The Swedish oven with own hands

The Swedish oven with its own hands can be erected only if the home master already has a steady mason's skills and, at least a small, experience with furnaces. In itself, the Swede is a fairly complex design, clearly unintended for primary learning such technologies.

There are several models of the Swedish type oven:

is a heating and cooking oven that only has a cooker and, if desired, is equipped with an oven, a hot water tank and a recess for drying;

is a fireplace oven that can be located in such a way that the heating and cooking part of the building will go into the kitchen and the decorative fireplace side into the bedroom or the living room;

- "Swedka", which has a couch - this oven has a more complex design, but it can perform the function of a warm bed in winter.

The model is selected depending on the area that can be used for it, since some of the varieties are quite massive, while others, on the contrary, have compact shapes.

When selecting a furnace, apart from the area, of course, the requirements for functionality are also taken into account. For example, if the "Swede" is installed in the kitchen and its location is not bordered by other rooms, then the choice usually falls on a compact heating and cooking oven. If it is necessary to heat the whole house, then the appropriate place is chosen for the stove where it will heat up two rooms at once, or a variant with a stove, from which a considerable amount of heat also emanates.

"Swedka" with a fireplace is perfect for a romantic interior - it is usually chosen by those owners who like to spend the evenings near the fire. If the masonry of the mantelpiece is made correctly, it will also be able to heat the room into which its furnace comes out.

Whatever furnace model is chosen, the work is still started from the foundation device.

Base for

It is recommended to arrange the foundation for the stove even when laying the foundation of the house, if it is possible, of course. If not - then it will have to be erected in an already finished building. But in that, and in another case it is necessary to separate the foundation of the furnace from the concrete base of the entire building. This is necessary in order that, if the shrinkage of one of the designs fails, it does not "pull" the other behind it, and does not thereby create a deformation of the masonry.

• For a massive structure of the furnace, a reliable foundation is set up, which must go deep into the earth at 700 ÷ 800 mm.

If the soil is freezing to great depths, the pit is also deepened - this parameter should be known in advance, even before construction begins.

It is important for the reliability of the design to learn and the features of the soils in the construction region, because this also depends on the deepening of the base and its strengthening. All these data can "get hold of" in any local construction organization.

• If the brickwork of the stove is to be carried out in an already erected house with a constructed floor, the marking is made directly on the cover, so as to cut out the desired fragment and get to the ground level. The hole in the floor must have dimensions that exceed by 100 ÷ 150 mm the base of the furnace in each side.

• Next, the soil is marked and the foundation pit is digested with the required depth.
• The bottom of the finished pit is compacted, and sand is poured onto it, which is wetted with water, and also carefully compacted. The thickness of the sand cushion in the compacted form should be at least 100 ÷ 200 mm, depending on the depth of the excavation.
• Then follows rubble - it is covered on a cushion of sand by a layer with a thickness of 150 ÷ ​​170 mm. It also needs to be compacted properly.
• The next stage is the installation of the formwork under the foundation. As a rule, its sides are knocked out of low-grade boards. If there are gaps between the boards, then the inside of the formwork is lined with polyethylene film, which is fixed on the board walls using a stapler.

In addition to the film, a roofing material can be used for waterproofing the foundation, which also needs to be fixed on the walls.

• The formwork is lifted above the ground to the height of the foundation, which may not reach the level of the floor on a single layer of brick or rise above it by 80 ÷ 100 mm.

The second option is to install the formwork only around the excavation, but the waterproofing material must be fixed necessarily.

• Then a rough mortar of concrete is poured in, which is made from large-fractional gravel and cement, with a small addition of sand. The thickness of this layer should be about 150 mm.
• Next, a reinforcement structure made of metal rods is installed, which is pressed into a fresh solution.

• The next layer is filled with a thinner cement mortar, to the height of the ground - it is leveled and left to set.
• After it grabs and hardens a little, the reinforcing mesh is placed on top of it.

• After laying the mesh, it is poured with concrete solution onto the height of the formwork. The poured mortar is leveled, and after that the foundation must completely grasp, harden and gain the necessary strength. These processes will take quite a lot of time, and usually to subsequent operations are transferred no earlier than 25 ÷ 28 days.

• After that, the upper part of the formwork is removed and a waterproofing layer is laid on an even surface of the foundation, consisting of 2-3 layers of roofing material glued together in thickness.

Upon completion of this stage of foundation preparation, it is possible to proceed directly to the laying of the furnace.

"Swede" with fireplace

This model of the stove is quite satisfactory for those who prefer a practical approach to things, and appreciate the mood of romantic evenings. It is installed so that the cooking side of the structure goes out into the kitchen and the fireplace into one of the living rooms intended for rest.

The oven becomes part of the wall or separating the two zones in a large room, which is typical for country cottages or small private houses.

The interior of the stove-fireplace can be seen on its images in the section, where it is clearly visible how the metal elements are installed.

. Materials

For the construction of this furnace, it is necessary to purchase high-quality building materials - only in this case you can get a reliable, durable, durable and beautiful exterior structure. Brick and construction mixtures are bought with a margin, about 15% more than necessary for the construction of the material. In addition, some metal( cast iron and steel) elements will be required.

So, for this model, "Swedes" need to buy:

• Red, preferably clinker brick, from which it is easier to make a neat, even laying. It will need 717 pieces, not counting the construction of the pipe.
• Silicate or fireclay brick for masonry combustion chambers - 154 pieces.
• Sand, clay and cement, or ready-made heat-resistant mortar mixes.
• Steel wire, with a diameter of 4 ÷ 5 mm - for fixing cast iron parts.
• Asbestos sheet and the same cord - for fire protection of the wall of the house, and for protecting metal elements from premature burning out.
• Steel corner 50 × 50 × 5 × 1020 ÷ 1030 mm - 2 pieces, it is needed to strengthen the surface of the hob.
• Steel strip 50 × 5 × 920mm - 3 pieces, 50 × 5 × 54 mm - 2 pieces, 50 × 5 × 48 mm - 2 pieces. These details will be required to create the basis for laying the next brick row above the cooking chamber.
• Grate, the size of 200 × 300 mm - 1 pc.
• Stainless steel door 210 × 250 mm -1 pc.
• Doors for cleaning chambers 140 × 140 mm - 8 pcs.
• Door for an ashtray 140 × 140 mm -1 pcs.
• Oven 450 × 360 × 300 mm -1 pcs.
• Latches for flue ducts 130 × 250 mm - 3 pcs.
• Cooker 410 × 710 mm -1 pcs.
• Fireplace grid, length 690 ÷ 700 mm - it can be purchased in finished form or made independently from a steel rod.
• Metal sheet, the size of 500 × 700 mm, in an amount of 2 pcs. It will be needed if such a flooring option is chosen on the floor in front of the furnace. Instead, ceramic tiles can be used for this purpose.

This furnace model has a size of 1020 × 890 × 2170 mm. In addition, the fireplace fireplace protrudes forward of the entire structure by 130 mm.

Furnace Layout

In order to understand how the smoke inside the structure goes through the smoke escape channels, and how the rest of the elements are arranged, the plan must be carefully studied. It will help to understand the internal cavities and chambers, as well as determine how the bricks are laid in one or another section of the furnace being built.

Having such a scheme, it can be used to pre-lay the entire structure "dry" - this will help to finally clarify the configuration of each of the series.

In addition, experienced masters advise when working on the construction of brick kilns already on the solution, each of the series also first try to lay out "dry".This is done in order to pre-fit the bricks in size for each row. Only after carrying out these preliminary processes, it will be possible to proceed with the final masonry on the solution.

Thanks to the structured schemes, it will be much easier to try your hand at building the Swede.

masonry Before you start laying out the first row, it is necessary to make a precise marking on the roofing material laid on the foundation - to delineate the edges of the future base with chalk.

The first row of the furnace is laid out according to the layout. It should be mounted perfectly accurately, because of its smoothness will depend on how slender and reliable the whole structure will be.

The first row, as in all models of the oven, is laid out solid.

The second row is placed on a slightly different layout, but it is also completely filled with bricks. The area where the fireplace furnace will be located, is laid out with silicate brick. After laying out the row, holders are mounted on top of it, and the fireplace grate is fixed to them by welding.

In the third row begin to design an air chamber and cleaning channels, as well as a place for installing the oven. In addition, they begin to arrange a vertical chimney-drain channel. On the other side of the structure, the fuel chamber of the fireplace begins to form.

Simultaneously with the laying of this row, the doors are built in the right places, which are fixed with the help of prepared wire segments.

cast iron doors are usually installed. From the back of the chamber, a passage is connected to the cleaning chambers to install the oven. To do this, the corner of the brick being installed in this place is cut off.

The fourth row completely repeats the third in configuration, just that the bricks go "in the dressing."

On the fifth row on top of the blowing chamber a place is made for the installation of the grate, and in the rest - it completely repeats the previous rows. The row is laid out with silicate brick, in areas that will be in direct contact with fire - these are the zones where the grate will be laid.

Next, on the fifth row, an oven is installed, which is prewound with an asbestos rope.

Then, the grate is installed - it must be fixed to the solution.

In the same row, you can install the furnace door by tying it along the sides with a rope, or you can transfer its installation to the sixth row, leaving an opening between the bricks for it.

On the sixth row, the door is installed( if it is not installed on the fifth) and fixed with a wire that is sealed in the seams between the rows.

Silicate bricks, which will create a wall between the furnace and the oven cabinet, are installed on the edge. Thanks to this design, the oven will warm up more quickly.

On the sixth row, the gap left in the lower rows of the back of the oven is overlapped - between it and the vertical channel laid out.

The seventh row does not differ from the sixth one practically, except that a metal strip is laid on top of it, which will be the support for laying the next row of bricks.

On the eighth row, the work goes according to the scheme.

The ninth row has the same structure as the previous one, except for the feature that two metal strips are placed over the oven, on which the next row will be laid. These strips will help relieve the load from the camera support points.

On the tenth row, a place is first prepared for laying the hob. The edge above the oven door and the oven is strengthened by a corner. Asbestos strips are placed under the edges of the hob. From the left edge of the oven, in the wall, a gap is left to install the door.

Next on the prepared places the hob and the door for cleaning the channel are installed.

On the eleventh row begins the formation of the cooking niche. Bricks laid on the right side of the plate, overlap the hole between the wall of the stove and the stove, which remained uncovered on the previous row. The other elements fit according to the scheme.

At this level, bricks overlapping the combustion chamber are cut obliquely. This is necessary for the correct direction of smoke towards the chimney.

13 row is laid out exactly according to the scheme-ordering.

The fourteenth row forms a mantelpiece, with the help of a brick protrusion of the front masonry and on the sides, about 25 mm.

This shelf continues to form a shelf above the stove fireplace - the bricks are now stacked perpendicular to the bottom row. They are pushed forward and in the lateral sides by another 25 mm.

On the sixteenth row, the niche above the hob is covered with steel strips, and the corner is laid on the front edge.

17 and 18 rows are performed according to the order. When they are laid, the cooking niche is covered by two solid rows of bricks.

On the 19th row, the chimney holes are formed. The brick separating the fireplace and vertical furnace channel is cut obliquely from two sides. In addition, the doors are installed on the cleaning channels.

20 series is laid out according to the scheme. When you install it, no additional elements are installed.

On 21 rows, another door is installed - on the cleaning channel.

series. On the 22nd row, the door is also installed - on another clearing channel.

23 series is laid out strictly according to the scheme.

valve. On the 24th row, the

valve. The second chimney damper is mounted on the 25th row.

The last door on the cleaning channel is mounted on the 26th row, and the vertical channel is combined with the gas outlet.

27 ÷ 28 series are mounted according to the scheme, and are almost identical to each other.

29 ÷ 30 series is required to cover all channels with a continuous coating, leaving only one hole for the chimney, the bricks in which are laid out with a bevel.

is installed. On the thirtieth first row a common valve is installed on the chimney.

With 32 rows the pipe laying begins. Its height will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The thickness of the walls of the chimney must be at least half a brick.

If it is decided to build exactly this model of the stove, then the video attached to the article will also be of great help:

Video: Swedish-Swedish with

chimney piece "Swedka" with

couch This Swedish model turns out to be quite massive,, which is located at the rear of the structure.

A similar version of the heating system is particularly successful for holiday houses, because, despite the massive nature, this oven will save space, because having it, you can not install a bed.

In addition, not always summer nights are warm, and in the evening a heated oven can keep the warmth of the couch until the very morning.

The size of the oven is 1781 × 1280 mm, the bench has a length of 1781 mm and a width of 630 mm. Such a heating structure is capable of providing heat to a living area of ​​30 square meters.m.

Materials

In order to erect such an oven, you will have to purchase the following materials:

Description of materials and components	Quantity in pcs.	Dimensions of elements in mm
Red brick M-200	900-920
Fireclay bricks Sh-8	200-215
Door for firebox	1	210 × 250
Door for cleaning channels	3	70 × 130
Door for ash duct	1	140 × 250
Latches for chimney	2	130 × 260
Grate	1	250 × 400
Hob	1	310 × 610
Steel strip	5m	50 × 5
Steel corner	80 cm	60 × 60 × 5
Clay, sand
Chamotte chiselfinely divided non-stop mixture, perfectly suitable for the preparation of masonry rasstvpa)	160 kg
oven	1	450 × 360 × 300

Laid oven stove bench as scheme-poryadovkoy prepared in the manner described above the foundation.

In accordance with the existing scheme-order, the work is carried out as follows:

• The first two rows are laid out in solid arrays - they are given the direction of all future masonry structures.
• From the third row, the formation of internal gas vents and an air chamber is started, and a door is also installed on it. The rules for installing the door are exactly the same as described in the description of the previous model of the furnace.
• On the fourth row, the doors are installed on the cleaning chambers, and a place for the grate is prepared.
• On the fifth row is the installation of the furnace door and the installation of the grate.
• An oven is mounted on the sixth row. Between it and the furnace, a brick is placed on the edge.
• The seventh row is the last for the laying of the couch - then there is a laying directly of the cooking part of the oven.
• The eighth, ninth and tenth rows are mounted according to the scheme - the walls of the furnace and the chamber are raised around the oven.
• On the eleventh row, the hob is laid on the prepared place, under the edges of which the asbestos strips are laid. The front edge of this row is reinforced with a steel corner.
• From the 12th to the 16th row, the walls of the recess surrounding the hob are raised.
• On the 17th row, the niche is covered with metal strips and strengthened by a corner, and the first chimney valve is also installed. Its frame is first mounted on the solution, and then a movable part is installed in it.

• are installed. From 18 to 26 the row of masonry goes strictly according to the ordering scheme, without any features.
• The second chimney valve is installed on the 27th row.
• Next comes the laying of the chimney.

If you compare two models, you can see that the second is not more difficult to install than the first one. Therefore, if you choose a design for the complexity of the construction, then they can be called equivalent. It remains to make a choice only on the functional features.

The installation of the metal elements of the furnaces follows one pattern using a steel wire, which is embedded in the seams between the bricks. It is necessary to use asbestos protective windings that will help seal the seams around the heating doors and protect the thin metal of the oven box from rapid burning.

Video: an example of the construction of a Swedish oven with a couch

A little is worth mentioning about the laying of the chimney. When installing it, special attention should be paid to insulation from easily combustible materials when the structure passes through the ceiling.

Overlapping can be secured with the device between it and the asbestos gasket pipe or backfilling of a layer of expanded clay, for which a metal box with a square hole for the chimney in the middle of its bottom is made.

After passing through the attic, the pipe is removed to the roof and rises above it no less than 1.5 meters. The gaps between the roofing material and the masonry of the pipe must be well sealed.

For such purposes, you can use a special material - onduband, which is made in the form of tape, and already has an adhesive layer.

A metal umbrella is placed on the top of the pipe from above, which will protect the chimney from direct precipitation of atmospheric precipitation and dirt.

In general, the design of chimneys for furnaces or solid fuel boilers is a matter requiring special consideration. In particular, with some options for their arrangement, is available on the pages of our portal.

Completely folded oven, before heating at full capacity, it is necessary to dry, approximately for 10 ÷ 12 days. This can be done in a natural way by opening all the latches and doors, or you can help in this matter and in an "artificial" way, in which a conventional high power bulb is used. It is placed in a furnace, then the door is closed, the power is turned on and left so for the entire drying period.

After this, the initial furnace is carried out with a small laying of firewood for three to four days. Then the amount of fuel is gradually increased. Such drying will well strengthen and harden the grout in the seams.

If it is planned to finish the exterior of the structure, then this process is carried out only after the oven has dried completely, or better even after one season of full-scale operation.

It's not as easy to build a stove as it seems, so before you get down to business, it's recommended to really evaluate your strength. You can conduct several trial workouts by making the usual laying of bricks on the mortar. It is necessary to understand thoroughly, to the smallest detail, the nuances of order. Only after successful completion of the processes of such "learning" will it be possible to start independent work on the furnace. And still - it would not be superfluous to secure their work, finding the opportunity to invite for the control and guidance of a knowledgeable person.