How to fold the oven with your own hands made of bricks

No village house can do without a stove, as it will feed and heat it. Today many villages have gas pipelines, and, it would seem, it is possible to switch to a more convenient method of heating. However, many homeowners are slow to give up brick furnaces, which give a completely different, special heat. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with wood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick oven in the house.

To learn how to lay the oven with your own hands made of bricks, you need to study in detail the layout and technology of masonry. Before proceeding to study a particular variant, several models should be considered, since there are compact and massive structures. To choose it is necessary such an oven, which will occupy the smaller area in the house, but will have all functions demanded in the farm.

There are a lot of models of bricks. Experienced stove-makers can make their changes to finished projects, because they already know by heart where and how the internal channels through which smoke should flow. Due to the correct layout of their placement in the furnace design, it will evenly warm up and give away most of the heat to the room. It is better for novice masters to accurately follow the already compiled order schemes without retreating from them a single step, since even one incorrectly placed brick can spoil all this

-consuming, laborious job.

Types of brick furnaces

Furnaces for its functionalityis divided into three main types - cooking, heating and cooking-heating .Choosing a suitable design, first of all you need to determine what exactly the will do when is requested from by .

The cooking oven has a cast-iron panel for cooking and warming water. Usually such furnaces are small in size and are popular for installation in small private houses and in the country. Of course, the cooking oven is capable, in addition to cooking, of the still and to warm up a small room.

The heating and cooking oven can heat a house with a large area, and in its design sometimes includes a stove, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a water heating tank and a niche for drying fruits and vegetables.

design. The heating version of the oven is always compact. It does not include a hob and serves only for heating the rooms. This structure is able to warm two rooms, if its to be located between them, having built in the wall.

Choosing the optimal location for furnaces

Choosing the right furnace model, you need to look for the for it the right place. The structure can be installed at the wall, in the middle of the room or be built into the wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove and the desire of the owner of the house.

• The oven, standing in the middle of a large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, the kitchen and the dining room or the living room. The cooker will go into the kitchen, and a smooth wall with a well-made masonry will become a designer decoration of the living room. Perhaps, at once or in time, there will be a desire to finish the wall to the furnace, and completely split the two rooms of the - in this case the partition must be insulated from the furnace by non-combustible material. You can apply for this asbestos sheets or install brickwork.
• It is undesirable to build the oven near the outer wall, because there it will quickly become damp.
• When installing the stove between two rooms, its also needs to be separated from the walls by heat-resistant materials.
• The proposed construction site should be well sized and must be taken into account that the foundation must be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the structure so that it fits well in the room in all parameters.
• In order to make the easier to work, it is necessary to find a scheme-ordering for the selected model.

Having defined the model and installation site, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools .

The oven is good, but the barbecue is better!

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the latest article on our portal - how to make a barbecue yourself.

But before you go to the article about barbecue, be sure to read how to lay a brick - here.

Tools, masonry materials for brickwork stoves

Depending on the size of the furnace, requires a different amount of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools for masonry are the same.

Tools

From tools and devices for the erection of any stove you will need:

"Goat" - is a stage that will make it easier to work at height when furnace will be raised above human growth. They are convenient because the master stove can not only rise on them, but also put the next to the with the tank with the solution and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

Another variant of the stand, the more compact - is the " tragus" .Such devices need to have two, since if they are placed on the by a certain distance from each other and put thick boards on top, the same platform will be obtained. You can use separately , as stairs.

From the tools you will need to prepare the following set:

1. The picker will be needed to separate and brick the bricks.

2. broom made of bast to remove dried sand and mortar pieces from the finished stacked masonry rows and mop inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help to remove corners from inside and outside the furnace exactly by 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to verify the vertical of the walls.

5. A furnace hammer is also required to separate the brick into pieces and chop small projections of the frozen solution.

6. Pliers are needed for biting, bending and straightening the wire.

7. A rubber hammer is required for to bump the bricks in the masonry if they are difficult to fit.

8. Chisel will also be needed for splitting brick, as well as parsing the old masonry.

9. Trowel( trowel) of various sizes - for laying a solution and removing excess surplus.

10. The rule will be necessary for leveling the foundation surface.

11. The lead scribe is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to trim the stove with tiles.

12. The stool is a piece of pipe that is also used for of the tiles, they are hit by a knife instead of a hammer.

13. Blade made of wood - for kneading and rubbing solution .

14. Metal rod-marker for marking.

15. The level is needed to check the horizontal of the rows and the vertical of the walls.

16. The rasp is used to remove the lumps and lapping of lumps.

17. The strip is necessary for the accuracy of the seams, if the oven is not plastered or trimmed with decorative tiles.

18. Capacity for mixing the solution.

19. Sieve, which will help make the mortar solution thin.

Building materials

The number of materials will depend on the chosen oven, and their list is almost always the same. For a purely heating view, there is no need for a hob, oven cabinet, water tank. But usually the standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following names:

1. The door for an ash-pit.

2. The door for the furnace.

3. Cleaning door for furnace.

4. Chimney valve.

5. A ring of several rings.

6. The hob.

7. Lattice of the grate.

Other metal elements may need:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips with a thickness of 3 ÷ 4 mm.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. bricks hardened red.

2. The brick is fireclay.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mix for masonry furnaces.

4. The foundation will require cement , crushed stone, sand, material for formwork and a sheet of roofing material for waterproofing.

5. It will also be necessary to have a heat-resistant material for the protective finish of the walls of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles.

Preparing the site for the

stove Normally, the foundation for is poured into the furnace at the same time as the general foundation of the house, although it does not bind the rigidly with the .However, it often happens that the furnace is already being built in the finished building.

Further actions depend on the floor in the room.

• If the foundation is concrete and poured completely, according to the principle of the slab, and the structure of the furnace is not too massive, it is possible to start placing the stove directly on the concrete floor, having laid a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
• If the foundation is tape or the floor is wooden, then will have to arrange the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation is necessary for the to deepen the into the ground. To do this, the floor is marked with a place under the stove, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

• In the open ground, the excavation is digging with a depth of 400 - 500 mm.
• At the bottom of the pit is a "cushion" of 100 mm of sand, and then of the same thickness - from the rubble, the layers are well tamped.
• Further, on the perimeter of the excavation, a formwork for the pouring of concrete - is arranged, it must rise above the basic floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
• The bottom layer of the foundation, approximately up to half height, can consist of gravel, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed evenly over the entire area, and left to freeze.
• After the bottom layer well seizes, it is possible to fill the top layer, which will consist of a finer solution. The space is filled with a completely prepared concrete mortar and is leveled by the rule, and the upper boards of the formwork serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it is necessary, starting from the second day, to moisten with water, which will improve the uniformity of ripening of cement mortar and will not give rise to cracks.

• Completely finished foundation( 3 ÷ 4 weeks) covered with roofing material to create a layer of waterproofing. Then on this surface the marking - is drawn, the form of the furnace base is laid out, along which the first row will be laid out.

Masonry dry

• For beginner stove experienced masters recommend not to hurry to put bricks on the solution, so as not to make mistakes. Especially in the event that this work will be carried out for the first time, it is best to withdraw the entire furnace structure dry.
• Producing this ssn design, it is possible, with a constant look at the existing scheme, you can understand the internal design of chimney channels and the device of the furnace and blowing.
• For laying dry, it is necessary to prepare auxiliary slats having a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - , it will be filled with mortar at the main brickwork, forming seams.
• After the whole furnace model to of the chimney pipe is laid out, the of its is reassembled, the bricks of each row can be stacked separately if there is room enough for this, and numbered, indicating the number and the specific partin the it .This is especially important if the bricks were forced to the required size when laying.
• It should immediately be noted that at the final laying, each of the rows is also better, first, for monitoring, put it back dry, and then immediately fix it to the solution.
• In addition to this , you need to know that when laying bricks on a mortar, it is applied thick, approximately 7 mm , then press the brick and, if necessary, tap the rubber mallet. Surplus solutions immediately selected trowel.
• After laying the two - three series, until the mortar is seized, the seams are made with a strip. If suddenly the solution was not sufficiently moist, it can be slightly sprinkled with water from the spray gun.
• We must not forget that during the laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can go directly to the masonry.

The presented video shows the scheme of erecting a compact heating creek, which is suitable even for a very small room.however, there are no other additional functions:

Video: small-room heating furnace

Compact Swede

"Swedka" can be called the most neat and compact oven, suitable for small rooms. This stove can be called a heating and cooking, as it has a high casing with smoke chambers located inside, and means , with its furnace wall will warm up well, giving heat to the room. At the same time, the hob is present in the structure.

The first picture shows the "Swede", which has a wider pediment than the second photo, as it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows above the stove, a niche for drying is made. This version of the furnace is twice as wide as the second model.

. The ordering scheme shown below, almost fully corresponds to the oven in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning above the hob, a niche is arranged, a slightly different arrangement of the pipe- on the other side of the structure, and the bent corners .When laying on this order, the oven will look something like this.

The construction is laid out, based on the scheme-order:

Although in this scheme it is shown that from the first row begin to lay out the blowing chamber, still should be laid out with a solid plane andonly from the second row you can start working on the camera blowhole. But, in order not to create confusion, , the description will go exactly according to the scheme, and the first continuous series can be called "zero".

• So, from the first row, the formation of an air chamber begins.
• On the second row, the ash door is installed. The door is fixed to the wire and temporarily supported by bricks, until it is laid on all sides by masonry.

• ashtray ashtray door With the of the fourth , the series begin to remove two cleaning chambers and also install the doors on them.
• On the fifth row there is a grate grating .

• is immediately installed in the corresponding place. The furnace door is also fixed with a wire to the sixth row, and is also temporarily supported by bricks installed on the grate, and also , if the is needed, the support is also placed on the front side of the door.

• In the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical chimney ducts is laid.
• On the ninth row of the brick, the furnace door is closed, the wire of which it is fixed, is retracted into the seams between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, the opening is laid with the hob, under its edges lay strips of asbestos. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel corner.
• From the twelfth to the sixteenth row, a cooking chamber is displayed.
• On the seventeenth row metal strips are laid, and the upper edge of it is made out by a corner.
• The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three chimneys.
• On the twentieth row is installed one more door, and the cleaning chamber and the niche for drying begin to form.
• On the 22- om series, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
• On the 23rd the series is completely covered by the camera, and in its end is left with a hole that will continue the smoke channel.
• On the 24- the series with metal strips cover the drying niche.
• On the 25- the is installed the cleaning chamber door.
• On the 27- the door is covered with masonry.
• On the 28- the overlaps completely the entire camera.
• On the 30- on the series, two chokes are installed on the chimney channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then a valve is inserted into the of the .

• With the of the 31st according to the 35- the series is laid out with the section of the chimney pipe.
• With the of the 35th on the , the 38th begins the construction of the pipe swell.
• Next, comes pipe masonry, which already has its own numbering. From the first to the the 26th , the form of the pipe does not change, only it is necessary to closely monitor the smoothness and internal cleanliness( from the residual solutions) of the smoke channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row, still has one door to the cleaning chamber.
• On the 27- the series is supplied with by another with one chimney flap.
• On the 29- the makes the expansion of the pipe one row, and on 30- its is brought to its initial form.
• Beginning with the of the 31st series, the narrowest part of the pipe laid out through the roof is laid out.

When passing a chimney through an attic floor, its must be isolated from with it with - flammable materials. This can be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay littered in a box located around the perimeter of the pipe.

A hole in the roof, through which passes t rub, after the construction is necessarily closed with waterproofing material, which is superimposed both on the pipe and on the roof.

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Installation of other

furnace elements As mentioned above, the can have embedded in the furnace and other elements, so it's worth considering how to install some of them.

Oven

If an oven is provided in the design, it is most often installed on one level with a furnace or cooking plate. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.

• To the place where it will be installed, first mount the metal corners - they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

• oven. Next, the oven wraps the with an asbestos cord, the - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet last longer.

gaskets. Video: efficient oven technology with oven

Hot water tank

The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the furnace design, in other cases - is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the chimney-drain channel, from which water will receive the necessary heat energy. In this case, it is necessary to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap, from which the its can be taken away. The water tank should preferably be made of stainless alloy, otherwise yellow water, which is not suitable for water procedures, will very soon come from it.

hot water tank. Another option for installing this - is to set it on the same level as the hob above the furnace when it is only heated from the bottom. In this case, it is best to lay a cast iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will very quickly burn out. The capacity of the in this installation variant is not embedded in the furnace walls.

The disadvantage of such an installation is that the that has less space remains for the hob, or the has to do a deeper , and means , the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, that the is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a furnace model for your house, you need to think everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Proceeding from this and it is necessary to choose the construction of the structure with the scheme-order.

It should be noted that the laying of the furnace - is a real art, and not every experienced master always gets it "excellent".Therefore, if there are no skills in this work, it is better to invite a specialist who will help to do everything right.