Stove for the bath with your own hands

Probably, any owner of individual suburban housing if he has not yet own bath on the site, then, most likely, he has plans for its construction and equipment. Bathhouse tradition in Russia is very ancient and persistent, and no modern devices and devices in the form of baths, jacuzzi, "heaped" shower cabins, electric heaters or steam generators will not replace this heat from a heated stove and birch broom.

The stove is one of the main attributes of a Russian bath or a real sauna. From its efficient work directly depends on the necessary atmosphere, and the required temperature in the steam room and in the washing. Currently, many models specially designed for similar conditions are on sale. However, many home-based craftsmen prefer to make a stove for a bath with their own hands. This case is , although quite complex and requiring good skills of construction or welding works, but still quite feasible.

Types of bath ovens

First of all, you need to understand the main existing types of sauna stoves so that you can choose to one of them.

1. Based on the material

• For a long time, the main material for the sauna stoves was a burned brick. The tradition is still in the past today - many prefer the brick oven to all others, although, of course, its construction is much more complicated than the installation is ready. But the heat in it remains much longer, and the atmosphere in the bath it creates completely special.

With its structure can generate certain complexity. So, for a brick structure, you will need a foundation that is not associated with the foundation of the bath itself. In addition, the dimensions of the building itself do not always allow to be placed in , although, of course, there are projects and very small in size clutches.

Another one difficulty - the erection of such a furnace requires of a certain experience, so that it does not become a source of potential threat to human life and health. Often, the desire to have a stone oven makes the owners baths to contact the masters. However, you can try to add to yourself.

• Metal baths are very popular. Let them be some kind of waste about t t radiations, but they have a number of advantages:

- Its installation does not occupy for a long time and does not require much space.

- There are a lot of ready models on sale, therefore it is possible to choose the most optimal option for a particular bath .

- It's easier to make such an oven yourself if you have experience with welding.

- For the manufacture of a metal furnace, even seemingly recycled materials are often used: trimming pipes, old disks from trucks, obsolete gas cylinders, old drums and .

In a sauna, as a rule, only steel stoves are installed - cast iron is unacceptable under these conditions. Yes, it has a larger heat capacity of and retains the required temperature longer, but its fragility and instability to sharp thermal drops do not allow, for example, splash on a hot stove with cold water - cracks may appear.

Additional information about the furnaces from StroyDay.ru:

We recommend you to read the materials on the construction of the oven Swede with your own hands, the construction of the Dutch oven - here, oven with your own hands of metal - right here.

In addition, we believe that you will be useful information on how to impose a brick oven - here.

The main disadvantage of steel stoves is their rather quick cooling after the end of the firebox, , especially if the used an insufficiently thick metal sheet for manufacturing. However, the heat can for a long time to hold a massive heater.

• To reconcile the proponents of brick and steel bath furnaces can technology of lining the metal shell with brick.

Massive foundation in this case is not required, the tightness of the masonry joints is also , that is, the process of erecting the walls is quite simple.

In addition to good heat accumulation, the brick lining will protect against direct exposure of hard infrared radiation from to hot metal surfaces. And still - it can become a good interior complement to the bath, hiding often not too cute kind of steel stove.

2. On energy carrier

The vast majority of sauna furnaces is intended for firewood burning. Of course, there are models using gas and electricity. Some folk craftsmen adapt for this purpose liquid fuel units( for example, diesel fuel), taking out the furnace part with the diesel fuel supply system to the street.

was and remains the best fuel for the sauna. However, can again emphasize this, no other energy sources, except for natural well-dried firewood, will create in the steam room a healthy microclimate for which, in principle, the bath is most often built.

3. By the location of the

furnace Both brick and metal sauna stoves can have different layouts:

. In one version, the entire oven is in the steam room, that is, is produced from its furnace directly from here. Such a design is certainly cheaper, much easier in both manufacturing and installation, but there are a number of serious drawbacks. So, for example, the stock of firewood in a therma does not create - , they will simply become saturated with moisture. Thus, if necessary, to maintain the fire will run after them to another room or to the street. In addition, the steam room is usually not so large a room, and therefore there is a great risk of getting an accidental burn from touching the hot-plate furnace by touching the .

In terms of convenience and safety of use, stoves win, from of which the furnace door is moved to the waiting room, and in the steam room there is a stove and, possibly, a water heating tank. In such a furnace, it is possible to maintain a fire without disturbing anyone, and in the steam room the overall safety level rises.

4. By the method of heating the sauna heater

Finally, the sauna furnaces differ in the way they heat the stones.

• Currently, the most commonly used stoves are permanent heating. In their design, the stones do not have direct contact with the exhaust products of combustion - they are located either in a metal tank welded to the body of the stove, or in special lattice bodies located on the walls or even on the chimney pipe. Such an arrangement of the furnace is more typical of the Finnish sauna. The heating temperature of stones reaches 300 - 400 degrees. Usually, stones of a rather small fraction are used, by the type of coarse gravel. They are not coated with soot, as they are insulated from combustion products.

The convenience of this stove is that the process of the furnace and, directly, the adoption of bath procedures are not time-separated - it is possible to maintain the fire and, accordingly, the temperature in the steam room as many as many will be needed.

• The furnaces of periodic heating are differently arranged. Their design implies the withdrawal of hot gases directly through the stove, with their subsequent exit into the chimney. The stones are heated to extremely high temperatures - up to 1000 degrees. However, after heating the furnace, you must wait for the fuel to completely burn out and the carbon monoxide output - only after that you can go to the wash. To ensure that the heater does not cool quickly and does not give a heavy wet steam, its is usually covered with either a lid or a folding door.

According to this scheme, classic Russian bath ovens were usually built up - a heated bath was enough for all family members. Water when hit on so heavily heated stones instantly turns into steam. The main condition - should be a massive, carefully selected, rounded, expressed dark gray color, and their total mass should be at least 50 kilograms. From time to time the heater is dismantled to clean the stones of accumulated soot and replace the collapsed ones.

Related materials on our portal

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with a recent article on our portal - how to make a barbecue yourself.

But before you go to the article about barbecue, be sure to read how to lay a brick - here.

Diagrams of such simple batch furnaces will be considered below.

• It should be noted that there are models of stoves that combine the advantages of and those and other devices. In them the sauna heater section on the two areas - unventilated, placed in a special duct through which the combustion products pass, and open.

. Such stoves are quite complex in design, but they perfectly accumulate temperature, give dry steam, and throw up, if necessary, wood can be directly in the processwashing.

Video: tips for choosing a stove for a sauna

How to make a metal oven for a sauna yourself

There are countless options for metal sauna stoves, and, according to the , anyone can come up with their own, relying on some basic models. as an example can be given a few very simple in the execution of stoves, for the manufacture of which does not require any special knowledge and skills.

Batch heating oven for small family steam room

This is probably one and from the simplest options. To make a similar furnace, you need a metal fox t t with a thickness of about 5 mm( steel Ct 3 ).Of the thinner sheet in the , this does not make a furnace - it will burn very quickly, and heat will not be kept efficiently.

• Dimensions of the stove are small - only 900 mm in length, 800 - height with legs, and width along the front - 600 mm. Its can be placed even in a very small steam room.
• For chimney branch pipe, a pipe diameter of 115 mm is required. Its length can be different - some prefer a short branch with a flange to connect the chimney, others weld a sufficiently long section, on which you can put on a hot water tank.
• To ensure that all seams are strong, it is better to make them on a metal corner with a 30 × 30 × 3 mm shelf. This profile will also be needed for polishing the to rosters for internal lattice partitions.
• The height of the stove space is divided into three unequal compartments. The lower, narrowest one is the ash pan( 1) with an ash door. The size of this door is usually small, in 2 - 2,5 times smaller than the furnace opening.
• Between the ash pan and the furnace( 3) cast iron grates are mounted on brackets from the corner.

• If they were not found, then you will have to weld grate from parallel rods with a diameter of at least 10 - 12 mm. The distance between the bars is kept the same - about 10 mm.
• The upper compartment is the heater, through which the combustion products are vented during the heating of the furnace( 5).Gases pass freely through the grate ( 4), they scorch the stones and are diverted to the chimney pipe( 6).
• The doors of the combustion chamber and ash-ash pan are driven to welded loops and must be equipped with bolt-latches.
• The back of the stove is brewed by one third with a metal sheet( 300 × 600 mm), in the center of the of which is cut a hole where the flue pipe is welded, which falls down to 100 - 120 mm.
• The diagram does not show the cover, which is covered with the heater during the furnace of the sauna furnace. Its is easy to make from thin metal( 0,8 - 1,0 mm) with calculation of , so that it completely covers the heater and slightly finds down on the walls of the case. This cover will not allow the stones to cool down quickly, and in the process of the pre-heating chamber will prevent the direct exit of the combustion products into the room, directing them into the chimney branch pipe. Undoubtedly, good traction must be ensured for this.

Right before the beginning of bath procedures, this lid is removed, and the remains in the open position. However, sometimes the hinged is also provided, which is opened when it is necessary to steam a couple, and the lid is permanently in place, keeping the heat of the stones longer.

• When the fuser is fully welded, producing t for thorough cleaning and inspection of joints, removal of burrs and unevenness of the metal. It is recommended to coat the structure from the outside with a heat-resistant varnish specially designed for fireplaces and stoves.

The stones are placed in the compartment designed for them later, after the furnace has been installed in the place in the bath and is connected to its to the chimney. About this speech will go somewhat later.

Heat from such a stove after its heating should be enough for a full bath procedure for 2 - 3 person.

Metal periodic heater with additional brick walls

Another one version of the open , which, however, is somewhat more difficult to manufacture, but the ability to accumulate heat from the is much higher.

There is already used a "double" technology - a metal casing and internal brickwork. Steel in this case does not need too thick - enough sheets 1.5 - 2.0 mm. For brickwork, heat-resistant fireclay bricks are used, and as a solution it is best to purchase a ready-made dry mortar specially designed for furnaces and fireplaces, and to knead with its in accordance with the cooking instructions.

• To begin with, a base is prepared with welded legs with heels to ensure that the furnace structure is stable.
• Then, on this basis, laid out the first continuous row of bricks. All other rows are performed in the "half-brick" in the furnace area, and in the "quarter" of the - in the zone of the chimney channels.
• After the camera is laid out the ash-ash pan( 1), a cast iron grate is installed between it and the furnace( 2).To leave the openings for the for the ashtray and the loading window for laying, it is fashionable to use jumper bars made of a 20 × 20 metal corner, but only in such a way as not to disturb the evenness of the inter-row joints.
• Above the combustion chamber is installed grating made of metal rods( Ø 12 mm), on which stones will subsequently be laid.
• On the left or right side of the masonry, at the level of the heater, a window( 5) is left, which will serve to load stones, for regular inspection and cleaning, and in the course of bathing procedures - for steam generation - it will be used to splash water from the ladle.
• The sinuous chimney channel contributes to the most complete heating of the entire furnace design and the complete afterburner of all combustion products. In the rear part of this channel, at the level of turning it up, leave the inspection window, where then the gate will be mounted for maximum heat preservation after the conducted by the furnace.
• The upper two rows of bricks are made solid, only with a window for the exit of the combustion products - at this point the flue pipe will be welded.
• When the masonry is finished and the mortar clamped well enough, it is possible to weld the walls of the metal casing to the base in succession, which in the acts as a kind of "casing" in this case. In order to make this easier for the , and at the same time to achieve tightness of the welded seams, a 20 × 20 mm corner can be used at the joints from above.
• When marking the workpiece for front wall openings are immediately marked and cut out for the ash pan and the window for loading the combustion chamber . After the front wall of the will be installed on the place, the hinges on which the doors of both cameras with locking devices are hung are welded. The door leafs themselves should be 10 - 15 mm in each side wider than the embedded windows, to ensure tight closing. It is not superfluous to install an asbestos seal around the perimeter or even over the entire surface of the internal surface of the furnace door.

• During the installation of the side wall, the opening is also cut out from the side of the steam window left in the masonry and a metal door with a seal is installed. Its is best made to be folded down and equipped with a "cold" handle so that it can be opened while washing for a couple's surrender.
• The last one is welded into the lid of the stove with a pre-cut hole for the chimney branch. Then a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded.
• Loading of the kiln by stones will be made after of its installation in the bath to the prepared place.

Heated stove with open heater

It is easier to construct such stoves from metal sheet or other available materials.

The figure shows a simple in the manufacture of a stove from the cutting of a metal thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 325 mm.

The cavity itself is a pipe section of the on the two grate compartments grating .The upper, the main one, serves as a furnace, the lower one - ash pan-ashtray. Both compartments have their own doors for firewood and respectively, providing air supply and cleaning.

Closer to the far, completely drowned end of the pipe, a flue pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded.

A metal box is welded on top of the cylindrical body, which will be filled with stones. In order for the to ensure maximum heating of the stones, it is possible to make the chimney on this section not straight, but with a bent knee - the contact area of ​​the of the heated pipe with the stove will increase significantly.

. It will be easy to make a similar stove in the form of a parallelepiped using metal sheets as billets.

Very often these stoves are equipped with hot water tanks. On the photo of the stove from the pipe it is placed on the rear plug, which is also the wall of the of the water tank.

fuser When manufacturing rectangular variants of designs, there is much more - the tanks are placed on either side, on top, or even in general make a semblance of a "water jacket" from several sides, with the inset of the cold supply pipes and the selection of preheatedwater.

Another one convenient way to solve the issue of water heating is to install the chimney pipe of a special heat exchanger tank.

Such water heaters can be manufactured on their own, but it is possible to purchase a finished factory product that has t the pipe of a certain standard diameter. It will only be necessary to cut this tank into the vertical part of the chimney above the stove and connect the pipes for supply and removal of water.

You may be interested in this

We recommend that you read the article on how to make a fireplace with your own hands made of bricks.

In addition, we recommend that you read the article about the finish of the fireplace.

Such tanks may by themselves have sufficient volume of , or serve as a heat exchanger only and connect to the main water reservoir.

Video: an interesting simple design of a metal stove for a sauna

Preparing a place for installing an

stove. It's only half the work itself to make a stove for a sauna. It is necessary to carefully prepare a place for the of its installation directly indoors.

Even a simple metal oven is quite a massive structure, especially if you add its own weight to the , the weight of the stone laying and the weight of the filled hot water tank. Thus, it is necessary to prepare the base - a kind of podium on which it will be installed. It is best to provide for its own foundation.

• For this, a small pit( up to 500 mm deep) is opened at the selected location.
• The sand layer is laid to the bottom up to 100 mm, then, after ramming, is still 200 mm gravel-crushed stone backfill.
• A layer of cutoff waterproofing is laid-usually a roofing material is used for this.
• Then, to the ground level, a concrete solution is poured in, filled with sand and fine gravel.

• is completely laid on top of the basement. After completely hardening of this site( not less than 3 weeks), a layer of roofing material is laid on top of , and then a continuous laying of burnt bricks
• is carried out. The masonry leads either to the level of the "clean" floor of the bath, or evena little, at 100 - 150 mm higher, constructing the thus an elevated podium for installing the stove.

It is not possible to place the oven on a concrete base - for all apparent solidity and strength it is necessary in conditions of high humidity and high temperatures will begin to crack and crumble.

From the walls, especially wooden ones, the stove should be located on the at least 200 mm. The walls must be covered with heat-resistant material - stainless steel sheet or " isover " - foil thermo insulator based on harmless basalt mineral wool.

. Often metal furnaces are "put on" in the masonry of . This gives the a number of advantages - there is less risk of getting burned on the red hot walls, plus the brickwork will be still one enough with a capacious heat accumulator.

More information about this process can be found from of a special article of our portal .Here are just a few important remarks:

• The distance from the metal walls to the brickwork is recommended to withstand 100 mm. This is necessary for normal air circulation - a powerful convection flow will be created to promote a uniform and rapid warming of the room. In the of the same , it is necessary to provide special windows for the bottom of the masonry. The metal walls of the stove, which are laid without a gap from the outside with a brick, are very close, due to a violation of the normal heat transfer, will very quickly burn out.

• For masonry, it is possible to use only natural clay furnace mortar or special building mixtures intended for this purpose, with pronounced properties of the moisture and thermal stability .
• It is necessary to think over the brick lining in advance - this is taken into account when pouring the foundation and laying out the brick podium.

Stacking stones

The efficiency of the homemade sauna stove will largely depend on the stones - the correctness of their selection and laying in the stove.

Even on the , a small stove requires at least 50 kilogram stacking, but it is better for the family bath to orient on the 80 - 100 kg.

Cobblestones are better to choose a rounded shape, smooth gray color, without flaws in the surface( cracks or faults).It is desirable that the stones were of different sizes - from 50 to 150 mm.

Granite for the sauna oven is completely unsuitable .Firstly, its structure is unstable to frequent processes of strong heating with simultaneous exposure to steam - very rapid destruction begins. Secondly, granite always contains micaceous impregnations, and they are capable of emitting fairly toxic fumes during incandescence.

are also credited to him. The best materials, in addition to the usual natural cobblestone, are talcchloride , basalt or jadeite. Such stones of various sizes can be purchased at specialized stores.

It is very important to lay the stones correctly. The calculation begins with the calculation that the bottom are the largest, massive of them. They will not interfere with the passage of heat to the above and create a powerful heat reserve. Then stones are laid out of medium size, and only in the very top are small in size.

This ordering will provide the upper layer of the stones with heating to a temperature of 300 - 400 º - exactly what is needed for the dry steam .When water gets on well-warmed evaporation stones, it takes place literally instantly, accompanied by a characteristic crackling.

If the stones are flattened, then when laying them, their spatial orientation is necessarily taken into account. The long side should be located along the main heat flow, otherwise the will occur a kind of "locking", when the lower stones will overheat and the upper ones will not reach the required temperature regime.

Neglecting the rules of laying stones will sharply reduce the overall health-improving effect of the bath. Steam very quickly will start "get heavy," and though , it's possible that the overall temperature in the steam room will not decrease significantly, staying in it will do more harm than good - in a waterlogged room it simply becomes impossible to breathe.

Video: how to lay stones in the sauna oven

So, the oven for a bath with your own hands - the task is quite feasible, if you take into account all technological nuances during the manufacturing process, and observe the established safety requirements when installing. But the self-made stove will not only help save a considerable amount, but it will also become the pride of the owner, when it will be possible to invite his friends to the bath.