Such an unusual kitchen worktop made of
tiles. If the kitchen is already decorated, the interior is available, and you are not satisfied with only the kitchen top covered with unreliable plastic, it is not difficult to make a replacement from tiles with your own hands. To do this, we remove the old countertop and cut out a new sheet of thick plywood with a new identical size.
If the kitchen wall is divided in two by a stationary hob, the task is simplified, because large enough plywood sheets are not easy to get. By the way, on top of plywood sheets can be laid on a tile adhesive sheet of DSP ( cement-particle board).With the same glue we will also perform the facing.
The preparation of the future tabletop continues with the cut of the sink hole( you can use the old, but better buy a new one, with the cut pattern included).For this purpose, it is best to use an electric jig saw, but it is also possible to do it manually( pre-drill a small hole in the outlined contour of the hole) if you have enough stock of saw blades. For a separate hob it is also necessary to prepare a suitable size for propyl.
For finishing the edge of the countertop with tiles along the edge of the plywood, we drill small holes and fasten the screws along the entire perimeter of the slats with the removal down and level with the upper plane. We carefully ground all the design that we have obtained and fasten it to the furniture body, making good the self-tapping screws. The table-top is ready for the tile, go to the next stage.
The worktop made of ceramic tiles - the best way to finish
There are several ways of facing, but one of them is quite popular in Europe, we will consider it. On the prepared and fully cut sheet of the future tabletop we shoot the construction stapler with a paint net. Along the wall at the junction with it, the table tops are smeared with silicone sealant and let it freeze.
We fasten the edges of the table top( not tight) to the cross-section of 1.5x3 cm, to the edges, with an upward movement of exactly 1.5 centimeters. Along the walls we put the same slats, but already flat. All of them will serve as beacons for us. Then we put the sawn piece into the hole prepared for washing, and we also grab it with two slats, but already from the bottom. Fill the resulting groove with a cement cushion( standard composition with the addition of 1 part of latex to 2 parts of water), and level it with a long trowel along the beacons.
When the cement mass seizes, cut it through the contour of the sink hole, unscrew the rails from the bottom and remove the previously inserted piece of table top with the cement, the edges are leveled and shpaklyuem the same solution. When the whole cushion hardens, we remove the beacons and fill the resulting grooves along the walls with the same solution. We are waiting for complete drying.
It remains the smallest thing - that we have a top made of ceramic tiles, we need to perform the facing. But before you start marking( you need to immediately delineate the surface, so that each tile lies in its place), we decide how to trim the ends. If the cut tile, then the surface marking starts from the edge, taking into account the small removal of the outer tiles( for the thickness of the end facing), and if the ceramic corners, then you should make an indent from this very edge, taking into account the width of the shaped tiles.
We begin to tile the upper plane from the outer corner, that is, completely lay out the near-by series. The following series are done in the same sequence. Be sure to adjust the width of the seam with special crosses. If near the walls can not put whole tiles, cut off the necessary fragments.
To cut the tiles for laying to the wall, we put the same( integer) on the last row of tiles, exactly at the edges, the second one is put by the third layer and is moved to the wall, we obtain an excellent ruler for the cutting line.
In the last turn we glue end tiles. Important! If you decide to tile the edge of the tabletop with cut-off tiles, then, sticking it on the end, immediately fix the painting tape( in any case, not with paint tape).This is done so that the tile does not slip away while the glue is solidifying. Shaped tiles stack much easier, it will lie tightly on the corner of the countertop, the main thing is to lubricate not only the pasted surface, but the very tile on the inside.
Tiling the table top with the last stage of the
. When all the tiles are firmly adhered to the table top, begin grouting the seams. To do this, we need an epoxy grout, which withstands any tests with moisture and household chemicals, unlike conventional grouts based on limestone filler. Thoroughly mix components that are sold most often in one box, but separately from each other.
Then we glue all the tiles along the seams with paint tape, clean the seams themselves from the frozen glue and fill them with a grout using a syringe with a special nozzle. The surface of the seams is best formed by a piece of rubber insulation of the electric cable. After 30 minutes, remove the adhesive tape together with the trowel drops that fell on it, and on this the countertop of the countertop tiles practically ended, but we'll have patience, because we still need to install a sink, and possibly a hob.
And for this we are preparing the same silicone sealant that we used to spread the seams between the wall and the table top. We plentifully let the sealant under the edges of the sink, and, having laid it on the rightful place, remove the droplets, carefully wiping the joints with a damp sponge. Now, washing the resulting table-top, we consider our mission complete.
