The technology of laying ceramic tiles on the floor, the walls of the bathroom with video. Laying of tiles

If the bathroom enamel is damaged, the coating of the mixers is damaged by calcareous deposits, rust staining from the sinkno longer washed away, and the tarnished tiles in some places fell off. Well, it's time for you to renovate the bathroom. Such repairs are very expensive. Expenditures on building materials and plumbing can be reduced only at the expense of their quality, but self repair itself is quite feasible. The cost of such repairs is approximately equal to the cost of materials. Having made it yourself, you can cut costs by half. Prepare to ensure that repairs take a long time and will cause some inconvenience. Be careful and do not rush - and the result will surpass any of your expectations! And now we will study in detail the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the floor and walls of the bathroom. After watching to fix the video lesson and be able to put the tiles with your own hands in any room. See also an article on how to enamel the bath with your own hands.

Plumbing in the bathroom

First of all, remove the plumbing in the bathroom, before laying ceramic tiles on the floor and walls. If your sewer is made of cast iron, be careful - cast iron is a relatively brittle metal. Do not apply strong blows on it with a hammer. As a rule, only the vertical common riser is left from the cast iron sewage system( if it can not be replaced for subjective reasons).The connections of sewerage, made of cast iron, are usually sealed with a winding with cement. To remove this seal, you can drill it with a 2-millimeter drill. This will facilitate the dismantling of an unnecessary part of the sewage system.

Sewage and water installation is beyond the scope of this article. Therefore, we confine ourselves to one rule. You need to know exactly where the plumbing will be located. If you decide to swap the toilet and the sink, then you have to redo the water and drainage system. More specifically about the installation of water pipes can be read here.

How to bring down the old tile with your own hands

First we remove the old tile. This requires a hammer and chisel. The chisel is located at the smallest angle to the surface to be cleaned. It is necessary to protect yourself, wear protective goggles and gloves. If you have a puncher - great! It will greatly speed up the work. With an easy tapping, we determine how well the plaster is kept. In old houses, often a monolithic layer of plaster does not actually adhere to the wall. In this case, you need to delete it. The old coating is also completely removed if it is made of a lime mortar. The most difficult case is an old concrete wall in the bathroom, painted with enamel. Manufacturers of tile adhesives guarantee the quality of the masonry when coupling at least 80% of the surface of the tile with the wall, therefore, notches on the paint can not do. It must be brought down. Typically, the best result is an ordinary hammer. But you can try and punch or a special nozzle on the angle grinder. In the video examples, ceramic tiles have already been knocked down.

After you managed to knock down the old tile yourself, we move on to the next important steps. The cleaned surface to improve adhesion( adhesion) is treated with soil. If the surface absorbs it( typical for old brickwork), the primer is made several times or a special "concrete contact" primer is used( one layer is enough).When priming the surface you can use the principle "you can not spoil the porridge with oil."

Surface plastering - preparation for laying tiles

The surface on which the tiles will be laid should be as flat and vertical as possible( horizontal).This will reduce the cost of expensive tile adhesive and improve the quality of the masonry. See the article how the plastering of walls with video hands, the technology of installation of beacons and other nuances is performed. The fact is that any, even expensive, imported ceramic tile has deviations from the nominal parameters. At domestic tiles of the first grade these deviations are about a millimeter. It seems that this is a bit, but a dozen tiles can give an error in a centimeter! So, one of these parameters is the deviation from the ideal plane. Therefore, a flat surface will additionally control the quality of the masonry, making sure that the applied adhesive layer has the same thickness. In addition, with an excessively thick layer of glue, it can not be squeezed into the gap when installing another ceramic tile, but go under the previous one, pressing it. The verticality of the walls can be checked by repeatedly measuring them with a suspension. But you can apply another method. The bathroom wall is marked with vertical stripes. The extreme bands are about 10 cm from the edge. The distance between adjacent bands is selected depending on the instrument, which will be applied by hand plaster( usually a large spatula or poluter).It is better to use a rule of at least a meter in length, and mark the wall so that the distance between the adjacent three strips is 10 to 15 cm less than the length of the rule. In each strip a hole of diameter 6-8 mm is drilled through a distance of 0.5 m. Plastic plugs are inserted in them, and screws are screwed into the dowels. Consistently screwing and unscrewing screws, with the help of a rack level, we have them in one "virtual" vertical plane. The final "virtual plane" will be the surface of the plaster. It is necessary that the plaster layer is not less than 0.5 cm.

Widget from SocialMart

Guides are made based on the exposed screws. Screws are pressed flat with a rake( for example, the starting metal ceiling profile for gypsum plasterboard "Knauf").The plaster mixture is tightly clogged under the rail. If the wall difference is large and the mixture does not hold, then as a reinforcement you can use thin strips of plasterboard, attaching them together with the same mixture. A few hours after the initial hardening of the mixture, the river is removed, the resulting strip is cleaned - the guide is ready.(The second variant is shown on the side in the photo, you screw the profile of the required length to the wall, setting it up and leveling it with ceramic tiles).The video below shows an example of how to put it evenly. On sale there are ready-made guides - special T-shaped perforated beacons. For their installation on the wall a strip of plaster mixture is applied, and then the beacon is pressed into it so that the mixture is squeezed through the holes. The verticality of the track is controlled by a level. It should be ensured that there are no gaps between the level and the beacon along the entire length. More details about plaster and work with lighthouses.

When installing tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, the technology requires the use of plaster mixes on a cement basis, they are more durable. Gypsum plasters are hygroscopic and can not guarantee durable laying and require waterproofing.

The mixture is poured onto the wall using a spatula or trowel with a sharp movement of the brush. If you use a homemade solution or an inexpensive ready-mix, it is better to wet the surface on which the solution is applied with water. The applied solution is leveled by a rule that slowly rises upward along the guides and simultaneously makes a reciprocating motion perpendicular to it. If there are holes in the finished surface, they are filled with a solution and the alignment is repeated. At large roughnesses of a wall the plaster is put in two - three layers. Each layer must completely dry out and be primed. The finished surface can be sanded, if necessary, and primed.

It should be remembered that at least one angle must be straight. A bath will be installed in it. By the same technique, the floor is leveled. The only difference is that it should be waterproofed beforehand. The waterproofing must protect the entire floor and the bottom of the wall. For waterproofing, it is easiest to use a special ready mix. Its application is simple and detailed in the instructions on the package.

Technology of laying ceramic tiles

Preliminary it is necessary to make a marking of a surface with own hands. The video below shows an example of how to do this. It is desirable that the washbasin is located symmetrically with respect to the tile, the bath does not cover most of the tile line, and the curb does not pass where the mixer will be( this will not allow the mixer reflectors to be pressed tightly and evenly against the wall).Ceramic tiles are worth buying with a margin of about 10% of the area of ​​walls and floor. Part of the tile will go into waste after cutting and fighting. You can also put a pack of tiles in reserve, suddenly it will be damaged during operation - it will be replaced immediately.

If the bottom row consists of cut tiles, then start laying from the second row( the bottom row is laid after laying the floor).To do this, an even rake is placed on the perimeter of the room using the level. It will be a support for tile. Start laying each row better with a central tile. This will help reduce the error that accumulates due to the difference in the size of the ceramic tiles. A trowelled adhesive is applied with a trowel. According to the technology, the spatula is conducted at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. In density, the solution should resemble sour cream. Tiles are applied and heated with a slight tapping of the rubber kyanka. Excess glue is removed, the ends of the tile are cleaned and the operation is repeated with the next tile.

The gap between the tiles is leveled by a plastic cross. Tiles and crosses have a trapezoid shape in the section, therefore, the deeper the cross is dug, the wider will be the seam, so it is necessary to put it so that the tile does not mow. After all, the difference in the size of the tiles should be leveled, changing the width of the interlace seam. This can be done with the help of special plastic wedges. The easiest way to achieve good quality is to ensure that the top edge of the row lies on one straight line. Begin the next row only after the previous one is completed. This will make sure that the seams between the rows coincide( the upper edge of the tile row lies in the horizontal plane).In addition, it will be possible to visually control the verticality of the masonry in the corners of the walls.

If required, ceramic tiles are cut with their own hands using a tile cutter or a small "grinder" with a winning disc. See the article on how to cut the tile correctly. When working with a Bulgarian, you should always wear gloves, glasses and a respirator. Bulgarians can also trowel the tiles to the desired size, make it cutouts for plumbing hatches. If you need to make a hole, here are ways to make holes in the ceramic tile. In order to hide the chips of the glaze in the place of the cut, you can use the plastic tiled corners. The size of the corners and their color are chosen depending on the tiles.

Laying tiles on the floor is best done and arranged so that the cut tiles are under the bathroom. Here it is not necessary to use a notched trowel, it is better to apply a regular layer of glue usual. When using a notched trowel, the probability of formation of voids in the adhesive layer is great. This can lead to the fact that the floor tiles will crack during operation.

After about 24 hours, the seams between the ceramic tiles are filled with grout. It is applied with a rubber spatula. After 15-20 minutes after application, the seam is smoothed using a damp sponge. A day later, the leftover grout is removed from the tile first wet, and then with a dry rag. Find out how many grouts you need, help the calculator. Now watch the video tutorials - examples of how these specialists perform the same actions for laying tiles. The technology is the same. Now you are ready to repair the bathroom yourself.

How to put the tile in the bathroom video

Two more video clips for example, how to lay tiles in the bathroom. The principle remains the same, but the approach is slightly different.