Ceiling waterproofing: materials and applications

Most residents of apartment and private houses are thinking about the waterproofing of the ceiling too late, that is, in fact - flooding neighbors from above or leaking roof. Avoid these troubles will allow a small complex of works, which can be entered into the planned repair. Today we will discuss what materials are used for waterproofing ceilings, and how you can do it yourself, saving on hiring a construction team.

Why is it necessary?

It's easy to guess that waterproofing the ceiling is necessary in order to prevent water from entering the house from above. This can happen for various reasons - the neighbors burst the aquarium from the top, they forgot to close the tap, or just the pipes burst. For owners of private houses, waterproofing is more important than ever, because complaining in case of a leak will only have to do with its own imprudence.

In addition, waterproofing prevents the occurrence of mold and fungus due to excessive fumes in the room, for example, in the bathroom or kitchen. It protects the insulation layer, which when wet, ceases to perform its protective functions. Thus, the waterproofing not only does not allow the water to spoil the interior and decoration, but also prolongs the term of the insulating materials of the ceiling.

It is important not to forget that flooding neighbors from the top is fraught with not only damage to property, but can cause much more damage. Water can wet the wiring and cause a short circuit with the fire as a consequence. Particular attention should be paid to the waterproofing of the ceiling in the bathroom, kitchen and other rooms with a high level of humidity. Since in them all the time or very often there are evaporation, which, as is known, tend upward, the interior decoration of the ceiling is in an extremely vulnerable position and requires protection.

But here's the paradox - to waterproof the ceiling from the inside is basically wrong. Since the main threat is flooding from above, the water with its weight will press on the protective layer and can tear it away. It is much more reasonable to isolate the external surface of the ceiling, but by coincidence, this external side is the floor in the neighbor apartment. And it is unlikely that the neighbors will be delighted if you come to them with this idea and require you to remove the parquet or at least linoleum to cover the floor with mastic for the sake of the safety of your own home. So you have to be smart and select materials that would be convenient, and most importantly, effectively protect yourself from an accidental flood.

Waterproofing materials

There are a lot of waterproofing materials, but the ceiling is a very specific surface, and it's not so easy to work with it. However, resourceful masters still manage to select effective ways to protect the ceiling with a variety of materials. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Oak waterproofing

This is a whole section of waterproofing materials, the brightest representative of which is ruberoid. Oak is called any waterproofing, which must be glued or fused to the prepared surface. Usually sold in rolls, such as polyethylene film, fiberglass, polypropylene synthetic linens and other functional analogues.

However, a significant disadvantage of this type of material is precisely in their method of application to the surface. If you ever tried to glue wallpaper on the ceiling, you immediately understand what is meant. The ruberoid, even the cheapest and usual, is much heavier than wallpaper, and therefore it is even more difficult to cope with it, and not the fact that it will hold tight. And at the first qualitative flood from neighbors from above such waterproofing can successfully fall off together with a decorative covering. Such a prospect will not please many people, therefore, waterproofing for ceilings is rarely used.

Tension ceilings

This method is much more popular than gluing the ceiling with polyethylene, but it costs much more. Stretch ceilings deserve recognition not only with an attractive appearance and high aesthetics, but also the ability to reliably protect the home from the infringements of uncontrolled neighbor water. In the case of a flood, the liquid simply collects under the ceiling and can not penetrate through its canvas. If the water flows a lot, the ceiling will turn into an interesting sight, more reminiscent of the avant-garde art object, as, for example, in the image below.

But even if the canvas hangs right down to the floor, it will not miss a single drop of moisture. The liquid is then released through the holes for the luminaires, safely decanting in the container. Film structure of the panel is able to withstand up to 100 liters of water per 1 m² of area - no waterproofing can boast of such indicators.

The disadvantages of stretch ceilings, in addition to their cost, can be attributed to the fact that during installation they significantly reduce the height of the room, so they are not suitable for all apartments. If such a ceiling safely saved you from flooding from above, and you poured water from under it, the work is not finished yet - the space between the concrete ceiling and the panel should be dried. And to do it very qualitatively, otherwise there is a risk in the near future to acquire a mushroom or mold plantation, hidden from the eyes. To do this, most likely, you have to remove the entire film, dry it, and then install it in place.

But still the advantages of stretch ceilings are much greater, and therefore the installation justifies any victims. Such a coating not only reliably protects from moisture from the outside, but also creates a perfectly smooth and smooth surface - not a single whitewash and plaster this can not be achieved. Installation of a tension ceiling though also is specific, but is fast and does not leave after itself a dust and a dirt. This is an ideal solution for the above-mentioned rooms with high humidity - the film does not let out evaporation and keeps the concrete overlap dry.

Soaking waterproofing

It is much easier with an oil-insulating waterproofing than with a backing. It includes a number of liquid mixtures that are applied to the surface by a roller or brush. Mastics usually have a bitumen-rubber or polymer base, so they create a sufficiently reliable and strong waterproof film.

In order for the structure to adhere well to the ceiling and not peel off under the water pressure from above, the surface must be carefully prepared. Often, preparatory work takes much more time than drawing the defense itself. This is the drawback of these materials. The ceiling must first be cleaned of the old coating and primed several times. Primer should be chosen not any, but deep penetration - such compounds penetrate inside the concrete slab, brick or other porous material, where they safely solidify, increasing the strength and waterproofness of the overlap. Outside, the primer leaves an adhesive film, to which any coating of waterproofing adheres well.

Important point: Since organic solvents are present in almost all waterproofing mastics, all windows and doors must be opened in order to ensure good ventilation of the room. Based on this requirement, we can conclude that dealing with the treatment of the ceiling in the cold winter will not be the best idea.

Lubricating waterproofing materials include liquid rubber, which has recently appeared on the construction market. This substance, which is based on a two-component bituminous mastic. There is not a single toxic substance in it, and the drying time is almost instantaneous in comparison with the one-component compounds. However, if you do not want liquid tires to fall off the ceiling in six months, you need to choose the products of a quality proven manufacturer, most likely by paying a round sum.

Penetrating waterproofing

This method is the most common, and not only because it is the cheapest, but also due to good quality indicators. The principle of the penetrating waterproofing somewhat resembles a primer of deep penetration: the substance seeps through the pores of the concrete to the maximum possible depth, where it crystallizes and is firmly fixed. Thus, microcracks and holes in the overlap are clogged, preventing moisture from seeping in.

Important point: Often the depth of penetration of the composition into concrete depends not only on its quality and the manufacturer, but also on the temperature at which the work and the degree of surface moisture are carried out - the warmer and wetter the concrete, the deeper the penetration of the waterproofing. There are compositions that can impregnate concrete to 60-80 cm. They cost quite a lot, but fortunately, for concrete floors in apartment buildings they will not be necessary - cheap structures that penetrate only 15-20 cm are suitable.

Waterproofing of the ceiling from the inside inMost cases are popular in the domestic market with a mixture of CT "Tron-1".We propose to consider step by step how to handle it:

1. The surface of the concrete floor should be properly wetted. To do this, it is enough to wipe it with a damp cloth several times, sprinkle with water from the atomizer or walk with a wet wide brush.
2. When water impregnates concrete, it is possible to apply a penetrating compound. Do it best with a wide construction brush with synthetic bristles.
3. The movement of the brush should be done in one direction - it is not necessary to drive several times at the same place.
4. Apply a thin layer of waterproofing. When the first layer is slightly grabbed, but it does not solidify completely, you can proceed to apply the next one. Only 2-3 layers are enough. Before again plastering the ceiling, it must be moistened again - water is a means of transport for the microparticles of the composition inside the floor.
5. Each successive layer must be applied perpendicular to the previous one.

On 1 m², covered in 2 layers, it will take about 0.8 kg of "Tron-1", provided that the surface is smooth. The rough ceiling will take about 1 kg / m².

During work, pay special attention to the places of joints of walls and ceilings, as these are the most vulnerable points. In the construction of apartment buildings, often the walls and floors are joined with ordinary concrete, which eventually gives a strong shrinkage, crumbles and begins to crumble. To seep water through such a place is easier than light, and to prevent this, all corners and joints should be carefully smeared with penetrating waterproofing or even a sealant, even if you then intend to install a stretch ceiling.

Important point: Once you have waterproofed the ceiling in the house with several layers of penetrating mixture, maintain the relative humidity of the surface for 3 days. This will allow the composition to penetrate as deep as possible into the concrete.

Waterproofing wooden ceiling

If you have a wooden private house or a dacha in which heating is carried out, and you are going to use this benefit of civilization in the winter, the insulation and waterproofing of the ceiling are required. In summer, the evaporation of moisture occurs by itself, but in winter there are more fumes, and they stay longer inside, because the temperature is lower, and the windows and doors are constantly closed. In addition, if you plan to live in a wooden house in the cold season, uninsulated ceiling will give you a constant coolness and huge bills for heating. As you know, heated air actively tends upward, and if you do not create a barrier to it in the form of protective layers of the ceiling, nothing will prevent it from leaving the room, which you are trying so hard to heat.

If you insulate the ceiling with mineral wool( the most popular and inexpensive material), the evaporation from below, passing through it, will create a condensation, the insulation will be absorbed by it and will cease to retain heat. If you simply attach a waterproofing film to the ceiling, the heat will also go away, because the film, unfortunately, protects only from moisture. Thus, insulation work with the ceiling in a wooden house must be done in combination with insulation, hydro and vapor insulation. The latter serves not only as a barrier for fumes, but also as a protection against dust and small litter that can crumble through the wooden elements of the ceiling when walking on the upper floor.

The most simple and inexpensive vapor barrier is a polyethylene film, for which you can use a conventional stapler. In this case, the material should be overlapped by 15 cm and fasten the strips together with a wide adhesive tape. Steam insulation is laid on the heater, and it - over the waterproofing.

How to make a ceiling waterproofing:

1. To the wooden ceiling of the ceiling, attach a waterproofing film - a building polyethylene with a thickness of 200 microns, a polypropylene cloth or other. For fixing to wooden surfaces, use a stapler, and join the sections of material with a wide adhesive tape. Lay the waterproofing overlap by 20 cm.
2. Attach the insulation over the waterproofing foil. It can be mineral wool in rolls or plates, polystyrene or other non-friable material. By the way, if you make the waterproofing of the ceiling of the bath, then the insulation should be non-flammable and maximally impervious to high humidity. Minvata in this case loses - because soaked in moisture, completely loses its defenses. But since in dry form it perfectly keeps heat, many continue to use it, adding an additional layer of waterproofing - on both sides of the insulation.
3. On the heater, lay a vapor barrier membrane, which will not allow the condensate to penetrate inside. In the case of ceiling waterproofing, one more layer of moisture-proof film can be laid in place of the vapor barrier( or with it) in the bathroom, sauna or kitchen. The cuts of the membrane should also be lapped, attaching a stapler to the tree, and wide tape to each other.
4. On top of the vapor barrier or additional waterproofing it is necessary to nail wooden slats - a kind of crate for fixing the finishing material. Reiki not only firmly hold the ceiling finish, but also leave a ventilation gap, which is necessary for the evaporation of condensate.
   

Useful to know: In wet areas, the use of a vapor barrier is mandatory. Membranes can be different: one-sided and two-sided. If you bought one-sided, it should be laid rough side down, and smooth-up( to thermal insulation), two-sided can be fastened as you like. Double-sided vapor barrier is more expensive, but allows not to leave the ventilation gap. In the bath above the steam room, many experienced owners lay a vapor barrier made of kraft paper with a foil coating - it evaporates condensate and reflects heat back into the room.

If there is a rough floor on the top floor, it is best to lay waterproofing on it - it's easier, faster and more reliable. As for the waterproofing of the ceiling on a balcony in a wooden house, it is also better to do it from the outside, attaching a heater and vapor barrier on the back.

We hope that the above information will help you in time to take care of protecting your own home and avoid troubles with leaks and floods.