How to put a tile in the bathroom: step by step instruction

How to start putting a tile: choosing a method. Direct laying principle

The most successful is for rooms with a low ceiling where this method is used for rectangular tiles. Visually rectangular masonry increases the height of the walls.

Diagonal laying principle

Suitable for rooms with square proportions. Stacking allows you to hide skewed walls, but only applies to the skills of the wizard. To understand what the principle of laying in practice, you can by watching the video.

Chess stowage principle

Suitable for a variety of color and texture of the material. Allows you to perform a beautiful pattern in staggered order for rooms of a square shape.

The principle of displacement when laying

This option allows you to put a new tile with a shift from the previous one. The most suitable for premises is a "rectangle".

To create a picture, rectangular tiles with a 2: 1 aspect ratio are most suitable.

Mosaic masonry principle

This method of laying allows you to create a pattern of tiles in different sizes, textures and colors. Only professionals can create a mosaic, therefore only long training and absolute knowledge of technology will allow to make a full-fledged drawing. The photo-example shows a mosaic in its original form.

Marking and laying of walls for facing

Applying a pencil and ruler, it is necessary to mark out the future masonry on the wall. Particularly well worth noting curbs, inserts and other details. It is important that there are no gaps left in the corners and around the door, but it is undesirable to cut the tiles.

Facing tool

1. Facing tool
2. Construction level
3. Grouting for joints
4. Adhesive for tile
5. Glue for mixing glue and construction mixer
6. Cloth for removing surplus
7. Tile cutting tools
8. Plastic tie for joints

Stepwise lining of walls and floor in the bathroom. Step 1: preparatory work with walls

First of all, remove the old coating from the walls. Often, this can take a lot of time, since the old cladding can hold very tightly. But it is better to exert more effort than then to glue the permanently falling off trim.

Next, you need to wash the walls of dirt and dust and clarify the vertical construction level. If the walls are uneven, you need to level them with plaster. Drying time of the plaster: more than two weeks.

Then, for better adhesion of the tiles, the surface of the walls must be primed. This will ensure pore filling with an adhesive compound, as well as moisture resistance of the lining.

Step 2: Floor leveling

For leveling the floor, beacons and self-leveling mixtures are used. At the second variant leaves enough dearly, but it is extremely effective. However, before you need to make a layout of the floor, for example, the laser level. This will allow you to mark out an ideally equal distance for tile laying, which will prevent distortion of the pattern.

To determine the new floor level, you need to do the following:

1. Assign the highest angle in the room and draw a horizon on the wall from it.
2. Between the two walls, stretch two ropes( twine, etc.) until they intersect in the center of the room.
3. If there is no tang of the twine to the floor and the indicated distance from the high point of the floor to the wall is a couple of centimeters, this point will become the new floor level.
4. When touching the twine, it is necessary to raise the segments to the same 2 cm and fix the level.
5. Beacon mounting is done with the placement of guides, which must be level with the markings.
6. Track the beacons to touch the level of the guides.

Step 3: Preparing the

Adhesive In order to prepare the adhesive, it is necessary to take a mixture, water and a drill. With a special mixer-drill, mix the mixture at a low speed with a drill. Try not to pour the entire mixture into the pelvis immediately, as it will be difficult to mix. The composition itself should not turn out to be very liquid, so as not to spread over the wall, and not too thick, otherwise it will be difficult to distribute it with a spatula over the surface.

Step 4: cutting tiles

The first thing to do is to leave the tile in the water for an hour. Then mark the line of the cut with a special glass cutter. Put it on the edge of the table, put the same wooden bars on both sides, then press it and it will crack on the intended seam.

And it is already possible to cut it directly with a tile cutter. The incision should be made in the direction of yourself. The tile cutter has a breaking mechanism due to a special castor, which is why it is suitable for carrying out a large number of works.

Step 5: Wall cladding

1. Cladding should be done from the bottom up, and that the first row should lie perfectly flat, the rack is laid on the floor and the row is aligned on it. For the next series, vertical rails are made on the wall.
2. The second and the next rows are marked with nails, and between them stretch the thread, which will act as a regulator of the horizon to the rows.
3. Apply the adhesive with a trowel, as shown in the photo, directly onto the back surface of the tile. Then attach it to the wall and press it gently to distribute the adhesive evenly.
4. For the following tiles, glue is also applied, but between them are placed plastic crosses to regulate the same seam in 3-5 millimeters. This distance at the same time does not allow the lining and crack, and fall off when it becomes affected by heat and moisture.
5. To cut the material to the required size, use a grinder or tile cutter.

Step 6: fixing ceramic tiles to the floor

The method of laying the tile on the floor slightly differs from the wall, but there are some rules. The tile is placed from the furthest corner to the exit from the room.

1. Draw the thread of each row so that there is no displacement.
2. Apply the adhesive to the back of the tile, then attach it to the floor and tap it with a rubber hammer until it is leveled according to the stretched thread. At a low level, you need to remove the tile and add glue.
3. Check the laid out rows for horizontal level with the building level.
4. To insulate and hide the seam line, use grout.

Step 7: How to put a tile around the plumbing and communications

There are no perfectly smooth walls, because often it is necessary to beautifully and accurately seal out the sockets, thresholds, doorways and much more without harm to the tiled image and the horizontal / vertical masonry.

1. To install the tiles around the switch, you need to attach it to the attachment point and mark it with an excess pen.
2. Cut it off at the marked points and check the conformity by applying the shape to the plastic button.
3. Tiling around the pipes is done at an angle, that is, curvilinear cutting is applied. It consists in that it is necessary to take a piece of paper and put it in the place of installation, on it to bend that which is superfluous, and to cut off.
4. Paper template to attach to the tiles, often a few, mark and trim according to the specified pattern. The peculiarity of this work is that the pruning of tiles under the desired shape is made by a special disk.

1. Then all the joints are treated with grout, as in normal masonry. The work is finished.

Step 8: use fugues to fix the seams

Before leveling the seams with fugue, the tile is cleaned. The choice of a fugue should always depend on the coloring of the tile, which should be in harmony with it. It is not worth chasing cheapness, as this can lead to cracking of the joints.

Foam should be filled with a rubber spatula, and the remnants should be removed with a regular sponge.

The video shows how to start laying the tile, how to do it correctly, and what is the end of the process.

Good luck with the repair work!