anything that does not inspires is subject tocompulsory removal.
- The premises are then measured and, based on them, the calculation is performed and a list of necessary materials, consumables, tools , accessories is made.
Next, with the list drawn up, which should include plumbing fixtures, pipes with all components, materials for construction and finishing works, you need to go to a specialized shop. We do not forget that finishing materials are usually purchased with a small reserve - about 15 % .
- The walls, floor and ceiling surfaces are repaired( if necessary).
- New water and sewage routes are laid. For this, it may be necessary to cut of shrouds with their subsequent sealing after the installation of pipes.
- If you plan to supply power points( installation of outlets), for them similar manipulations with slot cutting , cable laying in corrugated and subsequent sealing are performed.
- Work on preparation of wall and floor surfaces for finishing works is carried out - waterproofing plastering, filling, screed filling and , .At the same stage, you can think over the placement of ventilation ducts, the installation of decorative boxes, which will help to hide the piping.
- Next, the work on decorative decoration of the room is consistently performed. The usual order is from the top down, that is, the ceiling → walls → floor. In some cases, you can change this order, for example, the installation of a false ceiling → the installation of ceramic tiles on the floor → the decoration of walls with washable wallpaper or plastic lining.
- The next important stage of the is the plumbing installation with the appropriate sealing of all components and junctions, connection of household appliances( washing machine, shower cubicle and , .).
- And, finally, in the end, attach and hang out all the characteristic accessories for the bathroom - mirrors, hangers, cabinets, shelves and , .
Even the list of works performed is quite impressive. And now will get acquainted with the listed items closer.
Planning of repair and acquisition of the required
Drawing out a draft design of the
The sketch of the bathroom is best done in color to visually assess what should happen. If is not yet yet of the exact pattern of tile that should be installed on walls, then you can sketch the rough ornament or at least its color, and if shades somewhat their distribution according to falsification.
Without a preliminary sketch, it will be difficult to work
. Of course, immediately it is planned to install all large items of sanitary ware - a bath, a wash basin, a toilet bowl( with a combined arrangement of the bathroom).It is possible that will find an space for a shower cubicle. Sometimes there is a washing machine in the bathroom( it's justifiably quiet when there is good ventilation in the room, preventing the accumulation of dampness).All this is also put on the diagram.
It is necessary to determine the location of the lighting points in the room - ceiling . possible, local in the mirror area. This is important from the point of view of interior design, and for installation works - here you need to wire cables.
Immediately in the figure "virtually" are arranged and posted all the little things, without which no bathroom can not do.
It is such a detailed sketch and st pr unit about what the room will look like, will provide an opportunity to change something or correct it, as it is better to do this in the figure, before commencing work, than to finish the repair and be disappointed in the interior.
Based on the compiled sketch and on the layout of the bath room, the calculates the number of required materials.
With a list of the required quantity and size, you can go to the store to buy building materials. Acquiring the necessary, it is necessary to get acquainted with the operational characteristics of the product - it is not necessary to save on the quality of finishing or plumbing, because cheap low-grade materials and products will last for a short time, losing respectable appearance or causing small and large accidents.
Pipes for bathroom
As a rule, old metal tubes installed many decades ago and having long served their service life are required replacement. It does not make any sense to change them to steel - it is both expensive and uncomfortable in delivery and installation, and besides , according to current concepts - not too much and is reliable . As there are much more acceptable variants of - for example polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.
Metal-plastic pipes - only for external laying
It is necessary to remember that metal-plastic pipes are suitable only for open, not hidden in the wall of water distribution, as metal compression fittings are a fairly vulnerable place where pipes can leak sooner or later.
bonded by high-quality welding polypropylene can be safely hidden in shrouds walls and cover them with any of the decorative finishing materials, since after the docking of individual elements almost monolithic construction is formed. A wide range of shaped products for polypropylene water pipes - couplings, tees, expansion joints, adapters, bends, valves and , . - allows you to perform a system installation of almost any level of complexity.
Polypropylene pipes can be safely walled into the wall
And , special qualifications for performing such installation work is not required. The only problem that can arise - is the need to have a special welding machine. If there is no such owner in the "home arsenal", then you can use the services of building salons-shops or specialized enterprises that give welding equipment for PP for rent.
Details about the selection rules and installation of polypropylene pipes you can learn on the portal in a specially dedicated to this article.
Ceramic tiles
The choice of ceramic tiles is a matter of sufficient serious , requiring of accounting of a range of criteria. In order not to repeat, it is possible to refer the reader to the publication in which tile classification is covered in detail by .
Bathroom tile should be chosen correctly
With still must be remembered.
Ceramic tiles for finishing the surfaces of the floor and walls are divided by grade, which the manufacturer must necessarily indicate on the packaging. According to international standards, the first grade is marked in red, the second grade - is blue, and the third - is green .
Ceramic tile grades are usually signed in different colors
- If you look at the first-class tile its can be encountered with 5% of the deviations from the norm, and this is considered quite acceptable.
- Buying a second grade of tile, defects can be found on as much as 25% of the total amount of material.
- Having taken the solution to save and buy the third one with rt pl weft, then do not be surprised if each tile in the batch will have one or another degree of deviation from the established standard.
Tile necessarily take with a small margin. The work does not exclude accidental marriage when laying, fighting tiles. But to pick up the missing amount so that the hue is completely consistent - sometimes becomes impossible.
For flooring, it is best to buy ceramic tiles or special floor tiles. These types of material have high strength and rough surface, which is very important for the bathroom.
Floor tile
When purchasing several packs, it is necessary to check the batch number on each package. And for greater confidence, you can pull out one - two tiles from each package of and make sure that the shade is in accordance with the quality of the material. The uniformity of the size of the tiles is verified by by folding between 2 ÷ 4 pairs of tiles. If the difference is not more than one millimeter, and the color to small details corresponds to the lot, then the tile can be taken.
When choosing a tile for rooms with high humidity, it is necessary to pay attention to more one criterion - is the presence on the glazed surface of microcracks, dots or microarrays. Such flaws , although and seem insignificant, but enough are serious from a hygienic point of view. Practically imperceptible cracks will soon become a real problem - if in them gets moisture and dirt, then the surface will no longer be cleaned, and damp will become a hotbed of fungus. Therefore, a tile with such undesirable defects should be rejected, and it is better even to contact another seller.
PVC panels
PVC panels will help to "revive" the bathroom interior
Very good option for facing the ceiling and walls in the bathroom - decorative PVC panels. They, as a rule, are produced in length 2400 ÷ 3700 mm, with a width of 125 ÷ 300 mm, and their thickness is from 8 to 12 mm. This is a convenient size for installation in a tight bathroom. PVC panels are quite hygienic, and therefore are in demand for plating walls of premises with high humidity. The panels are usually installed on the crate of wooden rails or galvanized profiles, but on perfectly flat walls they can be glued directly to the surface.
With smooth walls, PVC panels can be mounted on tile adhesive
Panel connection is the same as for all types of lining - for account of the presence of locks of the spike-groove. To crate the material is fixed secretly with the help of screws or staples.
For the installation of panels P VX pr special profile elements are considered - inner and outer corners, starting and finishing strips and .
Tools
In order to carry out repairs in the bathroom, you probably need a complete set of households of hand and electric tools , like of general profile, and with building specifics. Depending on the type of finish, special tools and tools may be required.
So, for the laying of ceramic tiles you will need cogged spatulas with different tooth heights - for walls and floors, tile cutter with diamond cutter( manual, as a glass cutter or machine type), diamond bit drills or drill-ballerinka - for cutting holes in the tile for pipes.
Preparation of premises and repair work
Dismantling of sanitary ware
The first thing to do - is to dismantle and to remove from the premises all large sanitary products and devices, appliances of household appliances. Of course, before the beginning of this phase, the supply of cold and hot water is completely blocked.
The dirtiest stage of work is the dismantling of all old and dilapidated
- So, a washbasin and a washing machine are dismantled. All removed devices and devices are taken out of the bathroom. If the bathroom is combined with a bathroom, then the toilet is dismantled.
- The old bathroom is removed and taken out. It can subsequently be replaced by on the new or restored. Surface restoration is carried out using special formulations or by installation of an acrylic liner.
- Next, old cold and hot water pipes are curled or cut. If the sewer pipe is in normal condition, its can not be touched by the , but if plans to hide the pipes in the wall, then the sewer pipe is removed at the entrance of its into the bathroom, and the of its hole is closed with a lid.
Having finished with the dismantling of old plumbing and piping, you can proceed to cleaning the ceiling and walls.
Cleaning surfaces
- If the bathroom ceiling is not is damaged by mold, and in the future will be treated with PVC panels, which will be fixed to the wooden crate , its surface can not be particularly ennobled. In the event that there are clear signs of the surface of the ceiling being affected by mold or fungus, the old coating should still be removed - up to the concrete surface .
- Old ceramic tiles are knocked off walls and floors. It is dismantled using a perforator, delivered only to impact, and a flat chisel nozzle, or manually by - using a conventional chisel, hammer. From the floor begin to lift the old tiles in the same way as from the walls, and then change the puncher to the mount.
- If the walls were glued wallpaper, they are abundantly moistened with water, and then removed using a spatula.
- Whitewash from the walls can be removed by flushing or soaking, followed by removal with a spatula.
Removing an old paint by a hair dryer
- If the walls are painted and tiles are to be laid on them, the paint should be removed using a construction hair dryer or grinder with an iron brush . As a last resort , it is possible to be limited to drawing of a frequent notch on a surface of walls, however it is better not to be captivated and get rid of a paint completely - quality of fastening of a tile from it only will win.
The result of the first stage of preparing a bathroom for repair should be well-cleaned walls, ceiling and floor. On their surface there should be no traces of old glue for tiles and wallpaper.
All garbage from the room should be immediately taken out, and on the floor it is recommended to conduct dust removal - with the help of a powerful construction vacuum cleaner or, if this is not possible - by carrying out several consecutive wet cleanings.
slotting and installation of
pipes In an empty and pre-cleaned room, you can proceed to shrouting walls and install new water and sewer pipes.
Pipes harnessed in stitches
- The slot of the shrouds is produced with a grinder with a circle around the stone, and a puncher, according to the pre-marked places on the walls.
- Pipes are mounted from their entrance to the bathroom and are diverted to the mixer connection points, bathtub and sinks, to other "water outlets", for example, for the toilet flush tank or for supplying water to the washing machine.
- When installing a sewer pipe ( usually in a bath using a Ø 50 mm PP pipe) it must be taken into account that it must be located under the slope towards the central riser pipe. It should be extended for the washing machine located at a distance from the sink or bathtub. If it is possible to install a washing machine next to the washbasin, a tee( 45 °) is installed on the sewage pipe, into which both drains are connected.
Joint connection to the sewer siphon of the sink and drain hose of the washing machine
- The pipes laid in the chimneys are filled with the - installation foam for the beginning and will become an additional protection against heat losses( for the hot water pipe) and condensation on the surface. Then, after the foam solidifies, its excess is cut off, and a large layer of plaster solution is applied from above.
Wiring harness
To lay the electrical cable under the ceramic tile , you will also have sewing .For safety reasons, the wires must be well insulated( the best option is VVGng ), and also , they are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.
Shtroby and cable laying in corrugated pipe
Wires are laid to those parts of the surface of walls and ceiling where lighting fixtures and sockets will be installed( if they are provided).
Strebs , just like in the case of water pipes, are frosted , and then plastered.
If the walls are to be paneled on laths, the wires are also laid in the corrugated pipe, but having them between the guides - do sewing in this case is not required.
After mounting of the wiring, is performed validation of its connection, and then it must be disabled from the switchboard until the completion of all construction and finishing works in the bathroom. Exception - you can leave the ceiling lighting connection point, but with all the required security measures.
After the layer of plaster on top of the fittings fixed on about t t rub and the wires completely solidifies, you can proceed to the treatment of walls and waterproofing works.
Wall treatment
Since in the bathroom it is always "by definition" the humidity is increased, it is not surprising that the joints of the walls and ceiling surfaces can very often be covered with black mold points. In order to such spots do not expand, they must be removed with a special tool.
One of the samples of the mold remedy
After the layer of "medicinal" composition has dried, an antiseptic primer is applied to the walls and ceiling. It will impregnate the walls and will not only provide additional protection against various fungal formations, but will also create ideal conditions for adhesion of adhesive compounds to the wall.
Primer is applied with a roller or a wide brush. For the full guarantee of the quality of the treatment, it is best to run this cp pr in two layers( the second one is applied only after the first drying).
Wall priming with antiseptic compound
If the wall is prepared for a tile and the notch is made using an ax or a hammer, then after this process the surface must be primed with once more.
Floor waterproofing
Floor waterproofing in the bathroom is always the most important of the activities. In this room, as in no other, the probability of occurrence of various emergency situations is great. Pour yourself - it's half bad. But if the "flood" spreads to neighbors from the bottom, then this can result not only in a major scandal and proceedings, but also, with considerable financial losses, for sure .
Measures for waterproofing will not be in vain if the floor screed does not have large cracks, cracks, especially in areas adjacent to the walls. All these shortcomings must be eliminated in the first place.
For this they are cut, treated with a primer, and then filled with sealant - is the easiest way to get rid of them. Well as a repair composition shows epoxy putty - it quickly freezes and creates reliable "patches".
If, in addition to sealing the slots, floor leveling is required, you can immediately solve two problems with the help of a filler that will fill all the fractures and bring the level to the ideal horizontal line. How to properly fill self-leveling floor can be found in detail by going to a special article of our portal.
Once the floor is ready, you can proceed to its waterproofing. There are many interesting technologies, but the most accessible is the lubricating method. The work in this case is carried out in the following way:
- On the edge of the floor and the lower part of the walls( approximately on the 150 - 200 mm), a special composition is densely applied by the brush, so that no lumens remain.
- Then on the freshly applied layer in the area of the joint between the wall and the floor the waterproofing tape is glued( heated), since it is the joints that are the most vulnerable place for leaks.
Coring of corners with waterproofing tape
- After drying of the corner strips of waterproofing, the composition covers the entire floor of the floor and the walls up to a height of 150 mm. It is advisable to perform this procedure, for insurance, in two layers.
One of the effective compounds for waterproofing
Such waterproofing creates on the floor surface with an elastic film , by the type of continuous "trough" - it will be able to protect the floor from leaks.
" Warm floor" in the bathroom
If you plan to make " warm floor" in the bathroom, you can choose one of two suitable - variants: electric or water heating system.
- The optimal version of the electric of a warm floor in a bathroom is a mesh mat with a zigzag heating cable laid on it.
It is most convenient to use
mesh heating mats. Convenience is that such heating can be placed under a thin screed or even directly under a ceramic tile( very little, for 5 ÷ 8 mm thickening the layer of tile adhesive).Under mats it is recommended to lay a heater with a foil surface, especially if the apartment is on the first floor and the floor is cold.
These mats are connected to a special thermostat, which allows precise adjustment of the surface heating temperature. The convenience of such a floor is that it can be turned on at any time , both in summer, and in winter, unlike the floor running from the opist system. Its disadvantage is the cost of electricity.
Ceramic tiles can be laid directly on mats
The mats are fixed to the floor on a double-sided adhesive tape, and above them a solution is poured or poured( this can be an ordinary concrete compound or self-leveling ), or tile glue.
- Another version of the " warm floor" for the bathroom is the water circuit, connected to the heating system. Such floor will be warm only during the heating period, but to pay for heating not it is necessary absolutely.
Laying and pouring the water circuit of the "warm floor"
When installing a similar " warm floor", the pipe is bent with a snail or snake and fixed on a reinforcing mesh or laid between the bosses of special mats. An important condition to be observed is the integrity of the pipe, that is, about the on the , all contour lengths should not have connections. On the surface of the floor in the bathroom - this is easy to execute , since the area is quite small. In addition, you need to know that the pipe is not stacked under the bathroom - it's absolutely pointless. It should be located only in those areas where it is possible to put bare feet of hosts on the floor.
Connection of the "warm floor" to the heated towel rail - not welcome
By the way, sometimes the ends of the contour " warm floor" are connected to the pipes going to the heated towel rail, that is to the hot water center. Is it acceptable? From the technological point of view - yes .But from the point of view of unauthorized selection of heat energy for floor heating - very serious very serious problems can arise.
In any case, before installing water " warm floor" in an apartment with centralized hot water and heating, you need to make inquiries in the company involved in the exploitation of housing. For sure , you will need to perform a number of certain specifications.
More comprehensive information on " warm floors" , can be obtained by following the link to the relevant publication of our portal.
Aligning the walls
Before leveling the walls, the finished floor screed( if it was done earlier) is best covered with a plastic with so that it does not stain it with plaster or glue. The walls can be leveled using ordinary plaster on installed beacons, and easier to mount on the adhesive on the gypsum -based and fix to the wall a moisture-resistant plasterboard.
Plaster beacons on walls
If raw plaster is chosen, guides are installed on the wall, which will become a guide for alignment with the rule.
Aligning the plaster layer with the
rule How to do this work correctly, and what method to choose in this or that situation, you can find out from the article on wall alignment, published on the pages of our portal.
Drywall gently aligns the wall in case it is not deformed, but has only small irregularities. If there is a significant curvature of the plane, then the probability is high that the material simply repeats it, but does not equalize.
Application of glue on a sheet of drywall
To glue a plasterboard to a wall, first it is necessary to apply glue to the wall. For one square meter of surface is applied to 5 ÷ 6 to of a leaning structure.
Then the sheet of drywall is applied to the wall and well pressed. Glue on a gypsum base quickly seizes, so the plasterboard will quickly be fixed in the desired position.
Bonding of GCR to the wall
The installation of this material on the walls with the help of glue is made in order to save space. But in that case . if the area of the bathroom is large enough, the plasterboard can be fixed to crate - wooden or made of metal galvanized profiles.
Covering the duct for pipes with plasterboard
The leveling of the wall surfaces is made in those cases, if further laying of the tiles. If the walls are planned to be finished with PVC panels, then the walls are not leveled with plaster, and crate is installed on them at once on the level.
Installing crates
The cladding on the walls of the bathroom is installed from wooden racks or metal zinc-plated profiles. On the wooden crate panel P ВХ кр to drink much easier, so they are used for the frame more often. For , the laths use rails with a cross-section of 40 × 15 mm or 50 × 20 mm. They are fixed at a distance of 300 ÷ 500 mm from each other.
Wooden crate on the walls
If the ceiling is planned to be suspended, the metal profiles with special pendants will be the optimal solution for it. By the way, no one forbids using these suspensions either to install wooden racks on which the cladding panels will be fixed. The main thing is reliably and rigidly fasten these brackets to the ceiling surface.
Suspensions for fixing the guiding rails
The suspended ceiling is especially necessary if it incorporates the point spotlights that will be "drowned" to the level of the decorative surface. Therefore needs to measure in advance the height of the luminaire planned to be installed in order to lower the level of the crate precisely at this distance.
Suspended ceiling in the bathroom during installation
Wooden slats, which are used for the crate , must be treated with an antiseptic water repellent compound.
After installing the guide rail system to the ceiling, you can start installing PVC panels, as this completes the preparatory work and the finishing procedures begin.
Finishing works
Ceiling
Decorating the bathroom with decorative materials starts from the ceiling. If the walls will later be laid ceramic tile, then you need to immediately arrange the transition from one material to another, delimiting it with a corner. The angle to is replicated along the entire perimeter of the ceiling with like this, creating a kind of framing for the ceiling panels.
Cutting the window for installing the luminaire
When the panels are installed in the of the pre-planned locations, you need to cut out the holes to install the fixtures. They are made using a crown on wood, which is installed on an electric drill( screwdriver ).
Recessed spotlight
Further, through the hole, electric cables are pulled out to which special lighting fixtures for suspended ceilings are attached, having the clamps in the form of spring-loaded " lugs ".
Gender
Each master selects a sequence of works independently, but is recommended first of all, lay the tile on the floor, and only after that go to the walls.
Laying tiles on the floor
The laying of tiles is carried out on a special tile adhesive made on a cement base. Works start from the door and the wall, which will be in sight. proce ss etc. ohodit in this order to incomplete, cut tiles that will inevitably proved to be into the farthest corner, closed the bathroom, lockers and the like ., And did not spoil the whole picture.
Between the tiles during installation, calibration crosses are installed, which will withstand the same thickness of joints on the entire surface. They are pulled out only after the glue dries.
adhesive is applied to the surface of the floor in size one ÷ two tiles distributed in one direction notched trowel. Many masters recommend it when laying on the floor, causing to a layer of glue and on the tile itself. Laying in this case conducted so that the direction furrows on the floor perpendicular furrow tile. This method gives full guarantee that there will be no air voids under the tile.
Fitting the tile plane with a rubber hammer
After laying the tiles, if necessary, tap the rubber hammer through the bar, laid directly on two tiles, thereby aligning them in one plane. The control of laying each tile with a level is mandatory.
Another one way to achieve a flat surface without internal voids - are special clamps that are used instead of crosses.
Video: tile way of using plastic clamps
They solve two problems at once - kept identical thickness of seams and forced output adjacent tiles on the same level. If they are used immediately , starting with laying the first tile and to the last, the surface is guaranteed to be flat. These devices are used not only for tiling the floor - it is also suitable for walls.
Cleaning of joints between tiles
After the tiles are laid on the floor and the adhesive composition is set, interlace is stitched. If joints filled with glue during installation and fitting, they have to be cleaned with a special scraper, then sweep away the remains using an old tooth brush .
Filling joints with grout( fugue)
Next , cleaned gaps are filled with grout( diluted or ready to use fugue), the surplus of which must be immediately removed from the surface of the tile. It is undesirable to hesitate with this, since after drying the fugue it will be much more difficult to clean its .
After the floor covering is finished, the gaps left between the edge tiles and the wall must be cleaned to the full depth and filled with sealant.
Sometimes, at your own risk, the floors in the bathroom trim and wood
Instead of floor tiles, some apartment owners prefer flooring from boards or laminate. It also , by and large account , acceptable options, but you need to remember that wood, especially laminate( MDF), is not very fond of moisture. If you lay a wooden floor, the material for it must be pretreated with antiseptic and water-repellent compositions, and when using laminated panels - pay attention to the material's permissibility to be placed in rooms with high humidity. And yet - it's better not to experiment, but to stop on the ceramic coating.
Wall finishing
The most popular finishing material for walls in the bathroom is also ceramic tile, as it is durable enough and easy to clean. Recently, PVC panels have become no less popular for the walls in the bathroom. They true , will serve for a shorter period than tile, but the price of polymer material is not comparable, and the installation of panels is much easier and faster.
PVC panels are a gain in price and in the speed of finishing
Panels are produced with different patterns, and some models, by the way, very reliably imitate ceramic tiles.
Tile
Laying tiles on the wall surface
Laying tiles on the walls - the process is quite complex, and if it is performed by a novice, there is a risk of making a lot of mistakes. Therefore , accepting this work, one should not rush. To help beginners, the already mentioned clamps will not allow the surface of one tile to come out higher or lower than the neighboring one.
Using clamps on the wall
Tiling starts from the floor. It must be understood that the first series sets the correct and even for all others, so you must set the horizontal line of its installation with the control with using the construction level.
Tile adhesive is applied to the wall using a notched trowel for masonry of three ÷ four tiles. Do not rush and cover the composition of an area that is too large, especially if there is a lack of practice, since the solution settles quickly enough.
After complete wall covering, the seams between the tiles are rubbed in the same way as the when laying the on the floor.
Before laying tiles in those areas where water pipes pass through the walls or there will be water "sockets", in the right places on the tile, drill holes of the required diameter with the help of a drill-in crown mounted in the chuck or " ballerina ".
PVC panels
If PVC panels are selected for finishing, they are fixed to the crate , mounted on the walls before. The installation itself does not present any difficulties - the panels have a simple and clear "groove-spike" system, and all fastening elements(screws, carnations or staple staples) are completely hidden when each next strip is installed.
Plastic panels - very easy to install
Top and bottom( with vertical arrangement of panels) are installed starting plates that hide unsightly cropped ends and give the interior design completeness.
In addition, special fittings are provided for internal and external corners, as well as vertical and horizontal edges of finishing material.
Profile elements for wall covering with PVC panels
When installing finishing PVC panels, it must be remembered that the evenness and, accordingly, the appearance of the wall covering depend on the ideally positioned vertical or horizontal( depending on the direction of laying) of the first strip. In this case, each subsequent element t t is also checked for verticality.
The holes for pipes in plastic panels are made much easier - , they are easily drilled with screwdriver and crowns of the right size, or even simply cut with a construction knife.
Video: repair in the bathroom using PVC panels
Completion of work - plumbing installation
After the finishing of the finishing materials on the walls, all plumbing fixtures and accessories - are installed in their seats, or a shower, a washbasin, and alsomixers for them. Very detailed processes sanitary equipment are considered in a special section of our portal.
- After installing , alignment and with a reliable fixation of the bath, it is connected through a siphon to the sewage, and is checked for leaks after mounting the mixer on the eccentric sockets -.
Installing the siphon in the bathroom and checking it for flow
- After this, it is necessary to seal the gap formed between the wall and the bathroom - , this is done with silicone, tiles or plastic skirting boards.
Sealing gaps and junctions
- Next, if desired , a screen is mounted under the bathroom. It can be fixed on a wooden frame assembled from a bar, or laid out of gypsum boards or blocks and lined with ceramic tiles. To some models in nn pr and their purchase, you can immediately purchase a metal frame for fixing any chosen decorative finish.
- The sink of the washbasin is installed. If the "tulip" model is chosen, the water supply pipes are closed with a ceramic foot-support.
- If you choose a standard sink, under it you can pick up a nightstand that will hide all the unsightly sites and become a storage place for detergents. If in the table top of the nightstand for mounting the bowl of the shell , then its will have to measure and saw out.
Before installing the sink, its is turned over and placed on the countertop of the cabinet to circle the cutout with a pencil. Further, the width of the strip running along the edge of the shell is determined, and this distance is also transferred to the tabletop inside the contoured semicircle from the marked line. It is for this and will be made sawing holes to install the sink.
If the washbasin is wider than the cabinet, will have to adjust the front panel of the locker, and after installation, seal the gap between the cabinet and the sink with white silicone.
- Then the basin mixer is connected to the water supply, and the drainage - to the sewer.
- If this is in the plans - installed washing machine. It is also connected to a tap-off "outlet," that is, to a fitting specially prepared for .
Finishing can be completed by installing a new beautiful vent grill or to reinforce the effect of a ducted exhaust fan( in this case for it the point of connection to power supply )
The finishing touches - bedside tables, mirrors, hangers, shelves and other accessories
And the last step in the bathroom hangs all the necessary accessories for the premises, such as mirrors, shelves, cabinets, hangers, soap dishes and etc .
Make repairs in the bathroom - not so easy, despite the small size of the room. However, with the necessary efforts and efforts and having the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to cope with this. Self-made repairs will become the pride of the owner, and in addition, will save a considerable amount.
Video: repair in the bathroom - a manual for beginners
