Varnish for parquet: types
The market for building materials presents a huge number of varnishes. They are divided into: chemical content;technical characteristics;properties that affect the appearance of the coating;degree of brilliance;the parameters of harmlessness to humans and the environment. The first class will be examined in detail in terms of chemical composition. They are divided into compositions: based on oil resins( urethane-alkyd and alkyd), polyurethane and water-soluble.
- Varnishes based on oil resins - alkyd or urethane-alcohols, which allow the mixture to penetrate deep into the wood, emphasizing the natural color of the array and the texture of the fibers. The advantages of the composition can be attributed to the fact that it does not have adhesive properties( that is, accidentally swept between the laths of varnish, do not glue them).To cons are considered a long time of drying out.
- Polyurethane( anhydrous) mixtures - have excellent adhesion characteristics, and also provide high resistance to chemical agents. The other pluses include: thermal and lightfastness, elasticity, not capricious to the microclimate. However, glue the boards between themselves. Often, these compounds are used for buildings with high mechanical stress.
- Water-soluble - These are dispersions with a volume of water and droplets of binder. A two-component varnish for parquet and one-component varnish is produced. They have high strength, environmental friendliness, and wear resistance. The big plus is that this parquet lacquer is odorless. Of the minuses are distinguished: capriciousness to the microclimate of the room, as well as the exactingness to the instrument( you can not use any hammers and brushes).
- acidic formulations are also single-component and two-component. The second is diluted with a hardener in a ratio of 10: 1.It can not be said that this parquet lacquer is quick-drying( the smell of the solvent disappears within 3 days), but it has other positive characteristics. They include: excellent adhesion, low sensitivity to the microclimate and humidity of the room, not capriciousness to the instrument. Of the deficiencies, a harmful odor is evolved, therefore it is necessary to wear gauze bandages during the works.
How to choose the right varnish?
When choosing a varnish, it is necessary to take into account the main technical characteristics of the composition, which are written on the package. After all, it depends on them for what building and with what load it can be used( in the house, store).For example, it is better to use a two-component acid curing parquet varnish( for example, MCH-0163) or alkyd composition( PF-231) in residential premises. The first provides sufficient hardness, water resistance. The second has lower performance characteristics, but it is easy to apply.
If the coating will be done in the office, public premises, office buildings, where the patency is much higher, then apply uralkid, which are also labeled as polyurethane varnishes. Of the Russian compositions, the AU-271 Polyur is popular. In the case when coating is made in a museum, theater, shop, concert hall, it is advisable to choose a water-based parquet varnish, as well as urethane composition. It is better to buy foreign brands, such as: Beckers, Vaughn, ICI, Kiilto, Lakufa and others.
Parquet varnish:
consumption After you have chosen a varnish for a parquet board, the question arises - what is its consumption and how to correctly apply it? In general, all this should be written on the packaging. But if you take an approximate expense, it is 1 liter per 8-10 m2( when applying one layer).However, expect that there will be several layers. When applying the composition, certain conditions of temperature and humidity in the room must be observed.
Drafts are not allowed, air exchange should be 50 l / min, humidity not more than 70%, and air temperature from +15 C °.
It is possible to apply the composition either manually or by means of rollers, brushes, or by using a spray gun. If you intend to varnish the parquet with your own hands, then you need to take into account that the first layer is applied gently with a spatula, only then apply the brush. Drying of each layer requires 2 days on average. Finally, furniture and interior items can be filled only after 2 weeks( after the final hardening).