The first option: the average state of the floor
The first thing before the repair work is to inspect the surface - how fit is its condition for such a coating? Are preliminary work needed to prepare the floor for laying?
The wooden floor itself, basically, always consists of three basic elements:
- coating( board, parquet, linoleum, etc.);
- substrate( chipboard, board or plywood) - the base;
- logs( wooden bars, laid on a concrete base with an approximate gap of about half a meter) - a skeleton of a wooden structure.
Depending on the condition of all elements, the scale of preparation of the substrate for tiling is determined. In principle, all three species, which we talked about before, differ precisely in the preparatory stages, since the masonry process itself has no special differences. So, consider these methods.
The wooden cover creaks, sags, but I do not want to completely change it for any reason( lack of money, time, etc.).
In such a case, the following procedure should be followed:
- The coating and the substrate are completely removed using a nailer. We need to examine the backbone of the structure, and if the lags are not rotten, and the problems were due to the poor state of the substrate, the basis can be left.
- Logs must be treated with a special protective impregnation so that they last longer.
- Further it is necessary to prevent further deflection of the base and the distance between the lags to be covered with expanded clay.
- The surface is again covered with boards or solid thick plywood with the help of long self-tapping screws. It is best to install the boards not tightly to each other, but with a small clearance for ventilation or to drill a few holes for these purposes.
- The parchment should be laid on the boards, and already on it - a strong substrate, for example, gypsum-fiber sheets with a thickness of 20 mm or cement-chipboards 10-20 mm. They are fastened with a start-up self-tapping to the lags( step 15-20 cm).
- Cracks from the walls to the base of the floor can be filled with a usual mounting foam.
- Such a surface is primed.
- Now the tiles on the wooden floor will lie right - the design no longer bends, and it will be easy. You can use traditional masonry methods.
The second option: if the floors are completely bad
If the tree is in a very bad state, the previous method is unlikely to be useful. However, replacing the screed, you can achieve a perfect result. So, what should I do?
Wooden floor tie:
- We remove the old plating.
- We produce waterproofing. For this there is a huge selection of materials, but the most simple, popular and affordable is the usual polyethylene film.
- The marking is done around the perimeter of the room.
- Beacons are installed - 10 cm from the walls, 100 cm apart. Excellent fit metal profiles, which can be fixed on concrete with dowels.
- Screed can be poured as a cement-sand mortar( cement M-400 and sand 1: 3), or pure concrete. Calculate the amount of material needed by the principle of 15 kg of mixture per 1 m square with a layer of 1 cm. If the layer is much thicker, it is better to ease the screed with claydite, filling it in the deepest areas between the beacons.
- Wait until the concrete dries out - at least 1 day.
- Surface is cleaned from strong unevenness and floating claydite.
- The scraped floor is primed and poured with a screed again from the far corner to the door, constantly aligned with the lighthouse rule.
- Waiting - three days.
- The surface is primed again, and is now primed with a self-leveling compound. After drying, absolutely perfect screed is ready. Now the tile on the wooden floor will lie down normally, no matter how it was decided to glue it and whatever design was chosen.
The third option: on a good wooden floor
If the state of the surface is excellent, there is no point in making long preparations. However, an obligatory condition in this case is the substrate from the chipboard.
What we do:
- The slots from the wall to the main cover are poured with mounting foam.
- Particleboard should be treated with protective impregnation or several times with hot oil( the process is flammable, you must be extremely cautious).
- After the surface of the sheets is insulated with a thick layer of latex, on which( still in a soft form) a paint net is installed.
- After the drying of the latex, the paint net is additionally fixed with screws.
- The surface is covered with a layer of water: liquid glass: coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 2.
- After drying the mixture, you can immediately proceed to the traditional laying of tiles, but it will be better to even more level the surface with a self-leveling mixture.
Important! For all three of these methods, cement glue is a mandatory condition, and in no case is mastic, otherwise the tiles on the wooden floor may not lie as desired.
You can familiarize yourself with the laying of tiles on a wooden base in a video.
Conclusion
In principle, there is nothing difficult in laying tiles on a wooden floor. However, if you do not take into account his condition or do not prepare a wooden base, the tile covering is unlikely to last long. Here we consider all the basic ways how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, and they differ only in the preparation of the surface, and not in the type of masonry. 